Starting Problems

[uthpda]

Since there is the 10 pin connector going into the Flasher relay assy, I am not comfy saying check from this pin to this pin. Look at the harness connector that plugs into this assembly. From schematics, it looks like the R/W & B/Y wire is the coil circuit for SCCOR.

 

Unplug harness from SCCOR and put an Ohm meter across these 2 pins on the SCCOR. You should read around 100 ohms( may be up to 200 ohms. 0 ohms & infinite are bad). If you do read 100 ohms, this means coil is probably good.

This checks out ok

 

Put one jumper (clip lead) from 12V+ to the R/W terminal, Put another jumper (clip lead) from 12V- to the B/Y terminal. You should hear a faint click when coil energizes. You may not though, this is relay is buried in this assembly, next check will confirm it is working or not.

I don't hear a click, not a good sign

 

Next there are 2 L/W wires in this same harness connector. Put ohm meter across these 2 L/W wires, it should read 0 ohms, disconnect one of the battery clip leads and it should go to infinite.

ok, this was not fun, BUT the 2 L/W it didn't seem to matter if the battery leads we on or off it read infinite. I am guessing this means that it is bad.

If it is bad are there any cheap solutions? The flashers still work (not that it matters since the bike won't start...lol), so what are my options?

 

[dingy]

Considering the related flasher problems which are enclosed in this module, I think you need to get another one. Ebay probably.

I don't have a spare to part with.

Gary

[Flyinfool]

If you do determine that it is a bad flasher module I would like to get your old bad module to experiment with to find a way to have proper working LED turn signals AND retain the self canceling AND not need load resistors. I'll pay for the postage.

 

Then I just have hope that it is at least similar to the flasher module on my '88.

[bkuhr]

to experiment with to find a way to have proper working LED turn signals AND retain the self canceling AND not need load resistors.

 

Jeff, already did this for 83 flasher. Should be able to do simular in the 41R assembly.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63802

 

For that matter, if difficult to find replacement 41R assembly, could possibly remake entire 41R circuitry using off the shelf relays(future replacable), and if the contact base of the 41R was saved, it could be used for an OE fit of the bike harness in a remade assembly

[dingy]

270867972557

380386790474

270852982857

180728725764

Some on ebay right now 1st one is in canada, but a good price, last one is from a vmax.

Put the number in ebay search field, it's auction listing #.

Gary

[dingy]

If you do determine that it is a bad flasher module I would like to get your old bad module to experiment with to find a way to have proper working LED turn signals AND retain the self canceling AND not need load resistors. I'll pay for the postage.

 

Then I just have hope that it is at least similar to the flasher module on my '88.

 

Jeff,

 

I have a turn/cancel relay from a VMax you can have. It is very similar to 1st gen venture except start relay was not in this housing.

 

You want it?

 

I got it with some VMax parts I got a while back.

 

Block wiring diagram attached & couple of pictures of it. Block diagram looks like it is encased with starter relay, but troubleshooting area of manual shows it seperate.

 

Gary

[uthpda]

Ok... more odd stuff. I looked at items on ebay and $$ is not quite there yet (have to same some money for it and with winter coming not a top priority) SO I put things back together to move the bike around in the garage and get things ready for winter. Got ready to move it and was checking to make sure things were back together right, turned the key, and hit the starter button and things worked! This makes me believe that the module might be ok and I may have a short in a wire some where. I am so confused because I thought I at least knew what the problem was, and now...not so much. I hate electrical stuff!

 

Thanks for all the help and suggestions! This is truly a great place to be!

 

 

Flyinfool - If I knew it was bad it would be yours, now I am mot sure what it is.

[frankd]

If I understand correctly, you unplugged the flasher assembly, made some tests, plugged it back in, and now it starts?? If that is 100% accurate, then there is an excellent chance one of the connections in the plug wasn't making, and when you put the plug back in the module it either scrapped some of the oxide off, or now it's in a slightly different position. I think I'd remove the plug and replace it about 10 times, (to remove more of the oxide coating on the pins), and then put some di-electric grease (available at auto parts stores--Autozone etc.) to keep the atmosphere off the pins (to prevent oxidation) and give it a try.

 

Now, there is a chance that the problem is inside the flasher module. Maybe it has a bad solder connection and moving it around caused it to make again. Nobody else has had that trouble (that I know of).

 

If you want to be covered in case it quits again when you are away from home, you could splice into the blue/white wire coming out of the starter solenoid, run it and another wire into one of your compartments in your fairing. Ground the other wire, and connect a pushbutton switch to the wires (A normally open contact). This will give you a backup. If whatever is wrong with your flasher assembly crops up again, you can open the compartment, turn the key ON and push the pushbutton and your bike will crank.

[uthpda]

frankd-

you are correct that is what happened, I did clean the plug before so I am not sure that is what the trouble was. I am glad it works now, I will probably use some di-electric grease on it to be sure and use the splice method (just in case) because I am concerned that the problem is not fixed.

 

I did have some flasher problems in the past that I thought were corrected, I am now wondering if there maybe some problems in the unit. Time will tell and I am going to start considering what to do when the unit does go bad (I have a feeling it is only a matter of time).

 

Is it possible to switch the 41R unit with two other (cheap) relays? One for the flasher (obviously w/o the cancellation) and the other for the starter circuit? Has this been done by anyone? It doesn't seem like it would be that difficult.

[capn eddie]

If I understand correctly, you unplugged the flasher assembly, made some tests, plugged it back in, and now it starts?? If that is 100% accurate, then there is an excellent chance one of the connections in the plug wasn't making, and when you put the plug back in the module it either scrapped some of the oxide off, or now it's in a slightly different position. I think I'd remove the plug and replace it about 10 times, (to remove more of the oxide coating on the pins), and then put some di-electric grease (available at auto parts stores--Autozone etc.) to keep the atmosphere off the pins (to prevent oxidation) and give it a try.

 

Now, there is a chance that the problem is inside the flasher module. Maybe it has a bad solder connection and moving it around caused it to make again. Nobody else has had that trouble (that I know of).

 

If you want to be covered in case it quits again when you are away from home, you could splice into the blue/white wire coming out of the starter solenoid, run it and another wire into one of your compartments in your fairing. Ground the other wire, and connect a pushbutton switch to the wires (A normally open contact). This will give you a backup. If whatever is wrong with your flasher assembly crops up again, you can open the compartment, turn the key ON and push the pushbutton and your bike will crank.

 

 

If you go back to post #16 i had same problem took conector off relay cleaned blue/white wire pins and that fixed mine also. if you run the other wire to solenoid like frankd said be sure to have bike out of gear because it will start in any gear just like mine does. glad you got it working. I have not had any problems from mine since doing this, but still have backup system hooked up just in case it happens again.