New to the Venture..quick question..

[Yammer Dan]

The TCI collects moisture where it is and sooner or later leads to failure. A lot of us pull them out dry them good by opening them up and placing in oven for a few hrs at just over 100 degrees. Seal them up good and put back on top of air cleaner box which is a lot drier location. This takes all the skack that is in the wiring harness and cutting one of the ears off the box helps.

[Flyinfool]

The oil leak looks to be at the top valve cover on the right side. I do plan to grease everything with the dielectric grease. Have seen a few mentions in other posts about the TCI so I guess I need to add that to the list and find a thread as to what/where when and why the TCI needs to be moved. ( hint for thread link)

Also, what is the tip on the oil leak ?

 

 

When you replace the valve cover gaskets get the gasket set for a, (are you sitting down?) 2nd gen. It will only make you a little slower. The 2nd gen gaskets are a little easier to install.

 

There are different ideas on what to do with the TCI. The one common thing is to not leave it where it is, and replace the diodes. If you wait for one of the diodes to die of old age the TCI is now only good for a boat anchor for a very small boat.

Many people put the TCI on top of the airbox. I looked at that and decided it would always be in the way. So I put mine in the left faring. Being in the faring still keeps it dry and I have no reason to go in there for any normal maintenance, so it is not in the way.

[dingy]

Thanks for the info. I am going to remove it so I can do the fork seals/springs and a few other items/wiring under there all at the same time. It looked pretty intense, but I appreciate the step by step. That will help.

 

Funny about the loctite comment since on my KLR650, Loctite is a common addition...in fact KLR stands for Keep Loctite Ready !

 

 

When you do your fork seals, get OEM seals,Genuine Yamaha. Not cheap but worth it. Many here have expressed problems with aftermarket seals.

 

I have tried two different 3rd party seals & both leak some. Last set was ALL-Balls with three wiper lips & it leaked.

 

I have a set of OEM's going in this winter. Also doing upper & lower fork bushings to be sure.

 

Gary

[KIC]

The bike came with a new set of Pyramid seals and dust covers. Supposedly they are real rubber seals not synthetic. Hate to spend $40.00 bucks when I have these, but I don't want to do the job twice either. I have heard that OEM seals are as much of a hit and miss as after market..??

[KIC]

When you replace the valve cover gaskets get the gasket set for a, (are you sitting down?) 2nd gen. It will only make you a little slower. The 2nd gen gaskets are a little easier to install.

 

2nd Gen parts on my 1st Gen Princess ???? That would take a bottle of Jack Daniels and a stun gun. But I'll consider it. Guess a 1st Gen with a 2nd Gen part on it is still better, faster and more adorable than a 2nd Gen.

[Yammer Dan]

If you have to replace the gaskets the 2nd Gen ones are easier to install. They had to lean something after almost doing it perfect!!

[Flyinfool]

At least they are well hidden so that no one will know they are there unless you tell them...

[GaryZ]

2nd Gen parts on my 1st Gen Princess ???? That would take a bottle of Jack Daniels and a stun gun. But I'll consider it. Guess a 1st Gen with a 2nd Gen part on it is still better, faster and more adorable than a 2nd Gen.

 

Before you go to all the work changing the valve cover gaskets, try adding a flat washer under the cap nuts. This places a little more force on the existing gasket and could seal the leak.

[KIC]

I was given that idea in a PM a little while ago..thanks...sounds like the direction I will go in...hopefully that will work so I don't have to contaminate my bike with 2nd Genner parts.

[BIG TOM]

I was given that idea in a PM a little while ago..thanks...sounds like the direction I will go in...hopefully that will work so I don't have to contaminate my bike with 2nd Genner parts.

 

 

IF YOU OWNED A SECOND GEN, YOU WOULD SPEND YOUR TIME RIDING IT INSTEAD OF FIXING IT AND LOOKING FOR PARTS.....

[Rocket]

IF YOU OWNED A SECOND GEN, YOU WOULD SPEND YOUR TIME RIDING IT INSTEAD OF FIXING IT AND LOOKING FOR PARTS.....

 

More & more 2nd gens are getting walkers installed (trike kits).:mo money:

But they still need to wake up sometime & not stay in a groggy daze all the time.

[Yammer Dan]

Riding in the SNOW Tom??:whistling:

[BIG TOM]

Riding in the SNOW Tom??:whistling:

 

 

46 and sunny...working in "MY GARAGE" today...

[BIG TOM]

More & more 2nd gens are getting walkers installed (trike kits).:mo money:

But they still need to wake up sometime & not stay in a groggy daze all the time.

 

 

Maybe so, but it still beats lying on your back working on a first gen........

[twigg]

Removal of speedo is easy but there are things to watch out for.

 

Remove the screen, headlight and indicators. Then you can get to the screws that hold the instrument cover ... lose it.

 

Disconnect the speedo cable and you can raise the instruments high enough to remove the wiring harness. Then the instruments lift out.

 

You need to get the speedo out of the housing and it comes out from the front. Remove the screws holding the two halves together, and the temp gauge wiring from the back. The two halves will then split once the Computer Monitor has been removed AND the dimmer knob from the front.

 

The dimmer knob is held on the shaft by a screw!!! Undoing that screw is way easier than trying to pull the knob off without undoing it (don't ask me how I know).

 

Once out you can clean off all the old crap with electrical contact cleaner (tip ... cover the dial faces with seran wrap first). Blow out the dirty residue and use a light oil to lubricate everything that moves behind the dial. Keep away from the ODO wheels.

 

That's about it. It is possible to get a little grease into the cable entry bearing, but oiling it seems to work.

