Question about rear wheel removal

[DANGEROUSDANA]

I am going to remove my rear wheel this weekend for a tire replacement. I have a jack and the carbon one adapter and a tire. What all do I need to remove before the wheel? The manual I have, says to remove the muffler, saddlebag guide bar (left and right) exhaust pipe, rear brake caliper, and of course the axle. This sounds like a major job. Do I need to take off BOTH saddlebag bars? And, does the exhaust pipe have to come off? I figured, I'd just remove the Right saddlebag and muffler, then remove the caliper and snatch out the axle???

 

I'm sure once I get into it, I will realize what has to come off. Just wanted some input, so I would be prepared. Sometimes, I spend too much time trying to "NOT" remove something that would have been easier to just remove in the first place.

 

Thanks, for any tips that might make the job easier. dana

[Freebird]

I remove the saddlebags, both mufflers and the rear brake caliper. Nothing more. Removing those things makes it very easy and they are not hard to remove. Here is a step by step submitted by Cougar that also covers a couple other things you should check while you have it apart.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515

[Sylvester]

I am going to remove my rear wheel this weekend for a tire replacement. I have a jack and the carbon one adapter and a tire. What all do I need to remove before the wheel? The manual I have, says to remove the muffler, saddlebag guide bar (left and right) exhaust pipe, rear brake caliper, and of course the axle. This sounds like a major job. Do I need to take off BOTH saddlebag bars? And, does the exhaust pipe have to come off? I figured, I'd just remove the Right saddlebag and muffler, then remove the caliper and snatch out the axle???

 

I'm sure once I get into it, I will realize what has to come off. Just wanted some input, so I would be prepared. Sometimes, I spend too much time trying to "NOT" remove something that would have been easier to just remove in the first place.

 

Thanks, for any tips that might make the job easier. dana

 

This is the best time to remove the differential and drive shaft and make sure the spines are greased well. Many complain of finding them dry from the factory. I just did mine again last month. Not a difficult job at all.

 

www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41660&highlight=removing+drive+shaft

 

www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263

 

www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56392&highlight=greasing+driveshaft

 

[Flyinfool]

You forgot the most important thing you will need.

 

 

6 VR.org buddies and a mit full of DQ coupons.........

 

Having ALL of the right stuff should take a couple of hour job and make it at least an all dayer...

[Yammer Dan]

What kind of bike??

[RedRider]

You don't need to remove the saddlebag rails. It is also a good time to lube the drive pins in the wheel hub. Easy to do (if you have snap ring pliers). If they are dry, they will likely have a film of rust. You can use some emory cloth or steel wool on the pins. For the bores, you can use a 20 ga. shotgun cleaning brush.

 

However, you are right. Once you get into it, it is readily apparent what needs to come off and what doesn't.

 

Pay very close attention as to where the washer on the brake caliper side goes. It is not uncommon to replace that in the wrong location and have to do it all over again. (Doesn't break anything, just doesn't allow you to remount the brake caliper correctly).

 

Not a bad idea to add some anti-sieze on the axle when you replace it. Use a new cotter pin (always).

 

Swap the inside/outside rear brake pads (put inner on outside and outer on inside). They wear unevenly and this will get you additional life out of the set.

 

Lube the gear spline on the inside of the drive pumpkin. It is also a good idea to lube the drive shaft splines inside the pumpkin, but that is a little bigger job. Just ask us and we can help you with it.

 

Be very careful off the brake disc when changing the tire. If you are taking it to a shop that does not usually do motorcycle tires, it's not a bad idea to remove it. Make sure to use a torque wrench and blue loctite when replacing the bolts.

 

While the bags are off, check all the bolts along the chrome rail. They have a tendency to come loose.

 

If you have the Carbon One adapter with legs, it doesn't stand up high enough to get the wheel out (without removing a bunch of other stuff like the rails). You will need to lift it a bit more with the jack once the wheel is loose.

 

Good Luck.

 

RR

[RandyR]

a gotcha not in the tech article concerns a spacer just inside the right of the wheel. It is not symmetric but can be put in the wrong way. So pay attention to it, also remove it before taking the wheel to a tire shop, because it can drop out and become lost.