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Posted

I see there are several brands of Speed Bleeders out there. Is there one brand that is recommended over all the others or are they pretty much the same.

Thanks

Posted

I highly recommend SpeedBleeders. For me, time goes by so fast and the next thing I know it is almost about time again to replace brake fluid.

Guest Slab_Ryder
Posted

I'll check my Canadian NAPA, tomorrow!

Posted

SB7100S - Front brakes

SB8125L - Rear brake

SB8125 - Clutch

Posted

Can anyone explain HOW a speedbleeder is used for the clutch bleeding?

 

The way the speedbleeders work is by building up pressure from behind to dislodge the spring loaded check valve to get the fluid flowing past it without it allowing any bleed back (air) into the system.. But if you've bled the clutch before, this isn't the case, you can't build up the pressure, as the fluid squirts out the top via the vent hole.. so how is a speedbleeder supposed to work in the clutch system?

 

Just curious..

Posted
Can anyone explain HOW a speedbleeder is used for the clutch bleeding?

 

The way the speedbleeders work is by building up pressure from behind to dislodge the spring loaded check valve to get the fluid flowing past it without it allowing any bleed back (air) into the system.. But if you've bled the clutch before, this isn't the case, you can't build up the pressure, as the fluid squirts out the top via the vent hole.. so how is a speedbleeder supposed to work in the clutch system?

 

Just curious..

 

You don't have to build up pressure in the calipers any longer... or the clutch. Just crack them open and pump fluid through the system. Just make sure the reserve doesn't run dry.... :)

Posted
how about a nice writeup on this, i will pick up a set today for my 83. which ones do i get for it?

 

For 1stGens order 3 ea. 8125L (calipers) and 1ea. 8125 (clutch). Order them directly from Speed Bleeder off their website. www.speedbleeder.com Lots of Good info about how to use them on there too.

Posted
You don't have to build up pressure in the calipers any longer... or the clutch. Just crack them open and pump fluid through the system. Just make sure the reserve doesn't run dry.... :)

 

Its the 'pumping' of the fluid that builds the pressure to allow the check valve in the speedbleeders to operate and not allow air back up into the system. This is why they are great for the one man job of bleeding the brakes. When you pump the brake lever, with the reservoir open so you can monitor the fluid levels and keep topping it up, you're forcing the new fluid down through the system, building up pressure, pushing any residual air bubbles and old fluid out through the speedbleeder as the check valve is pushed aside to allow the fluid out, and prevent air from coming back up into the bleeder..

 

I could be wrong but that's how I interpret the instructions and how I've been shown to use the speedbleeders, and that works. Its not that I'm getting into semantics over terminology, but querying how speedbleeders in the clutch system is supposed to work when you can't build up pressure to displace the check valve.. just opening the speedbleeder enough to let the fluid flow is the same as having the OEM bleeder in place..

 

Cheers

Posted
Its the 'pumping' of the fluid that builds the pressure to allow the check valve in the speedbleeders to operate and not allow air back up into the system. This is why they are great for the one man job of bleeding the brakes. When you pump the brake lever, with the reservoir open so you can monitor the fluid levels and keep topping it up, you're forcing the new fluid down through the system, building up pressure, pushing any residual air bubbles and old fluid out through the speedbleeder as the check valve is pushed aside to allow the fluid out, and prevent air from coming back up into the bleeder..

 

I could be wrong but that's how I interpret the instructions and how I've been shown to use the speedbleeders, and that works. Its not that I'm getting into semantics over terminology, but querying how speedbleeders in the clutch system is supposed to work when you can't build up pressure to displace the check valve.. just opening the speedbleeder enough to let the fluid flow is the same as having the OEM bleeder in place..

 

Cheers

 

You're pretty much spot on, and I guess you could say that pressure is built, but it's so small that it probably couldn't be measured. The Speed just lets fluid be moved through the system very quickly and easily. One note of warning. When squeezing the lever on the clutch, with the reserve lid off, be very carefull and cover all the plastic. In the initial 1/4" of lever travel fluid will squirt out of the expansion hole at the base of the reserve, and get all over the place. Not as bad when full. Don't ask me how I know this.... :) :)

Posted
You're pretty much spot on, and I guess you could say that pressure is built, but it's so small that it probably couldn't be measured. The Speed just lets fluid be moved through the system very quickly and easily. One note of warning. When squeezing the lever on the clutch, with the reserve lid off, be very carefull and cover all the plastic. In the initial 1/4" of lever travel fluid will squirt out of the expansion hole at the base of the reserve, and get all over the place. Not as bad when full. Don't ask me how I know this.... :) :)

 

 

Great paint remover ain't it??:whistling::whistling: Of course I wouldn't do anything like that.

Posted
Great paint remover ain't it??:whistling::whistling: Of course I wouldn't do anything like that.

 

It's amazing how much paint damage one tiny little speck of missed DOT 3 will do to the paint if it's left sitting for a couple of days.... Don't ask me how I know that either.... :whistling:

Posted

Hmmmm, got some old DOT 3 and 4 laying around. Wonder just how good it would be to get the paint/powdercoat off of the rims.......

Posted
Hmmmm, got some old DOT 3 and 4 laying around. Wonder just how good it would be to get the paint/powdercoat off of the rims.......

 

Probably won't touch the powder coat, but if the paint's the same as on the ABS plastic parts it should lift the paint right off. You might want to keep an eye on it...not sure what the effect of long term exposure will do to the plastic surface, but for the small speck I missed it was on a couple of weeks before I noticed it and the subsurface was clean as a whistle...:whistling:

Guest Slab_Ryder
Posted

Sea-Foam, cures all, I agree.

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