Guest pitbullstew Posted August 4, 2011 #1 Posted August 4, 2011 Hello all, I have been looking at an 84 and I am not so sure I am going to do this. I read up before I looked at it and was really impressed at the features. Because the bike has sat for three yrs I was ready for the usual issues. A dead battery that would start and run the bike with a boost was okay. The red flashing 'Warning!' light caught my eye, what is that?! The 'PSI' on the ride control led was showing with no other information, is it working? The idle stabilized after warming up but was high at 1300 rpms, a snap of the throttle reduced rpm's marginaly. I thought a little lube and adjustment might have settled this but after reading the forum? Sounds like I am going waltzing through the intake system, and oh the prices of diaphrams! Is there a weber carb and manifold on the market for these instead? Would 'HAL' (2001 Space Odyessey) the computer mind ? The left side oil leak at the valve cover seems easy enough. What am I looking at for new tires and which ones are the absolute best rated for this bike? And of course at what cost? The 2nd gear modification has been done, but the shift lever was difficult to use with my size 11, I really had to toe reach down for it, is it adjustable? The lever is a bit small and takes too much concentration to shift with. I read the electrical schematic and was impressed at what you have here, but, hey? Its only a motorcycle after all? I dunno...I jst wann go for a putt, not become snarled in issues! We shall see.
twigg Posted August 4, 2011 #2 Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) Hello all, I have been looking at an 84 and I am not so sure I am going to do this. I read up before I looked at it and was really impressed at the features. Because the bike has sat for three yrs I was ready for the usual issues. A dead battery that would start and run the bike with a boost was okay. The red flashing 'Warning!' light caught my eye, what is that?! The 'PSI' on the ride control led was showing with no other information, is it working? The idle stabilized after warming up but was high at 1300 rpms, a snap of the throttle reduced rpm's marginaly. I thought a little lube and adjustment might have settled this but after reading the forum? Sounds like I am going waltzing through the intake system, and oh the prices of diaphrams! Is there a weber carb and manifold on the market for these instead? Would 'HAL' (2001 Space Odyessey) the computer mind ? The left side oil leak at the valve cover seems easy enough. What am I looking at for new tires and which ones are the absolute best rated for this bike? And of course at what cost? The 2nd gear modification has been done, but the shift lever was difficult to use with my size 11, I really had to toe reach down for it, is it adjustable? The lever is a bit small and takes too much concentration to shift with. I read the electrical schematic and was impressed at what you have here, but, hey? Its only a motorcycle after all? I dunno...I jst wann go for a putt, not become snarled in issues! We shall see. The flashing red light shows that a sensor is showing an error. Could be as simple as a blown bulb or the sidestand down, or low gas. The psi is normal. The system only works with the key is the first ACC position, then you get other readings and the buttons work. The idle speed sounds minor. It's idling and that's a great start. The carbs are easy to work on, all parts are available. The diaphragms might need replacing they can be had for $70 plus shipping, for a set of 4 The valve cover gaskets can be upgraded for about $20 each, do it when you check the valve clearances ... easy. Bunch of tyres available. I use Bridgestone Spitfire IIs, about $150 a set. Shift lever can be adjusted. You need to worry much more about the plastic than you do about the mechanicals. If the plastic is good, and all the major systems are working, and if the price is right .... You will end up with a very fine bike. ps .... If the bike has any significant extras then you will be very happy. For example ... a driver backrest can be $150 plus ... Driver floorboards can run $400 for "like new", various chrome racks and rear light bars are high dollar as is a towbar. If the bike has any of these you will be in good shape. pps .... This motorcycle is 27 years old. It will need work and it will require regular attention. If you don't want to do that then walk away and buy something new. If you want to ride, not tinker, then get yerself down to the dealers and buy something with a warranty. Not everyone wants to work on their bikes, and it's not fun if you don't want to do it. Edited August 4, 2011 by twigg
abnormalwon Posted August 4, 2011 #3 Posted August 4, 2011 I concur, but will add that if you are mechanically inclined at all AND the price is right these are one fine bike and generally very dependable. Plus you get the added benefit of having a whole slew of help right at your fingertips. Good luck and All the best
Guest pitbullstew Posted August 4, 2011 #4 Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) The flashing red warning light was no way to start a relationship, ha ha, or the PSI, and I did read in prior posts that there is an 'acc' functional difference, I am going to have to get to know more about this machine, this bike has the seat backrest and is really equiped right down to the road lamps, albeit one side is in-op, lol. The dated fuse panel was a blast from the past, who uses glass fuses anymore? We wiggled one to warm up the headlamps, such a pleasure to see em light up none the less, is there an upated fuse block that does away with these glass fuses? Do I understand that the bike will shut down if dumped over? Does it require some sort of re-set? The price is right, even if I spend more on the items mentioned, the diaphrams at the price you quote is better than the $299 I recall seeing some where else. I did not open the bags to look for any manuals, I see they are available on Amazon. Okay, that answers the two out of three issues, that leaves the carbs, and you are so right, it did run and idle, even though I only drove it hundred feet or so to get a feel for the running gear which seemed fine, clutch, etc, and oh yes brakes! The volt guage showed a good charge, oil press was good, and it did not overheat even though I dared it to do so by talking while it was at idle. The smoke from the valve cover leaking on the exhaust was amusing, as I dropped to my knees looking underneath like a true biker dude! Stay tuned....pun intended here Edited August 4, 2011 by pitbullstew typo
twigg Posted August 4, 2011 #5 Posted August 4, 2011 Manuals can be downloaded from here for subscribers. They also appear on eBay from time to time. I just bought the Yamaha Factory Workshop Manual fro $10, in excellent condition. I have seen them sell for up to $140. You have to be patient.
