Jump to content
IGNORED

Oil change?


Recommended Posts

...Any tips on filters,oil type..etc.
Put good oil in it, do not over fill, and use an excellent filter. Can't go wrong if you do those things.

 

 

 

 

Yes, I know that is a flippant response, but each of these things are discussed in great detail in many other threads on this site. If you have specific questions that the other threads do not answer, I'll be happy to tackle them. But I'm not feeling too much like just retyping lots of information that we have already provided.

Goose

Edited by V7Goose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Put good oil in it, do not over fill, and use an excellent filter. Can't go wrong if you do those things.

 

 

 

 

Yes, I know that is a flippant response, but each of these things are discussed in great detail in many other threads on this site. If you have specific questions that the other threads do not answer, I'll be happy to tackle them. But I'm not feeling too much like just retyping lots of information that we have already provided.

Goose

 

 

Just do a search on oil and you will find plenty on the subject.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im changing my oil tmmrw morning...Any tips on filters,oil type..etc. I would really appreciate it(my first time on this bike)

 

Also, if you do not have one already you can head on over to the star site and download a version of your owner's manual. You may find that helpful throughout the duration of your ownership. :thumbsup2:

 

http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/service/viewmanuals/star_manuals.aspx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had to do a search for "oil filter" to come up with this in the tech library. Hope it helps. Found it here> http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2149&d=1158543569 I would go with a motorcycle oil filter for sure. There is a difference in the automobile and motorcycle filters, even though some might work. I would use the Yamaha oil myself.:2cents:

 

Fuzzy

Edited by FuzzyRSTD
Sorry, I am trying to figure out the search features.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55024

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26888

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18145

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15079

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28626&highlight=rotella

 

and about a thousand others . . .

 

One update that may not be in those threads - Shell Rotella oil is now officially certified for JASO-MA. Rotella 15w-40 dino oil is my personal choice for 4,000 mile oil changes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im changing my oil tmmrw morning...Any tips on filters,oil type..etc. I would really appreciate it(my first time on this bike)

 

 

NOTHING wrong with Yamalube oil (10W40 recommended for around here) and Yamaha filter.. I tried the synthetics but didn't like it.. only filter locally available is the Yamaha filter.. As others indicated, check the threads on choices and preferences of oils and filters.

 

Simple little things while doing oil change is drain the oil when the engine is hot, the oil flows better.. loosen the filler cap to aid quicker draining, but leave it sitting on top to keep debris out.

 

Before spinning off filter, it's best to CLEAN around that area to avoid accidental contamination from debris falling onto filter area. Its a shame to have nice clean oil and new filter only to foul things up cuz everything is filthy down there.. A good wipe down with cloth rags usually does the trick.

 

Filter may not spin off easily when engine is hot / warm.. prolly needs to cool off. I just did three oil changes for friends and their filters were 'stuck' while engine warm but came off easy when engine cold. A wrap around strap filter wrench works best if you don't have time to wait for an engine to cool down. Always apply a coat of clean oil to the rubber gasket before installing spin on filter.

 

When putting in new oil, you should use a funnel to avoid messes.. I typically put 3 full bottles and then shy of 3/4 of the 4th bottle and fire up the bike, shut it down, let the oil settle and see where it sits in the sight glass and add / remove as required. I can sit on the bike to hold it upright and use a long extension inspection mirror to look down at the sigh glass.. (tip for road trip when you don't have a travel buddy with you to help hold the bike while you get down to look at levels)...

 

Oil changes on this bike are a snap and easy to do..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forgot... what bike is it?

 

Gary, I'm not so sure you have sufficient arrows in that writeup... :stickpoke:

 

But it got the point across, now we can be more helpful without having to look at his profile to see if he has a moped or a Venture.

 

:sign isnt that spec

 

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

On my previous bike I had problems telling exactly where the oil was. And it was easy to see the sight glass. So I trick I did was to take a paint pen (you can take a tooth pick or model paint brush and a quick spray of white paint into a paper cup) and just touch the high and low marks by the sight glass. That way when you look at the glas you have a reference of the points. Sure helps when your tryin to do the mirror bank shot trick checking the level.

