Flanders Upgrade Complete - Couple Questions

[lshafer]

About 10 days ago I posted about tingling fingers and my plan to upgrade to Flanders bars and Kuryakyn ISO grips. Well, I've since completed that upgrade with the help of Usnmustang's wonderful pictoral write-up/how to. (Very informative and easy to follow - THANK YOU usnmustang, where ever you are .)

 

Anyway, I've posted some pics for everyone to see the before and after. I think it looks really nice. I didn't put the stock weights back on because I'm not too good at fabrication but I did order the Kuryaky Bullet end weights to complete the look and get it back to real close. I didn't notice any additional vibration without the weight on (none at all as a matter of fact - VERY smooth). Like I said though, I'll put the new ends on if for no other reason than for a place to rest my hand when the cruise is on.

 

You'll see in the pictures I still need to do something with the wiring. I'll probably get some black zip-ties which I think I can make look good. (I'm open to suggestions here so if anyone has a better idea, I'm all ears...)

 

Here are the two questions I have after the install:

 

1. My new throttle grip doesn't want to snap back like it should. I've adjusted the cables every way I can think of (tighten, loosen and everywhere in between) and the throttle seems to move smoothly enough but I have to manually move it back from about 1/8 throttle. If I open it up to about 1/4 throttle or above it goes back to about 1/8. I hope that makes sense... What's everyones experience with this? Can I lube something to make it better and if so, what type of lube should I use? Other thoughts?

 

2. My other problem is the clutch. Keep in mind all I did was remove the housing from the stock bar, let it dangle and then put it back on. I didn't mess with it other than that. Now, the clutch seems a) just a little harder to pull and b) when I let it out it catches sooner. I used to get about 1 inch from the bar with the clutch lever before it caught but now it's more like 3/8 - 1/2 inch. Is there any way to adjust that?

 

I guess I can't think of any other way to explain those two problems so I'm looking for anyone that may have suggestions. Hopefully it all makes sense. I'm going on a long ride next weekend and want to make sure it's tip-top by then. Please give me your thoughts.

 

Hope everyone like the pics.

Les

[FuzzyRSTD]

I wish I could help you with your questions, but I can not. I have yet to do this mod, but I am going to do this. I have a question for you. Where did you get your bars and grips and ends and how much, if you do not mind ? Links would be very helpful to. The link for the bars price in Unsungmustang's how to thread would not work for me. I sent him an e-mail about it. He must be riding, because he has not responded as of yet.

 

Also, did this really help as far as pulling the bars back and up somewhat ?

 

My upgrade would be a little more involved because I have speakers and MP3 mount and power outlet attached to my bars. How long did it take you to complete ?

 

Which Flanders factory model # bars did you order ?

 

Fuzzy

[lshafer]

I wish I could help you with your questions, but I can not. I have yet to do this mod, but I am going to do this. I have a question for you. Where did you get your bars and grips and ends and how much, if you do not mind ? Links would be very helpful to. The link for the bars price in Unsungmustang's how to thread would not work for me. I sent him an e-mail about it. He must be riding, because he has not responded as of yet.

 

Also, did this really help as far as pulling the bars back and up somewhat ?

 

Which Flanders factory model # bars did you order ?

 

Fuzzy

 

Below is the link for the bars. The model number for our bikes is 650-08783. The part actually comes from Riders Needs out of Chicago, IL I believe when ordered through Amazon. It worked out well for me.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=650-08783&x=15&y=17

 

The Kuryakyn ISO grips and Bullet end weights I just found on Kuryakyn's web site and called my local dealer. Total charge on the grips and ends was $106.

 

As far as bar positioning up and down, that's really up to you. You can position them where you want for hight when you install them. The pullback is awesome. I used to ride with my arms almost fully extened and almost locked at the elbows - in fact, I had to slouch slightly just to avoid locking my elbows. Now, I sit like I should and can relax my arms, nicely bent at the elbow. VERY, VERY, VERY comfortable.

 

If I can be of any more help please let me know. Good luck.

[Sleeperhawk]

I did the Flanders on my RSV a few years back.

 

I had the same issue with the throttle, I kept playing with the adjustments, but be sure the grip is all the way on too, and when you put the end weight on, the set screws should be the short ones unless you put in the color/chrome rings. These set screws if too long will slide the grip out causing some bind. I ended up getting the Barron end weights.

 

As far as the clutch, I am fine were it engages, so I did not pay any attention to that.

[lshafer]

I did the Flanders on my RSV a few years back.

 

I had the same issue with the throttle, I kept playing with the adjustments, but be sure the grip is all the way on too, and when you put the end weight on, the set screws should be the short ones unless you put in the color/chrome rings. These set screws if too long will slide the grip out causing some bind. I ended up getting the Barron end weights.

 

As far as the clutch, I am fine were it engages, so I did not pay any attention to that.

