Keep or change

[latchkey]

I bought the habor freight 78inch tag along trailer, those that have one ever went from 8 inch to 12 inch tires? Do the 8 inch work well enough?

[SilvrT]

just an FYI ... my Lees-ure Lite Tent Trailer has 8 inch tires so it would seem they are ok for it, they should be ok for your HF. For what it's worth, I don't think it's the tire size that is as important as the bearings (size, capacity, etc)

[Squidley]

The 8" will work fine, I would suggest that you take the bearings out and replace them with a "Good" set of bearings like a Timken. Make sure you use a good quality wheel bearing grease and I always use bearing buddies on all my trailers no matter what size. Some of the HF have a grease zerk in the rear side of the hub. If yours does I would remove that one and tap it to the next size up and put a screw in zerk fitting as the factory ones will pull right out. I have made several trailers from the Hf frame kits and have never had an issue with them when I did the things I just mentioned

[XV1100SE]

I also have the tag along and based on recommendations greased the bearings and replaced the zerks. The one's they use are cheap and break off too easily.

As for wheel size... from what I've read as long as you aren't doing 85+mph for hours on end you are okay. I'd check occassionally to see if the bearings are getting warm but whether it is 8" or 12" it is still the same hub size... hence grease is more important.

[latchkey]

Thanks for help, CAN YOU JUST PLUG BACK GREASE FITTING AND USE BEARING BUDDYS TO GREASE WITH?

[Squidley]

Thanks for help, CAN YOU JUST PLUG BACK GREASE FITTING AND USE BEARING BUDDYS TO GREASE WITH?

 

 

Absolutely you can, when I use my bearing buddies to grease the axle, I jack the side up and spin the wheel as I am greasing it. I wouldn't worry too much about plugging the rear zerks as they should stay in fine as long as you dont put a grease gun on them. Most of them are just a push in type with barb serrations on them and not an actual threaded one.

[latchkey]

Thanks

[wes0778]

Most of them are just a push in type with barb serrations on them and not an actual threaded one.

 

Mine are threaded, but broke right off the first time I put a grease gun on them...

 

I did have to loosen the preload and repack the bearings.

 

With the preload set properly I have pulled mine several thousand miles at interstate speeds (which I never exceed... ) and the hubs and tires are never much warmer than ambient temp.

[latchkey]

what is that [loosen preload] not for sure what your talking about?

[Squidley]

what is that [loosen preload] not for sure what your talking about?

 

 

The tightness of the bearings from the factory. I have always disassembled the hub assemblies on the HF trailers and at a minimum regreased them witrh GOOD grease. When I reassemble the bearings I have always spun the wheel while tightening the axle nut until the wheel gets harder to spin as then I am sure that all the grease has been properly forced into the bearings. I then loosen the nuts till I can spin them by hand and tighten them back up with my fingers. I get them to a spot where I can put the cotter key or whatever type of locking device on the nut. Sometimes you might have to back it off slightly to get to that point or I may tighten it, but just slightly as I dont want to over tighten them. I have never had an issue with any of my wheel bearings besides one that was just a bad bearing and came apart on me.

[latchkey]

ok, understand now

[RedRider]

The tightness of the bearings from the factory. I have always disassembled the hub assemblies on the HF trailers and at a minimum regreased them witrh GOOD grease. When I reassemble the bearings I have always spun the wheel while tightening the axle nut until the wheel gets harder to spin as then I am sure that all the grease has been properly forced into the bearings. I then loosen the nuts till I can spin them by hand and tighten them back up with my fingers. I get them to a spot where I can put the cotter key or whatever type of locking device on the nut. Sometimes you might have to back it off slightly to get to that point or I may tighten it, but just slightly as I dont want to over tighten them. I have never had an issue with any of my wheel bearings besides one that was just a bad bearing and came apart on me.

 

Squidley has the procedure down. It is important to rotate the wheel while tightening the bearings, although it is not because of grease dissapation. The roller in a tapered roller bearing uses the back rib for alignment. As the roller moves around the bearing race, the taper of the roller squirts the roller against the back rib, aligning it. Without the wheel/bearing being turned when setting the preload, the rollers will likely be out of alignment and will ultimately create too much clearance. Spin to win.

 

The procedure as outlined in the Timken service manual basically says to tighten, while spinning, until you begin to feel drag. Then back the nut off to the nearest cotter pin location (at least 1/8 turn).

 

While I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, I did used to be a bearing engineer at Timken. (Many moons and experiences ago).

 

RR

[Squidley]

Cool Beans! I learned something new today...Thanks Jeff

[latchkey]

what size bearing buddys do they take. got the 1.98 and its lose as heck.

[saddlebum]

I have a 14 ft boat with a 25 hp mariner engine on it. The wheel are only 8" and quite often the boat gets packed with extra gear inc. putting a canoe on top. Boat trailers due to the fact that they are constantly in and out of the water tend to be hard on wheel bearings yet I have never had any problems. Because of the smaller overall wheel diameter the wheels spin much faster so make sure you use a good quality water resistant high speed grease. I actually pack mine with a high quality white grease.