oil light on

[yamtom]

Hi, Ive searched for this problem but didnt find any specific info. I have an 83, with twenty thousand miles. My oil light comes on, even though my oil level is correct. Ive done the cc vent to atmosphere, and that cured the burping thing that was going on. The oil light starts out, off at a cold idle, but will usually come on, after a few minutes riding, then will go off again usually after about twenty mins or less of riding. It will also tend to come on, if I corner and lean a lot. I dont ride it hard , so heavy acceleration isnt turning it on.

 

I think, perhaps there is a cause and its thus, while cold idling, the bike has lots of oil in the sump, so the lite if off, after thirty seconds or so, some of that oil is up in the engine and since its cold, doesnt drain back to the sump correctly. After the twenty or so minutes, the oil is so hot that it drains back quickly thus curing the oil lite.

 

If this is true, then I would benefit from putting in a lighter oil, but it appers that there is general agreement that 15 forty diesel oil is about what I would want. Would there be any benefit to running a cleaner of some kind in the oil, just prior to changing it, I dont even know if this exists, but am asking and if you know a brand name lets hear it.

 

I have also, read about re soldering the cmu, since I dont know about that,are there any instruction on line on how to do that. I actually also have the brake lite coming on rarely. I know there is plenty of brake fluid in it so I assume that is a re solder item also.

 

I also have read something about checking the sending unit and wiring for the oil level light. If someone can tell me how to use the MM to check it I would very much appreciate it , or better yet send me to the url to check it is. Thanks in advance guys, I am pretty hep on how to work on the xs11 bikes, but this venture is quite new to me.

[bkuhr]

The oil light is controlled by oil level switch in bottom of the sump.

Your description sounds like the cmu is working properly, but an easy test would be to disconnect the wire from the oil level switch on bottom of pan(only wire down here) and touch the wire to the engine casing while watching the light, light should be on when wire touched to ground(engine).

 

You may be correct with oil slow to return to sump.

Here is what I am using

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx

 

BTW, oil should be checked on level surface with bike held straight upright, off side stand. It should be between the 2 hash marks on the sight glass. Do not overfill, will pump excess into air cleaner box. Can put on center stand but I find it easier to just grab right bar and pull it up and look.

 

The brake light could be due to there are two, 2, brake masters/reservors. The front one on handle bars operate right front brake. There is a rear master on the right rear of the motor down low that operates the rear and left front bars. (integrated braking system).

Each of these masters has a low level switch 'in the master', wired in parallel, either one will active warning light. The rear is difficult to inspect fluid level. It has a brass plug in the side of it, and the plug is known to seize to the reservoir, braking the reservoir in the process of removal. If you can not easily get this screw out-stop trying, and completely remove the master out to where you can work on it. then apply anti seize on reassembly.

Probably need to use 'turkey baster' to add and check fluid.

 

If you can get the brake light to stay on, then disconnect the switch wiring at the reservoir first rear then front to determine which one will cause light to turn off. this is the one with stuck low level float or actual low fluid.

 

Bleeding this integrated left front is a real bear. Likely require cracking banjo fitting up high under triple tree to bleed air.

 

Others have removed integrated brake systems, and others have upgraded to MK II brakes, and capped off anti dive assemblies if progressive spring installed in the forks.

[MiCarl]

There are great big wide open passages from the crankcase to the top of the heads for the cam chains to pass through. Very unlikely you're ending up with all your oil on top.

 

More likely a flaky switch a worn wire that is grounding intermittently.

[yamtom]

Hi Bk,

 

I will try the grounding wire test for the oil wire n sending unit tomorrow. I knew about the level state for the oil level, I have it level and its between the hash marks perfectly, almost perfectly filling half the site glass. Ive already cleaned out the air box, it had just a bit of oil in it, my pcv is vented to atmosphere so there wont be pressure buildup .

 

I would love to go with synthetics, Ive looked at the rotella t6 and actually have some t5 in stock here, but am not going to use it. I am a bit paranoid about synthetics being reported to increase oil leaks, not being appropo for older engines, reports of slipping starter clutches, and also slipping clutches in drivetrain. Amsoil claims that the drivetrain clutches are safe with amsoil, and I like the idea of the amsoil being better at preventing rust with our long layups up here and my short trip riding. Fifteen mins at a time is a longer ride for me, and can take two or three of those a day in summer. If I can be sure that the starter clutches as well as the drivetrain clutch will be ok with amsoil, I am sure that it will be a bit thinner and that would enhance drain back too.

 

Brake lite, I have checked both reservoirs, and the rear one may have started off a little low but I topped it off. Indeed, that fill plug is quite a bear, and I didnt like all the muscle I had to put into loosening it. I didnt use antisieze on it, but if its safe to do so , I will get the plug off and do that now so it s not a problem in the future.

 

I will do the wire check too, on the brake cyls to see which one is misbehaving. That should be easy enuff thats for sure. Is it likely that a fluid change outright, by bleeding new fluid in would correct the float thing from sticking? I will do that in any case when I get to it, just curious. So I think you are warning me that the left front brake will be a problem to bleed, if there is no air in the system now, that banjo up top should not need to be disturbed, ok, correct?

 

I do intend to go to progressive springs, and am curious , as to whether the anti dive needs to be taken off, or maybe it doesnt, in any case, its worthless on my bike now. Does it have to be removed when going to progressives or can it just sit there doing nothing as it is now.

 

I am also interested perhaps in separating the brake system out to normalize it, that is front controls both fronts and rear just the rear. I have a lot of riding experience and am sure I can handle both fronts together with no lockup problem. How much changing needs to be done, I know the front master will have to be changed and all the front lines too. I do have an xs750 master cylinder around here, and I think that will work since it controls both fronts on the 750. Can the rear mc line to the front just be blocked off, or does the proportioning valve need to be changed somehow?

 

Karl, I will be sure to inspect the wiring before I worry too much about oil return. Thanks TomSmith

 

 

 

 

bkuhr

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#3 Yesterday, 07:03 PM

MiCarl 1989 Venture Royale Supporting Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: [ame="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=Livonia%20%28Metro%20Detroit%29"][/ame] Livonia (Metro Detroit)

There are great big wide open passages from the crankcase to the top of the heads for the cam chains to pass through. Very unlikely you're ending up with all your oil on top.   More likely a flaky switch a worn wire that is grounding intermittently. __________________ 1989 Venture Royale 1982 XJ650 (Sold)

[Wizard765]

Skydoc has a kit to de-link the brakes. I did that this past winter as well as changing to stainless braided lines. Much improved braking on my 84 now. He has everything you need to do this.

[bkuhr]

Tom

While synthetic oil does not 'cause' leaks, it does a very good job of cleaning the inside of the engine, including old dino oil sludge that may have plugged off old leaks. Then it appears that synthic has started a leak. A couple of spots on 83 that seem to frequently leak: valve covers, wire bushing coming out of alternator, neutral position switch.

 

Keep in mind, old brake fluid absorbs water from atmosphere. Water = rust. If you look in reseviors, you may find that float switch is cover with rust. Also applies to clutch system. You are correct, if there is currently no air in system, and you can prevent adding air to system, then you wont have to wory about bleeding at the tripletree.(But I would suggest identifying the area, as the mods you are looking at doing will add air that will need to be bled here.

 

I'll let others answer as to brake mods, as I have not done them. Lots of options. some member vendors here. I think skydoc17 has just about all the parts you could want.

I have done the progressive springs, and best thing since icecream. Not even necessary to run any air in front forks.

 

You can also search the form using terms such as brake mod, progressive, delink, etc. Lot of writeups with pics.