Cold storage

[Galapagos]

The bikes are soon going into cold storage. I read someplace that it is good to wash and dry the bike (dedicated to the bike leaf blower) and then use spray wax. You do not wipe it off. I plan on using Ice wax.

 

Yeas or nays?

 

Just to save the responses I also plan on an oil change and Seafoam or Stabil in the tank.

[myminpins]

You can if you want but it doesn't really make much difference unless your bike is going to be stored somewhere it's going to get a ton of "stuff" on it. Ours is in the garage and dust wipes off easily whether it's a millimeter thick or an inch thick!! LOL

[1 Canuck]

Hmmm...they (Turtle Wax) recommend wiping it off, so what would the purpose of leaving it on do? If anything it may cause a problem.

You may want to consider lifting the bike/wheels off the ground too.

[darthandy]

Don't forget to take the bike for a 15 to 20 minute run after putting gas stabilizer or Seafoam in the tank. This makes sure that there will be treated gas in the carbs, particularly the float bowls and in any other areas where evaporating gas could cause problems. Also, in case you didn't think of it, pull out the battery and store it in a warm dry place or attach a battery tender (NOT a trickle charger) to it to keep up its charge. And even if you store it indoors, you should either use a battery tender (preferred) or at least give it a trickle charge once a month to keep its charge at a proper level.

 

Andy

[XV1100SE]

To make sure the stabilizer (Sea-Foam) goes all the way thru, well into reserve, add Sea-Foam to the tank and fill with fuel after a good run. Run it on reserve till I get home (couple miles).

 

Parked in the garage over the winter on the CarbonOne lift with battery in. Periodically during the winter if the temperatures are above freezing I'll start the bike and let it run until it is good and hot (eliminate condensation) changing rpm (keep the carb moving) while on the lift. If the battery isn't strong enough to start it I'll connect the battery tender/charger. Running it for a while gives it enough of a charge.

 

I don't cover the bike. No room in the garage to park the car so it is pretty much the bike and work bench.

 

Did this with my '99 Virago and when I sold it earlier this Spring it still looked brand new (with 54k km) with original pipes.

[BradT]

I agree with the fuel additive in the gas and removing the battery, as I fully charge it once a month with a trikle charger only takes a couple of hours, then disconnect it.

 

I personally don't like starting it in winter as I am not confident you can get it warm enough to burn of the moisture. Idling will take a long time to fully charge a battery.

 

This is the way I store them but others ways work well for others. Also if stored on concrete I always put the tires on rubber mats.

 

 

Brad

Edited November 8, 2011 by BradT

[XV1100SE]

..... Idling will take a long time to fully charge a battery.

.... Also if stored on concrete I always put them the tires on rubber mats.

 

I don't just let it sit idling. Rev it to make sure the carbs are opening/closing, keep the oil moving...

 

Brad - you need a CarbonOne lift with legs !!! While running the bike on the stand I go thru a couple gears as well. This way you know any linkages are free and lubricated.

 

I know there is disagreement on starting the bike in Winter... but for me it works. I must have done something right with the Virago as it ran and looked new when I sold it. Considering it still had the OEM pipes after 12 years with no visible signs of rust...

[rickardracing]

Parked ours this weekend. Dropped the insurance to storage. I just put some Stabil in the tanks, ran them for about a half hour and shut them down. Turn the fuel line to off, cover them with the bike covers, hook up the battery tender and forget about them until about March. 2011 riding season is officially over for us.

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

Holy Cow, 6 weeks left at least, in Nova Scotia!

[XV1100SE]

Forecast here for Friday is a high of 6C with rain and snow mix. Supposed to be a high of 15C today and right now, clear blue skies.

[dynodon]

don't let the wax just sit...wipe it off! If you don't, it will collect dust and when you DO wipe it off, you will work in more of that dust in the spring. Better to wax it like usual, and that will protect the parts pretty well.

 

don't start the bike and run it from time to time. Modern seals and stuff won 't harden over just a few months, and even if you think you are warming it up enough to get rid of condensation, chances are you aren't. Reving the bike just puts more fuel into the system, and washes down the cyl walls. Better to just let it sit till you can take it for a normal ride of about 1/2 an hour at least. Use a Battery Tender as mentioned, Watch liquid level if not sealed. top off at beginning of "sleep" and again in the spring. It may not need it but you should check it.

 

Won't hurt the tires to sit still for months, they will round out nicely after a couple miles in the spring. I have stored old cars for well over a year from time to time, and the tires always become round again after a little use.

 

Fresh oil just before storing, use a fuel additive if you want. No need to change oil again in the spring if you leave it alone.

[Galapagos]

Thanks guys. I wondered about the wax. I think I will hit it heavy and wipe it down. No cover this year either. I had condensation last year. This is my second year of cold storage. Usually the bikes sat all winter in a heated garage. That was nice when I tinkered with them. Oh well.

Wax, oil change and fuel treatment next weekend.

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

When the Bike sits for a couple of months, does the gasoline in the bowls evaporate? Just pondering if it is useful to turn the key to on, to engage the fuel pump once a week or so, to keep the bowls wet ( I assume that is the clicking noise I hear, if the Bike is not used for a couple of days).

[V7Goose]

Doing an oil change before you store the bike provides almost zero benefit UNLESS you ride the bike a minimum of 30 miles after the oil change, at least one time, and especially the last ride before parking it.

 

To get the benefit of the fresh oil and reduced acids, you must get the fresh oil fully circulated through the engine, and to prevent the addition of new damaging condensation, you MUST get the oil up to a high enough temperature to flash off the condensation that you get from every single cold start. You will not do this unless you use the engine under load for at least 30 minutes - longer is better. I repeat, idling the engine for much longer than you are typically willing to wait will NOT fully heat up the oil. You must ride the bike to put the engine under load and create the heat.

Goose

[V7Goose]

When the Bike sits for a couple of months, does the gasoline in the bowls evaporate? Just pondering if it is useful to turn the key to on, to engage the fuel pump once a week or so, to keep the bowls wet ( I assume that is the clicking noise I hear, if the Bike is not used for a couple of days).

Yes, the fuel does evaporate, but refilling the float bowls regularly is one of the worst things you can do, just slightly better than starting th e engine without riding the bike.

 

Think about it this way - every time a liquid evaporates, it leaves behind some solids and residue. Once it has completely evaporated, it cannot get any worse. But if you continually add more liquid to the same bowl, you get another layer of solids left behind each time. This is exactly how they harvest sea salt.

 

Just prepare the bike well, then park it and forget it until you are ready to ride it for at least 30 miles. The ONLY thing you need to do during that intervening months is make sure the battery stays charged.

Goose

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

Thank you Goose!!

[Gary N.]

I like to shut the fuel valve off and run the engine until it stalls to use up the fuel in the carbs. Also fill the tank to help keep out condensation moisture.

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

Gary, I have read that running the carbs dry is not good. Something about drying seals out

[Gary N.]

Gary, I have read that running the carbs dry is not good. Something about drying seals out

 

I don't know???? Never had a problem myself. I do the same for my lawn equipment too. Now that we head south for the winter I haven't had to store the bike for a few years. As Goose said above the fuel will evaporate from the bowls anyway. I figure by running it out there's less chance of collecting crap in the carbs.