Snaggletooth Posted August 4, 2011 #6 Posted August 4, 2011 Welcome to the site. You came to the right place for info. I bought my '84 in '07 as a garage find after 9 years of being stored. It took a bit to get her back together and running right and yep, I spent some bucks getting there. But in the end the Venture is a worthwhile investment if the bike has a decent history. These folks here can walk you through about any problem these bikes can throw at ya. They got me up and running and I'm at the point with the bike where I would jump on it and not worry a bit about taking off for a few days. If the 2nd gear problem has been corrected that is one of the more costly issues with the bike. That's a plus. When looking into tires you will see a lot of opinions. The one thing I look for is load rating. These bikes are heavy and then adding a rider and passenger can add up quick. I'm a fan of the Avon Venoms. I'm on my second set and will buy them again. Great wear, over 18,000 miles on the last set and all weather traction is great. Best wet weather tire I've owned. Some of the things you will proabaly want to address early on is heavier battery cables, an AGM battery, the upgrade fuse panel is a must, (PM skydoc_17 on that. He sells a nice kit), and a few doses of Sea Foam to treat the fuel system to clean it out. Hang around, we will be here to help. Mike
Trader Posted August 4, 2011 #7 Posted August 4, 2011 skydoc (a member here) sells a fuse block upgrade...check out the Member vendor's seciton of the classifieds.
Venturous Randy Posted August 5, 2011 #8 Posted August 5, 2011 One thing that also needs to be mentioned is when you get it running good, they can almost be scary fast. These things ran the quarter mile in the mid 12's and many of them still run about that good. In fact, there have been some ride around on three cylinders and not even realize it. When you get it running good, don't worry about running up to the redline. These motors seem to love it a lot better than being lugged around. RandyA
Jayceesfolly Posted August 5, 2011 #9 Posted August 5, 2011 I own two VR's and I love them. They take some work because of their age, but worth every penny. I have no qualms about hopping on my bike and going cross country. But, the best thing about this forum is the people here. They are the best!!! I couldn't ask for more help or parts or encouragement from the great people on this Forum. Everyone here has been so helpful to me with all my problems. I can't say enough good things about the people on this forum. As everyone here says: It's the best $12 you will ever spend".!! Jim
Guest pitbullstew Posted August 5, 2011 #10 Posted August 5, 2011 Laurie and Joe As much as I want to buy this bike, because at every turn and twist thus far I have been unable to locate the basic parts I need, for instance the battery must have some sort of port that a sensor is inserted into to alert the rider of low acid, this battery seems to not be available. That sensor and port set off signals and warnings that distract the computer. The rear tire is a 140-90-18, and as hard as I have looked that tire may not be available any longer. I am not now, or have I ever been, one to fool around with factory tire sizes as a trade off. At the Venture.com forum, there are pages and pages and even more pages of discussions of problems with this make and model that, although are common and fixable, are numerous and manifold and frankly, this should not be rocket surgery? It is a motorcycle after all, and when wire connection solders fail a person could get killed, when warning lights and sensors illuminate because of poor connections or simple glitches or relays fail a rider is left at the side of the road or worse? When innovative anti dive systems, and other safety related items are not 99.999% reliable? One should take warning. In my life time I have had the one friend killed because of a mechanical failure leaving his wife and newborn fatherless, I have seen others hurt badly as chains have broken, and engines have disintegrated locking up rear wheels throwing down a rider at speed. Being risk averse, I am not going to let these happen to me. I trust that you understand. I am very sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused you. Stewart
twigg Posted August 5, 2011 #11 Posted August 5, 2011 Batteries with the port for the sensor are available in Walmart for less than $50. Tires from Motorcycle Superstore for around $150 a set ... They are a common size, both of them. Solder joints losing their grip are neither difficult to fix, nor do they cause any safety issues. They are on circuit boards that have been on a motorcycle for 25 years, what do you expect? The faults these bikes have are small in number, and generally minor in nature. Even the 2nd gear issue is easily fixed. A few early frames cracked, those can be avoided. This Forum is full of very good advice by experts who willingly give of their time and knowledge with routine maintenance and repairs to older machinery. Whether you buy or not is a matter for you entirely, but you really don't get to type such mis-information and have it go completely unchallenged. Properly maintained and cared for, these bikes are as capable now as they were when new and if you can show me any machine that is 99.999% reliable, then please do, and I'll buy it. Just sayin' peace.
