Yammer Dan Posted September 30, 2011 Author #326 Posted September 30, 2011 I'm not that good with the numbers Jeff and I could have been off a little with my measurements. I was mad because it was so far off so I didn't care much what tape said I couldn't stretch it!! I need to check my corners and if I'm lucky the end I have to use will be square. The other end I could just extend it 10 ft and square it up that way. Make sense??The only way to check it I know is the old 3-4-5 thing to find out which corners are off. Guys the M&E thing would be great if this was a one day job. With needing time for concrete to set and other things its not. I really Appreciate the thought. It would be a great party if it was just the block.
Yammer Dan Posted September 30, 2011 Author #327 Posted September 30, 2011 I am about where the last s is in Sears Rd. But it is not Sears Rd. It is still Little Italy Rd.
Yammer Dan Posted October 1, 2011 Author #328 Posted October 1, 2011 3-4-5 formula is multiplied by each number. Right? 3x7=21 4x7=28 5x7=35. So measure out one leg 21 ft the other leg 28 ft and it should be 35 ft across to be square? Since my building is 18 x 40 if I use 18-24-30 I can tell which corners are square. I think. Going to wear the numbers off that tape line!!
Yammer Dan Posted October 1, 2011 Author #329 Posted October 1, 2011 You need to measure again, the dimensions that you gave are mathematically impossible. If the sides are 18', 18', 40' and 40' then the diagonals must be 43' and 44' 8.5" or 43' 1.6" and 44' 7" But anyway you look at it, it is off by a lot. I do not know if that can be saved and still end up with a square garage. If the new contractor has to tear it out to start over I would defiantly be looking to take the first guy to court to recoup the damages. Who do you go to to file something like this? I do think I could win pretty easy.
dingy Posted October 1, 2011 #330 Posted October 1, 2011 3-4-5 formula is multiplied by each number. Right? 3x7=21 4x7=28 5x7=35. So measure out one leg 21 ft the other leg 28 ft and it should be 35 ft across to be square? Since my building is 18 x 40 if I use 18-24-30 I can tell which corners are square. I think. Going to wear the numbers off that tape line!! You mentioned something about it being a rubber style tape measure. I had a very nice Lufken (sp) 50' tape I had had since I was on the railroad. We could only use the rubberized style tapes due to tracks being electrified in some areas. About 2 decades later, I was using this tape in a semi, laying out a conveyor system in it and found out the tape had stretched close to 8" over the years. Point is if it isn't a steel tape, verify it against a known length. This wouldn't affect your corner to corner discrepancies (by this I mean they don't match), but may cause fits if you are doing the 3-4-5 corner check. Gary
Yammer Dan Posted October 1, 2011 Author #331 Posted October 1, 2011 Not a rubber one Gary. Just saying I was having trouble with the numbers coming out of it. Didn't want to believe them.
CaptainJoe Posted October 1, 2011 #332 Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) 3-4-5 formula is multiplied by each number. Right? 3x7=21 4x7=28 5x7=35. So measure out one leg 21 ft the other leg 28 ft and it should be 35 ft across to be square? Absolutely! Since my building is 18 x 40 if I use 18-24-30 I can tell which corners are square. I think. Going to wear the numbers off that tape line!! Yes this will work better. To make sure that the width and length area(s) that you are going to mark are perfectly straight... I'd pound in 8 posts and 4 strings to show a square cornered rectangular area (each corner being 90 deg.), he should have done this first. 1. Run a nylon foundation string attached to posts driven in the ground from each outside end of the length, to the other outside end to verify straightness. (add at least 2' on each end to drive posts so they don't get in the way). 2. Measure 40' on the long (length) footer from one end to the other(outside to outside) mark with a level to its vertical position (since he screwed everything else up i really doubt it is exactly 40' long... But...make sure you mark it at exactly 0', 24' and 40'... 3. Take a 2' x 18" metal square and drive a post in outside the footer, perpendicular to the mark you made for the beginning (0') length. then attach a 23' long string to the post, paying attention to which side of the post it should be on) 4. Now take string and hold it over 0' length mark and make a mark. Then measure out 18' from the 0' and make another mark. 5. Your gonna need some help for this one... hold a tape measure at 30', over the 24' length mark and get someone you trust to line the end of the tape with your 18'w mark. If you had two helpers, one could stand one on the outside of width area while the person at the beginning end of the tape measure directed them to move left or right. then drive a post in and attach string and double check. I perfer my posts on the outside of what I'm working on so they don't get in the way. 6. Do the same for the 40' end. 7. Now run a line from one 18' mark to the other 18' mark and you'll have a squared rectangle... (drive in posts and attach string) 8. Then take a picture (you will need this if you intend to sue the guy). Although you cant get blood out of a turnip so in this case unless he's got a lot of posessions, I'd pass and by word of mouth make sure he didn't get work in your area ever again... lawyers are expensive and will not tell you when to leave it alone... you heard the old joke... why does a dog lick its a$$? To get the taste of a lawyer he just bit, out of his mouth... Guess what I'm trying to say is: Don't assume the blocks are runing in a straight line... My head hurts... Edited October 1, 2011 by CaptainJoe
