Replacing The Rear Brake Pads, Here's How..

[FuzzyRSTD]

First of all, if anyone has anything to add, please do. I am a shade tree mechanic. These things are nice to have to do this in hot weather; A garage, a fan, an air conditioner. I am blessed to have these, so I took the time to take some pictures as I did this. Hope it helps someone else. Time frame; 45 minutes to complete.

Tools needed;

 

A 4 mm allen head socket or allen wrench.

 

A short 3" extension.

 

A ratchet.

 

A flat screw driver.

 

A pair of needle nose pliers.

 

A 3/4 " wide wood chisel or some tool of this nature to pry with.

 

#1 . Remove the right side hard bag using the ratchet and extension and 4 mm allen head socket. There are 4 allen head bolts that hold this. There is one that is longer than the others and has a chrome spacer between the mount and hard bag.

#2 . Remove the plastic cover from the top of the brake caliper with the flat screw driver. It just pops right off.

#3 . Locate and remove the small clips that are through the pins in the caliper and brake pads. Rotate them around to face up and carefully pull them right out with the needle nose pliers.

 

#4 . Next remove the two pins with the needle nose pliers, ( twist them as you pull them out). Remove one and then the other being careful of the flat spring type holder thingy.

#5 . Remove the flat spring keeper thingy from atop the brake pads. Pay attention as to how it comes off and lay it aside that way.

#6 . Using the needle nose pliers, remove the old pads and look closely at the inside (wheel side pad). If it is less than 1/8" replace pads. Some pads are wore more on the rear end of the pad (thinner).You can switch the inside pad to the out side and get 2000 to 3000 more miles out of them if you have 1/8 " left. My bike had 13,800 mile and where less than 1/8 " material left on inside pad, so new pads where installed.

Outside pad compared to new> Inside pad compared to new>

#7 . If you are replacing the pads, you will need to pry the brake piston back in to allow room for the new pads ( I used - EBC brand FA-123HH brake pads ). I used the 3/4" wood chisel to pry the pistons in because it has a short handle and was wide and easy to get into the area.

 

Per SilverT;

 

Clean the pins before you replace them, they may require a bit of "buffing up" with either emery paper or a buffing wheel on your drill.

Clean the " thingy" before you replace it.

Coat the pins with brake lubricant before you replace them.

Coat the back side of the pads and the outer edges where they will rub against the caliper and other stationary metal parts with brake lubricant.

 

Per RSTDdog;

 

In addition to the lubricating tips (lightly) I am of the "clean the exposed part of the piston before pushing it back in" school of thought. Of course to do this properly you need to take the caliper loose which adds a few steps. Now is also a good time to change that brake fluid.

 

Someone said that it is possible to clean the piston with a Q-tip and some break fluid before pushing back. Also it has been mentioned that a 42 thousand washer be placed between the frame and caliper to line the caliper up to equalize/a-line the inside pad wear. I have not researched this and I am only mentioning here for someone else to search.

 

#8 . Using the needle nose pliers, put the new pads in place with the pin holes up. Being careful to put them in with the wear material toward the rotor. There is no difference in the two pads,they are the same.

#9 . Replace one pin through the break pads and into the rotor. Now put the spring type holder thingy in under the one pin. Now the tricky part. Put the second pin through the break pads and through the spring type holder thingy and into the rotor, all at the same. Easy though...

#1 0. Now replace the small clips into and through the small holes in the pins as before. I turned the small clips up and to the left and right. Make sure you get these in correctly (half way point). You would not want these coming out.

#1 1. Now work the rear brakes and get the pads kinda seated into place. Will feel kinda spongy at first pump or two. I made sure my rear breaks worked and released by pushing bike forward and back a couple times.

 

#1 2. Replace/snap plastic cover back into place.

#1 3. Replace the hard bag with the four 4 mm allen head bolts. Remember the long one goes into the rear and side next to wheel and through the chrome spacer. Also make sure the rubber bushings and washers are on the hard bag (bottom and side). Most of the time they will stay in place if you are careful.

#1 4. Make notes of your mileage and date in your owners manual and also keep your receipts to proof any warranty issues. Also for a reference/reminder as to when you need to replace again and what type/brand to use.

 

Helpers are good and I had my little boys help.

 

Fuzzy

Edited April 22, 2020 by Freebird

[SilvrT]

Good writeup!!

 

Just a thing or 2 to add...

 

Clean the pins before you replace them, they may require a bit of "buffing up" with either emery paper or a buffing wheel on your drill.

Clean the "spring thingy" before you replace it.

Coat the pins with brake lubricant before you replace them

Coat the back side of the pads and the outer edges where they will rub against the caliper and other stationary metal parts with brake lubricant.

[Galapagos]

I will have to do this in the near future. Maybe I will take some pics for reference. How are you on front pads?

[dingy]

Fuzzy ...... have pictures and I am in the process of adding to this. Please bear with me. I had this almost completed last night and late, and lost it all. So going to post this first.

 

 

I feel your pain on the losing a write up. I have been there done that. I now copy the longer ones I do once in a while to a text file and keep it on my desktop till I get done. It's annoying to try and do it over.

