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Posted

Been flying RC Planes for sometime now, Had a break in it for

the last 3 years. But as Winter is coming on I am back into it

as so I do not go CRAZY for the next 4 or 5 months being stuck

inside here in Iowa during the winter. bike is all put away and the

modeling begins.

 

My Question is ALL this talk about Sea Foam and I use it faithfully

and it's wonderful stuff, why would it not work in my older nitro fuel that has

been sitting for a couple years? maybe put an once or so in the gal jug?

The older fuel has been indoors all this time. for that do not know our airplane

fuel has nitro/methane and a percentage of oil in it. and are used in 2 stroke

and Four Stroke model engines.

 

Thanks for your in-put

Jeff

Posted

As long as the bottle has been indoors, sealed and not exposed to sunlight it should be good for at least 10 years.

The manufacturers top off the bottle with dry nitrogen to displace any moisture or oxygen from the fuel. It keeps quite well.

 

Sunlight will break down the nitro and it starts to turn into nitric acid. You also get nitric acid as a component of the exhaust.

 

SO then, What ya buildin????

Posted
But as Winter is coming on I am back into it

as so I do not go CRAZY for the next 4 or 5 months being stuck

inside here in Iowa during the winter.

Thanks for your in-put

Jeff

 

Jeff....I don't have a good answer about adding Sea Foam to the Nitro Fuel but..... unless its really expensive....I wouldn't take the chance.

 

I'm trying to understand how anyone living in "Ringneck Pheasant Heaven" could go "Crazy" especially this time of year?

Posted

Well it is about $20.00 per gal these days. I have 3/4 of a gal left from a few years ago.

It just got me thinking about Seafoam *LOL* why wouldn't it work? But Like you say.. we that fly these things have lotsa bucks into them.

Posted

Flyin, Finishing up a GP GeeBee this year FINELY *LOL*

Had even sold my brand new OS 120 FS with pump a couple years

ago I had in it. So this last month I am putting in a new TT 130 FS

gunna try that, and all new digital servos , did the Robart Strut Mod

So the landing gear will push in and out (pretty cool), added carbon fiber pushrods to it.

 

I also am building up a world modles 25 size cub with a OS 30 size engine in it.

Cub 2 (Goldberg) (40 Size) has a OS 70 FS in it flys great, building up floats for it this winter.

 

Sig Kougar with a OS 45 in it. flys like a bat out of hell.

 

And just found a NIB forgot I had it *lol* Goldberg 40 Size that I can build as well this winter.

 

Now my other Question is can I break these new engines in even tho I will not be flying them much this winter,, so there ready for next spring. and use some type of after run in them to hold them over? what would you do? or would you just wait?

Thanks!

Jeff

Posted

OK Guys! I knew Seafoam couldn't do everything :big-grin-emoticon:

OK-- now that I have your guy''ez Attention we can add to this

thread on what your next build is and what you might have in

the hanger as well. :thumbsup2:

Posted

I still have real flight 2, I need a better puter to run anything newer.

 

As far as breaking in the engines now or next spring.

I always break in my engines in the air. I do one tank on the ground and then go fly.

 

I have a Yellow Aircraft Stingray on the boards right now. This will most likely need a speed control to keep it under 200 mph. I still have not decided between the Wren 44 gold and the Jet Central Bee for power.

 

I also have a Reaction 54 with P70, for making big holes in the sky, it will get a smoke system over the winter.

 

My Giant Stinger with G62 has some issue with the engine, the last time I flew it it suddenly started to run really bad and just barely enough power to make it back to the field.

 

Then I need to pick out a few more projects to get the airplane fleet back to an "acceptable" level.

 

I have 2 helies that both need a major rebuild this winter. I may have to build another new heli to get the fleet size back up. Once these 2 are rebuilt i will still only have 6 ready to fly. That will never do....

Posted

Like they said keep it cool and dry and out of the sunlight. If you can put it in a smaller container it would be better.

I raced RC nitro boats for 15 years and had a blast. But 50 to 60% nitro is way over 20 bucks a gallon though.

 

Richie R

Posted

 

Now my other Question is can I break these new engines in even tho I will not be flying them much this winter,, so there ready for next spring. and use some type of after run in them to hold them over?

 

 

You can always break it in on the bench. I've seen some guys use engine mounts or even a vice to break them in....with a coffee can to collect the exhaust oils.

