Question about driving lights/signals

[1BigDog]

Since the bike came with driving lights when I first bought it in 03 and I have never installed one on a stock RSV I have a signal light question for you. After assembling my inner fairing and hooking up all wires properly im having a grounding problem with the front signal lights. Driving lights work fine but when you put say the left signal on it will flash but the right signal will also flash alternately, but weak, which seems to be a bad ground somewhere. Same if I use the right signal.

 

Rather then going to the trouble of just rewiring the existing signal lights, I was planning on ordering late model, low mileage stock signal lights online, which can be had cheep. My originals did leak when it rained or the bike was washed, which makes me think its fairly corroded in there.

 

What I want to know, since I live in a humid area and im sure some corrosion has gotten in there over the last 12 years is: Are the signals the same as when it was stock and are they re-used when converting from stock to adding the driving light bar?

[mm482]

Yes, you use your stock turn signals.

 

Earl

[bkuhr]

Possible cross interfance from defective trailer light converter.

[Guest]

Rewired the signal lights with new wires and bullet connections. Eliminated the extension wires between the signal light bar and the harness, making it one piece to the harness to eliminate another connection point. Still have a grounding issue. Ran a jumper between various ground points to no avail. All thats left to do is to replace the actual signal light housing and socket. Cant find any late model signals on ebay right now so ill just live with it for now. Rear signals are fine, its just the front ones. I dont want to spend 90 bucks new just to see if thats the problem. You cant access the wires inside the socket so a replacement is in order.

[M61A1MECH]

Ruffy

This will sound a bit off the wall, but I had a similar issue on my 98 Tour Classic some years ago. Turned out to be a bad run/turn signal bulb. I could not find the issue so just for grins I swapped bulb left to right and the problem followed the bulb, changed the bulb and the problem went away. I never fully understood it, but it was fixed.

If you have not tried smething simple and silly, try it cannot hurt anything.

Edited November 9, 2011 by M61A1MECH
correct spelling

[RSTDdog]

Ruffy

This will sound a bit off the wall, but I had a similar issue on my 98 Tour Classic some years ago. Turned out to be a bad run/turn signal bulb. I could not find the issue so just for grins I swapped bulb left to right and the problem followed the bulb, changed the bulb and the problem went away. I never fully understood it, but it was fixed.

If you have not tried smething simple and silly, try it cannot hurt anything.

 

What he said. Its possible for one of the dual filiments to break and land on top of the other one and re-weld itself if its energized. That can cause a feedback loop through the bulb.

 

Another thing that can cause what you describe is if you have the bulb installed 180 out. Although there is the high and low index pin on the 1157 bulb , its still possible to install it backwards. Another simple thing to check.

[Guest]

I replaced both bulbs with new ones the other day. When I first took the light bar apart it was all working fine. When I re-installed the light bar using the old bulbs I had the grounding problem. I did buy new bulbs when I rewired the light bar but the problem is still there. Even replaced the 15 amp fuse. I tried disconnecting the ground wires from the harness. There are two wires that go into a Y clip in the harness and I ground them separately and together to the battery ground with a patch cord but still the same results. All I can think of is the ground connection inside the rubber boot which covers the light socket is somehow corroded. Only other option is to get some new signals. Still cant ride the bike so I have plenty of time to find the problem.

[Sideoftheroad]

All I can think of is the ground connection inside the rubber boot which covers the light socket is somehow corroded. Only other option is to get some new signals.

 

Quite possible. Had a similar issue. Mine was signals stopped working in the back and were solid in the front if I remember right. Ended being the ground from one of the front signals had completely broken off at that rubber boot part. I went over and over again in my head to go with used or new. Decided new signals because you never know with used, especially older used ones is that they could have a ground ready to break too.