Prairiehammer Posted January 17, 2012 #26 Posted January 17, 2012 I had her up to 90 without realizing it. 10psi at the front tire 23 at the rearThis bike is so much fun it's FREAKY!I would suggest that it almost became DEADLY!
cabreco Posted January 17, 2012 #27 Posted January 17, 2012 So I somehow screwed up the CLASS. Before I started to solder the board I figured I would spray soapy water on the hoses to see a leak. I found it at the solenoid. I took the back end off the bike took apart the solenoidcleaned it up. Emptied the desicant. Nuked it for 2 minutes. It went from pink to blue. I reassembled it and fired it up if filled to 71 rear 17 front. I checked for leaks...absolutly none she held pressure for an hour. Now is when my issues began, I couldn't leave well enough alone I decreased the pressure to low, then tried to refill it only to get an E2 error. I confiirmed the solinoid open the compressor is working yet the system will not fill. I took it apart again, put it back. not the system has 0 air & it will not fill, I only get the e2 error. Am I missing something?? BTW am I right in that the rear shock line runs down the left & the front line runs down the right side of the bike?
mraf Posted January 18, 2012 #28 Posted January 18, 2012 If I had to guess I'd say you need to solder your class. They are notorious for not working properly when the solder joints need fixed. Hope this helps. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493 Mine did everything until I soldered the CLASS.
dingy Posted January 18, 2012 #29 Posted January 18, 2012 BTW am I right in that the rear shock line runs down the left & the front line runs down the right side of the bike? See attached PDF for front air line routing. It is on left side. Then, do this. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
cabreco Posted January 18, 2012 #30 Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks guys for the help. I will solder the unit tomorrow. BTW how much air actually comes out of that compressor? I don't get a blast, more like a lite puffing right up to the solenoid. Once it goes into the solenoid I get nothing but it does click
mraf Posted January 18, 2012 #31 Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks guys for the help. I will solder the unit tomorrow. BTW how much air actually comes out of that compressor? I don't get a blast, more like a lite puffing right up to the solenoid. Once it goes into the solenoid I get nothing but it does click :confused24:
cabreco Posted January 21, 2012 #32 Posted January 21, 2012 PROBLEM SOLVED! I took the lazy way out and replaced the entire unit. I was going to rebuild the compressor, but then I thought...well what if it's not that & it's the solenoid? Also, since my dryer filters were shot I figure I'd look around. I found the complete rear unit for $75. Bolted it in pressured right up. Afterwards I baked the silica gel to dry it up, put it back together. The dryer filters were perfect, and I'm NOT losing pressure! SO IT'S TIME TO RIDE... OH CRAP....it's raining HARD!!!
cabreco Posted January 21, 2012 #33 Posted January 21, 2012 I spoke too soon. The front fork are holding steady at 16psi The rears, unfortunately, are not. I am losing about 3 psi per hour. Don't get me wrong, it's better than 9.6 psi per hour...but still. If I recall correctly, I saw the rear shock has a 2 lines connected in? One from the shock to the center connecter the then center connection to the banjo fitting at the solenoid. right? Also does the rear airline screw into the shock or is it permanent? I'm hoping either the fittings are lose or the orings need replacing.
Chaharly Posted January 22, 2012 #34 Posted January 22, 2012 If I set it on medium front and back it bleeds out overnight. What is considered normal for these bikes? My 85 would hold air for a little while, but if they hold long enough to enjoy your ride why worry?
