twigg Posted January 2, 2012 #176 Posted January 2, 2012 My opinion is to ride it pretty hard. The seating of the rings, in my opinion, is more effective if done under load. Not lugging, but wide open throttle in the mid rpm range up to maybe 6,000 rpm's. In today's machining techniques it may not be as critical as the old days when people babied their new engines during breakin and then wondered why the engine always used a little oil. The rings never seated properly. These are absolutely fabulous engines and the do like to rev. Don't ride it like a V twin where you lug it all the time and then don't feel it has the power it should. My 83 routinely sees up to 8,000 rpm's and it has over 150,000 miles on it. RandyA I agree with this. By their very nature, V4 engines are balanced and like to spin fast. With 1300cc capacity, the actual potential to "ride it hard" is pretty limited. It can get to "so illegal you go to jail" speeds pretty quickly. Treating a motor with sympathy is always a good idea, but unless you are red-lining every gear you are not really over-stressing the engine. A bigger concern is the chassis. It's an old design that wasn't particularly stiff even when new. Brakes, suspension .... they are far from the cutting edge although they are more than capable of carrying a prodigious amount of stuff a very long way, quite quickly. Just be aware of the limitations, and sensible mods to brakes, suspension, lighting etc are all a good idea. The go ride and enjoy without worrying too much about the rev counter.
KIC Posted January 2, 2012 Author #177 Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) I love the sound and the power of the V-4 compared to my old BMW K1200LT. The Venture does hate to lug... Edited January 3, 2012 by KIC
Keemez Posted January 2, 2012 #178 Posted January 2, 2012 I love the sound and the power of the V-4 compared to my old BMW K2200LT. The Venture does hate to lug... Wow..... that was one heavily modded Bimmer!
twigg Posted January 2, 2012 #179 Posted January 2, 2012 I love the sound and the power of the V-4 compared to my old BMW K2200LT. The Venture does hate to lug... Yep! My favourite bike was a Honda VFR750F-L It had a V4 with a gear driven top end. It revved hard and made a fabulous "whirring" sound as the revs climbed. Once heard, never forgotten.
Snaggletooth Posted January 2, 2012 #180 Posted January 2, 2012 My opinion is to ride it pretty hard. The seating of the rings, in my opinion, is more effective if done under load. Not lugging, but wide open throttle in the mid rpm range up to maybe 6,000 rpm's. In today's machining techniques it may not be as critical as the old days when people babied their new engines during breakin and then wondered why the engine always used a little oil. The rings never seated properly. These are absolutely fabulous engines and the do like to rev. Don't ride it like a V twin where you lug it all the time and then don't feel it has the power it should. My 83 routinely sees up to 8,000 rpm's and it has over 150,000 miles on it. RandyA This was an article that was posted here a while back. One I agree with 100%. Not what most of us were taught long ago but it is a very effective way to get the engine broke in properly, under load. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Mike
KIC Posted January 2, 2012 Author #181 Posted January 2, 2012 Wow..... that was one heavily modded Bimmer! Yea....it was nice with all the bells n whistles, but it was an.850 lb top heavy pig . The Venture is more fun in my opinion
Yammer Dan Posted January 2, 2012 #182 Posted January 2, 2012 Just run the crap out of it!! These big V-4s like to sing!! Uae a good oil and change it as you should. Look for a couple hundred thousand smiles before it is broke in.
KIC Posted January 3, 2012 Author #183 Posted January 3, 2012 Wow..... that was one heavily modded Bimmer! Just got home and saw the post on a real screen instead of a phone screen...now I know what you were saying..just a typo on 1 point font... They call them smart phones..but they are only as smart as the eye sight of the old guy typing...
Keemez Posted January 3, 2012 #184 Posted January 3, 2012 Just got home and saw the post on a real screen instead of a phone screen...now I know what you were saying..just a typo on 1 point font... They call them smart phones..but they are only as smart as the eye sight of the old guy typing... Yeah, I figured it slipped past you (sorta like a 1st gen slipping past a 2nd gen...). No biggie.
KIC Posted January 3, 2012 Author #185 Posted January 3, 2012 So as I get close to the removal and repair/replacement of the front fork seals, I am having second thoughts about removing the whole fairing and fixing everything around the fairing still being on the bike. I know the fairing does not need to come off, and it would be faster overall to not remove it. So as my list of what I want to do during this endeavor grows, I want to make sure I don’t pass up something that should, or could, be accomplished while the front is apart. I am: Installing progressive springs ( waiting on Mr. Postman) New fork seals Lubing the steering head bearings Checking radiator overflow bottle and related tubing Installing 2 - 12-volt cigarette lighter/power accessories Tightening all 16 valve cover bolts ( adding washers under them) Repair a few Tupperware tabs on the front side panels New radiator coolant since I will be pulling the radiator ( what kind to use ??) Checking battery water/acid level Also, I have heard about some bushings in the front end/forks (?) that might need to be changed when the seals are done. Where are they ? How do I know if they need to be changed/repaired ? Any special tools/issues involved ? SO… any other suggestions as to what I should do while I am completing these other tasks ?? I would like to see/her about locations of 12-volt plug-ins that others have used.
