Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, I've noticed the front end on my bike has been clunking while going over bumps for a bit now. I attributed it to loose neck bearings, and was partially right because it had a washy feeling as well. Took the top bearing out and it was loose as anything, the rollers would sit inside the cage, not good. So I installed a new top bearing and just left the bottom bearing on the steer shaft because it felt and looked good, just lubed it up real well and slid the whole assembly back on. It tightened up my steering nicely but still have the noise. With me off the bike, and the full 17psi in the front forks, if I hold the front brake in and push the front of the bike down when the shocks reach a certain point is when I hear the clunking. I guess it's time to pull the shocks? To be sure it wasn't the bottom bearing I had the bike jacked up and moved pulled on both shocks at the same time, not loose at all, could probably stand to be re-torqued since I installed the new top bearing. I wanted to do the progressive upgrade anyway so I guess now is the time. Any insight? Thanks.

Posted

Progressives. How often do you add air? Seals not leaking? If it holds air pretty good and the seals aren't leaking a lot just drop in the progressives and go!!

Posted
I wanted to do the progressive upgrade anyway so I guess now is the time. Any insight? Thanks.

 

My '83 did the same thing when I first bought it. Progressives cured that problem....

Posted
First Gens must be different than Second gens 17 psi ? in front Forks :confused24:

 

Yep, that's max pressure in the front forks and 71 psi in the rear of a 1stGen. That's using the Auto/High Class setting. Not sure if it can be exceeded manually, never tried. 17 and 71 always seemed high enough.

Posted

Looks like progressives is the way to go then. Anybody feel the need to disable the anti dives? Hard to tell if mine are even working. My bike was obviously second hand and the previous owner disabled the entire class system and put in manual air valves. I think I am going to order a rear shock too and be done with the whole air thing. With 50psi in the rear shock its really bouncy.

Posted

im going to be going progressives front with anti-dive blocking plates that skydoc has for sale. i get to remove that UGLY junk on my fork tubes. from what everyones says, its worth the 150 bucks. they havnt let me down yet....just ordered speedbleeders too.

Posted
Looks like progressives is the way to go then. Anybody feel the need to disable the anti dives? Hard to tell if mine are even working. My bike was obviously second hand and the previous owner disabled the entire class system and put in manual air valves. I think I am going to order a rear shock too and be done with the whole air thing. With 50psi in the rear shock its really bouncy.

 

On the rear shock, there's a rebound adjuster that will sometimes take care of the bounce. It's located on the left side back around the passenger peg. It has 1-4 settings. Don't jump from 4 to 1. It's sequencial. 1-2-3-4-3-2-1. That may help?? If not brace yourself when you price a new rear shock.

On the AD's, I just left mine connected, but if you want to spend the bucks, a couple of plates from Skydoc17 will work.

Posted

Had the same thing on my 83, the springs were squashed out pretty bad, put in a set of progresive and had no issues since

Posted

With those fancy block off plates that Skydoc has invented, someone should invent a way of filling the fork oil without having to take the tube tops off ;-)

Posted
With those fancy block off plates that Skydoc has invented, someone should invent a way of filling the fork oil without having to take the tube tops off ;-)

 

Amen to that brother.... :thumbsup2:

Posted

Hmmmm - agree with Marcarl - you're getting a clunking when the forks compress and no handling issues. Check that nothing is fouling as the forks compress, but you might find it easier without the air in the forks....

 

If the sound really is coming from the forks, it could just be the springs moving inside. That might not be a problem at all. First consideration though is whether you have changed your fork oil (or checked it has enough in there). Changing the fork oil is a fairly important service item that is often neglected. You can do it with the bike on the centrestand without removing the forks, so it's not too hard, but you'll need a 17mm allan key, or 17mm nuts locked onto a 10mm bolt to undo the slugs in the tops of the fork legs (to pour more oil in).

 

Having said that, I upgraded my front fork springs with Sonic Springs, (linear, not progressive) because mine has a sidecar fitted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...