Windshield Trim Mount Tab Broken

[mnelson]

Broke fairing open and ended up snapping one of the mount tabs on the chrome windshield trim - but it is the tab on the end with the screw hole in it.

 

Saw the post for fixing the tabs on the inside part of the trim...Will that also work for the end tabs, or do I have to buy a new one?

 

Appreciate any help I can get.

 

MnM

[Hulign]

I had a similar problem with mine. The answer is simple. Plastex... Mine was broken at the base so yours might be easier. I would take a blade to it and scrape back the chrome and kind of V the area. Then just follow the instructions. I dare say mine is stronger than when it was made. Just done get too crazy with the liquid part on the chrome. Mine lifted a bit on the underside. If you do a search I think I posted pics and a review.

 

Good luck

 

Frank

[Steel Horse Cowboy]

As already stated, Plastex is the answer. It does a superperb job. I had wrecked our RSV back in Sept. 2010, it had cracks in the saddlebags and lids, trunk and lid, rear speaker covers and arm rests, my front fairing and dash were beyond repair, so I bought a front fairing and dash from a member here that had cracks in them. Just about every piece of plastic on the bike had some damage that had to be repaired. All these pieces were repaired with Plastex and I too say these repairs are stronger than the original pieces. I know some on this forum think its expensive, but for about $40.00 worth of Plastex, I probably saved over $1500.00-2000.00 or more instead of buying new parts. I highly recommend Plastex for any ABS plastic repair. They have different priced kits from $19.00-120.00 give or take a few $$$. Just pricing from memory which isn't what it used to be.

 

 

C.R.

[V7Goose]

That is quite easily fixed with ABS pipe solvent from your hardware store. Just make sure you get something that specifically states ABS - either the universal stuff or specific ABS pipe compound will work fine. It needs to be fresh, so if you have an old can sitting around, do not use it if there is any hint of thickening.

 

This stuff will simply weld the two pieces of plastic back together, and it will be at least as strong as new. No need to scrape anything - the broken ends are clean plastic. Just use plenty of compound on both sides and kind of work it together to mix the melted plastic, then let it sit in the sun for a MINIMUM of four hours.

Goose

[Bobby G]

I used Plast-Aid for a similar repair on the broken extrusions in the upper fairing that the wind deflectors screw into, and it also worked great! Literally stronger than the original ABS. Can't go wrong with either product.

[twigg]

That is quite easily fixed with ABS pipe solvent from your hardware store. Just make sure you get something that specifically states ABS - either the universal stuff or specific ABS pipe compound will work fine. It needs to be fresh, so if you have an old can sitting around, do not use it if there is any hint of thickening.

 

This stuff will simply weld the two pieces of plastic back together, and it will be at least as strong as new. No need to scrape anything - the broken ends are clean plastic. Just use plenty of compound on both sides and kind of work it together to mix the melted plastic, then let it sit in the sun for a MINIMUM of four hours.

Goose

 

The easiest answer of all is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone).

 

That is the generic name for the specific solvent for ABS, and the good news:

 

Home Depot sells it in Quart cans for around $10. Use some scrap ABS to grind up if you need a filler, and grin broadly when you look at how much guys are being fooled into paying for Plastex.

 

Wear gloves!

[Globewalker]

just don't use Seal-All adhesive

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61241

 

hmmm.. although its main ingredient is Methyl Ethyl Ketone... must be the acetone that got me...

 

Methyl Ethyl Ketone 30-60 %

Acetone 10-30 %

[V7Goose]

The easiest answer of all is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone).

 

That is the generic name for the specific solvent for ABS, and the good news:

 

Home Depot sells it in Quart cans for around $10. Use some scrap ABS to grind up if you need a filler, and grin broadly when you look at how much guys are being fooled into paying for Plastex.

 

Wear gloves!

We do not agree on what is easiest. Straight MEK, like acetone or water, is too thin to effectively apply and keep on only the work area. To use it properly, you do need to mix up powdered plastic to make a paste.

 

The commercial pipe solvent has enough thickeners in it to make it very EASY to apply just where you want it, and a small can or tube at the hardware store is even cheaper to buy than straight MEK.

 

Everyone is welcome to use what they prefer, but for a recommendation to someone who has never done this before, I personally think the pipe solvent will provide a much more satisfactory experience.

Goose