 

Very nice job on this one.

 

Gary

[FuzzyRSTD]

I will have to do this in the near future. Maybe I will take some pics for reference. How are you on front pads?

 

I checked them the other day when checking rear. They looked fine, more than an 1/8". So probably another 4000 mile or so.

 

Fuzzy

[FuzzyRSTD]

Good writeup!!

 

Just a thing or 2 to add...

 

Clean the pins before you replace them, they may require a bit of "buffing up" with either emery paper or a buffing wheel on your drill.

Clean the "spring thingy" before you replace it.

Coat the pins with brake lubricant before you replace them

Coat the back side of the pads and the outer edges where they will rub against the caliper and other stationary metal parts with brake lubricant.

 

Thanks SilverT. I wish I would have talked to you first. I will pull them back off later and do that.

Fuzzy

[RSTDdog]

Please bear with me.

 

You don't have to say please, I had a beer with you while reading it.

 

Very Good write up. Thanks for taking the time! In addition to the lubricating tips (lightly) I am of the "clean the exposed part of the piston before pushing it back in" school of thought. Of course to do this properly you need to take the caliper loose which adds a few steps. Now is also a good time to change that brake fluid.

 

RSTDdog

[Al Bates]

James, nice job, pics and all, good work.

 

Thanks for post

 

Al Bates

[FuzzyRSTD]

You don't have to say please, I had a beer with you while reading it.

 

Very Good write up. Thanks for taking the time! In addition to the lubricating tips (lightly) I am of the "clean the exposed part of the piston before pushing it back in" school of thought. Of course to do this properly you need to take the caliper loose which adds a few steps. Now is also a good time to change that brake fluid.

 

RSTDdog

 

I think I spelled bare (bear) wrong anyway. Mmmmm brake fluid change. Now how often should this be done ? 13,800 on bike, will have to check into this now. I did notice this a while back in something I read here. I think I checked the sight class and brake fluid color was clear,not milky looking, but not sure now. Memory loss,lose,lost,forgotten .....

:confused24:

James (AKA Fuzzy)

Edited July 7, 2011 by FuzzyRSTD

[RSTDdog]

Nope You had spelled right the first time- bear. I was just having fun with it. If you spell it the other way, well lets just say that wouldn't be pretty....

 

Brake fluid is typically every two years. My bike was fours years old when I did it. Don't know if the PO had done it or not but I doubt it. I change it when it starts turning from clear to light brown. Clutch fluid gets dark faster, so I change it more often than the brake fluid. The brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, leave it unchanged long enough and it gets that gell and crystals in it.

 

I use a mighty vac to bleed and flush brakes, but I have read that others like the speed bleeders. I haven't used those so can't comment. Just don't forget to cover those paintd parts before you start.

 

RSTDdog

[SilvrT]

 

I use a mighty vac to bleed and flush brakes,

RSTDdog

 

Could you elaborate on the process? I happen to have one of those vacs that I use for cleaning computers. Are we talking the same kind of vac?

[Yammer Dan]

First of all, if anyone has anything to add, please do. I am a shade tree mechanic. These things are nice to have to do this in hot weather; A garage, a fan, an air conditioner. I am blessed to have these, so I took the time to take some pictures as I did this. Hope it helps someone else. Time frame; 45 minutes to complete.

Tools needed;

 

A 4 mm allen head socket or allen wrench.

 

A short 3" extension.

 

A ratchet.

 

A flat screw driver.

 

A pair of needle nose pliers.

 

A 3/4 " wide wood chisel or some tool of this nature to pry with.

[ATTACH]58378[/ATTACH]

 

#1. Remove the right side hard bag using the ratchet and extension and 4 mm allen head socket. There are 4 allen head bolts that hold this. There is one that is longer than the others and has a chrome spacer between the mount and hard bag.

[ATTACH]58380[/ATTACH][ATTACH]58381[/ATTACH][ATTACH]58382[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]58404[/ATTACH]

#2. Remove the plastic cover from the top of the brake caliper with the flat screw driver. It just pops right off.

[ATTACH]58383[/ATTACH]

#3. Locate and remove the small clips that are through the pins in the caliper and brake pads. Rotate them around to face up and carefully pull them right out with the needle nose pliers.

[ATTACH]58384[/ATTACH][ATTACH]58385[/ATTACH]

#4. Next remove the two pins with the needle nose pliers, ( twist them as you pull them out). Remove one and then the other being careful of the flat spring type holder thingy.

[ATTACH]58386[/ATTACH]

#5. Remove the flat spring keeper thingy from atop the brake pads. Pay attention as to how it comes off and lay it aside that way.

[ATTACH]58388[/ATTACH]

#6. Using the needle nose pliers, remove the old pads and look closely at the inside (wheel side pad). If it is less than 1/8" replace pads. Some pads are wore more on the rear end of the pad (thinner).You can switch the inside pad to the out side and get 2000 to 3000 more miles out of them if you have 1/8 " left. My bike had 13,800 mile and where less than 1/8 " material left on inside pad, so new pads where installed.

