front fork draining

[Trader]

I'm doing progressives on my 88

 

I'm trying to drain the front forks.

 

I'm using a 19mm hex and reaching way up inside the bottom of the fork.

 

BUT....it feels REALLY TIGHT and I've turned it probably 20 turns and it doesn't feel like its getting any looser. Is the plug really that long?

 

Is it possible to be stripped but not get more free as I keep turning it?

Could it just be the seal that makes it feel so tight?

 

I'm almost afraid to try the 2nd fork if I've somehow screwed this one up.

 

Is there an alternative way to drain the fork.?

 

Man I wish I knew what I was doing!!!

It's scary stuff when you've never done this before!

Every nut and bolt is an adventure LOL

[mother]

there is a small phillips screw on the side of the lower slider that you take out to drain the forks.

the hex that you are attempting to take out is if you want to take the forks apart to replace the fork seals. then you would need to take the fork top caps off, remove the spring, then you need a special tool (you can make your own) to go down almost to the bottom of the inside of the fork. the tool goes into a socket, and you then take the hex key in the bottom of the fork (the one that you are trying to loosen) and then it can be unbolted and the bottom slider can be removed. do a search and check for fork seal replacement, some good articles here on the site. you can make your own tool, i did, the long one that goes down the fork tube.

hope this helps.

 

cheers, Scott

[Dragonslayer]

I'm doing progressives on my 88

 

I'm trying to drain the front forks.

 

I'm using a 19mm hex and reaching way up inside the bottom of the fork.

 

BUT....it feels REALLY TIGHT and I've turned it probably 20 turns and it doesn't feel like its getting any looser. Is the plug really that long?

 

Is it possible to be stripped but not get more free as I keep turning it?

Could it just be the seal that makes it feel so tight?

 

I'm almost afraid to try the 2nd fork if I've somehow screwed this one up.

 

Is there an alternative way to drain the fork.?

 

Man I wish I knew what I was doing!!!

It's scary stuff when you've never done this before!

Every nut and bolt is an adventure LOL

STOP... In the name of love before you break your heart.

 

1. The bolt your trying to loosen to drain fluid is the bolt that holds the outer slider to the inner pistons. They only need to removed if you are taking the tubes apart to replace the fork seals. If your fork seals are not leaking I would leave them alone. you do not need to to disassemble the tubes to replace the springs.

 

2. The small phillips head screw on the back side of the slider is used to drain fluid.

 

3. Once fluid drained. You will need a 30 mm socket to remove handle bars. Just lay them aside with everything attached. Loosen cinch bolts on top end of tubes and remove fork tube caps with 17mm allen wrench socket.

 

4. Once you have opened the tube caps you will see the spacers sitting on top of the old springs remove the spacers and old springs. Note the overall length of old springs and spacers together. The progressive springs will be a different length than the old springs therefore you will need to make new spacers out of 1" PVC pipe so that the overall length of new springs and spacers equals the overall length of old springs and spacers.

 

5. Replace drain screws and fill each tube with equal amounts of Fork oil. I believe the amount is to 5 1/2 inches from top of tube with froks completely compressed but verify this with other articles posted on the forum on this subject. Extend sliders and Drop old springs and spacers in tubes. It doesnt matter which end of springs are up or down.

 

6. Replace tube caps. To do so you will have to compress the springs to get the tube cap threads started. Note that the threads on the tube caps are very fine and soft aluminum. Getting the threads started while compressing the springs and not cross threading the tube caps can be challenging. You must be very careful not to damage the threads on the caps and inside of tube while doing so or your screwed. I've found the best way of doing this is with use of a 1/2" drive hand crank speed bar with the 17mm allen wrench socket attached. By sitting on the bike and using this tool you can applie steady downward pressure with your left hand on the top of the speed bar while directing the cap to start threads straight by slowly turning cap in place with the right hand cranking action.

 

7. Once the caps are back in place tighten cinch bolts and put the handle bars back on an button up.

 

The reason you keep turning the bottom bolt and it is not coming loose is because as you are turning the bolt the inner piston that it is threaded into is free turning inside the tube. You need to use an impact wrench to break the bolt loose from the inner piston.

 

Hope this helps. Good Luck

[Trader]

Thanks to both of you for your responses.

I hate to admit it when I make such stupid mistakes...but hey...maybe someone else can learn from my stupidity.

 

I was going from the exploded view in the manual and "assumed" that was the drain bolt.

 

Have I done any damage spinning that bolt or the works inside?

 

Like I said...if felt as if the whole works was turning.

 

:bang head:

[Yammer Dan]

REMOVE AIR!!! Before you open screw!!! Hard to clean all that stuf:whistling:. And have forks off ground!!

[Trader]

 

REMOVE AIR!!! Before you open screw!!! Hard to clean all that stuf:whistling:. And have forks off ground!!

 

 

 

Already have the caps off and the springs out....just gotta drain the oil and put the progressives in.

 

[Yammer Dan]

I haven't been in there in a while but once you drain I think you can see bolt you were turning? And you can check it to see if you loosened it. Have to make up tool I think. Someone will chip in here. I just can't remember without seeing it. But I would check it before I put things back togather.

[Snaggletooth]

The hex head you were trying to loosen is shown on the left side of pic #1. It goes into the damper at the bottom. It is recommended to use Blue LocTite during assmebly. So it would take a bit to break it loose.

 

The top of the damper is where you need to use a "special" tool to hold that in place while removing the hex bolt. Sorry no pics of the inside of the top but the pic of my tool should explain it. Used 5/8 All Thread with nuts LocTited on both ends. Cheap and simple.

 

As stated you will not need to disassemble that section but it helps to know whats in there.

 

Just make sure they at tight before putting it all back together. You should be fine even with turning them for while.

 

Mike