steamer Posted March 2, 2012 #277 Posted March 2, 2012 OMG, he now owns two plastic fantastic's....His head will be so big he won't be able to find a helmet to fit it. Nice bikes by the way:thumbsup2:
KIC Posted March 2, 2012 Author #278 Posted March 2, 2012 OMG, he now owns two plastic fantastic's....His head will be so big he won't be able to find a helmet to fit it. Hey , but I will still allow you to be my friend and post in my threads Nice bikes by the way:thumbsup2: Thanks. Got a surprise today when my 23 year old crotch rocket loving son said he wanted to ride the blonde... he liked all the lights, thought it looked cool and he would ride it as long as he could put "louder...cooler pipes on it.... now to find that thread about pipes.....
KIC Posted March 11, 2012 Author #279 Posted March 11, 2012 So I have been wondering what these clip type things are on each side of my fairing ? And there are male ends of "snaps" mounted directly under them .
Keemez Posted March 11, 2012 #280 Posted March 11, 2012 So I have been wondering what these clip type things are on each side of my fairing ? And there are male ends of "snaps" mounted directly under them . Those are where the little storage pouch/bags mount. One on each side of the fairing and one mounted to the right rear of trunk (underneath passenger "armrest"). I found that they get in the way of my knees and generally annoy me, so I removed mine (but the hardware is still mounted to the fairing).
KIC Posted March 19, 2012 Author #282 Posted March 19, 2012 Well, had an interesting “bike week”. First I break off a shoulder bolt on the valve cover on the brunette. Thought the bike was done. With the help of, and the advice from this forum, I was able to have it fixed and riding within 24 hours, and only 4 hours worth of work. Saturday, I finally had a chance to look at the blonde 87 that I picked up several weeks ago. This 87 was left in an airplane hanger for 2 years….with gas in it…The carbs were clogged. Wouldn’t start. Following YammerDan’s advice, I used the fuel pump to drain the old smelly varnished gas, then hooked a hose and small funnel to the fuel pump and ran clean gas through the carbs, draining them all over the floor. ( OK..YammerDan didn’t say to pump them all over the floor) I then made a50-50 mixture of SeaFoam and gas mixture. And fed it into the carbs until it started coming out of the drains. Closed up the drains and let it set for 24 hours. Sunday afternoon I put some fresh gas/ SeaFoam mixture in the tank and hooked up all the lines. Full choke, hit the starter… it fired but wouldn’t stay running past 1-2 seconds. Kept at it and finally got it to idle but could not give it any throttle. After filling the garage with a ton of smelly white smoke, it slowly ran better and better…could start cutting back on the choke and eventually could give it throttle. Had some back fire and it is slow to respond from high RPMs when given throttle. The main issue right now is there is no clutch. The lever is flat and there is no fluid in the reservoir. I noticed that the left screw is totally “screwed”. I will have to drill and easy out this puppy. I did notice a couple of drops under the left side that looked/smelled like clutch/brake fluid. Hence the empty reservoir. Guess I will have to fix that leak too. Just good to leave the bikes in a forward moving condition. I will be on travel for a month so it all will have to wait.
cabreco Posted March 19, 2012 #283 Posted March 19, 2012 The main issue right now is there is no clutch. The lever is flat and there is no fluid in the reservoir. I noticed that the left screw is totally “screwed”. I will have to drill and easy out this puppy. I did notice a couple of drops under the left side that looked/smelled like clutch/brake fluid. Hence the empty reservoir. Guess I will have to fix that leak too. Bill, I had both stripped screws on the reservoir & a leaking slave cylinder. The reservoir screw was simple enough with a screw extractor. Before you go hit it with some deep creep so it soaks. Dingy has great replacement stainless hex screws. Rebuilding the slave is a joke...removing it from the bike it a PITA. (there's a tech write up in the 1st gen library. The key is the drop & twist & make sure you have long hex sockets. Safe trip buddy! All things considered it didn't take too long to fix the above.
KIC Posted March 19, 2012 Author #284 Posted March 19, 2012 Here's a few pictures of my new 87. Needs a little TLC in a few areas, but it is all doable. Especially now that it is running. The last photo shows some extra parts including the broken fairing piece.
