cw1263 Posted July 4, 2011 #1 Posted July 4, 2011 tired of trying to get these on and off. Also don't like the idea of riding without them seat seems to lift off when getting off and on, or shifting position. Took a couple of small blocks of nylon and drilled holes in them and threaded them onto studs, finger tight. Aprox. 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/4
SilvrT Posted July 4, 2011 #4 Posted July 4, 2011 tired of trying to get these on and off. Also don't like the idea of riding without them seat seems to lift off when getting off and on, or shifting position. Took a couple of small blocks of nylon and drilled holes in them and threaded them onto studs, finger tight. Aprox. 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/4 Great idea but I find it odd that some folks have such a problem with these. 10mm socket on a small rachet and they're off in about a minute (or 2).
rumboogy Posted July 4, 2011 #5 Posted July 4, 2011 The thing I don't like about this design, is that the bolt is round (that's a revelation ain't it)...but the seat pan bolt holes are OBLONG. This allows the seat to "move" and I can see it even eventually would wear or cut the bolt into two pieces. What I do is to put a RUBBER (hard rubber) washer on the bolt...and then use Rick Butler's Nylon Nuts to cinch down the seat. For the first few rides...you are constantly tightening the nuts...but EVENTUALLY oblong hole will form a mold of the oblong and keep the seat from moving as much. Any other ideas out there? What would be great would be a "washer" with a hole, but also the same pattern as the oblong bolt hole.
SilvrT Posted July 4, 2011 #6 Posted July 4, 2011 The thing I don't like about this design, is that the bolt is round (that's a revelation ain't it)...but the seat pan bolt holes are OBLONG. This allows the seat to "move" and I can see it even eventually would wear or cut the bolt into two pieces. . I think the idea of the oblong holes is that, as you are dropping the seat down, the bolts are a) not exactly perpindicular and b) the rear catch is still not fully seated so will still slide a bit further backwards. When you cinch the nuts tight, how does the seat slide or move in the oblong hole? (that's not asking for input ... it's more of a wonderment)
Hulign Posted July 4, 2011 #7 Posted July 4, 2011 I bought nylon wing nuts in a standard thread and used them. They made new threads just fine and the seat stays tight. Cost about 1.50. Frank
Condor Posted July 4, 2011 #8 Posted July 4, 2011 I went ahead and picked up a couple of thumb nuts from McMaster-Carr in stainless. They work very well.
KeithR Posted July 4, 2011 #9 Posted July 4, 2011 Here is my solution......I always have a couple of sets on hand.....drop by and I'll give ya a set! Keith www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27341&highlight=lost+seat+hold
SilvrT Posted July 4, 2011 #10 Posted July 4, 2011 Seems there's been a lotta talk about loosing yer nuts on this site... I just wanna know... how long do yer nuts stay on before they fall off??
twigg Posted July 4, 2011 #11 Posted July 4, 2011 Seems there's been a lotta talk about loosing yer nuts on this site... I just wanna know... how long do yer nuts stay on before they fall off?? So far? At least 52 years ... today
dingy Posted July 4, 2011 #12 Posted July 4, 2011 Seems there's been a lotta talk about loosing yer nuts on this site... I just wanna know... how long do yer nuts stay on before they fall off?? The secret to check them often. If loose, screw them in some more. Gary
Handyman Posted July 5, 2011 #13 Posted July 5, 2011 I bought 1/4" rachet and slapped a 10MM socket on it. I carry it in the small tray in top of the saddlebag. That way I have it with me all the time. Never know when the seat needs to come off.
steamer Posted July 8, 2011 #15 Posted July 8, 2011 I went to Lowes picked up a couple standard size nylon wing nuts and cross threaded them on the stud's.Nice and tight,easy on easy off. cost about a buck.
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