Squeeze Posted April 22, 2012 #301 Posted April 22, 2012 I use a hollow TX-25 on the Security Bolt. It's no wonder that you feel some extra Power when the Hose is kinked to a point where the Case Breather is tight. This creates Pressure inside the Casing and lead to more Pump Losses, costing Power.
Yammer Dan Posted April 22, 2012 #302 Posted April 22, 2012 Was a set of Diaphragms somewhere on E-Bay for decent price. Just got diaphragms. Had to put them on your slides. Maybe someone has addy to them. I'll look but don't think I have it.
dingy Posted April 23, 2012 #303 Posted April 23, 2012 Dan, (Or anybody ) where is the best place ( cheapest) to get a set of carb diaphragms for my 87 ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-CARB-SLIDE-DIAPHRAGM-4PCS-YAMAHA-VMX12-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYAL-VMAX-/280865187934?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4164dea85e Gary
Yammer Dan Posted April 23, 2012 #304 Posted April 23, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-CARB-SLIDE-DIAPHRAGM-4PCS-YAMAHA-VMX12-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYAL-VMAX-/280865187934?hash=item4164dea85e&item=280865187934&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr I think these are them. Looks like gary beat me.
KIC Posted April 23, 2012 Author #305 Posted April 23, 2012 Thank you . I hope I'm not bidding against somebody on here. How much did you pay this guy for yours ?
dingy Posted April 23, 2012 #306 Posted April 23, 2012 Thank you . I hope I'm not bidding against somebody on here. How much did you pay this guy for yours ? This guy never does these with a buy it now, always an auction. I was only bidder on mine, so whatever opening bid was. I farmed out putting these on sliders to Earl. That's only the 2nd thing that anyone has done on my bike except for me, not counting tire mounts though. Other was machine work on block. 3rd will be front brake brackets when I get them. Gary
Yammer Dan Posted April 23, 2012 #307 Posted April 23, 2012 This guy never does these with a buy it now, always an auction. I was only bidder on mine, so whatever opening bid was. I farmed out putting these on sliders to Earl. That's only the 2nd thing that anyone has done on my bike except for me, not counting tire mounts though. Other was machine work on block. 3rd will be front brake brackets when I get them. Gary Not a big job. Can't remember but think it was starting price.
KIC Posted June 30, 2012 Author #308 Posted June 30, 2012 I finally have some time to put the new diaphragms on the 87. The diaphragm installation and the new spacer on the needle went fast, just want to know if I should: 1) Use any lock tight on the outside housing screws on the cap? 2) Use any sealer around the metal cap that goes over the diaphragm ? Seems like the diaphragm is it's own seal(er) but though I would ask before I put it all back together.
Prairiehammer Posted June 30, 2012 #309 Posted June 30, 2012 I finally have some time to put the new diaphragms on the 87. The diaphragm installation and the new spacer on the needle went fast, just want to know if I should: 1) Use any lock tight on the outside housing screws on the cap? NO! 2) Use any sealer around the metal cap that goes over the diaphragm ? NO Seems like the diaphragm is it's own seal(er) but though I would ask before I put it all back together. See above comments.
KIC Posted June 30, 2012 Author #310 Posted June 30, 2012 Thank you sir ! All done now. Just need to get the battery back in and see how she runs.
KIC Posted July 11, 2012 Author #311 Posted July 11, 2012 (edited) Okay my guru friends… I’m working on the 87. Just put in the new diaphragms over the weekend and cleaned the carbs in that area. Already did the super duper SeaFoam flush. The Bike still runs like crap. Just put in new plugs today and checked the wires and caps for resistance. That is documented below. QUESTION: I also found the vacuum looking hose hanging from the front left ( not the one that goes from the carb base up) and I can’t figure where this hose goes and why it is disconnected. ( picture below) I followed the his e up with my hand and it feels like it connects to some type of nipple at the bottom of the upper left fairing. Any ideas ?? So, after checking the plug wires for resistance, I did find one problem with one plug wire. The stats are these: LF – 23.4 LR – 35.5 RF- 23.2 RR – 23.1 So having the high resistance in the left rear, I pulled the cap and got a reading of 8.9. The right rear cap was 9.0. The left rear wire without the cap was 26.9 and the right rear with out the cap was 14.2. So, if I remember correctly, all the readings except the left rear wire are good. QUESTION: So how would a wire reading of 26.9 affect the running of the bike ? QUESTION: Also, I tried to remove the cap on the Idle Mixture screws. I drilled a small hole, screwed a screw into it and tried to "pop" it off. They didn't pop off. Should I drill the whole thing out or will it pop out some how ? Edited July 11, 2012 by KIC
dingy Posted July 11, 2012 #312 Posted July 11, 2012 Might be the hose to the vacuum sensor, should hook to #2 carb via a reducer nipple & another hose. Gary
KIC Posted July 11, 2012 Author #314 Posted July 11, 2012 Might be the hose to the vacuum sensor, should hook to #2 carb via a reducer nipple & another hose. Gary There already is a hose from the #2 carb going up in the direction of where it should go. This hose appears to be a different hose. The plugs will pop out but not easy. Okay, thanks.. I'll give it a little more Ummph on the pop out attempt
Yammer Dan Posted July 11, 2012 #315 Posted July 11, 2012 Are these orginal wires? Could make a lot of difference when under load. I get lost on the electrical stuff. Just grab the plug wire..if your boots stay on it might need replaced. At least thats my method. I do have a spark checker that you can increase distance it will arc that has helped me at times. Again I just go by what I feel on this. I'm sure there will be a lot of help."Brown Sugar" don't seem to be suffering much from putting up with my methods. Lace up your boots and get busy.....