twigg Posted August 5, 2011 #12 Posted August 5, 2011 So I re-read that and it sounds a bit harsher than I intended Here is the thing .... The newest of the 1st Gen VRs is 1993. In common with all older vehicles, they require maintaining, and they often require that you "undo" years of neglect (ask me how I know). If you are up for that, then you will be rewarded with a very fine motorcycle, but it's not for everyone. Plenty of folk here go to a Dealer and slap down a wad of cash, or sign a loan agreement. That is a perfectly valid option. You will still have issues though, ask the 2nd Gen owners. From your post it does sound like you might not have the mechanical background that would help you understand the needs of the older bikes, and allow you to assess the risks. So go buy a new one .... they are just as much fun
sgn Posted August 5, 2011 #13 Posted August 5, 2011 Laurie and Joe As much as I want to buy this bike, because at every turn and twist thus far I have been unable to locate the basic parts I need, for instance the battery must have some sort of port that a sensor is inserted into to alert the rider of low acid, this battery seems to not be available. That sensor and port set off signals and warnings that distract the computer. The rear tire is a 140-90-18, and as hard as I have looked that tire may not be available any longer. I am not now, or have I ever been, one to fool around with factory tire sizes as a trade off. At the Venture.com forum, there are pages and pages and even more pages of discussions of problems with this make and model that, although are common and fixable, are numerous and manifold and frankly, this should not be rocket surgery? It is a motorcycle after all, and when wire connection solders fail a person could get killed, when warning lights and sensors illuminate because of poor connections or simple glitches or relays fail a rider is left at the side of the road or worse? When innovative anti dive systems, and other safety related items are not 99.999% reliable? One should take warning. In my life time I have had the one friend killed because of a mechanical failure leaving his wife and newborn fatherless, I have seen others hurt badly as chains have broken, and engines have disintegrated locking up rear wheels throwing down a rider at speed. Being risk averse, I am not going to let these happen to me. I trust that you understand. I am very sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused you. Stewart Pitbullstew (Stewart), Thank you for stopping in to talk with us and you are always welcome here no matter what or if you ride. A bike that was manufactured in 1984 is going to be dated (glass fuses) and need some work. Parts are out there, the common stuff like tires are avaiable from many sources. This 84 you are looking at may not be the bike for you and that is a okay. My 83 was a bucket of bolts and two wheels when i got it. Through the folks in this forum not only have I learned what I needed to to bring it back to life, I have gained many friends. My reason for picking my 83 seems to be at odds with what you are looking for. I WANTED a bike I could get my hands on, working or just "tinkering with my Blondie" is part of the joy of ownership. IF you want a bike that you do not want to work on then buy something much newer, ride for a few years and trade. But I will tell you this, when people see my bike and comment they are surprised it is nearly 30 years old and when the young guy that lives down the road rides by the house on his crotch rocket he always sounds his horn, not to say hello to me, but to remember that a 55 year old man on a 30 year old bike left him in a cloud of dust wondering what happened. Again thanks for coming by, kick you shoes off and enjoy. When you get your motorcycle post some pictures so all can enjoy!
twigg Posted August 5, 2011 #14 Posted August 5, 2011 Yours had two wheels? You were spoiled!! :rotf:
Guest pitbullstew Posted August 5, 2011 #15 Posted August 5, 2011 Yes it is an older machine, and I was ready for what the entails to a point. I do have a mechanical background, and my naval air mechanic instructor used to admonish us in class that, at 25,000 feet and 450 knots, when manifold pressure drops and power is lost, you just don't pull over and check under the hood. Motorcycles are a bit like that too, at highway speed, when things go wrong, they can get worse. You good folks have THE BEST forum I have ever come across, the electrical schematics are fantastic, the hands on real life experiences you share are worth their weight in gold to me. So much so, that after scanning hours and hours of comments here, I have to do what is right for me.
Venturous Randy Posted August 5, 2011 #16 Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) Stuart, not to be unfriendly, but I think you are making the right decision in not buying an older bike. There are some people, and I have known them personally, that just don't need to be on a bike like this. First of all, they will never enjoy it and will never trust it. I personally have had my 83 for almost 16 years and I have put over 125,000 miles on it and I love it. My son just got an 86 and we are currently working the bugs out of it and it too is going to be a great bike. We wish you well and you are welcome to stop in any time. RandyA Edited August 5, 2011 by Venturous Randy
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