Modifications for LD Riding .... First Generation VR

[twigg]

I have been, on a tiny budget, preparing my 1986 Venture Royale for Long Distance riding.

 

At the start of this thread I want to show you two of the mods accomplished.

 

The pictures show an equipment shelf I added recemtly. This is made from 2" x 1/8" aluminum strip from Lowes. I will put a few miles on the bike to make sure the mounts will hold. If not, I'll add supports. This shelf cost less than $15 and will carry my phone, satellite radio, two GPS units and a radar detector.

 

The driving lamp brackets are made from the same material. The lamps themselves are Walmart specials. These lamps are cheap ($18), but reviewed quite well. When I can afford it I will swap them for the Philips HID Driving Lamps.

 

The headlight has a HID conversion, which takes care of the dip beam, the driving lamps supplement the high beams and are controlled by a separate switch on top of the brake fluid reservoir.

 

The screen, discussed in another thread, has been cut down from 25" to 18", and narrowed considerably.

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0639.jpg

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0640.jpg

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0641.jpg

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0643.jpg

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0642.jpg

 

There are other mods done, and more to come and I'll add to this thread later.

 

Meanwhile, I'll take suggestions too, and if anyone has a 5 gallon fuel cell lying around, I'll take that too

[twigg]

Okay .... I have ridden it now with the new, shortened and narrowed screen.

 

I am 6 foot tall.

 

The screen has been cut down from 25" to 18". It is now at nose height when sitting normally on the bike.

 

The wind now catches my helmet at the top, handy for the vents up there. I can comfortably see over it, or duck behind it.

 

There is a small increase in noise and buffeting but not until I get over about 75mph.

 

She who must be obeyed will get a bit more, but I can still ride with my visor up, and it doesn't catch the wind.

 

Pretty much perfect, really, for anyone who hates looking through a screen.

 

As this screen has lost substantial height AND width I am hoping there will be a noticeable improvement in gas mileage too. I have been getting anything from 33 to 36mpg. I have leaned out the idle a little, to prevent the high idle when hot, and those two things should bump the mileage by maybe 2 to 3 mpg.

 

I tend not to "hang around" when riding, and we are frequently two-up, so I would be very happy to be getting 36 to 39mpg.

 

All of this helps enormously with ambient temps well over 100F right now.

[painterman67]

great idea on the shelf. Wish I had the tools and knowledge I'd make one for mine. Does it block the view of the instument console?

 

 

DAvid

[friesman]

I have never thought about adding real estate like that for more gadgets...good thinking outside the box. I dont know if you will get better mileage as now the dirty air will swirl around you but keep us posted. A vent in your windshield would also help cool you on those hot days. I have the goldwing vent in mine and it makes a huge difference.

 

Brian

[twigg]

great idea on the shelf. Wish I had the tools and knowledge I'd make one for mine. Does it block the view of the instument console?

 

 

DAvid

 

Nope.

 

I was worried about that too, so I made a template and I can easily see all the instrument panel from my riding position.

 

I have done some electrical mods too .... I'll get pictures and put them up later.

[twigg]

I have never thought about adding real estate like that for more gadgets...good thinking outside the box. I dont know if you will get better mileage as now the dirty air will swirl around you but keep us posted. A vent in your windshield would also help cool you on those hot days. I have the goldwing vent in mine and it makes a huge difference.

 

Brian

 

I was considering the 19" Clearview Vented screen, but at $259 (which is decent value) it's outside the budget.

 

What I can do is fit a vent in this screen.

 

So far, everything is working decently well, but the bike is 25 years old and I am shortly about to demand some big mileage from it.

 

Cosmetically, it still looks "very old and tired" .... mechanically it is now in pretty good shape.

 

I need some bits for the right hand fairing to lose the duct tape

[twigg]

Below are some of the electrical changes.

 

Yes they need tidying up and you can also see the bit's of fairing I need to replace.

 

Description below photo:

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0644.jpg

 

What you are looking at is the original fuse block carrier with the glass fuse block replaced with a 10 position ATC unit from Waytek.

 

On the left is the new 40 Amp main harness fuse, and the new wires to the starter solenoid.

 

Also on the left is the orange fuse holder carrying a 30Amp fuse feeding the new distribution panel screwed to the top of the airbox. I intend changing that set up so that the accessory distribution panel is "ignition controlled" ... A simple 50 Amp Relay will take care of that.

 

Once it is all tidied up it should be reliable and give me a bunch of options. The tank cover fits just fine, even with the new fuseblock cover installed.

