Need clutch Help!

[memmax]

Hello folks;

I am a new member and need some help.

I just purchased a 1988 Venture Royale, approx 57k miles on it. Still in real good condition and runs strong.

I have begun to improve on some items, first thing I did was to add the progressive springs in the front forks, what a difference, thank you for the advice.

Here is my situation; I hear a rattle noise in the clutch assembly when the bike is on the kick stand leaning to the left. When the bike is straight, it does not seem to rattle.

I took off the cover and inspected the clutch assembly.

I do not know what it should feel like from factory? My clutch plates attached to the clutch ‘boss’ the whole assembly seem to be a little loose as I am able to wiggle it back and forth slightly. Not sure if there is supposed to be wiggle room? I think that is where the rattle is coming from.

I need help in trying to take off the big nut in the center of the clutch assembly? It is a 30mm nut and I have socket to fit it but I do not know how to hold the clutch boss and clutch basket in place to loosen the nut?

I am also wondering if there is a washer or bushing behind the clutch boss that may be worn? Or if the 30mm nut is just not tight enough causing the wiggle room that I am finding?

Any advice that any of you can give me is greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for any help.

Yours truly,

Mark

[memmax]

Hi folks;

I have figured it out -- mostly. Reviewing some older posts I found that using an impact gun is the easiest way to remove the main ‘nut’ holding the clutch boss in place.

Upon removing the entire clutch assembly I found a few things miss-aligned; likely from factory or even more likely by some knuckle-head that may have worked on the bike during a previous ownership.

Taking the entire assembly apart I found nothing that seemed wrong or out of place with regard to the operation of the clutch. Main bearing all associated bearings etc were fine.

But; the main issue with the clutch boss slight wiggle was the fact that the ‘lock-washer’ that holds the main nut from turning was not properly placed on the ‘spline shaft’. This mis-alignment did not allow the main nut to snug up the clutch boss properly hence the slight wiggle between the clutch boss and the ‘clutch-housing’. Actually this ‘lock washer’ was bent and did not fit on the spline shaft properly at all. Had to fix that so that the lock washer did fit onto the shaft.

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Now the last issue I found and have not yet fully fixed is the issue with the ‘washer’ that fits between the clutch-boss and the clutch-housing. This washer is grooved to fit onto the splined shaft. But; I think this washer is either ‘too-thin’ as it fits onto the spline shaft but actually is thin enough to go behind the spline portion of the shaft and be sloppy or loose between the clutch boss and the clutch housing on the non-splined portion of that shaft.

I put the whole assembly back together and tightened up on the main nut with the proper lock washer fitting and then the clutch boss had no wiggle or slop in the fit. But the grooved washer between the clutch boss and clutch housing is still sloppy and I think that is where there is still some rattle and making a rattle noise in the clutch assembly area when the bike is leaning to left on the kick stand. But the rattle is a lot less than before I tightened the clutch boss assembly.

Does anyone know if this grooved washer is supposed to slide behind the splined shaft between the clutch boss and housing??

Is that grooved washer even necessary in the assembly of the entire mechanism??

Any other thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot,

Mark

[Flyinfool]

Fortunately I have not had to tear this far into my 88 yet, so I can not help with your washer question.

While you are/were in the clutch area you should have done the clutch spring upgrade if it hasn't been done already. The stock spring gets weak with time, not miles. You will first notice this as a slip of the clutch when at wide open throttle in 4th or 5th gear. IN the lower gears it is still slipping but you are to busy hanging on (and watching the second gens in your rear view mirrors:stickpoke:) to notice.

[Yammer Dan]

What Jeff said but you will have to look quick for those 2nd Gens as they keep getting smaller in the mirror.... The clutch spring is a quick 15 minute fix if you do it. No rush but it will start slipping sooner or later. Maybe.. You can double stock spring or get the one from Sky Doc I think is best way to go. I wouldn't worry a lot about that washer but if it bugs you I would change it for one that fits the way you want it. Don't think it will make much difference but might take away rattle. Or you could get some Ear Plugs.... WELCOME!!!

[Flyinfool]

Or you could slow down enough for a 2nd gen to catch you and then the clutch whine will drown out your rattle.........

[memmax]

Thanks a lot guys for your insight. So far i have no clutch slipping in any gear hi or low. now that i know how to remove all pieces of the entire clutch, it is a relatively easy job, so long that you have all tools handy and about an hour of time.

 

if anyone knows any more about the 'grooved washer' between the clucch boss and housing? i am still really interested in how it was designed to fit via factory specs?

 

I almost cannot believe that it should be able to slip behind the splined portion of the shaft and rattle around between the clutch boss and housing?

 

That is what it is doing in my assembly.

 

anyone else notice how this particular grooved washer fits on your bike??

 

Thanks again,

Mark

[dingy]

Attached pdf is from the 86-93 service manual.Pay attention to all of page 3-69 and especially item #6 on page 3-70.

 

Maybe this will help some, not sure.

 

The plates and friction discs do have a little bit of wiggle to them when they are slid into the basket.

 

Another occasional problem is the clutch bearing (item #8), they are known to fail.

 

When you put friction discs back in, line up the notches on the plates in the stack. Can be seen in very top right segment of clutch pack in picture.

 

The long clutch push rod goes in with the dimpled end towards the clutch side.

 

Do not over tighten clutch spring hex head screws (6 of them) something like 5.8 ft lbs. Over tighten and you will get experience with an easy out.

 

Check steel plates for any signs of overheating or bluing. Check friction discs are within thickness spec of .114"-.122". Rarely go bad though.

 

Gary

Edited July 15, 2011 by dingy
edited page # reference

[memmax]

Thank you very much, Gary for the pdf and information.

Yes, I seem to have figured out all of the items you mentioned, checked all of the bearings including #8 and they looked fine and were free spinning, no grabbing or wobble. I learned item #6 on page 70 ‘the hard way’ by not having it aligned. If that happens, you will not be able to pull in your clutch leaver on the bike, it will be real stiff. Once I fixed and aligned properly as shown in item #6 all was good.

My specific situation seems to be with item #14 on page 3-68 on the pdf you attached. It is referred to as a ‘spring washer’ on the diagram.

That specific washer in my bike is a grooved washer that fits onto the spline shaft between the clutch boss and the clutch housing.

I just noticed that on the pdf, the clutch boss and housing are mis-labeled in the figure represented.

The clutch boss is labeled #13 and the clutch housing is labeled #15 on the picture.

But, in the written listing they are calling #13 a ‘circlip’ and #15 a ‘clutch boss'.

Which are both incorrect written listings.

Another thing I learned ‘the hard way”.

Anyway, if you or anyone knows what, and how item #14 in the picture, referred to as the ‘spring washer’ is suppose to fit correctly between the clutch boss and clutch housing I would really appreciate the information.

Like I said before, my #14 washer is grooved to fit onto the spline shaft, but actually goes off of the shaft's spline and slops around behind on the non-splined area of this shaft between the boss and housing.

To me it just does not seem correct for some reason, it is like this grooved washer is just slightly too thin and does not stay attached to the spline portion of this shaft.

But I do not know?

Thank you all for any help you may be able to provide

All the best,

Mark