Venturous Randy Posted January 3, 2012 #186 Posted January 3, 2012 These fairings are a lot easier to take off than they look. On tightening the valve cover bolts, since they are shoulder bolts and normally bottomed, I suggest you get some thin washers and put then between the bolt and the rubber grommet. RandyA
Yammer Dan Posted January 3, 2012 #187 Posted January 3, 2012 If your 98 has the battery phrobe it is supposed to tell you when water is low. May have been changed out. Read tech library. Don't overtighten those shoulder bolts. read book on torque. Only 7 lbs I think??? Coolant as long as it is approved for aluminum engines. Use a good brand. Springs are really easy just be very carefull putting those caps back on and don't crossthread. Faring is not that hard to remove. Just get something to put your small parts in. Power outlets. Really just where they would be handy for you. spen a little more and get the ones with a good cover. I prefer the black instead of the chrome so it blends in with the panel. Yamaha now sells a tube of grease that contains Molly grease. I bought a tube of this but no reports on it yet. A lot of guys use the Honda Molly grease but they were out when i went after it. The Yamaha stuff is cheaper for more grease. Honda grease is used for rear driveshaft and pins. I'm thinking it or the Yamaha would be good for steering head?? Fixing the Tabs there are a lot of ways to go. I've used ABS glue with good luck. JB Weld can be good. The next time I'm going to try the melting metal into it i think. A paper clip would really make a tab stronger bent in the right shape around it.
twigg Posted January 3, 2012 #188 Posted January 3, 2012 (edited) It's a good idea to remove the fairing, especially you haven't removed it before. It gives you the opportunity to clean everything. split all the connectors, clean and re-assemble them with a smear of dielectic grease. You can do the forks wit the fairing in place, it's easier if it isn't. Likewise steering head bearings. The fork bushes are on the end of the sliders. They are relatively cheap and the manual calls for them to be replaced. I didn't, and got away with it, but I should have replaced them. If you plan on any night riding, the headlight is long overdue an upgrade. The HID kit I bought was cheap and excellent. One word of warning .... HID units do not like "blipping" off when you hit the starter button. So if you convert yours then you might want to add a separate On/Off switch for the headlight. One of the biggest areas of trouble on mine was the cooling system. Don't just change the coolant. Get the hoses off, especially the one small hose just above the drain valve. You are likely to find that it is wholly or partially blocked. Then give the entire system a backflush until all sediment is gone. When you run the motor, the coolant should stay green. If it doesn't then you still have crap in there that needs to come out. Cooling is marginal, but get it clean and it works well. The proper way to fix the weeping valve cover is with better gaskets. Skydoc sells the later ones from the V-Max?. If you add washers under the bolts you will be adding pressure to the cover. It will warp the cover over time, and is only a temporary fix. It's the gasket that has gone. The new gaskets are about $20 each and they are a 100% cure. Have you checked the valves clearances? They don't change much and it's a pita to adjust them. If you do it once you should be good for the next 25000 miles and have some peace of mind. If an exhaust valve tightens too much you will burn the valve and cry ... a lot. Keep asking, you seem to be well on the right track. ps ... Tabs ... GEt yourself a small sheet of ABS from a local plastics supplier. It's cheap and comes in different colours and thicknesses. Cut your new tab to shape and use Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK $10/qrt Lowes) USe that as a solvent to weld the new to the old. With most tabs there is plenty of space to make them thicker and stronger than the originals. JB Weld, fiberglass, glue ... lots of things have been tried and they are all temporary fixes. It's actually cheaper to do it correctly in this case Edited January 3, 2012 by twigg
Flyinfool Posted January 3, 2012 #189 Posted January 3, 2012 If it is the valve cover gasket leaking then you need to replace that, If it is just leaking around the bolts then you just need to replace the bolt gasket P/N 2GH-1111G-00-00, they are around $3 each. If you are going to go thru the effort of changing the valve cover gaskets then you want to plan on also replacing the bolt gaskets at the same time. AND while you have the covers off, check the valve clearances.
