reddevilmedic Posted September 6, 2011 #1 Posted September 6, 2011 i had enough. decided to remove class. controller kept showing e4, no matter how many time i checked and resolder joints. no matter how many times i cleaned connections and checked wiring. no matter how many times i yelled at it. it just is junk. so off to the hardware stores i went! first, removed class compressor at 2 air line bolts. unhooked wiring, and junked it. then cut off old fittings. tapered air hose about 1/2 inch to get compression fittings on easier. cut off taper for clean look. used locktite 545 (hydraulic) to assemble fittings. did for both sides. i wasnt sure which was for which, so i put air in sloooowly. front of bike jumped into air and nearly scared me to death! set at 15psi. next rear( i only know its rear because of previous near-death experience). set at 52psi. im 220lbs. price of parts: $17.00 time took: 2 hrs(newbie, take it easy people) being able to cancel fitting for straight-jacket: priceless.
Lil Venturous Posted September 6, 2011 #2 Posted September 6, 2011 They might be a little more then most run in the front? You may also look into progressive springs and not run any air. Im am still new to the ventures though and hope others chime in. I keep hopeing my airride dont tear up.
KarlS Posted September 6, 2011 #3 Posted September 6, 2011 Nice. I was lucky, mine didn't work when I first got it (along with a lot of other stuff) and it was do to a rotted out fuse block. (which also fixed most other problems) If you switch to the progressive front fork springs you won't have to use any air in the front. (I switched but run 5lbs, I'm 300lbs) You might want to use a bicycle hand pump (the hand held ones) to air up the front.
reddevilmedic Posted September 6, 2011 Author #4 Posted September 6, 2011 according to manual it says 7-21 in front, and 7-85 rear for manual adjustments.
saddlebum Posted September 6, 2011 #5 Posted September 6, 2011 May I make two suggestions 1) instead of using the 2 female couplers use 2 bulkhead fittings this why you can mount them nice and neat . Here is a link http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.de7b26ee6a659c147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=fcc9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=default&vgnextdiv=&vgnextcatid=10261&vgnextcat=207ACBH+ANCHOR+COUPLING&Wtky=FITTINGS 2) send me you left over class parts I will keep them for spare parts.
mlew Posted September 7, 2011 #6 Posted September 7, 2011 I could use another CLASS controller, my window is cracked and fogged. I need a replacement. I was almost to the point of removing mine but I finally got it to work.
GaryZ Posted September 7, 2011 #7 Posted September 7, 2011 I removed the class system and added air valves with pressure gauges. You can barely see them behind the seat in this picture. I run 0 psi in the front (Progressive Spring), 6 psi loaded and carrying a passenger. The back runs at 50 psi (I'm 245lbs).
reddevilmedic Posted September 7, 2011 Author #8 Posted September 7, 2011 thats right! it was gary who showed me a pic of his setup....duh. thanks gary. progressives will probably be real soon. havnt had a chance to ride since my repair, but maybe tomorrow. its still holding air though, and ive sat on it a few times.
safetyguy Posted September 8, 2011 #9 Posted September 8, 2011 I think you guys are onto something here. Don't the Gen2s have a way to manually add air to the suspension system? Is there any interchange between parts from G2s and G1s?p Can we engineer a system with an adjustable pressure relief device (i.e., to limit the air in the front to 17 psi and the rear to maybe 60psi) that can be hooked into the old lines? Hey after resoldering one broken joint on the CLASS printed circuit board, revamping the dessicant, and cleaning out the air solenoids this weekend - I must admit that I wouldn't mind becoming a biker with no CLASS.
dz Posted September 9, 2011 #10 Posted September 9, 2011 reddevil, Where did you get the brass valves? Did you get those at the hardware store too. Somebody jacked up my lines and just glued rubber valves in a hose and then glued that hose onto the main air hoses. I think thats why mine leak, well I know thats why the rear leaks because I can hear it escaping from there. Also, what size compression fittings and such?
reddevilmedic Posted September 9, 2011 Author #11 Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) the compression fittings are 1/4 to 1/8, i got those at ace hardware. the 1/4 is at the hose end, where the air line is going into. but they didnt have the 1/8 schrader valve fitting. i found those at parker supply. they were in a goodyear center. they have all kinds of hydraulic stuff. since they didnt have a female schrader, i used a coupling between them. with loctite, about 20.00. if you have a hard time finding the pieces let me know, ill pick them up and you can paypal me. Edited September 9, 2011 by reddevilmedic
GaryZ Posted September 9, 2011 #12 Posted September 9, 2011 A project on my to-do list is to re-install the stock compressor and solenoid valves with the air gauges. A simple toggle switch will wire up and engage the compressor, route the air to the front or back, and I will monitor the pressure on the gauges . . .
reddevilmedic Posted September 9, 2011 Author #13 Posted September 9, 2011 bike looks good gary. what color paint did you use?
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now