New to the Venture..quick question..

[KIC]

Hi guys,

 

I have a couple of friends that have picked up the Venture. So... in the follow the pack mentality.. I'm selling a couple of bikes to a friend and looking for a used Venture. I have my eye on an 89 with 65K miles. Owner says it was serviced 2K ago.

 

Question: What should I look for, or be aware of regarding a Venture of this year/mileage ? Any unique issues/repairs etc ?

 

I know every bike has it's own issues. I appreciate any input.

 

Bill

[Snaggletooth]

The miles are not going to be an issue. It has a long life ahead of it if it has be maintained and ridden on a regular basis. You can expect 200K miles out of the motor.

 

Of course check all eletrical systems and functions. Steering and suspension. Look for rust in the tank.

 

Look at the body work and check for cracks, missing mouting tabs and damage. It's all ABS plastic and will be subject to being a bit more stiff than is was on '89. Easy to repair the damage if it's minor and tabs can be rebuilt. Most of us have done many of those types repairs. We love epoxy here.

 

Just remember that eBay is going to be your best place to find many parts that you might need. But, many parts are still available through Yammy or parts houses. Some have been discontinued. But after making these bikes for almost 3 decades there is still a fair supply out there and most years share the same parts.

 

Hope you plan to do your own wrench work. Most shops don't want to work on them. They say too old.

 

But that is why this site does so well. A lot of good info here and some knows these bikes inside out.

 

If the price is right and the bike looks pretty much intact and undamaged, I'd go of it.

 

We know every improvement you will ever want to make, don't we guys??? :rotf:

 

Good luck

 

Mike

 

Opps......saw you had another post active.

[Flyinfool]

Not knowing what you have had before, you can not ride this like a V twin, it likes to cruise around 4K rpm, and is not afraid of the red line while accelerating.

When you get out on the highway at around 55 in 4th or 5th gear, crack the throttle wide open to see if the clutch is slipping. A slipping clutch is common on these and is a cheap and easy fix. It just needs a new spring unless it has been slipping for a long time, then it may need a whole new clutch.

 

Another known issue is the starter clutch going bad. Sounds like someone with a hammer is inside the engine trying to get out while cranking the engine. Yes we have a permanent fix for that to.

 

And if you get it you must post pics. If there are no pics than it didn't happen or doesn't exist. That's just the rules here .......

[KIC]

Thanks guys... I understand the picture rule. I have had a BMW K1200LT, currently ride a KLR650, have a couple of TW200's and a YZ250. I have ridden my friend's Venture so I am a little familiar with the bigger bike(s) as the Venture isn't near as top heavy as the K1200LT.

 

I am hoping to go up and see it Tuesday or Wednesday since it is out of town and I am scheduled to be up there for work Wed - Friday. Taking my trailer with me just in case.....

 

Thanks for the insight of what to look for..

 

Bill

[skydoc_17]

Hey KIC,

Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit)

Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot!

If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking.

With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic.

While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected.

Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything.

Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF!

My thoughts, for what they are worth.

Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend.

Earl

[Keemez]

I have ridden my friend's Venture so I am a little familiar with the bigger bike(s) as the Venture isn't near as top heavy as the K1200LT.

 

I concur wholeheartedly. I've put several thousand miles on my dad's K12LT, and at anything under jogging speed it is an absolute bear if you're beyond a few degrees off upright. Never in my life have I felt anything so cumbersome and unwieldy. The upside is that when you're cruising down the road it's incredibly smooth/quiet and stable. His seems to hunker into a smooth harmonic balance right around 3400-3700 RPM or so, which just so happens to be excellent interstate cruising speed.

[ragtop69gs]

Don, This should be a sticky in the 1st Gen tech section

 

Good post Earl.

 

 

Hey KIC,

Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit)

Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot!

If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking.

With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic.

While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected.

Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything.

Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF!

My thoughts, for what they are worth.

Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend.

Earl

[Freebird]

Good idea. I copied it to the "Known problems and things to look for" area of the tech library.

[Yammer Dan]

"Brown Sugar" passed Earl's list with flying colors but she is starting to show her age a little. I think she is missing her garage.

[KIC]

Wow..lots of good info. I will definitely follow this advice. In fact one of my friends stopped by when I saw your post and he wants a copy of it for his bike.

 

Thanks again.

[Flyinfool]

Speaking of your friends with Ventures, are they members here yet? They should be.

[PBJ]

Hey KIC,

Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit)

Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot!

If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking.

With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic.

While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected.

Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything.

Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF!

My thoughts, for what they are worth.

Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend.

Earl

 

I'm copying this too and going to use it when I pick up the 86 in the spring but from what I remember the bike seemed to have none of these problems. I.e. cracks in the fairing, oil sight glass fogging, weeping etc.

But thanks again this will be useful and KIC welcome!

[KIC]

I have told my friend with the 2001 a long time ago to join. I belong to forums with my KLR650 and TW200's. My other friend that just purchased his cherry 83' with 5k miles was lectured again last night about joining. He saw these responses and said he would.

 

I talked to the seller today and he said that two things it needs is front fork seals and the cruise control doesn't work. It's funny that he had a BMW K1200LT that he sold and then missed the big bike riding so he bought the Venture. He found the Venture too big to haul around behind his motorhome so he got a KLR650 that he can use a bumper hitch so he's selling the Venture.