Actually I was in this thread trolling for oil filter recomendations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was pretty happy withe the results I saw on the Purolator Pl series. I'll probably go with them. It looks like I'll be switching over the the Rotella T6 syn oil. I used Mobil 1 in the Kawaskai I got rid of, but I could also go like 7K between changes. At $40+ and a filter every 4K on this one I dont see that happeining. I think Wally world has the T6 for like $23 a gallon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im changing my oil tmmrw morning...Any tips on filters,oil type..etc. I would really appreciate it(my first time on this bike)

There are so many post on this site concerning your request. Look them up and you will see that the procedure , types of oil and filters are covered in very great detail. There is so much information concerning different oils, filters and etc that you may come away confused!! Like Goose said, use good oil, good filter, and change on schedule and do not over fill as it will drip out your breather tubes and possible clog up the carbs some. the oil in the sight glass should be no more than half way up the sight when I motorcycle is setting straight up. Now this all said this is my procedure for the bike.

Change oil every 5000 miles

3.5 qts. of castrol syntec. 10-40

add 8oz of Lucas oil,

Fram filter PH6017A

Use a magnetic drain plug as it will catch small metal fragments in the oil sump if there are any metal fragments. When you change the oil always check for metal fragments on the magnetic drain plug. Also remember to use 1oz of seafoam per gal every now and then to keep the carbs and fuel system clean. If the bike starts to backfire and pot put 8oz of seafoam per full tank and this could very well correct the problem.

Hope that this helps. DanC :cool10:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I just checked my owners manual. While it says 4K on the change interval, while looking at it I noticed it has a check mark for changing the filter every 8K. WHY ?? Why would you not change a $6-10 filter ? :confused24: I'm just sayn.......... Thats like takin a shower with your socks on. Shoot I know guys from the Kawai fourms I am on that change the filter @4K and run the oil out to the recomended 7500mi. That makes more sense to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep. I always change the filter. With full synthetic I think you're ok exceding 4,000 miles between oil changes as long as you are putting on more miles than that in a riding season.

 

I also think the rear gear oil change interval is too long. particularly when the bike is new I'd change the rear gear oil every oil change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For me for the time being I will have to stay on the 4K routine. Its still under warranty. The bike has 8080 I think when I looked at it today. I know its going out on a limb but I amgoing to assume (yes I know) the PO serviced it @ 600 miles and then again @ 4600 so I'm going with due @ 8600. I see in the service area it says to replace the spark plugs. Are they really ka-put @ 8000 miles? I just replaced the ones on my Kawi @ like 30K.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For me for the time being I will have to stay on the 4K routine. Its still under warranty. The bike has 8080 I think when I looked at it today. I know its going out on a limb but I amgoing to assume (yes I know) the PO serviced it @ 600 miles and then again @ 4600 so I'm going with due @ 8600. I see in the service area it says to replace the spark plugs. Are they really ka-put @ 8000 miles? I just replaced the ones on my Kawi @ like 30K.

 

I replaced my plugs at 60,000 not too long ago, and they were like new. Unless you are having serious ignition, backfire or other fouling problems, I can't see having to replace the plugs any more frequently than every 40,000 to 50,000 miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well wife and I took bike for a nice ride yesterday to see her dad. So when I got home it had 8640 on the clock. So taking into account that it should have had a service @ 600 & 4000 miles that should put me @ 8600 for the nex required service right? Well thats the way the math when I was in school works out anywho.

So I had 2 qt of Mobil 1 20w50 on hand and I had bought a gal of Rotella T6 the other day. I figured I'm heading into summer down here in Fl soon and the temps get up so I mixed it 50/50. I also used the purolator gold filter (PL14610)and the one one that is longer by like 1/2" or so. I found that if you use the longer filter it takes right at 4qt to get the level up. It under the top mark and dang close to where it was prior to the change. So I think I'm OK there. I got to thinking about the diff oil. The owners manual dont say anything about changing the diff oil for quite awhile yet. But I got to looking and I had a qt of Valvoline 75w90 syn gear oil, so I figured what the heck I was already dirty why not. Oil from diff looked OK just dark, no smeel or anything. No bright bits or what not. Engine oil out to me looked like it could have went another 4K pretty easy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...