2006 Venture electrical problem

[Flyinfool]

I appreciate all responses. The battery drain is .0677 from the positive lead to the positive terminal. From the terminal for the backup functions it is .0677. I have disconnected the audio fuse and there is 0.0000A across this. I have disconnected the CC fuse and there is 0.0000A across this. I will try more testing tomorrow, but as of now I can't find a source for the drain. Keep in mind that over the last five years there have been four batteries installed.

 

Thanks again,

 

 

I think you are mixing up tests or I am misunderstanding your post.

 

1. Pull all of the wires off of the positive battery terminal.

 

2. Connect one lead of your ammeter to the battery positive and connect the other to ALL of the wires that cam off of the positive battery terminal.

 

3. you should be seeing the 0.0677A that you measured before.

 

4. If there was more than one wire connected to the battery positive, then, while watching the meter, disconnect the wires that were grouped on the bat pos one by one. you will get to one of them that will cause the meter reading to drop.

 

5. The wire that caused to meter change is the one that has the draw.

 

6. Once you have identified the wire that is causing the draw. hook it back up to the meter, you should be seeing the draw on the meter once again.

 

7. IF that wire is for an added accessory, then you have your culprit.

 

8. IF that wire is the wire that feeds the bike electrical systems, then go through each fuse panel and pull out the fuses one by one watching the meter. When the meter drops you have identified the circuit that is causing the problem.

 

Let us know which fuse caused the meter to drop and we can then troubleshoot from there.

[MikeWa]

A parasitic drain of .0666 or .0670 is not significant enough to worry about. That is only 66 to 67 miliamp. Look elsewhere. The problem may be intermittent, in the battery or in the charging system.

Mike

[BradT]

Four battery's in five years ?

 

Not sure what you are using or the driving habits. Some batterys need to be charged properly from day one. If not the life could be shortened. Also if the bike is used for frequent short trips to the store or work, only a few miles away, the battery never gets charged properly.

 

It needs to be fully charged once in a while, if not by the end of the season it could be toast.

 

Brad

[Sylvester]

To all concerned,

 

There is only one lead to the positive side of the battery and it is stock original. I get the .0667A from the terminal to the lead and with a solid spark. Checking all fuses I get 0.000A except at the backup fuse and there it is .0667A. The battery is fully charge with a battery tender. The other batteries went dead after a week when not on the charger. After a couple of these discharges those batteries were beyond charging. The battery in it now came out of my RSMV and is a good battery and holds a charge well. I will continue my search and let you know what finally was the problem.

 

[Condor]

The battery is fully charge with a battery tender. The other batteries went dead after a week when not on the charger. After a couple of these discharges those batteries were beyond charging.

 

I know I'll get a lot of flack on this one, but a battery tender will not charge a battery. They will maintain a charge, but you need to invest in a quality smart charger unless you like buying batteries.

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/12-volt/marine-chargers/SC1500A.html

[bkuhr]

To all concerned,

 

There is only one lead to the positive side of the battery and it is stock original. I get the .0667A from the terminal to the lead and with a solid spark. Checking all fuses I get 0.000A except at the backup fuse and there it is .0667A. The battery is fully charge with a battery tender. The other batteries went dead after a week when not on the charger. After a couple of these discharges those batteries were beyond charging. The battery in it now came out of my RSMV and is a good battery and holds a charge well. I will continue my search and let you know what finally was the problem.

 

I might suggest you try to get an amp reading during operation to check for charging.

 

Most meters can not handle the current during starting, so I propose the following

Hook meter, set to highest amp scale, between + batt post, and + mc wire removed from this batt post. red meter lead to battery, and black meter lead to MC wire.

 

Then attach an auto jumper cable from batt + post to mc wire removed from this batt post same as meter, except use both red jumper cable leads on both ends(making a high current jumper wire that can be removed)

 

Now start bike, and after warmed up and idling smoothly, remove one side of the auto jumper cable. Now you can read your meter, during both idle and high rpm. scale down the meter range for best reading, but dont scale below a current reading (ie if reading 3a on 20a scale, dont scale down to a 200mA range.

 

The reading should be a + number to indicate current to the battery. A minus( - )# would indicate battery discharging.

 

After starting, should have a high + # for about 5 minutes than decreases as that battery recovers from the start. It should decrease to a point that supports all the loads of the bike, but remain a +#.

 

Just a suggestion

[Sylvester]

I know I'll get a lot of flack on this one, but a battery tender will not charge a battery. They will maintain a charge, but you need to invest in a quality smart charger unless you like buying batteries.

 

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/12-volt/marine-chargers/SC1500A.html

 

We charge the baterry on a battery charger. The tender is there to keep a full charge.

 

[Sylvester]

I might suggest you try to get an amp reading during operation to check for charging.

 

Most meters can not handle the current during starting, so I propose the following

Hook meter, set to highest amp scale, between + batt post, and + mc wire removed from this batt post. red meter lead to battery, and black meter lead to MC wire.

 

Then attach an auto jumper cable from batt + post to mc wire removed from this batt post same as meter, except use both red jumper cable leads on both ends(making a high current jumper wire that can be removed)

 

Now start bike, and after warmed up and idling smoothly, remove one side of the auto jumper cable. Now you can read your meter, during both idle and high rpm. scale down the meter range for best reading, but dont scale below a current reading (ie if reading 3a on 20a scale, dont scale down to a 200mA range.