cabreco Posted January 22, 2012 #35 Posted January 22, 2012 My 85 would hold air for a little while, but if they hold long enough to enjoy your ride why worry? Noooo, I am too OCD for that. It must be perfect! http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u132/beedah2/Smiley/th_smiley-crazy.gif
dingy Posted January 22, 2012 #36 Posted January 22, 2012 I spoke too soon. The front fork are holding steady at 16psi The rears, unfortunately, are not. I am losing about 3 psi per hour. Don't get me wrong, it's better than 9.6 psi per hour...but still. If I recall correctly, I saw the rear shock has a 2 lines connected in? One from the shock to the center connecter the then center connection to the banjo fitting at the solenoid. right? Also does the rear airline screw into the shock or is it permanent? I'm hoping either the fittings are lose or the orings need replacing. The rear shock has one air line coming into it. The other connector going into shock is the damper adjustment cable, this is a mechanical cable, not an air line. I believe there also is a connection between 2 lines to the rear shock on the right frame rail. This is just a connection, not a tee, but it needs to be checked if you are having leaks. And make sure your wrenches are on the correct points of this connection to check, I twisted first one off by screwing this up. I don't recall if line screws in or is permanent, but I would guess it screws in judging from picture I attached. Gary
mraf Posted January 22, 2012 #37 Posted January 22, 2012 Have you soldered the class yet? I too had a slow leak when I bought my 86. I bought another pump, still leaked. Bought the plastic valve {new} thats inline one of the airlines,still leaked. Soldered class and leak gone. Don't know why and don't care to know.
cabreco Posted January 22, 2012 #38 Posted January 22, 2012 Well I sprayed the connection at the shock with soapy water, no leak the connection between the 2 lines at the frame, no leak cracked the fitting & re seated. let it sit fully pressurized for 2 hours dropped to 64 psi (lost 6psi in 2 hours) I took off the trunk AGAIN (mind you my strunk is mounter permanently) I sprayed the connection at the soleniod & damn if it didn;t bubble. I snugged it up again & it still bubbled. I purged the rear, removed the banjo connector & replaced the o-ring at the seat of the solenoid & reinstalled the banjo. I resprayed & I don't see any bubbles. I'll be damned if I re attach the trunk tonight. I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning to see if it loses any pressure. I THINK I got it this time (knock on wood)!
cabreco Posted January 22, 2012 #39 Posted January 22, 2012 Have you soldered the class yet? I too had a slow leak when I bought my 86. I bought another pump, still leaked. Bought the plastic valve {new} thats inline one of the airlines,still leaked. Soldered class and leak gone. Don't know why and don't care to know. CLASS is all resoldered. I took the time while the back end unit was being shipped to redo the circuit board coneection. I tell you it was A LOT easier than when I resoldered my Fender amp!!
cabreco Posted January 23, 2012 #40 Posted January 23, 2012 SUCCESS! (sort of) I replace the o-rings on the new solenoid as well. She is now holding air pressure steady. Of course there is a price for everything. I just noticed that the right fork tube left me a little dribble of fork oil. I just dropped the front pressure to 14psi to see if it helps! http://www.mortalkombatunited.com/images/smilies2/SmileySuicide.gif
cabreco Posted January 23, 2012 #41 Posted January 23, 2012 So overnight I held air pressure so that is all fixed. As I said, the fix came at a price. I now have a small drip of fork oil coming from under one tiny spot (pinhole) on the right fork dust cover. I am assuming I need to replace the seal. The thing that confuses me is why am I holding air pressure but leaking fork oil. Aren't the fork seals the same for both??
cabreco Posted January 23, 2012 #42 Posted January 23, 2012 You know I have got to admit that Joining this forum has beem the BEST $12 I've ever spent!!! I started looking around for any "quick fixes" for the fork seal since it's only a tiny dribble. I saw the temporary fix about lifting the dust cap & adding a tsp of ATF to the seal so it may swell and a few others. Then I came across this JEM: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57744&highlight=film+strip This worked like a charm! Once I lifted the dust cap I found a pool of oil under it. I sopped it up & noticed it slowly refilling. Once I got the corner of the film between the seal & fork tube, I worked it around the tube. I did see some tiny specs of white stuff on the film & stuck on the tube afterwards. I wiped it down, filled the fork air to 17psi & waited. It's been an hour & a half. I haven't lowered the dust cap yet to see if the groove fills with oil. It's still dry. Great idea DynoDon!!!!
dynodon Posted January 23, 2012 #43 Posted January 23, 2012 I got the idea from someone else on this list or another list, so I am just passing it along. Glad it worked, it doesn't in every case, but it did in my case and several others! I appreciate the kind words though.
Chaharly Posted January 25, 2012 #44 Posted January 25, 2012 Noooo, I am too OCD for that. It must be perfect! http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u132/beedah2/Smiley/th_smiley-crazy.gif I understand, im the same exact way.
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