[RedRider]

Are you doing these mods for just long distance travelling, or are you intending to do LD Rallying? You have a nice start for either/both. One of the items often installed by the LD crown is TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System). OEM seat? Pads or a custom seat will help. Not sure if Russell Day Long makes a seat for a Gen1, but they likely do. If not, check with Rick Mayer Seats. They are a big bill (approx $500), but really make a difference if you intend to do more than 500 miles per day (or 1000 miles per day in rally mode).

 

Really like the shelf. Nicely done.

 

RR

[twigg]

Are you doing these mods for just long distance travelling, or are you intending to do LD Rallying? You have a nice start for either/both. One of the items often installed by the LD crown is TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System). OEM seat? Pads or a custom seat will help. Not sure if Russell Day Long makes a seat for a Gen1, but they likely do. If not, check with Rick Mayer Seats. They are a big bill (approx $500), but really make a difference if you intend to do more than 500 miles per day (or 1000 miles per day in rally mode).

 

Really like the shelf. Nicely done.

 

RR

 

Thanks.

 

I plan on doing both. I have a Saddlesore 1000 which I did in March on my XS750 Triple.

 

I want a BBG (1500 miles in 24 hours) and I am entering a rally in September.

 

The bike came with a Travelcade Road Sofa. It's tatty but still very comfortable. A recent 450 mile daytrip, two up, was no problem for either of us.

 

I want to replace those cheap driving lights with HID units, but they cost $$$$. Also, I plan to fit a 5 gallon Fuel Cell where Mrs Twigg usually sits. With the right brackets and QD fittings, it should come off easily. A one gallon Igloo cooler with a drinking tube will go next to the Fuel Cell.

 

Also, I plan to mount a small inverter in the trunk to let me use my laptop on the road.

 

TPMS are a lot of money, but useful and a Russel Day Long would be great, but I didn't pay much more than that for the bike, so it's hard to justify when the Travelcade is decent.

 

A back rest is on the list.

[RedRider]

Not exactly sure on the first gen, but on the 2nd Gen hooking up an aux tank is really easy. Instead of a QD, you can put a 'T' in the fuel line where the line bends 90 degrees right after the petcock (about 3" from the petcock). Put a cap on the unused leg of the 'T' when the aux tank is not in use. If you are using the aux tank, just hard plumb it to the 'T'. Just takes a couple of minutes and is really easy. Just make sure to turn your petcock to 'off' before you remove the plug (don't ask me how I know) and have a small glass jar to catch the drippings.

 

The Tourtank works really well. Make sure to get one with a vent tube and a grounding lug. The grounding lug must be attached to the bike somewhere. The vent tube needs a hose attached that will allow overflow to reach the ground (not in front of the rear tire). IBR rules require each of these. If you are running in the IBR, you will need a puke tank (fuel overflow catch tank). I just vent my aux tank to ground and have had no difficulty in rallys that run the Team Strange rules. Check with the rally bastard when you sign up (Are you running one of Michael Hickman's rallys?).

 

The Roadsofa should do well. I forgot about that one. A sheepskin often helps with the airflow to keep the boys a little more comfortable. I might also suggest some LD Comfort riding shorts/pants. No seams and they wick away moisture. You can wash them in a sink and they will be dry in a couple of hours. Great product if you are wearing them for 24-48 hours straight. (No financial interest, just a happy customer - and Mario is a good friend of the LD community).

 

You may have a lot of this already dealt with. Just tossing out some things as I think of them. Feel free to ask any questions. I am really just a noob in the LD rallys (run 3 of them), but am working on getting into more as the years progress.

 

Keep your eyes open for BL6 next year. Butt Lite XI will be run by Team Strange and should be a 5 or 6 day rally. It usually starts/ends in the upper midwest (Minneapolis area).

 

FYI - My understanding is the Gen1 is what Micheal Kneebone started LD riding with. It has a long pedigree in the LD world. Several were run in the '95, '97, and '99 IBR.

 

Also, Peter Behm, the winner of this year's IBR, rides a 2000 RSV in rallys if his wife is accompanying him. He won the IBR riding an FJR. Good guy and great rider. Team Strange World Domination!

 

RR

[Venturous Randy]

I have been getting anything from 33 to 36mpg. I have leaned out the idle a little, to prevent the high idle when hot, and those two things should bump the mileage by maybe 2 to 3 mpg.

 

.

 

Saturday and Sunday, Linda and I put over 500 miles on my 83, mostly two lane back roads thru the mountains and hilly country. On the 1st tank I got 48mpg and the 2nd tank was 46. The 2nd tank was with some steep roads with switchbacks that took me all the way to 1st gear. You should be getting better mileage than what you are saying. I have replaced my diaphragms and reset the needle depths, which made the most difference. I also ride pretty agressively much of the time and my bike does run strong.