KIC Posted March 19, 2012 Author #285 Posted March 19, 2012 (edited) Bill, Rebuilding the slave is a joke...removing it from the bike it a PITA. (there's a tech write up in the 1st gen library. The key is the drop & twist & make sure you have long hex sockets. Safe trip buddy! All things considered it didn't take too long to fix the above. Thanks for he write up and documentation. Printed it out and put it in my 3-ring binder for when I get back. That will be the next thing I do ( besides the stripped screw) Edited March 21, 2012 by KIC
KIC Posted March 26, 2012 Author #286 Posted March 26, 2012 (edited) OK..Latest "Quick Question(s)". Been working on the 87. It had sat for 2 years with gas. Cleaned the carbs with a heavy Seafoam/Gas 50/50 mixture fed straight into carbs from fuel pump. Let them sit 24 hours then did a little flushing and new gas with some Seafoam added. Finally got it to start. Have ran it, let it idle, revved the RPMS enough and to the point that the wifey came out to say "enough". I was able to ride it around the block Saturday, although I found out it didn't have rear brakes..another story, a different set of questions. Back to the carbs: SYMPTOMS: It runs better after being warmed up. But it still backfires, and the weirdest part is the throttle creeps up the RPMs. Saturday while letting it idle, I ran into the house to grab something and heard the sucker "screamin" ..ran out to find it at 8000 RPMs. When idleing, the throttle tends to "bounce" a little without being touched. Sometimes you have to hold it back to keep the idle. The engine's return from being revved is slow. Still has some backfire. Seems to idle the best...when it isn't creeping up. So today I drained the bowls and flushed from the drain tube with carb cleaner. Then decided to spray some from the top. That is when I found the air cleaner was totally loose. None of the clamps were tightened. It just popped off in my hand. I believe I have read here that there are some issues with the air cleaner having to be perfect, no mods to it. Would the clamps not being tight affect the running of the engine ? I also found one of the slides sticking so I cleaned that with cleaner and it seems better. ( Actually cleaned them all.) Found the previous owner had not used a clamp on the gas line so that was fixed and one of the top hoses ( breather hose, overflow hose ?) from the top of the rear right carb was disconnected. Where do those top carb hoses connect to, or are they just venting out under the gas tank ? I also found a disconnect hose from the crank case breather that has a clamp on it, but was disconnected. (picture below. The set up on the breather is different than what is on my 89. So, Where does that breather line go ? Should there be more to the crank case breather than it has ? OK...think I answered my own question. I looked in the trunk as the previous owner did put a few parts in there. Found the breather hose. Then looked at the bottom of the air cleaner and saw a 2nd "nipple' that looks like the mysterious hose would go to. Looks to be a PITA to connect all the hoses and tighten/connect the 4 carb intake boots. Any tips as to hooking that all back up ? It looks like the PO had trouble with the boots pushing into the air box and he glued them to the box. New question: IF..that little breather hose (?) is not connected to the airbox, should the "nipple" be plugged off ? My 89 has its own air breather set up on it and I am wondering if it is blocked off or not..will have to check.. Why is there the big hose and the little hose going to basically the same place ? Edited March 26, 2012 by KIC
Venturous Randy Posted March 26, 2012 #287 Posted March 26, 2012 The hose in the second picture should connect to a port on the airbox that is directly in front of the left front carb. It appears that the hose that goes to the port on the Twinkie, as we call it, is gone and goes to the airbox between the rear carbs. As far as the box boots being loose, I doubt that it would make a lot of difference, but with the other hoses off, it might. As far as the revving, you need to check around the carbs for air leaks. RandyA
Venturous Randy Posted March 26, 2012 #288 Posted March 26, 2012 Ok, you added more stuff. The last picture is the port the 2nd picture hose goes. Most people put the Z shaped hose on the twinkie and run it up between the two rear carbs and then pull it up on the airbox. As for why Yamaha did the hoses the way they did, you would have to ask their engineers. But, when you do get it right, you will be amazed as to how much power Yamaha got out of this engine. RandyA
twigg Posted March 26, 2012 #289 Posted March 26, 2012 The "back-firing" is probably because it is running lean, and that isn't helping you with the idle control either. If it has been sitting a length of time, the chances are that Seafoam just isn't sufficient to clean the pilot jets which are tiny, and block easily. If one or more is partially blocked, most of those symptoms are explained. Once you have the idle circuits correct, it is highly likely that the runaway idle will be solved too. To fully refurbish 4 Jet Blocks is about $115 in parts, but it's also the best $115 you will ever spend. If the rubber plugs are serviceable (soft and sealing), that will save you $40. Equally, the main jets should be okay but you might want to check the needle tubes. ANY ovaling in the hole is wear and they will cause problems. (That's extra) You will chase this for months unless the idle circuits are close to perfect ... You can't do anything else sensible to the carbs if this is wrong. Trust me on this As for the loose boots .... They simply make it all just a bit worse ... Too much air in a motor with a lean running issue ... Well you get the drift. The pipes on top of the carbs are breathers and fed a vapour trap ... They can vent to air. To solve the breather hose issue I fixed mine to the airbox with a clamp, then I use a pair of hose pliers to grab the lower end and push it onto the lower fitting.
