Spyder Posted July 18, 2011 #1 Posted July 18, 2011 I took my 06 RSV to have the rear shock inspected a couple of weeks ago just before the warranty ran out. I mentioned to the mechanic (who I have come to trust over the years) that after I installed my rear wheel with new tire mounted it seemed like the rear brakes were dragging but I hadn't really paid any attention to it before removing the rear wheel. This first thing he asked me was if I had marked the axle location (referring to rotation) before removing it. I said no I never do. He said that he had a customer one time that complained about a noise after having a tire installed somewhere else out of state. He knows about the pins needing greased, etc. and noticed that the axle was bent so he ordered a new one from Yamaha. When the new one came in it was bent also. So he called Yamaha and they said "Yes, that's the way they are. You need to install the axle and rotate it noting when the wheel spins free or tight and then tighten it at the best place." The mechanic said that did indeed fix the problem and he now always checks and then marks any axle he does in relation to the swingarm so he doesn't have to check it the next time he works on it. I have an appointment this week to have the rear shock replaced and I told him that I want the dragging brakes checked. I intend to ask him what he means by "bent" because we have a machine at work that we use to straigten precision ballscrews for our positioners and I could have it straightened. Has anyone else ever heard of this condition? I didn't think I had ever seen a post about it.
RandyR Posted July 18, 2011 #2 Posted July 18, 2011 never heard this before. And have never done anything like the technique refered to reinstall the axle. Its not in the maintenance guide. Sounds strange to me.
etcswjoe Posted July 18, 2011 #3 Posted July 18, 2011 I just replaced my rear wheel and my axle appears to be straight and true. Interested to see what others have to say.
SilvrT Posted July 18, 2011 #4 Posted July 18, 2011 I've never heard of this either. Been here on this site for almost 5 years and this is the first time I've heard about it. Had an '85 VR, and '87 VR and now the '06 ... pulled the axle more times than I can count ... don't recall any issues with the axle ... generally when I remove it, I will turn it while pushing it from the opposite side with a long punch or something... if it was bent, I would think I'd feel it.
SilvrT Posted July 18, 2011 #5 Posted July 18, 2011 On another note, when you clean and grease the hub pins, you are supposed to insert them, check for ease, rotate, insert, check for ease, etc until you find where they slide in the easiest. Is it possible there's confusion here and this is what is really meant?
Spyder Posted July 18, 2011 Author #6 Posted July 18, 2011 I am skeptical as well. That's why I want to find out "how bent." Could he actually see it or did he measure it and how? Either way I hope it's not my caliper hanging up because they may not have time to get a new seal kit and rebuild it before I leave for the Grand Canyon.
Spyder Posted July 18, 2011 Author #7 Posted July 18, 2011 I don't think he meant the hub pins becuase I told him I knew about that and I have checked for best fit and marked that. But now that you mention it I will question him again.
SilvrT Posted July 18, 2011 #8 Posted July 18, 2011 I am skeptical as well. That's why I want to find out "how bent." Could he actually see it or did he measure it and how? Either way I hope it's not my caliper hanging up because they may not have time to get a new seal kit and rebuild it before I leave for the Grand Canyon. Is it possible you didn't put the washer in properly? If I recall correctly, it should go between the swingarm and the caliper bracket....
TEW47 Posted July 18, 2011 #9 Posted July 18, 2011 I don't know if my axle is bent or not, but I have to use a 1/2" extension with a big hammer to drive the axle out, and a big leather mallet to drive it in. tew47
SilvrT Posted July 18, 2011 #10 Posted July 18, 2011 I don't know if my axle is bent or not, but I have to use a 1/2" extension with a big hammer to drive the axle out, and a big leather mallet to drive it in. tew47 Loosen the 4 bolts that hold the pumpkin on. It's possible you might need to shim that.
Eck Posted July 18, 2011 #11 Posted July 18, 2011 I would learn not to trust this mechanic.. If you loosen the (4) acorn nuts on drive shaft at rear hub, and install ONLY the rear axel,,and slowly tighten the acorn nuts in a pattern and rotate the axel as you do this.Once all (4) acorn nuts are tightened to spec, the axel should continue to turn freely.. I always did this before I installed the rear wheel. You can find this tech article in the tech library on the site here too. If the axel is bent you can not do this..
allwx Posted July 18, 2011 #12 Posted July 18, 2011 I've heard about it. Back in 97 I bought a 97 RSTD that came out of the box with a howling final drive. The dealer called Yam and got on the list for the tech rep. He arrived a couple weeks later with a new final drive for me. The tech rep spent about 2 hours with me. He replaced the final while I stood right next to him in the dealer shop. When he got to the part where the wheel is installed into the final, he made a point to tell me about "indexing the final drive." He showed me a tech bulletin from Yam that details the procedure. All dealers should be aware of this, and be able to show you the bulletin. Right now I can't recall all the details of the procedure, so I'd recommend you locate this bulletin, or speak to someone who is familiar with the details of it. As stated above, it involves rotating the axle such that the wheel spins most freely. Once the spot on the axle is located, mark the axle and the final so that in future you can get it back there quickly. This is probably a result of manufacturing tolerances. When I got my 07 Venture, the rear end was quite noisy. While riding, the noise couldn't be heard, but when pushing it with motor off, especially backing up, I got crunching and grinding noises from the rear end. I was able to eliminate these crunching noises by finessing the axle in this way. Once located, I marked the position, and have always returned the axle to this position after wheel removal, and have had a nice, quiet running rear end ever since. Unfortunately, Yam doesn't spend much time setting these bikes up at the factory.