RandyA

[twigg]

Thanks for some very helpful info

 

I'll get a sheepskin. It's the one seat product I have yet to hear anyone complain about. From beads to Airhawks - all have their adherents, but everyone loves a sheepskin. I also need a waterproof cover for the seat.

 

The Aux. tank .... I was planning to fit the piping so that the aux. tank simply drains into, and refills the main tank once it is close to empty. That would mean a bulkhead fitting high up in the main tank. Easy enough to do and the regular tank return might suffice, so no drilling. I'll take a look. Fitting down by the petcock is interesting. If I did that the gas would still refill the main tank, and as it is before the pump ... Hmmmmm! Let me think about that.

 

LD Comfort shorts (x2) are on the shopping list. Yes, I am entering Mickael Hickman's Autumn Equinox Rally. I helped out with the IBR Prep Rally and met a number of the entrants in this year's IBR. I missed meeting Ken Meese as work commitments stopped him from coming.

 

You are correct, Mike Kneebone did ride a 1983 VR. He was refused entry in the 1986 IBR because the organisers didn't think he was experienced enough. I guess he made up for it

 

Oh ... and any more useful info you might have would be gratefully received. I want to make this work and other people's mistakes are way easier to learn from than your own!!

 

Before the September Rally I have two LD rides planned.

 

I have the bonus listing and rally pack from the IBR Prep. Rally. I plan on picking a route as if I were entered in that Rally, and riding it under rally conditions.

 

I am also considering a BBG, which would have me riding from North East Oklahoma to just short of the Arizona border, and back, in under 24 hours.

 

If the VR makes it, I'll be happy with my work so far.

[twigg]

Saturday and Sunday, Linda and I put over 500 miles on my 83, mostly two lane back roads thru the mountains and hilly country. On the 1st tank I got 48mpg and the 2nd tank was 46. The 2nd tank was with some steep roads with switchbacks that took me all the way to 1st gear. You should be getting better mileage than what you are saying. I have replaced my diaphragms and reset the needle depths, which made the most difference. I also ride pretty agressively much of the time and my bike does run strong.

RandyA

 

I agree, I should be getting better.

 

I'm not sure what the problem is right now. It's going to take some investigation to find.

 

The carbs are clean, sync'd and have quite a few new bits, including a full set of diaphragms, but I haven't yet checked the float levels, nor have I dialed in the Idle Mixture.

 

It starts very easily, the chokes work as they should and now it is idling fine when hot. It pulls strongly and the gas consumption is too good for a cylinder to be out.

 

The valves are all set just right .... so, I need to investigate.

 

Since I made the last round of changes I haven't run a tank of gas through it, so I don't yet know if it's improved.

[RedRider]

Thanks for some very helpful info

 

The Aux. tank .... I was planning to fit the piping so that the aux. tank simply drains into, and refills the main tank once it is close to empty. That would mean a bulkhead fitting high up in the main tank. Easy enough to do and the regular tank return might suffice, so no drilling. I'll take a look. Fitting down by the petcock is interesting. If I did that the gas would still refill the main tank, and as it is before the pump ... Hmmmmm! Let me think about that.

 

Actually, you run the aux tank first with the main petcock off (main tank full). Run the aux tank empty, then turn on the main petcock. You now have a full tank of gas with an accurate gas gauge.

 

Works great. Just make sure you can reach the shutoff valve on the aux tank from your seat while riding.

 

RR

[Flyinfool]

On a 1st gen the fuel valve is down by the right passenger floorboard. I can not reach mine while riding.

Also on most 1st gens that valve needs a tool to be able to turn it.

[twigg]

On a 1st gen the fuel valve is down by the right passenger floorboard. I can not reach mine while riding.

Also on most 1st gens that valve needs a tool to be able to turn it.

 

He's talking about the valve that would be fitted to the aux. tank outlet.

 

I wondered about using the auxiliary gas first, but most don't. They run the main tank to empty then use gravity, or a pump, to refill it from the reserve .... Then they have the gas gauge working for all the fuel.

 

Either way works and I haven't decided which to use yet/

 

Hey Jef .... We were talking about mounting Driving Lamps some time ago. Did you see those brackets I made upthread?

 

Edit ... Yeah, I see where he mentions the standard petcock. Mine sits on reserve and takes pliers to move it Couldn't be done while riding.

[Flyinfool]

He's talking about the valve that would be fitted to the aux. tank outlet.

 

I wondered about using the auxiliary gas first, but most don't. They run the main tank to empty then use gravity, or a pump, to refill it from the reserve .... Then they have the gas gauge working for all the fuel.

 

Either way works and I haven't decided which to use yet/

 

Hey Jef .... We were talking about mounting Driving Lamps some time ago. Did you see those brackets I made upthread?

