TCI electronic question

[van avery]

I pulled the TCI off my donor bike and installed it in the running bike and it ran . But not as well as the original TCI. So, I cut theTCI box and purchased the new diodes. and replaced them on the TCI from the donor bike. These were definately shot. Two of the diodes were completely disinigrated. While replacing the diodes, I noticed I also have a bad capacitor ( top of the attached picture). It's a 400V .047UF and the Radio Shack does not carry them. They do carry a 50V .047UF capacitor.

Since this is a 12 VDC system will the 50V .047 uF work instead of the 400V .047uF Capacitor?

Thank for any help.

[dingy]

From some of the past experiences dealing with the TCI's and related diode failure, it has been the general feeling that once the diodes fail completely, they take out other parts of the system & the TCI is beyond repair.

 

Since this is a TCI & not a CDI, my thought is the lower voltage cap will suffice.

 

Another option if this does not work for you is the Ignitech aftermarket TCI. Link is below. I am very glad I went to this unit.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414

 

Gary

[mbrood]

The power transistor is turned on and provides a ground to the primary side of the ignition coil. The flowing current throws an electromagnetic field into the secondary. When the transistor opens, the field in the primary coil collapses and provides a negative pulse that would be seen and possibly damage the power transistor, except that the large diode is oriented to provide that negative pulse passes safely to ground. This is not a 12 volt pulse, it's determined by the efficiency and size of the coil. In that mind, I wouldn't skimp on the voltage of the "proper cap"... try Digitek or Mouser Electronics, you can also often call around to radio/TV repair shops and get a suitable sub.

[Valley]

Has anyone tried this aftermarket unit on any later models? My bike calls for the T1D14-17 unit and the thread specs only up to the '89 models. Thanks. Valley

[dingy]

Has anyone tried this aftermarket unit on any later models? My bike calls for the T1D14-17 unit and the thread specs only up to the '89 models. Thanks. Valley

 

At least one, maybe two members has one on the single pickup coil 90-93 bikes. One was saltcreep.

 

Takes a different setup file when it is programmed. Ignitech supplies a harness that mates from the module to your bike, this harness will vary on the bike.

 

It would also work on an RSV if someone wanted to.

 

Gary

[van avery]

Thanks guy's, I ordered the correct capaictor and now waiting on the mail system. The diodes in the TCI on the running bike all checked out OK. Figured I would complete the repairs on the TCI from the donor bike and see if it helps. Might have to give up on the original and upgrade to a new TCI.

Thanks again and wish me luck.

[Yammer Dan]

I wish I could understand this electric talk. I've held 12,000 Volts AC in my hands and been shot with 50,000 volts but I don't know crap about it. Maybe thats why I wasn't skeered......

[dingy]

I wish I could understand this electric talk. I've held 12,000 Volts AC in my hands and been shot with 50,000 volts but I don't know crap about it. Maybe thats why I wasn't skeered......

 

 

It isn't the voltage that will get you, it's that tiny bit of current that will stop your heart.

 

I had an old timer on the railroad show me something that I thought he was crazy when he did it. I worked in signal dept. and one of the things we always had to do when we were done working in an equipment case was to verify the A.C. power was back on. Going to have to go out to my truck when he was with me one time to get meter to make the check. He said don't bother and with one hand latched onto the 110 AC buss. Nothing happened, he looked at me and said power was on. After explaining to me about only using one hand and not touching metal or anything with other hand, I tried it. It was only a moderate tingling sensation. I knew power was on because I could hear the battery rectifiers humming.

 

Since then I have done this quite a bit. I also have several tools that have deep burn marks in them by bridging the same AC circuits, low resistance in the metal is what makes the difference. It is just a matter of the high resistance in the hand and not just lightly touching the terminals, because the initial 'shock' will cause you to jerk back. This same thing can be fatal if tried with one hand on each leg of the AC due to current then passing through the heart. Never attempted on anything other than 110VAC. Also the safety book frowned upon this. I have worked with 17,000 live and am very respectful of electricity, just don't fear it.

 

It isn't that all different than plumbing in the sense of flow and pressure compared to current and voltage.

 

Gary

[Trader]

Dingy is what you might call a professional:smile5:

 

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!

[Yammer Dan]

The Tazer with 50,000 volts and very low amps is interesting. Will put you on the floor but causes no damage. Can even be used on heart patients. Handling the aerial lines with about 12k you know not to provide it a ground or it will be last one you work on. Saw a guy with arm blown off by 7,200 and he lived. It is strange stuff.

[bongobobny]

As far as the cap, no, use the 400 volt version. Just because the input voltage is only 12 volts does not mean that there is something in the circuitry that generates some high voltage spikes that the capacitor is trying to filter out. Try some online electronics stores such as MCM, Parts Express etc...

 

PS the voltage rating is more important than the value of capacitance. .047 microfarad is a common value but you could get away with something like a .05 etc.

[Yammer Dan]

Wasn't trying to steat your thread Van Avery. I am understanding a little of this. Trying to work my way up to replacing things that can be replaced in one of these. My good box is out on loan and "Ugly" is getting " Cold Natured" One of the 1st signs I think.