Electrical problem, but first...

[darthandy]

Replaced a burned out passing lamp on my RSV and now both lamps are not working. Put a voltmeter to the lamp connections and there is nothing so it must be a fuse (I hope!!!). Now the fun part. It looks like a dealer installation, but all other systems (At least those I can check.) are working. I thought it might be connected through the fuse for the accessory terminal under the seat so I tried to check that fuse. And here is where I have a problem. The owner's manual says to remove the upper and lower screws at the front of the right side cowling and "pull outwards" on the bottom to remove the cowling. However...mine seemed stuck and when I looked closely, it seemed that the screw on the housing at the back of the cowling was also holding the cowling. As well, the quick connect fastener on the lower part of the cowling is at the bottom and doesn't look like the push on type. It looks like the type that you have to push or screw in at the center to get it to release. Have I badly misread the instructions or are things not quite as described in the manual?

[V7Goose]

Your passing lights are on their own in-line fuse inside the fairing (if they are done like Yamahaha specifies in the instructions). They absolutely are not connected to either of the accessory fuses in the lower cowling.

 

But you still need to know how to remove those cowlings. You must first remove the REAR screw, about in the middle and towards the outside of the plastic cover below the air filter. You take that one out first so there is no risk of breaking the mounting point after everything else is loose. Next, take out the plastic quick-rivet under the center of the two cowlings. This looks like a Philips head screw, but you only turn it 1/4 turn and then pull it part way out with your fingernails or a little screwdriver, then the whole things comes out.

 

Now remove the two Allen-head screws from the front of the cowling. Finally, grasp the bottom center near where that plastic quick-rivet was and pull straight forward to dislodge the lug from the rubber grommet holding it in place. The fuse box is behind the right cowling, but if you want to remove the left cowling for any reason, you must remove the right one first.

Goose

[Sylvester]

Is it possible, remotely, that some previous person in stalled a relay? Therefore it could be the relay or a fuse before the relay. The relay would be mounted in the front fairing also, I would expect and the fuse close by.

 

[darthandy]

Thanks , Goose, that sounds a lot more like what I was looking at. Thanks also for the info on the inline fuse. I guess I'll have to pull off the inside of the fairing. I wonder if the instructions for that are as badly screwed up as those for the cowling?

 

Sylvester, I have no idea. I guess I'll find out when I pull apart the fairing.

[V7Goose]

Thanks , Goose, that sounds a lot more like what I was looking at. Thanks also for the info on the inline fuse. I guess I'll have to pull off the inside of the fairing. I wonder if the instructions for that are as badly screwed up as those for the cowling?

You do not pull anything off the inside except the screws. You pull off the outside of the fairing. We call it splitting the fairing.

 

Start by removing the eight Allen-head screws behind the fairing (four on each side). Now you need to remove the chrome strip under the windshield, and this can be a little tricky until you learn the procedure - most people break some of the tabs inside the chrome strip trying to get it off. To avoid that, you need to understand that there is a wide tab with a lip on it that faces BACKWARDS right in the center of the bottom edge, so you cannot get that lip to disengage easily. The trick is to lift straight up on the outside ends of the strip while gently flexing the strip by pushing the ends slightly towards the center. This causes the center bottom to spring slightly forward and the strip comes right off with an UP movement, not by pulling it forward.

 

Next, remove the screws securing the windshield. And if your passing light bar is still in place (and does not use a fat aluminum mounting bracket to move it down and forward), you will need to remove it before you can split the fairing (you need about 1" free space between the back of the passing lights and the fairing to get it off). If it is mounted with the stock bolts, you will need a ball-end Allen wrench to get them out. Finally, you need to remove the single Allen-head bolt directly below the headlight lens. At this point, the outside of the fairing will just come off by pulling it straight forward.

Goose

[darthandy]

Thanks again Goose but I'm afraid I made you do a lot of typing unnecessarily. I just did a search of the forum and found a really nice write up by Freebird with pictures (So useful for slow types like me!) and have saved the link to my favorites. One wonders why someone didn't arrange to have the fuse wired up near an easier to get at place...or were they hoping to generate some nice labour charges at a later time?

 

Andy

[REDRIDER52]

when I wired all lights that I added put fuses under seat by battery easy access if they blow

[darthandy]

Just a quick update before I head back to the garage to finish up. I split the fairing this afternoon before heading out to the Canalfest days in Port Colborne...lots of food, beer and tall ships! Everything went quite smoothly (Thanks for the hints and tips, everyone) and lo and behold, there was the fuse in perfect condition!?!?! Checked the wiring and found that the person who had installed the lights used one of those "guillotine" type connectors to tap into a power wire .. you know, those blue things with a notched blade in them...you push two wires down into them and then squeeze them closed. Turned on the ignition and the lights were on...played with the connector and the lights went out and back on, etc. So...I pulled the connector off and trashed it and then pulled out my soldering iron some wire and some real connectors. While I was at it, I decided to replace the glass fuse holder with a weather proof holder that uses a blade type auto fuse. Now if I can just make out the rating on the existing glass fuse so that I can put in the right blade type fuse...damn, those things are hard to make out! I added some extra wire to allow the fuse holder to be moved about 4 inches to a point near the headlight adjustment knob. Now if I have to replace that fuse, I'll just have to turn the bars a bit to the right, reach in, snap the top off the holder and change the fuse. Nothing else to remove!! I'm going out to the garage in a few minutes to finish up and of course make sure the fuse holder won't get pinched by anything when moving the bars. I'll then zip tie it in place and then I can put it all back together. Oh yeah...while I was at it, I bought some H7616 halogen lights to replace the existing passing light bulbs. Had to get a replacement for the burned out one anyway, so I figured I might as well upgrade.

 

Thanks again to everyone for the help. Now to order an HID headlight and a new windshield. I've been reading the threads on the subject of windshields and I'm I'm not sure if it's helping or not. Lots of different opinions on the subject...but, that's for a new thread. Off I go!

 

Andy