[ATTACH]58390[/ATTACH][ATTACH]58391[/ATTACH]

#7. If you are replacing the pads, you will need to pry the brake piston back in to allow room for the new pads ( I used - EBC brand FA-123HH brake pads ). I used the 3/4" wood chisel to pry the pistons in because it has a short handle and was wide and easy to get into the area.

[ATTACH]58393[/ATTACH][ATTACH]58394[/ATTACH]

 

Per SilverT;

 

Clean the pins before you replace them, they may require a bit of "buffing up" with either emery paper or a buffing wheel on your drill.

Clean the "spring thingy" before you replace it.

Coat the pins with brake lubricant before you replace them.

Coat the back side of the pads and the outer edges where they will rub against the caliper and other stationary metal parts with brake lubricant.

 

Per RSTDdog;

 

In addition to the lubricating tips (lightly) I am of the "clean the exposed part of the piston before pushing it back in" school of thought. Of course to do this properly you need to take the caliper loose which adds a few steps. Now is also a good time to change that brake fluid.

 

#8. Using the needle nose pliers, put the new pads in place with the pin holes up. Being careful to put them in with the wear material toward the rotor. There is no difference in the two pads,they are the same.

[ATTACH]58395[/ATTACH]

#9. Replace one pin through the break pads and into the rotor. Now put the spring type holder thingy in under the one pin. Now the tricky part. Put the second pin through the break pads and through the spring type holder thingy and into the rotor, all at the same. Easy though...

[ATTACH]58386[/ATTACH][ATTACH]58388[/ATTACH]

#10. Now replace the small clips into and through the small holes in the pins as before. I turned the small clips up and to the left and right. Make sure you get these in correctly (half way point). You would not want these coming out.

[ATTACH]58396[/ATTACH]

#11. Now work the rear brakes and get the pads kinda seated into place. Will feel kinda spongy at first pump or two. I made sure my rear breaks worked and released by pushing bike forward and back a couple times.

 

#12. Replace/snap plastic cover back into place.

[ATTACH]58383[/ATTACH]

#13. Replace the hard bag with the four 4 mm allen head bolts. Remember the long one goes into the rear and side next to wheel and through the chrome spacer. Also make sure the rubber bushings and washers are on the hard bag (bottom and side). Most of the time they will stay in place if you are careful.

[ATTACH]58381[/ATTACH][ATTACH]58382[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]58404[/ATTACH]

#14. Make notes of your mileage and date in your owners manual and also keep your receipts to proof any warranty issues. Also for a reference/reminder as to when you need to replace again and what type/brand to use.

[ATTACH]58405[/ATTACH]

 

Helpers are optional and I had my only son to help.

 

[ATTACH]58406[/ATTACH]

Fuzzy

 

 

 

On a 1st Gen that includes 2 beer breaks!! Good writeup.

[RSTDdog]

Could you elaborate on the process? I happen to have one of those vacs that I use for cleaning computers. Are we talking the same kind of vac?

 

 

Probably not the same. Mine looks like this. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=mityvac&hft_adv=10041&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=mityvac&utm_campaign=SubBrands%20-%20Exact

 

Has multiple uses, testing vacumm switches, vacuum breakers , etc. For this basically you use it first to empty all the dirty fluid from the reservoir (remove lid and suck it out). Then refill reservoir with clean fluid. Then attach hose to bleeder, other end of hose to that container thats pictured and then the hose to the might vac. Mityvac induces vacuum on the container, crack the bleeder, draw the fluid through. Close bleeder and Periodically stop and refill reservoir to keep it from sucking air and repeat. After it runs nothing but clean fluid, I always do a couple manual pump and bleeds.

 

RSTDdog

[Merlin]

Great writeup Fuzzy!

 

The only thing I could add is that for a few dollars, you can usually purchase speed bleeders which have a check ball in the bleeder, so you can pump the lever or pedal without sucking air back into the caliper. It makes it a lot easier to bleed brake lines and masters when you are by yourself and don't want to do the hokey pokey back and forth closing bleeders and pumping the levers.

 

Or you can go the mityvac route, either one works well.

 

Thanks for taking the time!!!

Edited July 8, 2011 by Merlin

[SilvrT]

Probably not the same. Mine looks like this. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=mityvac&hft_adv=10041&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=mityvac&utm_campaign=SubBrands%20-%20Exact

 

Has multiple uses, testing vacumm switches, vacuum breakers , etc. For this basically you use it first to empty all the dirty fluid from the reservoir (remove lid and suck it out). Then refill reservoir with clean fluid. Then attach hose to bleeder, other end of hose to that container thats pictured and then the hose to the might vac. Mityvac induces vacuum on the container, crack the bleeder, draw the fluid through. Close bleeder and Periodically stop and refill reservoir to keep it from sucking air and repeat. After it runs nothing but clean fluid, I always do a couple manual pump and bleeds.

 

RSTDdog

 

You're right... mine is NOTHING like that LOL ... thanks for enlightening me!

[djh3]

I think Autozone has those on thier "loan a tool" program.

[XV1100SE]

Want to change front and rear pads. Will follow the above for the rear on my RSV. I've done a search but didn't find anything for fronts. Same process ?