clutch bleeding air bubble extravaganza

[Sandbagger]

I changed the clutch slave today. The previous clutch slave had a leaky bleeder due to bad female threads. It came with new bleeder screw and inner works. Bled the clutch until I didnt see any bubbles and the clutch was soft and not effective at all. Went and purchased a hand vacumn pump and got so many bubbles it was incredible. Thought was I was maybe getting bubbles from where the hose was. It was on tight. I tried 3 different types of bleeder screws. Same result. Very frustrated. Anybody know what I'm doing wrong?

[wes0778]

Air is coming from around the threads. Put Teflon tape on the threads or buy Speed Bleeders.

[Sylvester]

Air is coming from around the threads. Put Teflon tape on the threads or buy Speed Bleeders.

 

 

What Wes 0778, said. Get the speed bleeders.

 

[Sandbagger]

I tried 3 bleeders. Speed bleeder was one of them. Same result.

Massive bubbles.

PS- I have speed bleeders on my brakes.

[dingy]

The speed bleeders will also leak air on an old set.

 

Is bike on side stand? (saw it was an RSV, so it has to be), If it is on side stand, there could be a pocket of air in slave cylinder that is a little higher than the bleeder. Get it as straight up as possible.

 

Put at least 5 wraps of Teflon tape on, as much as you can and get it started into female port on slave.

 

It only takes a minuscule hole to pull air in, it will drive you nuts.

 

Slow pumping on mighty vac or you will build a high vacuum in line and promote leaking around the threads.

 

If it isn't leaking at master end it has to be a bleeder leak. Assuming the slave is new and not leaking internally at least.

 

Gary

[wes0778]

Another "trick" some have used is to bleed the clutch as best you can then pull the lever in and zip tie it to the grip. Leave it for at least 12 hours (24 if you can wait that long). This seems to allow the air to move up the hose and be pushed out the top when you do release the lever.

I think it was YammerDan that came up with this...

[Seaking]

Bleeding the clutch is simple and it helps to have a vacuum pump pulling the fluid down from the reservoir but you have to be careful not to suck air into the system from the top, so it's almost a two person job to be sure..

 

On the subject of speed bleeders.. I don't see how they work on the clutch system as the system has to be closed system to work. If you have the reservoir cap off, and pull in the lever, you get a fun squirt of fluid coming out of the reservoir return vent (little hole at bottom of reservoir.. The Speed Bleeders work with a spring loaded ball that when you pull in the brake lever, for example, the pressure built up pushes the ball aside, lets the fluid out and when you release the lever, the ball reseats itself and prevents air being sucked up back through the bleeder port.. that's why speed bleeders work great, you don't need two people to bleed brakes.. just apply the brakes and keep the reservoir filled as you watch the fluid go to a catch receptacle..

 

That's why I can't see a speed bleeder working on the clutch system.. ? Or am I missing something?

[camos]

Put at least 5 wraps of Teflon tape on, as much as you can and get it started into female port on slave.

Teflon tape works well but needing 5 wraps should only be necessary on threads that are hooped. In any case, every time or any time teflon tape is used be sure not to let it hang over the inside end of the threads. Not even a micron. Best bet is to always leave the first 1/4 turn of the thread bare. If teflon gets into a hydraulic system it will clog small orifices and possibly even act as a flapper valve to create inconsistent symptoms.

 

Probably everyone knows this but forewarned is forearmed... whatever that means.

[Condor]

Sent you a PM.

[TonyLudwick]

I had the same problem as you when trying to use a vacuum pump. Gave up and just did it the old fashion way and was done in 5 minutes. Fill the reservoir, Hook a hose to the bleeder, Use a wrench to control the bleeder. Squeeze the clutch lever 8-10 times and hold to grip, open bleeder 1/4 turn or so or enough to bleed fluid/air out, close bleeder, repeat until no more air bubbles and firm clutch squeeze, (keep an eye on the fluid and make sure you keep it full enough not to pump air. My hand got tired from the squeezing, but I did not have problems like I did when I tried using the vacuum pump.

[Sandbagger]

The speed bleeders will also leak air on an old set.

 

Is bike on side stand? (saw it was an RSV, so it has to be), If it is on side stand, there could be a pocket of air in slave cylinder that is a little higher than the bleeder. Get it as straight up as possible.

 

Put at least 5 wraps of Teflon tape on, as much as you can and get it started into female port on slave.

 

It only takes a minuscule hole to pull air in, it will drive you nuts.

 

Slow pumping on mighty vac or you will build a high vacuum in line and promote leaking around the threads.

 

If it isn't leaking at master end it has to be a bleeder leak. Assuming the slave is new and not leaking internally at least.

 

Gary

 

This was the problem. Put teflon tape and hooked my hand vacumn and a lot of fluid and have a great clutch again. Thanks to all of you for your effort in helping me out. Would have been lost without you guys.

Thanks,

Bob

[Seaking]

I had the same problem as you when trying to use a vacuum pump. Gave up and just did it the old fashion way and was done in 5 minutes. Fill the reservoir, Hook a hose to the bleeder, Use a wrench to control the bleeder. Squeeze the clutch lever 8-10 times and hold to grip, open bleeder 1/4 turn or so or enough to bleed fluid/air out, close bleeder, repeat until no more air bubbles and firm clutch squeeze, (keep an eye on the fluid and make sure you keep it full enough not to pump air. My hand got tired from the squeezing, but I did not have problems like I did when I tried using the vacuum pump.

 

Hi Tony.. so you're pulling the clutch lever in with the cover ON? Otherwise you're going to get a spray of brake fluid coming up from the return hole at the bottom of the reservoir.. ?

[TonyLudwick]

Actually, I didn't have mine on. I just was careful not to squeeze too rapidly because I assumed that would happen. I also had my bike level on a jack with the bars turned all the way to the right. I would also recommend covering any bike parts that are underneath the clutch master reservoir. Brake fluid is not good on the paint. I got mine a little full and got a couple drops on the lower left fairing.