 

But make sure you always run it with a prop...otherwise you will over rev it.

 

The newer fuels have an oil componant in them so they don't need an after-run oil.

Just use a foam ear plug to protect against dust etc and put it away till next time.

 

I've got about 10 planes in the attic but haven't flown in 2 years!

Posted

Oh yes I have an engine mount all set up on a black and decker bench. throttle cable and fuel tank, this is why I was thinking of doing both engines over the winter and that way I don't have to hassle with breaking them in while in the plane. I will also be trying out the newer wildcat 2/4 stroke fuel (good for both) for break in I think. always did love wildcat when I used to fly heli's great stuff.

Jeff

Posted

Since I still fly helies, ALL of my glow engines whether 2 or 4 stroke get to drink Magnum 30% heli fuel. I also add 1 oz of castor oil to each gallon to give long term corrosion protection and to better lubricate if there should be a lean run. I burn 8-10 cases of this fuel per year and have yet to wear out an engine.

 

Most of the synthetic oil used in glow fuel will evaporate over time and leave your bearings free to rust. The castor does not evaporate, it has a much higher boiling point so it can continue to lube the cylinder during a hot lean run, and at 1 oz/gal there is not enough to make a big mess of the airframe.

Posted

Its probably a good idea to add the castor if you run Magnum. That fuel isn't known for it's rust inhibiting qualites...:whistling:

 

We run Byron's Rotor Rage Master's Blend and never use after run oil. I haven't replaced a bearing in years.

 

On the bench

Thunder Tiger G4 E720 Flybarless EP

Thunder Tiger G4 Flybarless Nitro

Synergy E7

Synergy E6

 

And a bunch of odds and ends that I don't know what to do with.

 

Posted

:Dman I remember the days I used to fly Heli's I musta burned at least 3 gals a week.

And I learned with mechanical gyros as well,back in the day I flew so much in calif

I never had to worry about rust as I flew most everyday !

Posted

The .049s are harder to get running right than the "big boys".

 

I fly everything from little .049s and tiny electrics up big gassers and jets and everything in between.

 

What problems are you having with your .049?

Which engine?

what fuel?

Posted

I used to fly nitro and then race nitro cars and now I just cant afford to gt all the nececities of nitro rc. I do believe that unless you are flying a trainer and have awesome dead stick flying abilities, I wou,ldnt mess around with the fuel. you may not get aclean burn resulting in a bad idle or throttle response.I would hate to be the one making a high speed low pass or a knife edge and have the motor cut out. It takes a few seconds to realize ha just happened and there goes that money and time pit crashhing.

Posted
The .049s are harder to get running right than the "big boys".

 

I fly everything from little .049s and tiny electrics up big gassers and jets and everything in between.

 

What problems are you having with your .049?

Which engine?

what fuel?

 

Basically just trying to get it started and keep it going. I found a cox manual online and went by that but I can't keep it going. By the time I get anything out of it I seem to run out of fuel in the tank. The manual says to go 5 turns out which is running it rich, once you get it going then back it off. I tried using a battery attached to the glow plug and starter spring, chicken stick and finger start it. I also tried different revolutions, meaning I would try 3.5, 4, 4.5 & 5 turns out. Nothing seems to be able to get it going. I messed with it for several weeks and the most I can get is about 5 seconds worth before it dies. I am using 1/2a fuel that I bought this summer at a local hobby store. I can get the bottle if you want to know brand, bottle, etc...

 

I also tried AMA which has several local chapters. I emailed I believe 5 people that have their name listed as running the local sites, only 1 responded stating he doesn't deal w/ engines that small but at least would try. His offer is much appreciated but I need someone that knows the engine.

Posted
Well it is about $20.00 per gal these days. I have 3/4 of a gal left from a few years ago.

It just got me thinking about Seafoam *LOL* why wouldn't it work? But Like you say.. we that fly these things have lotsa bucks into them.

 

 

adding seafoam may do more harm to a very good motor as your talking about changing the mix on a specifically premixed fuel

 

 

even at $20. a gal. if I was not sure I would think it would be cheaper to buy a new Gallon than to replace a motor

Posted

I have a HPI Savage truck with an Axial 28 engine. I just finished off a 2 year old gallon of 20% O'donnell Racing Fuel with no problems. I'm off to the hobby shop for another gallon. $27.99 now.

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