 

I don't have the end weights on quite yet but when I put the grips on they were already fully assembled with the factory end caps. I never touched the screws in the end of the throttle grip. I certainly understand what you're saying. It makes perfect sense but I'm sure that's not my issue. Before connecting the trottle cable the grip, the grip was smooth as could be. I'm worried that the cable is bent wrong or that it needs a lube job. If it's bent wrong I don't know where because I traced the whole thing and it looks smooth as a babies butt. I'm sooo confused by it. :confused24:

[Sleeperhawk]

I don't have the end weights on quite yet but when I put the grips on they were already fully assembled with the factory end caps. I never touched the screws in the end of the throttle grip. I certainly understand what you're saying. It makes perfect sense but I'm sure that's not my issue. Before connecting the trottle cable the grip, the grip was smooth as could be. I'm worried that the cable is bent wrong or that it needs a lube job. If it's bent wrong I don't know where because I traced the whole thing and it looks smooth as a babies butt. I'm sooo confused by it. :confused24:

 

If you don't see any bent areas, then check the end that the throttle on the grip and at the junction where the cruise control and carb cables meet. These have to be in the groove correctly.

[lshafer]

 

Forgive me but I'm not sure where you're talking about. I pretty mechanically inept. Sorry.

[Merlin]

The clutch may be an air bubble. On my old VS 1400 Intruder, I did a bar change and I mistakenly let the clutch master cylinder hang upside down for a while. It developed an air bubble which made the clutch spongy, grab sooner, and struggle to disengage the basket. The cure was to bleed the clutch line. It was not so easy. I had to trace the line to the master cylinder and find the bleeder. Then I had to bleed the line by pumping the lever, running fluid through it, and making sure there were no air bubbles. Just like bleeding brakes on a car. I would suspect that with the hydraulic clutch you are having the same problem. Think back; did you invert the clutch master, turn it sideways, or move the lever at all? Let is hang sideways or upside down for any length of time? I'm guessing an air bubble in the clutch line.

[lshafer]

The clutch may be an air bubble. On my old VS 1400 Intruder, I did a bar change and I mistakenly let the clutch master cylinder hang upside down for a while. It developed an air bubble which made the clutch spongy, grab sooner, and struggle to disengage the basket. The cure was to bleed the clutch line. It was not so easy. I had to trace the line to the master cylinder and find the bleeder. Then I had to bleed the line by pumping the lever, running fluid through it, and making sure there were no air bubbles. Just like bleeding brakes on a car. I would suspect that with the hydraulic clutch you are having the same problem. Think back; did you invert the clutch master, turn it sideways, or move the lever at all? Let is hang sideways or upside down for any length of time? I'm guessing an air bubble in the clutch line.

 

I think you may have been correct about the air bubble and I believe it worked itself back to where it should have been. I put about 150 miles on the bike today and before I got back home everything is back to normal.

 

I stopped at my local dealer and had them lube the throttle cables for me and now that's back to normal too. They even did it at no charge.

 

I've ended up with another issue though. The new bars and grips have cured my tingling fingers issue but have created a pain in my lower back. I think the reason for it is that I'm sitting up more straight on the bike now and up against the back rest so when I hit bumps that jolt travels up though my tailbone and spine. Before I was slightly hunched over because I had to reach the handlebars causing my spine to act a little like a spring when I'd hit a bump. I'm not sure if that theory makes any sense but it's all I've come up with so far. I'm going to try adjusting my backrest a little and if that doesn't work I might tilt the bars up a smidge. Maybe so they raise about an inch at the grips and see what that does.

 

Anyway, it looks really nice!!! I'll say that for sure...

[Blacksmith]

did you have to change cables with theses bars ? I just got an 08 RSTD yesterday and I'd like the bars back a lil bit more

[TDbiker]

Installing the Flanders bars has to be one of the best things I've done to my '05 RSTD. I used to get a pinch between the shoulder blades, but no more.

 

I didn't have to change any cables or hydraulic lines to put these on. I think I did need to re-route some of them however. In any case, I didn't have to open the hydraulic lines.

 

I experienced the same 2 issues discussed in the initial post. The clutch took care of itself after about 30 minutes of riding and several shifting cycles. Regarding the throttle sticking, in my case I actually had to slightly grind down the handle bar on the very end under the grip. Apparently the chrome was a little too heavy. Anyway, 2 seasons and everything is good.

[slim_32]

did you have to change cables with theses bars ? I just got an 08 RSTD yesterday and I'd like the bars back a lil bit more

 

I just put the flanders bars on my 08 Royal Star. I love them. I found them on ebay around $ 135.00 with free shipping. It was like riding a different bike. I didn't have to add new cables just some rerouting. I did pull the tank off and rerouted the electrical wiring to the right side. I had a friend at work turn down and thread inserts so I could remount the end weights. good luck.