 

I had a K1200LT and bought the KLR650 as a 2nd bike but then rarely rode the BMW so I sold it. Now I miss the big bike riding so I'm looking at the Venture... Gonna drive up to look at it either tomorrow afternoon or Wednesday.

[oldgoat]

hmm my bike passed most of the check list earl gave out.

left fairing is cracked and was repaired but not in a good way.

swing arm passed steering bearings passed

new batttery brakes have been redone. some of earls updates

bike needs paint looks ugly. so im thinking of selling her in the spring for a grand?

im about to lose my car if i dont do something? only $3 grand left to pay off the car. with help from a credit card that will be maxed out and maybe selling the bike i think i will have that coverd. car comes first toys latter. and earl great post.

[KIC]

so I went and rode and looked over the bike. seems to run fine. Got ti up to almost 90mph and it seemed smooth. Couple of rough spots on Tupperware.

 

Got a couple of potential issues:

 

1) starter button sticks when started. Just gotta pull it back out. Maybe just a cleaning would fix it.

 

2) Appears to have an oil leak on the top left front cylinder cap.

 

3) front fork seals leaking.

 

4) Cruise control not working.

 

5) the steering is VERY tight. when turned right and left. while riding it I made a u-turn and it was a little scary trying to just straighten up. When it is on the center stand you can feel the tightness when rotating back and forth. I know that the steering head bearings are an issue but I do not know how they feel if bad. are they lose? Are they tight ? Are they hard to change other than pulling the front forks ?

 

6) No service records.

 

7) Probably need valves adjusted since no records, although I didn't hear any knocking

 

So... I made an offer ($1,500.00) and walked away. He said he had another offer higher than mine ($1800.00) but wouldnt know if the guy comes through with it until tomorrow. Said he would take my offer if the other guy falls through.

 

 

Oh Yea... it shows a flashing red light that he said was the battery which also showed up n the display. he said it was a new after

market battery but didn't have the "probe" as the original battery had ... Does that make any sense ?

Edited December 15, 2011 by KIC

[Yammer Dan]

Valves not a big worry. Bearings that tight did he adjust? Probe light fix is on here. Valve cover gasket can be slowed. Really need to add Progressive springs when you do fork seals. Cleaning could fix starter button. Cleaning may fix cruise.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Oh Yea... it shows a flashing red light that he said was the battery which also showed up n the display. he said it was a new after

market battery but didn't have the "probe" as the original battery had ... Does that make any sense ?

 

 

Yes that is very likely true. Again the guys will lead you to the "link" that will teach you how to make the light and warning go away.

You may have noticed that most of the crew here only have a minor knowledge of these bikes. :bowdown: :bowdown: Most of them live in the colder part of the continent so spend more months of the year tearing these bikes down and caring for them than they spend riding them.

Buy the bike... pay the 12 $ save hundreds in repairs and get your buds to join in the fun as well.

 

Welcome

[KIC]

Valves not a big worry. Bearings that tight did he adjust? Probe light fix is on here. Valve cover gasket can be slowed. Really need to add Progressive springs when you do fork seals. Cleaning could fix starter button. Cleaning may fix cruise.

 

He said the steering has been that way since he bought it. Guess I could replace the bearings when the front forks are done. Everything else seems simple enough. Guess we'll see if he takes my offer

[Venturous Randy]

He said the steering has been that way since he bought it. Guess I could replace the bearings when the front forks are done. Everything else seems simple enough. Guess we'll see if he takes my offer

 

Most likely cleaning bearings and race and retighten will solve most of this. Usually dried grease.

RandyA

[KIC]

Well, first of all I would like to thank everybody for the information and input. It looks like I am going home with an empty trailer. Looked at an 85 with 72K miles but the tupperware was pretty trashed. the biggest problem was the 2nd gear jump under power. Also a warning light for the ABS (?) was on.

 

I think the first bike I looked at sold today but I wasn't going to over my offer. Soooo...guess ill just keep looking...

[KIC]

I really want to thank you for the information. I took your post and turned it into a "checklist" with some of the information from other's posts and impressed the seller's with the thoroughness of my inspection. In fact the last guys asked for a copy of my checklist.

 

I'll still use it as I continue my search for my future Venture..

 

Thanks again,

 

Bill

 

 

Hey KIC,

Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit)

Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot!

If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking.

With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic.

While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected.

Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything.

Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF!

My thoughts, for what they are worth.

Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend.

Earl

[steamer]

If your interested in a 2nd gen, there is a 99 listed in the Tucson craigslist for $4800.00 Nov 13th posting. Maybe he will deal.

[Yammer Dan]

If your interested in a 2nd gen, there is a 99 listed in the Tucson craigslist for $4800.00 Nov 13th posting. Maybe he will deal.

 

 

Still plenty of real (1st Gens) bikes out there. Most rtepairs on these things are a lot easier than they look. Humm.. Some aren't. ASK!!

[KIC]

NEWS FLASH: Just got a call from the owner of the original bike I looked at and I guess his other deal fell through and he accepted my original offer. So ....if all goes well I should be loading it on my trailer in a couple of hours........ Pictures to follow.

 

We now return you to your regularly scheduled forum banter.

[Keemez]

NEWS FLASH: Just got a call from the owner of the original bike I looked at and I guess his other deal fell through and he accepted my original offer.