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Posted

Took off a bit earlier than usual today on my RSV and the temps were a bit low (Around 52 F.). Anyway after about 3 or 4 miles, I passed a cage and decided to distance myself from it quickly. So I cranked on some throttle at about 125 kph (about 78 mph) in 4th (Well, a pretty hard crank!) and the engine revved with little acceleration! Clutch slip!! I eased off then ran it more easily to around 140 kph (About 87mph) and shifted into 5th. I then gave it a good shot of throttle and, sure enough, it slipped again. On the way back, I ran it to 120 kph and when I cranked the throttle in 4th there was either no clutch slip or so little that I couldn't detect it. Now I have read the posts regarding the weak clutch spring and adding a plate, but this slipping when barely warmed up and not slipping when fully warmed up kind of throws me. Am I dealing with just a weak spring or is something else going on here? Any ideas?

 

Andy

Posted

Andy,

 

What you describe is exactly what I experienced when I first tried to use both Mobil I and Castrol Syntec automotive synthetic in my Venture back in the 90s. Motorcycle Comsumer News had just done an evaluation which blessed using these automotive synthetic lubicant in a wet clutch engine. When I dumped it and went back to Golden Spectro the problem went away. Now I use a M/C sysnthetic.

 

So unless you have recently changed you oil to an unknown automotive synthetic, I will suggest that you just need to change your fiber clutch plates. But most of us have started using the heavier PCW Racing pressure plate and changed out the 8th half plate with a full fiber plate. In the Classifieds, SkyDoc sells this complete kit pretty much for his costs. Then there is also the Barnett pressure plate which is much prettier. Or if money is an object, you can just stack another Yamaha pressure plate on top of yours and put it back together and never worry about slipping again.....until you completely wear out the fiber plates. But this also gives you a much harder clutch to pull in....but it's not that bad.

 

Hope this helped,

 

Rick

Posted

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

When the engine is cold the oil is a little thicker so that is where the slip will first be noticed.

The slip will get worse till it slips all of the time.

Right now all you need is a new heavier spring and a gasket. If you wait long enough you will still need the spring and gasket but also all new clutch plates. You do not "need" to replace the half disc with a full disc. I am thinking of putting my half disk back in this winter.

Posted
:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

When the engine is cold the oil is a little thicker so that is where the slip will first be noticed.

The slip will get worse till it slips all of the time.:crying:

Right now all you need is a new heavier spring and a gasket. If you wait long enough you will still need the spring and gasket but also all new clutch plates. You do not "need" to replace the half disc with a full disc. I am thinking of putting my half disk back in this winter.

 

Yep, my "Skydoc kit" came in yesterday so I'm putting it in this afternoon...

Posted

I have not been able to find the skydoc kit in the Classified. My clutch just started slipping on my last trip. This thread gave me some good advice. Can you give me info on where to order?

Posted

Thanks for the replies guys. Earl has PM'ed me with details on his kit. The bike now has just over 76,000 km (About 47,500 mi.) on it and the previous owner was a retired fireman who kept it in "like new" condition. When I spoke with him at the time of the purchase, he struck me as the type who probably never went over the speed limit or pushed it hard. I, on the other hand, can't say the same for myself, so it sounds like it's time to get Skydoc's kit. Just have to decide if I need the replacement plates or if I should just get the kit itself. From what I've read here, it sounds like the kit should be enough to do the job. The oil was changed just before I bought it and I have no idea what was used and since the P.O. had a shop do the oil changes (I believe it was an independent, not a dealer.), I doubt that I can find out what was used. I definitely would not want to take it to the local dealer...I wouldn't trust that bunch to properly wash my bike, let alone work on it.

 

Andy

Posted
Yep, my "Skydoc kit" came in yesterday so I'm putting it in this afternoon...

 

 

DONE!!!!! :dancefool::dancefool::dancefool:

 

As others have said, cleaning the gasket was the most time consuming part. Haven't ridden it but about 20 miles,so far :fingers-crossed-emo , but it didn't slip cold like it had been doing.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

This is great! I have the PCW hd spring kit and new plates. Was getting out of the way of a car and when I twisted the wick, engine reved and took a second to catch. I got out of the way of the car but now the seat has a hole in it ;-). This is the first time to replace clutches in this bike. Do I have to remove the exhaust to get into the clutch? Is there anything I need to watch out for?

Wayne

Posted
This is great! I have the PCW hd spring kit and new plates. Was getting out of the way of a car and when I twisted the wick, engine reved and took a second to catch. I got out of the way of the car but now the seat has a hole in it ;-). This is the first time to replace clutches in this bike. Do I have to remove the exhaust to get into the clutch? Is there anything I need to watch out for?

Wayne

 

see thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64038

Posted
This is great! I have the PCW hd spring kit and new plates. Was getting out of the way of a car and when I twisted the wick, engine reved and took a second to catch. I got out of the way of the car but now the seat has a hole in it ;-). This is the first time to replace clutches in this bike. Do I have to remove the exhaust to get into the clutch? Is there anything I need to watch out for?

Wayne

You shouldn't have to remove the exhaust if you have a "good" set of ball type Allen wrenches. Also I would suggest that you invest in a 1/4" drive inch/pound torque wrench for the pressure plate retainer bolts. From what most say using the "calibrated wrist" can result in broken bolts and/or stripped threads in the soft aluminum of the clutch housing.

Posted

I took an allen wrench and cut it down to clear the exhaust. Worked great.

Posted

I had same symptoms...put a kit in it supplied by a forum member...the friction discs were fine, got a heavier spring and some other needed parts, all one kit, about 89 bucks if I remember..there is a thread on it here somewhere....easy to install...NO slip since...

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