KIC Posted January 4, 2012 Author #190 Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Okay...WOW...thanks... I was going to do the battery probe and had left that off the list.. it's on it now. Good info on the flushing of the coolant... I will go ahead and take off the fairing because it had been recommended before so I could do the electrical connections and I also left off moving the TCI, so I added that to the list. I am going to go ahead and post the updated list so if somebody else in the future wants to complete this stuff, they will have the info. QUESTIONS: Where is the TCI located if it hasn't been moved already ? How do you "backflush the system ? Just use a hose and turn on the water ? Current List: Installing progressive springs be very careful putting those caps back on and don't cross thread. New fork seals New fork bushings on end of sliders Lubing the steering head bearings (Yamaha tube of grease that contains Molly grease) Checking radiator overflow bottle and related tubing Installing 2 - 12-volt cigarette lighter/power accessories Tightening all 16 valve cover bolts ( adding washers under them) If it is the valve cover gasket leaking then you need to replace that, If it is just leaking around the bolts then you just need to replace the bolt gasket P/N 2GH-1111G-00-00, they are around $3 each. Replace gaskets if needed (skydoc_17) Repair a few Tupperware tabs on the front side panels New radiator coolant since I will be pulling the radiator ( Coolant for aluminum engines) Checking battery water/acid level Battery Probe Move TCI to above air cleaner Fix broken tabs (Methyl Ethyl Ketone -MEK $10/qrt Lowes) Split all the connectors, clean and re-assemble them with a smear of dielectic grease. Lube speedo bushing and cable. Edited January 4, 2012 by KIC
Yammer Dan Posted January 4, 2012 #191 Posted January 4, 2012 TCI is under battery box and forward. Takes a little work and a flex shaft but those screws will come out most of the time. Just make sure you are using right bit and getting good bite on them. Easy to strip heads if you aren't carefull. If it has been moved it might be on top of Air box.
SilvrT Posted January 4, 2012 #192 Posted January 4, 2012 4 pages, 190 replies (191 counting this one), 5,587 views ..... That's a TON for a "quick question" ... :Laugh:
KIC Posted January 4, 2012 Author #193 Posted January 4, 2012 Woohoo...got my progressive springs in the mail today.. getting closer to launching Operation Dismantle
KIC Posted January 4, 2012 Author #194 Posted January 4, 2012 4 pages, 190 replies (191 counting this one), 5,587 views ..... That's a TON for a "quick question" ... :Laugh: Okay... so it wasn't so quick and it was more than one question...so sue me.. P.S. My charming personality and good looks is involved too....
Flyinfool Posted January 4, 2012 #195 Posted January 4, 2012 Okay... so it wasn't so quick and it was more than one question...so sue me.. P.S. My charming personality and good looks is involved too.... That can be arranged. Or we will all just show up at your place for ice cream and a swim.......
twigg Posted January 4, 2012 #196 Posted January 4, 2012 If you are removing the fairing getting the Ignition box out is easy. You can remove the cross brace under the battery box and with the inner fairing panels off you can then remove the entire sub-assembly carrying the ignition coils, box and other stuff. Most people relocate the ignition box to the top of the airbox, the cables reach. I found that didn't give sufficient clearance under the tank cover so I put it back. It's off again now and it is going in the left hand fairing pocket. All the audio equipment is coming out. It's dry in there and the cables will easily reach. I also have a crap load of extra electrical stuff that is all going in the trunk. To backflush the system yes, you pump water from a hose through it. Clean the smaller diameter pipes first. Mine took a lot of doing due to neglect. It was flushed, a lot of parts replaced then I ran it with a flushing compound .... then flushed again. I also had to remove the radiator and clean it out manually in the kitchen sink. Wait until the wife is out before attempting that. The shed is a cold place to sleep in January.
dingy Posted January 4, 2012 #197 Posted January 4, 2012 Most people relocate the ignition box to the top of the airbox, the cables reach. I found that didn't give sufficient clearance under the tank cover so I put it back. One of the mounting ears (front as it is mounted) needs to be removed from the stock TCI if it is being mounted on air cleaner. This allows it to slide closer to battery box and the lid will then clear it. Gary
KIC Posted January 5, 2012 Author #198 Posted January 5, 2012 My "crotch rocket " loving son finally rode the beast yesterday. Said I couldn't post the picture on FaceBook. Didn't say I couldn't post it here..
dingy Posted January 5, 2012 #199 Posted January 5, 2012 My "crotch rocket " loving son finally rode the beast yesterday. Said I couldn't post the picture on FaceBook. Didn't say I couldn't post it here.. I ran a 600cc suzuki this fall with mine. 10 mph rolling start. I don't think he knew what I was riding other than a big slow looking bike, or he wanted to take it easy on me. I was at 85mph, mid way in third when he caught & passed me finally. Gary
BradT Posted January 6, 2012 #200 Posted January 6, 2012 I look at this post every once in a while but kinda laugh with the title. "Quick Question" 200 Reply's and well over 5,000 visits. Brad
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now