 

The reading should be a + number to indicate current to the battery. A minus( - )# would indicate battery discharging.

 

After starting, should have a high + # for about 5 minutes than decreases as that battery recovers from the start. It should decrease to a point that supports all the loads of the bike, but remain a +#.

 

Just a suggestion

 

The alternator keeps the battery charged fine. And if he road it often it would be fine. But he has five motorcycles and likes to alternate. It is after it sits for a week without the tender that it goes to low to start. It may be a matter of him living with the situation as is.

 

[dfitzbiz]

I thought I would bring this thread back to life and share my experiences with a discharging battery. The old battery had discharged over about 2 months of no riding and would not accept a charge. I installed a new battery in mid-January.

 

 

 

The new battery discharged in less than 2 weeks. I removed the battery and recharged it to full charge.

 

 

Using the info this post I did a parasitic drain test and found a draw of 110 ma with the backup fuse in place and 0 drain with the backup fuse removed. I checked the draw as I removed the fuses mounted under the front right lower fairing. When I removed the Cruise Control fuse the draw dropped to 70 ma.

 

 

The “Cruise” switch, located below the cassette player, was in the spring loaded center position (ON?). When I moved the switch to the OFF position the draw dropped to 70 ma. I believe the switch is defective allowing the current to discharge through the Cruise switch and the Cruise Relay.

 

 

The next step, as time permits, is to remove the switch and test for proper operation. Cleaning and lubrication of the switch may be in order.

[Condor]

I thought I would bring this thread back to life and share my experiences with a discharging battery. The old battery had discharged over about 2 months of no riding and would not accept a charge. I installed a new battery in mid-January.

 

 

 

The new battery discharged in less than 2 weeks. I removed the battery and recharged it to full charge.

 

 

Using the info this post I did a parasitic drain test and found a draw of 110 ma with the backup fuse in place and 0 drain with the backup fuse removed. I checked the draw as I removed the fuses mounted under the front right lower fairing. When I removed the Cruise Control fuse the draw dropped to 70 ma.

 

 

The “Cruise” switch, located below the cassette player, was in the spring loaded center position (ON?). When I moved the switch to the OFF position the draw dropped to 70 ma. I believe the switch is defective allowing the current to discharge through the Cruise switch and the Cruise Relay.

 

 

The next step, as time permits, is to remove the switch and test for proper operation. Cleaning and lubrication of the switch may be in order.

 

 

110ma battery drain isn't enough to discharge a 250-300cca battery over 3 months. Reducing it to a 70ma draw won't make that much of a difference. Me thinks you still have a basttery/charger/rectifyer problem...??

Edited February 25, 2012 by Condor

[dfitzbiz]

Condor, thanks for the input. I believe that the charging system is charging OK because the battery returns to full charge after a little riding time. Can a problem with the charging system drain the battery? If so, what, and what is the troubleshooting procedure?

[Condor]

Condor, thanks for the input. I believe that the charging system is charging OK because the battery returns to full charge after a little riding time. Can a problem with the charging system drain the battery? If so, what, and what is the troubleshooting procedure?

 

You didn't mention how old, and what type battery you have?? An old battery can be charged to full, but can loose a charge very quickly just sitting. Best way to to check is take it to you local auto parts store and have them put a load test on it. I had a battery in my Suburban that checked out fine using the multimeter and would take a full charge, but it wouldn't hold a charge sitting overnight. Took it to my battery dealer and he got the same results.... until he put a load on it. It croaked. It had an internal short. Also what is the charge rate when it's in the bike?? Anything in the mid 13's or over 14.6, and you could have a funky rectifyer...

[dfitzbiz]

Condor, I replaced the battery in mid January with a new Deka battery from Skydoc.

[Condor]

Condor, I replaced the battery in mid January with a new Deka battery from Skydoc.

 

Try disconecting the Deka and see if it will still hold a charge for a month. If it goes down any at all, it's the battery. I know it's a long time, but that's the only way to check static discharge. Case in point. I murdererd my Deka in the '99 by running it on battery only to Cody.. the story's been posted on the board a couple of times.... I took it down to 8.9vdc on the multimeter. It did recharge in the motel room over night, and I did run it back to Sacramento, but I can't leave it sit for more than a month without it going dead. It used to be good after sitting for 3-4 months. I think it's screwed up, and I'll probably replace it come summer. BTW I do have an aftermarket rectifyer installed. It was the reason it died on the way to Cody.

[Rick Haywood]

Sylvester, Did you ever figure out what was wrong.

[dfitzbiz]

Rick,

I PM'ed Sylvester. He indicated that they took it to the Yamaha Dealer. Not sure of the problem but he mentioned memory.

[Rick Haywood]

OK Thanks, was just wondering in case in case it every happened to me

[dfitzbiz]

I had an opportunity to have my battery tested this afternoon. It did indeed have a bad cell. All is well with the Silver Streak. Thanks to all of the Ventureriders that lent me their troubleshooting expertise and experience, especially Sylvester and Condor. What a great site.