 

Put it all back together. When I did mine, the horrible whining disappeared, the needle is rock steady and accuracy is within 1%.

 

OIL:

 

I use Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil. That's just me.

 

I use it because it is almost exactly the same as the expensive stuff with a picture of a motorcycle on it. The point is the way they are made. Regular multigrades are made by using a base oil and adding viscosity enhancers ... long chain molecules that work just fine in car engines, and rapidly get smashed to bits in a motorcycle gearbox.

 

Diesel multigrades are subjected to much higher pressures than gas engines produce, so they are made by blending base oils of different weights .... no enhancers. As an added bonus they have no friction modifiers either, and they are cheap.

 

What's not to love?

 

Anyway ... others will differ. It's their bike. I use what I use and I post this just to tell you why

[BIG TOM]

Couple of rough spots on Tupperware.

 

Got a couple of potential issues:

 

1) starter button sticks when started. Just gotta pull it back out. Maybe just a cleaning would fix it.

 

2) Appears to have an oil leak on the top left front cylinder cap.

 

3) front fork seals leaking.

 

4) Cruise control not working.

 

5) the steering is VERY tight. when turned right and left. while riding it I made a u-turn and it was a little scary trying to just straighten up. When it is on the center stand you can feel the tightness when rotating back and forth. I know that the steering head bearings are an issue but I do not know how they feel if bad. are they lose? Are they tight ? Are they hard to change other than pulling the front forks ?

 

6) No service records.

 

7) Probably need valves adjusted since no records, although I didn't hear any knocking

 

 

Oh Yea... it shows a flashing red light that he said was the battery which also showed up n the display. he said it was a new after

market battery but didn't have the "probe" as the original battery had ... Does that make any sense ?

 

 

 

[KIC]

I am telling your wife that you are not behaving yourself while she is gone !!

[KIC]

1) starter button sticks when started. Just gotta pull it back out. Maybe just a cleaning would fix it. FIXED - ELECTRICAL CLEANER

 

2) Appears to have an oil leak on the top left front cylinder cap. Add washers to shoulder bolts

 

3) front fork seals leaking. Replace front seals

 

4) Cruise control not working. EVERYTHING (ALL LIGHTS) SEEMS TO WORK...MIGHT BE RELATED TO THE SPEEDO NEEDING LUBE

 

5) the steering is VERY tight. when turned right and left. while riding it I made a u-turn and it was a little scary trying to just straighten up. When it is on the center stand you can feel the tightness when rotating back and forth. I know that the steering head bearings are an issue but I do not know how they feel if bad. are they lose? Are they tight ? Are they hard to change other than pulling the front forks ? SEEMS TO HAVE LOOSENED UP FROM RIDING IT WILL LUBE WHEN FORK SEALS ARE DONE

 

6) No service records. YEP...NONE

 

7) Probably need valves adjusted since no records, although I didn't hear any knocking NO KNOCKING, NO SMOKE BLOWING, EASY START ..NO ISSUE AT THIS TIME.

 

 

Oh Yea... it shows a flashing red light that he said was the battery which also showed up n the display. he said it was a new after

market battery but didn't have the "probe" as the original battery had ... Does that make any sense ? WILL COMPLETE PROBE CIRCUIT FIX AS SHOWN IN THREAD.

 

 

STILL A FASTER, BETTER LOOKING, SMOOTHER, HEAD TUNING, 1ST GENNER....

 

Anything else ?

 

 

[dingy]

1)

 

5) the steering is VERY tight. when turned right and left. while riding it I made a u-turn and it was a little scary trying to just straighten up. When it is on the center stand you can feel the tightness when rotating back and forth. I know that the steering head bearings are an issue but I do not know how they feel if bad. are they lose? Are they tight ? Are they hard to change other than pulling the front forks ? SEEMS TO HAVE LOOSENED UP FROM RIDING IT WILL LUBE WHEN FORK SEALS ARE DONE

 

 

Anything else ?

 

 

This would help when you do steering bearings, it is a duplicate of the tool called for in the service manual that Yamaha thinks is worth $70 or more.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3582&title=steering-head-bearing-ring-nut-wrench&cat=33

 

Also known as a shameless plug to help my sales. Marketing has been on my butt.

 

 

Gary

[KIC]

This would help when you do steering bearings, it is a duplicate of the tool called for in the service manual that Yamaha thinks is worth $70 or more.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3582&title=steering-head-bearing-ring-nut-wrench&cat=33

 

Also known as a shameless plug to help my sales. Marketing has been on my butt.

 

 

Gary

 

Thanks..looks good..just ordered it. Now get out of bed and ship the thing to me ..

[Rocket]

Maybe so, but it still beats lying on your back working on a first gen........

 

Once you get past the years of neglect, there is not much to be done, aside from oil changes & tire changes.

[BIG TOM]

I am telling your wife that you are not behaving yourself while she is gone !!

 

 

 

 

My wife is home....Someday we'll have to introduce you to the "BOSS".. Better yet, ride that antique down to MD in June and meet him yourself.........Don't forget you have to buy the ice cream "Newbie"....Plan for around 300 banana splits.......

[BIG TOM]

Once you get past the years of neglect, there is not much to be done, aside from oil changes & tire changes.

 

 

 

and collecting spare parts...............

[Yammer Dan]

I never get over 4k out of those rear tires!! Can't understand that....

[steamer]

My wife is home....Someday we'll have to introduce you to the "BOSS".. Better yet, ride that antique down to MD in June and meet him yourself.........Don't forget you have to buy the ice cream "Newbie"....Plan for around 300 banana splits.......

 

You need to spell things out to the newbee. MD stands for Maintenance day. Or Mad Dash to Oberlin OH.