Marcarl Posted October 10, 2011 #26 Posted October 10, 2011 WOOOO HOOOO!!!! YAY! WHOOPEEE! bet you know by now.....it's FIXED!!!! I had a R/W and R/Y mixed up...which fixed the ignition problem....then all I did was take apart the CLASS controller plug (again) sprayed cleaner on it(again) but it back together and it's WORKING!!!! SO....now all I have to do is put it all back together again, blled the clutch...get a safety check and I'm ready to go! So...I hope this good weather lasts to the middle or end of the week! Good news I guess:happy65:,,, you just have me wondering what you are about to do with the clutch:think:,,,can you wait with that so more of us can come to take a look at the procedure so that if we ever need to do it, we'll know how it's done?
Trader Posted October 10, 2011 Author #27 Posted October 10, 2011 My typing is much like my mechanical work....I ususally get it right the 2nd or 3rd try. I have to BLEED the clutch. Hey JAYCEESFOLLY.....GET READY! WOOOOO HHOOOOO!!!!
Jayceesfolly Posted October 10, 2011 #28 Posted October 10, 2011 Get ready for what? I am going to be out of town all week starting on Tuesday. Rain predicted for Wed thru Sat anyway.
scottbly Posted October 10, 2011 #29 Posted October 10, 2011 I have a display unit that I don't need if anyone wants it. I ride a Venture. I bought a VR parts bike. The display did not respond when I jumped the battery. If you want it for shipping cost only let me know.
Trader Posted October 10, 2011 Author #30 Posted October 10, 2011 Well....the 88 is back together. Last night the class was working just fine....intermittant now. E4 error pops up...if I press down on the controll unit, it works...then E4 again. I bled the clutch...still needs a bit more. had to bleed the front brake too. I guess turning the caliper upside down a few times while it was off the wheel messed it up. It runs...but still won't idle without choke...have to idle it (using the choke) to about 3000 rpm to keep it running. Seafoam doesn't seem to be doing the trick. While I had the airbox off I poured seafoam down the throats of each carb...and I've run a few bottles thru it now. I opened the side covers on the carbs, checked the diaphrams and sprayed carb cleaner radomly inside the carb body. Sprayed down the throats too. Still the same. All in all I'm fairly happy with it. I'll probably have to rebuild the carbs this winter. One thing that is going to drive me nuts.....It seems to have developed a whistle at anything over 45 mph....I can't find the cause so far.
saddlebum Posted October 11, 2011 #31 Posted October 11, 2011 Well....the 88 is back together. Last night the class was working just fine....intermittant now. E4 error pops up...if I press down on the controll unit, it works...then E4 again. I bled the clutch...still needs a bit more. had to bleed the front brake too. I guess turning the caliper upside down a few times while it was off the wheel messed it up. It runs...but still won't idle without choke...have to idle it (using the choke) to about 3000 rpm to keep it running. Seafoam doesn't seem to be doing the trick. While I had the airbox off I poured seafoam down the throats of each carb...and I've run a few bottles thru it now. I opened the side covers on the carbs, checked the diaphrams and sprayed carb cleaner radomly inside the carb body. Sprayed down the throats too. Still the same. All in all I'm fairly happy with it. I'll probably have to rebuild the carbs this winter. One thing that is going to drive me nuts.....It seems to have developed a whistle at anything over 45 mph....I can't find the cause so far.That is usually a sign that there is a hole or air leak either in the hose between the turbocharger and air-to-air inter cooller. oh wait you don't have that. Did you check the carb mounting rubbers for splits or cracks.
Yammer Dan Posted October 11, 2011 #32 Posted October 11, 2011 Loosen lid on clutch master. Make sure air can escape Pull clutch handle it against handlebar and tie it down. Leave sit overnight and your clutch will be bled.
Trader Posted October 11, 2011 Author #33 Posted October 11, 2011 Loosen lid on clutch master. Make sure air can escape Pull clutch handle it against handlebar and tie it down. Leave sit overnight and your clutch will be bled. Thanks Yammer! I'll try that tonight. Did you check the carb mounting rubbers for splits or cracks. I'm assuming you are talking about the "only idle on choke" issue. I sprayed carb cleaner around the boots and there was no increase in revs.
Marcarl Posted October 11, 2011 #34 Posted October 11, 2011 For this procedure you'll need a fresh new can of CTC carb cleaner. Remove air filter and air box and the four diaphragm covers. Attach the small red sprayer tube to the can, look inside the carb throats and spray the cleaner into all the jets and ports you can find, each one should be open to another part of the carb, in other words, when you spray it should not spray back at you. Don't just spray at the jets, put the tube into the jets and spray through them. Watch your face, for some times it could blow back at you, and it's not good for the eyes or facial skin. Let things sit for 15 minutes and do it again. If some are plugged and still plugged, use a little air to force things a bit. Don't use 120 lbs, maybe only 40 lbs of air. Now move to the diaphrams. You'll find more small ports there, do the same thing, being careful to keep your face away from the top of the carb, spray will come up through the throats. Again, use a little air if necessary. This whole process should take about 2 hours. Button things back up, spray the rest of the container in the tank, and go for a ride.
Yammer Dan Posted October 11, 2011 #35 Posted October 11, 2011 SEA-FOAM SOAK You need about a 1/2 can of Sea-Foam and some fresh gas along with a piece of some kind of line that will work as fuel line about a foot or 18 inches long. Pull the side covers. Find fuel pump on the left side and remove the in line from the tank. Unless your shutoff valve works good I usually use a small pair of vice grips to clamp this off so it doesn't leak. Clamp it off and just leave hanging. (Petcocks are usually stubborn on these things.) Attach the extra line where you removed this one so you can pull the mix into the carbs and pump.It would help now to go around and open drain screws on carbs and drain what you can. Don't forget to close drain screws. Then mix your 1/2 can of Sea-Foam with fresh gas. I just fill the can the rest of the way up. If you have a full can just dump 1/2 of it in the tank or in a container to save. Or pour the Sea-Foam into something like a glass jar so you can see it to work with it. I use a Mason jar. Now add enough fresh gas to make it about a 1/2 & 1/2 mixture or a little stronger. If carbs are very bad I go about 2/3s Seafoam 1/3 gas. Now you need three hands. Insert line into mixture and start bike. Run until you are sure carbs are full of this mixture. Shut it off and leave sit overnight or longer. I have left them 3 or 4 days like this when I was busy. The gas you added to the mix will help you with restart. If you user pure Sea-Foam you will have a time getting it to restart. Hook everything back up after you have let it soak and start it up. It will cough, belch, fart, smoke and hiccup till the Sea-Foam clears out. But it should start to run better. Sometimes this can cost you a set of plugs. I throw a cheap set of used plugs in before I do this sometimes. You can get Autolites for about a buck and a half each. I have used This to clean some very dirty carbs. I hate to pull the blasted things. I did my 1st Venture about 5 or 6 times and finally one day it took off and ran like a "Blue Beast" Anyway Thats what I do and I rarely pull those carbs.Did I mention I hate that?? GOOD LUCK.!!!
Marcarl Posted October 11, 2011 #36 Posted October 11, 2011 The use of Sea-foam is highly recommended by lots of members, but does little for any ports or jets that are totally plugged, where the CTC carb cleaner can be forced into the carb ports, but it is a little harsher, so a prolonged period of treatment might not be all that beneficial.
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