2007 Venture Rear Diff Oil

[Midnight]

Stopped by a Yamaha Dealer in my travels today to pick up some Rear Diff (Shaft Drive Gear Oil). I have been putting Yamalube SAE 80W90 part # ACC-11000-65-05 in it every year when I change it per dealers instructions.

They didn't have ACC-11000-65-05 and gave me ACC-Shaft-LU-00 (80W90) instead saying it was the same. Has anyone else run into this?

I want to put the Yamalube in until warranty is over. I was going to phone another dealer tomorrow and get another opinion and be sure. I was just wondering if anyone else had any experience on this they would like to share. Thanks JR

[allwx]

I don't know about those part numbers, as i've never used Yamalube gear oil.

 

However, anything any person at a dealership says to me is always suspect. You are wise to do your own research.

 

Most people use Mobil 1 Gear Oil in these finals. I've never heard of a problem. It probably is overkill to use a high priced synth oil in the final. Most people change this oil out every few thousand miles, because it is so easy to do. Under the frequent-change rule, you could save a few $ over time not using the high-priced spread. OTOH, nothing is too good for baby.

[flb_78]

That's friction modified oil. They run that in posi-trac rearends and axles with internal wet brakes. It keeps the fiber discs from ripping apart. I have to put a similar additive in tractor axles when I rebuild them.

 

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/apparel/apscitemdetail/3/122/all/1/347/detail.aspx

 

It won't hurt to run it in the final of the RSV.

 

I've been running GL5 85w140 SuperTech oil. I change it out either every oil change or every other depending on how I feel that day.

[farm1810]

I had read to use GL4 gear lube in the rear gear case. I have several old Jeeps and GL5 is not recommended as it will cause excessive wear in the brass synchronizers in the transmission and other brass parts. Would there be a similar issue with a brass part / washer / bushing in the gear case?

[V7Goose]

The specified oil for the RSV rear is GL4, but if you search the owner's manual carefully enough, you will find that they do state GL5 is also acceptable. It is hard to find, but it is in there (at least it is in the 2005 manual).

Goose

[Midnight]

Thanks for the help and feedback. I consulted another Yamaha dealer and they felt the Yamalube ACC-Shaft-LU-00 (80W90) was fine for the venture. It is GL-4 and GL-5 rated so it does meet the specs. JR

[djh3]

In my 09 owners manula its on page 8-16 middle column at bottom. In the section discribing changing the final gear oil.

I'm glad it says GL-5 is OK, because looking around I haven seen much GL-4. I'm looking at maybe the Valvoline 80W-90 Durablend It says on the autozone web site its GL-5 but nowhere can I find hypoid.

[Mover]

My owner's manual says take to dealer to change final drive oil.

 

Is the process more complex than changing engine oil?

What is the process for changing final drive oil.

Thanks

Mover

[Freebird]

It's one of the easiest things you can do. It is easier to get to things if you remove the left saddlebag. Remove the drain plug and let it drain. Remove the fill cap. After it has drained, reinstall the drain plug and then with the bike in the upright position, add oil until it is full.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

My owner's manual says take to dealer to change final drive oil.

 

Is the process more complex than changing engine oil?

What is the process for changing final drive oil.

Thanks

Mover

 

 

Here it is in a nutshell:

 

 

Change the drive oil when the bike has been ridden a few miles. The rear drive should be warm...but not hot. Let the mufflers cool for 5 minutes or so, to prevent you from getting a nasty burn.

 

Remove left saddlebag, by removing the 4 allenhead bolts inside.

(you dont HAVE to remove the bag, but its MUCH easier if you do)

 

Place a plastic cup under the drive housing's drainplug, and then remove the drainplug using a 17mm wrench or socket.

 

After the oil has drained, wipe off the magnetic insert on the drainplug, then replace the drainplug. It is always best to wipe off the machined mating surface on the housing and then use a NEW crushwasher ( available at the dealer). This will prevent seeps.

 

Remove the fillplug on the top, rear, (its angled) of the drive housing. Using a small funnel, or plastic hose, fill the drive housing with the new oil all the way to the top of the threads.

 

Replace the fill plug, wipe off any spilled fluid from the housing AND the tire.

 

Replace the saddlebags, and your done!

 

Shouldnt take more than about 30 minutes your first time, after that, about 15 minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I guess I was typing when Freebird was typing...but now it should seem pretty easy.

 

 

[Freebird]

That's OK. You did a MUCH better job. Thanks.

[Mover]

Thanks. What Freebird said is the same as a friend told me he does for his GoldWing.

Any idea on torque for the drain and fill plugs?

[gibvel]

Any idea on torque for the drain and fill plugs?

 

17 ft lbs or 23 Nm or 2.3 m kg for both bolts

[Mover]

Changing the final drive oil is done and it was as easy as everyone said.

Thanks for the assistance.

Mover