Yammer Dan Posted July 11, 2012 #316 Posted July 11, 2012 Might be the hose to the vacuum sensor, should hook to #2 carb via a reducer nipple & another hose. Gary Fits into a tee about where it is hanging. Check you other bike?? It does look like sensor hose which could affect way it runs. Slower revs?? Right Dingy??
dingy Posted July 11, 2012 #317 Posted July 11, 2012 It appears you have the side cover off, so you may be able to see where it is going. I can't remember another vacuum hose in that area, other than the vacuum sensor. The vacuum sensor is attached to the rear of the coil rack, there is a 3 wire plug going into it from the bottom and a hose. Gary
Flyinfool Posted July 11, 2012 #318 Posted July 11, 2012 do you maybe have a cali bike and that is one of the hoses for the evap system? maybe partly removed by PO?
Yammer Dan Posted July 12, 2012 #319 Posted July 12, 2012 WELL? We are waiting... Plug didn't shock ya that hard did it??:whistling:
KIC Posted July 12, 2012 Author #320 Posted July 12, 2012 It appears you have the side cover off, so you may be able to see where it is going. I can't remember another vacuum hose in that area, other than the vacuum sensor. The vacuum sensor is attached to the rear of the coil rack, there is a 3 wire plug going into it from the bottom and a hose. Gary I will have to disassemble more of the bike/fairing area to be able to see more in that area. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the cruise control ? Isn't there some vacuum type lines that run across the front of the fairing ? do you maybe have a cali bike and that is one of the hoses for the evap system? maybe partly removed by PO? I don't think this one is a Cali bike. I know there is a way to tell from the VIN or Model number, but will have to research that to find out how. I don't see that long black breather thing up above the front of the engine. WELL? We are waiting... Plug didn't shock ya that hard did it??:whistling: No shock.. to cowardly Symptoms are hard to start cold. Use all choke. Runs like crap and is hard to accelerate the engine speed without it crapping out. once it warms up, i can use less choke but never none. Very slow to accelerate RPMs with throttle, choke will accelerate RPMs some. One interesting thing I noticed: When cranking over, or when idling on it's own, the throttle bounces back and forth. Almost looks like a ghost is giving it a little gas. It is also in rhythm with the engine idle sound. I have ridden it around the block a couple of times but it runs so bad, doesn't accelerate rapidly, although it seems to try over a distance, or decelerate well at all. Also sounds like a small back fire at times from a rear cylinder. I am going to try cleaning a few more of the jets etc. I want to do anything but pull the rack. Oh yea..the new plugs didn't make any difference. Neither did the new diaphragms.
Yammer Dan Posted July 12, 2012 #321 Posted July 12, 2012 I would do a real strong soak again. Might save pulling them which I hate. I mix in a can for real strong soak about 3/4 Sea-Foam 1/4 gas. Or use the BerryMans Chem Tech at wally world for about 1/2 the cost. I don't like to use a lot of it because it is a little harsher but in some cases might clean what Sea-Foam won't.
KIC Posted July 12, 2012 Author #322 Posted July 12, 2012 I would do a real strong soak again. Might save pulling them which I hate. I mix in a can for real strong soak about 3/4 Sea-Foam 1/4 gas. Or use the BerryMans Chem Tech at wally world for about 1/2 the cost. I don't like to use a lot of it because it is a little harsher but in some cases might clean what Sea-Foam won't. Guess it's worth trying again. What I did last time was to disconnect the gas line, put my own onto the fuel pump and pumped in a very rich SeaFoam mixture into the carbs. Let them sit for 2 days, started it up and stunk up the garage and neighborhood for that matter. Did it again. Then ran a cleaner gas mixture through it. I just switched to pure gas and let her idle for 30 minutes revving the RPM's up every once in a while. Then I went around the block several times. I'll play with it this weekend, try to clean some more jets etc then soak it again.
AzBones Posted July 12, 2012 #323 Posted July 12, 2012 If your interested in a 2nd gen, there is a 99 listed in the Tucson craigslist for $4800.00 Nov 13th posting. Maybe he will deal. Actually, I picked up that bike... and we settled at $4300. So far, had to pull apart the fairing and re-grease the connections and most recently, my rear shock went out. Not bad considering I've already put over 5000 miles on it since January.
Trader Posted July 12, 2012 #324 Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) Edited to completely rewrite!!!! Hose from #2 carb to vacuum sensor: When it is disconnected from the air box the bike idles wonderfully. When I hook it up the idle jumps to 3200 rpm. I have checked for air leaks around the carbs and that is not an issue. so what is the problem? Why the jump in idle rpm? I ended up just dialing back the idle with the hose connected to vacuum sensor attached. It seemed reasonable! KIC.....is there any chance that hose is the one that goes from the airbox (front left) and "t"'s into the other airbox hose? The one that goes into the tube between the carbs on the "box" on top of the crankcase? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=65439&d=1332797233 see illustration #3 Edited July 12, 2012 by Trader
Yammer Dan Posted July 12, 2012 #325 Posted July 12, 2012 Vacuum leak if you are lucky. Other things dirt somewhere in fuel system,electrical??
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