Squidley Posted July 19, 2011 #26 Posted July 19, 2011 I have pulled hundreeds of rear wheels off both 1st and 2nd gens, NEVER have I seen a bent axle. Sorry to say but your trust in this mechanic might not be a good thing. They are supposed to be strait, not bent. If you had or have a dragging issue I would make sure that the axle spacer is in the right spot and the whole assembly was installed properly
Guest Posted July 20, 2011 #27 Posted July 20, 2011 Found this at Pinwall cycle. Wonder if its a match for the bent axle???? http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/m/mU17eyypWZ5NenCcgGx9cHw/140.jpg Yamaha Royal Star Tour Touring 1300 RIGHT FORK TUBEhttp://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.gif http://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/bin_15x54.gif$19.95Time left:21d 6h 59m
Spyder Posted July 20, 2011 Author #28 Posted July 20, 2011 Maybe that could still be used if was just installed and rotated it to the sweet spot, then marked it for future reference
etcswjoe Posted July 20, 2011 #29 Posted July 20, 2011 Found this at Pinwall cycle. Wonder if its a match for the bent axle???? http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/m/mU17eyypWZ5NenCcgGx9cHw/140.jpg Yamaha Royal Star Tour Touring 1300 RIGHT FORK TUBEhttp://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.gif http://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/bin_15x54.gif$19.95Time left:21d 6h 59m Why would anyone need to buy a bent fork tube?
Stache Posted July 20, 2011 #30 Posted July 20, 2011 Why would anyone need to buy a bent fork tube? If they already had one bent to the same degree, at least the steering would line up.... :stirthepot:
ediddy Posted July 20, 2011 #31 Posted July 20, 2011 A factory rep with yamaha came to my dealership to inspect my bike. He said never, ever use anything to drive the axle in. When aligned properly the axle will slip right in. He made the joke that with Harleys you might have to use a mallet but never use anything on a venture. He also stated there were certain sequences to use when putting the rear end back together and showed that to the mechanic.
Spyder Posted July 27, 2011 Author #32 Posted July 27, 2011 Got the bike back Saturday and they didn't have tome to look at the brakes because I was pressuring them to get it back to me by the end of the day. I'm leaving on the 30th and needed to do some other things to it myself. Jacked it up at home and the brakes were not dragging but I am anal about this stuff so I had to check it out myself. First I loosened the axle nut and pinch bolt and used an Allen wrench to rotate the axle. I could see the rotor moving! Next, I removed the rear wheel and aligned the differential as per the factory manual. After inserting the axle without the wheel I positioned an indicator in the middle and rotated the axle again. I found that the indicator moved about .022" as I rotated the axle. I slid the axle in thru the pinch bolt section of the frame and rotated it until is aligned best with the bore. Then I marked it for reference. After assembling the wheel with the axle installed (Did NOT need to use force to insert the axle) I Paced the indicator on the face of the rotor at the outer edge. When I rotated the axle the indicator moved about .022". I positioned the axle as I had marked it previously and tightened everything per the proper sequence. I next installed a new set of pads and all was good to go. When I get back from the Grand Canyon I'll probably be do for another rear tire. The next time I have it apart I'll bring the axle to work and have it straightened. Not trying to start any arguments on this. Just explaining what I found. Thanks for all your input. That's why I respect everyone on this site. Dave
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