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Posted

I have a '83 std with a few problems. I have nicknamed the bike Frankenstein due to a busted windscreen that now has some plexiglass stirps small bolts and fender washers holding it together.

 

Question 1: She slips in 2nd gear at wot, doesn't pop out, just slips. Is this the dreaded 2nd gear problem?

 

I have been planning on tearing her down this winter. Most of the plastics are in bad shape. From ebay I have managed to buy both side upper fairings and a trunk shipped for about 250. THe fairings need some repair but not much and much less than the current ones. Front forks need rebuilt, since they are apart might as well put some progressive springs in them.

 

WHen I let off the throttle at highway speeds she seems to want to nose dive a bit, is this normal? I am also having some front brake issues so I will go through the whole brake system. WHen 2 up riding i seem to bottom out the rear shock when I hit bumps, thinking progressive needs to update that as well.

 

I am also thinking of putting Vmax heads and cams on her. Got it apart might as well. RIght now when I start her up she pours fuel out of the overflow hose coming off the carbs. THinking I might need to do some carb work also.

 

Is there any way to rejet the carb? Just kind of looking for a few little performance nuggets. I also read a post that someone cut and tinted a windscreen so that is on my list of things to do.

 

And have her back on the street by March(my birthday).

Any thoughts, comments, or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Posted

If you are going to tear the front end apart may I suggest you also upgrade the forks to MK2 forks? This will enable you to use the better 4 piston calipers and also use R4 calipers. The MK1 brakes were anemic in stopping power to say the least. You will also have to swap out your rotors with MK2 rotors but they bolt right on to your rims. Add stainless steel brake lines and you will stop on a dime and give 8 cents change...

Posted

The dreaded second gear problem is jumping out of gear and into a false neutral. If yours is slipping (revs up, doesn't increase speed) you can do the clutch mod. I did this and have been happy with the results.

 

Nose dive is common when the stock fork springs are wore out. Progressive fork springs will solve the nose dive and seriously improve the ride. However, they will also raise the ground clearance. I used 10awg fork oil and filled to 6" from the top of the fork (fork collapsed).

 

The VR brakes are OK, not stellar. I did not like the linked action because the front brake handle offered very little stopping power only operating the right front rotor. I de-linked my brakes and really like the front brake improvement.

 

Two-up riding should not be bottoming with 50 psi in the rear shock. At least my VR is OK when carrying me and a passenger (400 lbs+).

 

Others have put Vmax heads on their VR. I only put Vmax cams and springs. You can re-jet the carbs. Parts are readily available. Knowledgeable mechanics are little harder to find. I am presently running 2 turns out on the low-speed circuit with Vmax needles and shims. It runs OK, a little rich at lower rpm.

 

I cut an old windscreen down to 1" above the instrument cluster and I really like the improved cooling for hot weather riding. The air flow is smooth and hits me about eye-level.

 

 

:080402gudl_prv:

GaryZ

 

 

I have a '83 std with a few problems. I have nicknamed the bike Frankenstein due to a busted windscreen that now has some plexiglass stirps small bolts and fender washers holding it together.

 

Question 1: She slips in 2nd gear at wot, doesn't pop out, just slips. Is this the dreaded 2nd gear problem?

 

I have been planning on tearing her down this winter. Most of the plastics are in bad shape. From ebay I have managed to buy both side upper fairings and a trunk shipped for about 250. THe fairings need some repair but not much and much less than the current ones. Front forks need rebuilt, since they are apart might as well put some progressive springs in them.

 

WHen I let off the throttle at highway speeds she seems to want to nose dive a bit, is this normal? I am also having some front brake issues so I will go through the whole brake system. WHen 2 up riding i seem to bottom out the rear shock when I hit bumps, thinking progressive needs to update that as well.

 

I am also thinking of putting Vmax heads and cams on her. Got it apart might as well. RIght now when I start her up she pours fuel out of the overflow hose coming off the carbs. THinking I might need to do some carb work also.

 

Is there any way to rejet the carb? Just kind of looking for a few little performance nuggets. I also read a post that someone cut and tinted a windscreen so that is on my list of things to do.

 

And have her back on the street by March(my birthday).

Any thoughts, comments, or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Posted

Before jumping into the clutch with reckless abandon, take a look at the expansion relief hole at the bottom of the clutch reserve. It may be plugged due to old fluid and crystals. This will cause the clutch to slip as the clutch fluid heats up, and is a cheap and simple fix.

Ditto on the MKII forks and the R1 calipers. Progressives.

Sea Foam the fuel first. See if that'll help out with the carbs. Looks like your float valve and bowl has crud in it.

If you already have the dampener setting at 4 you may need another rear shock. I'd check Ebasy for a used one. Unlike the 2ndGen's going bad the 1stGens shock don't have that problem, and one going bad is highly unusual.

Posted

Thanks for the help guys. I will start looking fo rhte new forks. Now that the wife I have house with a garage I will start tearing into her as soon as I get home(I am currently in ALaska working).

 

After reading several posts I believe that her full power potential has not been realized so I am looking forward to that.

 

Scoty

Posted
Before jumping into the clutch with reckless abandon, take a look at the expansion relief hole at the bottom of the clutch reserve. It may be plugged due to old fluid and crystals. This will cause the clutch to slip as the clutch fluid heats up, and is a cheap and simple fix.

 

Ditto on the MKII forks and the R1 calipers. Progressives.

 

Sea Foam the fuel first. See if that'll help out with the carbs. Looks like your float valve and bowl has crud in it.

 

If you already have the dampener setting at 4 you may need another rear shock. I'd check Ebasy for a used one. Unlike the 2ndGen's going bad the 1stGens shock don't have that problem, and one going bad is highly unusual.

 

Condor makes an excellent point about the clutch. His comment about the 1st Gen rear shock is interesting . . . I didn't know that tidbit of info.

 

I do not have MKII forks on my '85 and I don't have any real problems. The Beast handles very well for a 750 lb touring bike, even riding double. The de-linked stock brakes did not exhibit any fade in the Texas Hill Country. At this time I am not contemplating a fork change. I guess it's a cost thing.

Posted

I suspect that the slipping comment referring to 2nd gear actually is the worn thrust washer problem. It was noted as occurring in 2nd gear at WOT when a clutch problem would be occurring more in the higher gears. I suspect what is happening is 2nd gear is jumping and staying in gear and not actually going to a neutral condition.

There is an 87 transmission on ebay with 23 hours left that is at $9.99 with no bids. If you are going to fix the transmission, this is the best and cheapest way to do it. Shifting forks are also listed for $9.99 and I suggest getting them also.

RandyA

 

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-Yamaha-XVZ-1300-D-Venture-Transmission-QQ-/150642914174?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231304737e

Posted

The reason I suggested buying the forks also is because if the transmission is jumping in 2nd gear, usually the fork is bent some too. This guy may also combine parts and save on shipping. There is 3 hours left at this time.

RandyA

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