Spyder Posted July 18, 2011 Author #13 Posted July 18, 2011 I just checked the washer and it is correct. I don't have time to work on it tonight and have to drop it off tomorrow after work. I'm going to let them check it out on Wednesday and see what happens. I always do my own work unless it's warranty work. I'll keep you all posted and as always, thanks for any advice.
SilvrT Posted July 18, 2011 #14 Posted July 18, 2011 Considering what allwx stated, I'm wondering why the axle wasn't marked from factory to begin with?
SilvrT Posted July 18, 2011 #15 Posted July 18, 2011 Also considering what allwx stated, it would seem to me that if you put a bent axle into the wheel, what difference would it make where the bend was insofar as how freely the wheel turns .... ????
Kirby Posted July 18, 2011 #16 Posted July 18, 2011 I've never heard of any company that uses an axle through a wheel, especially with bearings in it, to allow a bent axle to be used. This, in my opinion, is just a bunch of bull!! It's too easy to get axles made straight in the first place. If I remember right, that's one of the things you look for when removing and replacing any axle through a wheel. In my opinion, someone's blowing smoke!!!
allwx Posted July 18, 2011 #17 Posted July 18, 2011 I'm not so sure it has to do with an actual "bent" axle. It is more to do with the usual tolerances of manufacturing. If they had to make these things to Space Shuttle tolerances they'd cost more than we could pay. I agree that Yam spends too little on setting these bikes up at the factory. It took me a good month to get my 07 Venture set up right. I knew it wouldn't do me any good to ask the dealer shop to do it for me. Not that they aren't good folks, but they really don't have the time or knowledge to do this sort of detail work on a bike they only sell two or three of a year.
Kirby Posted July 18, 2011 #18 Posted July 18, 2011 If it's an alignment problem, that's different, but if the axle's bent, then it needs to be straightened, or replaced!
Eck Posted July 18, 2011 #19 Posted July 18, 2011 The axel does not come from Yamaha BENT.. There is no indexing onthe rear axel of a 2nd gen, (nor on 1st Gens that I am aware of). There is only an alignment procedure of which I already explained in a previous post.
Kirby Posted July 18, 2011 #20 Posted July 18, 2011 The axel does not come from Yamaha BENT.. There is no indexing onthe rear axel of a 2nd gen, (nor on 1st Gens that I am aware of). There is only an alignment procedure of which I already explained in a previous post. :sign yeah that:
dingy Posted July 19, 2011 #21 Posted July 19, 2011 I have a 12 Technical Bulletins and do not see any thing about the bent shaft. Probably more, but this is all I have located. Think they are all 1st gen related. Gary
CaptainJoe Posted July 19, 2011 #22 Posted July 19, 2011 "I have a 12 Technical Bulletins and do not see any thing about the bent shaft. Probably more, but this is all I have located. Think they are all 1st gen related. Gary " Glad you said that and not me...LOL
Guest Posted July 19, 2011 #23 Posted July 19, 2011 I took my 06 RSV to have the rear shock inspected a couple of weeks ago just before the warranty ran out. I mentioned to the mechanic (who I have come to trust over the years) that after I installed my rear wheel with new tire mounted it seemed like the rear brakes were dragging but I hadn't really paid any attention to it before removing the rear wheel. Has anyone else ever heard of this condition? I didn't think I had ever seen a post about it. A few questions to narrow things down: When you replaced the rear tire did you by chance also grease the driveshaft spline as well? A misaligned final drive could make it feel like its dragging. It should be aligned the way Eck described before mounting the wheel back on. If that is the case there is a fairly easy fix. Get the bike up in the air, remove the left saddlebag, slightly loosen all 4 final drive bolts then gently tap the final drive with a rubber mallet to "jog" it into position. Retighten the final drive bolts and you should be good to go. How about the rear caliper? Its possible its hanging up and needs to be rebuilt/replaced. Is the fluid nice and clear or does it look like Guinnes stout? How about the brake pads themselves. How many miles on the bike? And I have never ever heard of an axle being bent (manufactured that way) from the factory. And after having my rear wheel off at least 10 times I have never, ever aligned the axle with an index mark. If your mechanic still insists that its the bent axle and its still under warranty, make them make it right then.
Spyder Posted July 19, 2011 Author #24 Posted July 19, 2011 Ruffy, I was going to do the spines but did not have time. I've had the rear wheel off many times and have never loosened the final drive bolts and never before and never had to align the axle. My very first thought was that the caliper needed rebuilt. That's how the conversation started with the mechanic in the first place. Either way it would be covered under warranty and that's why I wanted them to look at it first. Normally I would have just taken it all apart and redone it myself. Dropping it off tonight so we'll see what happens. Thanks for the reply.
TEW47 Posted July 19, 2011 #25 Posted July 19, 2011 The last time I had the tire off the bike I stuck the axle in, the center of the axle was at the rear edge of the hole in the rear hub. At least 1/4" off. tew47
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