 

Edit ... Yeah, I see where he mentions the standard petcock. Mine sits on reserve and takes pliers to move it Couldn't be done while riding.

 

Yes I did, Interesting.

Since I now have 2 Bad Boyz horns mounted back by the saddle bags, I used the original horn brackets for the new driving lights.

[Marcarl]

All looks real interesting,,, only comment I got is the location of the driving lights, right above the signal lights,,,,, it's kind of renders the signal lights useless, others won't be able to see them with the driving light on..... JMHO

Carl

[twigg]

All looks real interesting,,, only comment I got is the location of the driving lights, right above the signal lights,,,,, it's kind of renders the signal lights useless, others won't be able to see them with the driving light on..... JMHO

Carl

 

They are high beam lights.

 

Offhand I can't think of any situation where I would use the high beams and turn signals at the same time.

[Flyinfool]

They are high beam lights.

 

Offhand I can't think of any situation where I would use the high beams and turn signals at the same time.

 

I often use hi beam and turn signals at the same time.

When driving with the sun low and at my back I run the high beam to be better seen by drivers that are half blinded by driving into the sun. Never once has one of them flashed lights at me.

Any time I make a turn or lane change I use the turn signal. I do not switch to Lo beam for the turn or lane change unless there is another in use vehicle in front of me. But you never know when someone might be about to pull away from the curb just as you are turning left in front of them.

 

But then there are some definite advantages to having the lights up there.

There is not a "perfect" position for the driving lights, every position has pros and cons and it is up to each individual to decide what is most important to them. That is why we have choices.

[Marcarl]

They are high beam lights.

 

Offhand I can't think of any situation where I would use the high beams and turn signals at the same time.

True enough at night,,, when you are going to make a turn, you should have your low beams on anyways,,,, but a lot of us use them during the daytime, so cagers can see us better and maybe take a bit more notice of us,,, and that's what I was thinking of.

[twigg]

True enough at night,,, when you are going to make a turn, you should have your low beams on anyways,,,, but a lot of us use them during the daytime, so cagers can see us better and maybe take a bit more notice of us,,, and that's what I was thinking of.

 

I still have that option. They are wired through a separate switch by my right hand. So I can have them on only when I need them, which will usually be outside urban areas.

[RedRider]

He's talking about the valve that would be fitted to the aux. tank outlet.

 

I wondered about using the auxiliary gas first, but most don't. They run the main tank to empty then use gravity, or a pump, to refill it from the reserve .... Then they have the gas gauge working for all the fuel.

 

I actually was talking about the main tank petcock. The reason most plumb directly into the tank is their bikes are fuel injected. Since we are carburated, we can just feed directly into the line. Will look at the plumbing of the 1st gen when I get a chance and see how it would tap in. Sounds like the location of the main tank petcock, it may not be as easy as with the 2nd gen. Tapping into the main tank and feeding it may be the best solution - but don't know yet.

 

RR

[twigg]

I actually was talking about the main tank petcock. The reason most plumb directly into the tank is their bikes are fuel injected. Since we are carburated, we can just feed directly into the line. Will look at the plumbing of the 1st gen when I get a chance and see how it would tap in. Sounds like the location of the main tank petcock, it may not be as easy as with the 2nd gen. Tapping into the main tank and feeding it may be the best solution - but don't know yet.

 

RR

 

Yep.

 

The petcock location on the 1st Gens is right down by your right foot, and they are very difficult to move.

 

I was also going to look at the feasibilty of feeding into the return on the main tank filler tube.

 

There is plenty of space to add an inlet high up on the tank too, but it involves drilling, which is okay.

 

Putting a fitting in the top of the Sender Unit would be easy, but it might be a bit too low .... although that may not actually matter with the Aux. tank on the passenger seat level.

[twigg]

Okay, I looked.

 

From the petcock the hose runs round to the left hand side to connect to the fuel pump inlet.

 

There is an exposed part of the hose that will make a perfect place to T the aux. tank into.

 

I'll post pics when it's done.

 

By the way .... I am doing this all on a budget, and all the fittings are standard brass plumbing fittings from Lowes and/or Homedepot.

 

I plan on using a regular "water style" 90 degree ball valve. They are $7 instead of $30 for an "auto" version.

 

I was initially concerned that the PTFE seal in the ball valve wouldn't resist gasoline, so I checked.

 

PTFE does, in fact, resist pretty much everything. The discussions about PTFE Tape (plumbers tape) are to do with the binders used to make the "Teflon" into a tape product.

 

So the yellow tape is fine, the white isn't. The ball valve seals are PTFE, with not binders, so they are, in fact, water, air, gas and gasoline safe.