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2012 #290 Posted March 26, 2012 Just a couple comments to add. As for the loose boots .... They simply make it all just a bit worse ... Too much air in a motor with a lean running issue ... Well you get the drift. Yep on that. Use WD-40 to spray around where the carbs seat in the boots. Any change in idle will indicate a leak at the point. The pipes on top of the carbs are breathers and fed a vapour trap ... They can vent to air. I have to recommend the over flow hoses be attached to the vent nipples and run down the rear of the engine to drain under the bike as designed. This is from my experience with the '84 after a 9 year storage. I had major carb headaches and much of it was caused by the floats deteriorating. They had soaked up gas and where impossible to adjust. I'd have them out of the carbs for a few days and they would start to dry out. I would put them back in and all would be fine for a couple days. When they woud start to saturate again the fuel level would rise, raising the idle to extremes and at the same time start pumping gas out of the over flows. Bad enough, but if those hoses are not attached you are pouring gas over the top of a hot engine. A stuck float can cause the same high idle also. To solve the breather hose issue I fixed mine to the airbox with a clamp, then I use a pair of hose pliers to grab the lower end and push it onto the lower fitting.
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2012 #291 Posted March 26, 2012 This is kind of poor copy but this was a recommended mod by Yamaha to the air box hoses. The large breather hose was cut and spliced with a T just above the Twinkie. The smaller drain line from the left front corner, instead of running forward and down the left downtube to drain under the bike was then cut shorter and spliced into the T on the large hose. Instead of the smaller line draining the excess oil in the air box to the ground it was drained back to the breather system to be burned off.
twigg Posted March 26, 2012 #292 Posted March 26, 2012 good points Mike, Mine doesn't have the long vent tubes because it's a California model, and those carb breathers connected to the cannister. The regular bikes have them, and nothing to stop me fitting one, I guess. I guess what I meant was that venting to air won't affect the running. Well, unless you go up in flames
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2012 #293 Posted March 26, 2012 good points Mike, I guess what I meant was that venting to air won't affect the running. Well, unless you go up in flames Twigg, ya know the bikes run faster when the flames start up.
dingy Posted March 26, 2012 #294 Posted March 26, 2012 This is kind of poor copy but this was a recommended mod by Yamaha to the air box hoses. I agree with you about the 'kind of poor copy' Try the one attached below. Gary
KIC Posted March 26, 2012 Author #295 Posted March 26, 2012 The 87 has that mod which is where the one smaller hose I found connects to. My 89 has the piece on it, but the hose looks like it is reversed and the PO put a small filter on that hose. The hose does look like it is crimped or pinched since it is pushed over to the side. If this isn't breathing correctly , will it affect the running of the 89 ? I also need to check the air box of the 89 and make sure it has the 2 nipples blocked off. Any benefit to having this separate breather ?
dingy Posted March 26, 2012 #296 Posted March 26, 2012 The 87 has that mod which is where the one smaller hose I found connects to. My 89 has the piece on it, but the hose looks like it is reversed and the PO put a small filter on that hose. The hose does look like it is crimped or pinched since it is pushed over to the side. If this isn't breathing correctly , will it affect the running of the 89 ? I also need to check the air box of the 89 and make sure it has the 2 nipples blocked off. Any benefit to having this separate breather ? I have learned since I put one of these breathers on that it is not the best thing for motor performance. The slight vacuum applied by the standard hookup to the air box helps seal the rings into the bores and gives a slight increase in power. Mine cartridge filter is coming off. Gary
KIC Posted March 27, 2012 Author #297 Posted March 27, 2012 I have learned since I put one of these breathers on that it is not the best thing for motor performance. The slight vacuum applied by the standard hookup to the air box helps seal the rings into the bores and gives a slight increase in power. Mine cartridge filter is coming off. Gary Sounds like I'll do the same to my 89. I took the top of the air filter box off the 89 today and after putting it back on, the bike seems to run smoother...wonder if there was a leak or something. I don't think it was my imagination.
KIC Posted April 22, 2012 Author #298 Posted April 22, 2012 Well I removed the after market oil breather and returned the 89 to original venting with the t-fitting modification. I really believe it is running smoother and with a little more power. I found the cap on the bottom of the box was leaking big time. Also the breather line was kinked in order to allow for the after market vent breather to be attached. I also re-installed the original set up on the 87 today, but it still runs like crap. So I took one of the carb sides off and found the diaphragm filled with holes and tears around the edges. That could definitely cause the running issues I have. Going to check the other 3 BUT.... Anybody know what the size or number of the special security screw on the side of each carburetor is ? I bought a set of tips that were supposed to include the size I needed, but none seem to be the correct ones. I will have to fight getting those PITA's off and replace with regular screws.
Yammer Dan Posted April 22, 2012 #299 Posted April 22, 2012 Small set of vice grips. Get them out and toss them. You can knock that center tit out with a screwdriver. I got a bit somewhere that fits them. From Harbor Freight.
KIC Posted April 22, 2012 Author #300 Posted April 22, 2012 Dan, (Or anybody ) where is the best place ( cheapest) to get a set of carb diaphragms for my 87 ?
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