dingy Posted October 1, 2011 #333 Posted October 1, 2011 Dan, Here is your slab with some angular info on it. The 3-4-5 rule is 3 units out one leg, 4 units out perpendicular leg = 5 units from two points. I did same idea but showed the ratios at 9-12-15. This will allow you to find middle point of the two 18 foot legs (9'-0" from corner), then measure 12'-0" out from this corner on the 40 foot legs. The distance between these two points should be 15'-0". 3-4-5 is 9-12-15 multiplied by 3. Same results, just a bigger triangle that makes layout a little more accurate. Given the two diagonal measurements you posted, and the 18' & 40' side lengths, you are about 3 degrees out of square on each corner. Gary
from my seat Posted October 1, 2011 #334 Posted October 1, 2011 Oh Man, I don't even want to look at Dingys drawings anymore!!!! Hurts my head
Trader Posted October 2, 2011 #335 Posted October 2, 2011 First...I should mention that I'm about as good a contractor as I am a mechanic:bang head: but even if the walls are out of square...is it worth tearing down to start all over? I would think that as long as the long walls are parallel , the trusses will fit... If the end walls are out of square can't you "hide" that with a bit of creative soffit work? The concrete floor won't matter...its a "liquid" when you pour it. An out of square ceiling might require some custom cutting....but my point is...it's doable...not the ideal...but it won't make a difference to the structural integity of the building..... am I wrong here?
Lil Venturous Posted October 2, 2011 #336 Posted October 2, 2011 A squared plus B squared equals C squared. 40 squared plus 18 squared equals 1924 which becomes 43.864 feet. about 43 feet and 10 inches. I could be wrong because it has been awhile. I also believe that is what the Scarecrow quotes after the wizard gives him a brain in the wizard of oz.
dingy Posted October 2, 2011 #337 Posted October 2, 2011 A squared plus B squared equals C squared. 40 squared plus 18 squared equals 1924 which becomes 43.864 feet. about 43 feet and 10 inches. I could be wrong because it has been awhile. I also believe that is what the Scarecrow quotes after the wizard gives him a brain in the wizard of oz. You are gonna confuse Dan with algebra now, easy there !! Attached is a picture of what floor would look like if someone were to pour it correctly. Gary
Rocket Posted October 2, 2011 #338 Posted October 2, 2011 First...I should mention that I'm about as good a contractor as I am a mechanic:bang head: Yup, I've seen some of the pics posted...... I was also at Yammers in late June, so I saw the planned location then. No walls to worry about, from my understanding only the footers were poured. I had suggested that, if he wants go to a slightly larger garage (not Skid sized, not enough reasonably flat ground). Pour new footers outside the existing ones & incorperate the previous ones into the floor. I do not know WV bulding codes, but up here, the footers are not normally at grade level & drainage is also installed around the foundation to carry the water away. Dan you should consider your electical needs for when the garage gets done & leave a provision to get the wire inside, if going with a buried setup. Any other common sense type features, that should be incorperated into this basic (for now) garage, mancave to probably follow eventually.
BradT Posted October 4, 2011 #340 Posted October 4, 2011 My head hurts!! Where yah been trying to figure out Dingy's drawing for the past few days Brad
Yammer Dan Posted October 6, 2011 Author #343 Posted October 6, 2011 Taking care of Electric & Water & gas Rocket.
Trader Posted October 6, 2011 #345 Posted October 6, 2011 Is anything actually happening there or are you still trying to figure out square?
Yammer Dan Posted October 6, 2011 Author #346 Posted October 6, 2011 I was adding access for lines but need to find out where footer is going to end up. Last guy to look at it hasn't came back.
Venturous Randy Posted October 6, 2011 #347 Posted October 6, 2011 I know a wife of an old Air Force friend that lives in Jane Lew, WV and she is having the same problems you are having. Her husband died about 14 month's ago and she is trying to get some things done around the house. She is also having problems with contractors showing up and the same crap. Is this a West Virgina thing or the same everywhere? RandyA
Yammer Dan Posted October 6, 2011 Author #348 Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) I know it is almost impossible to get anything done here. I can do this stuff. Did it for a living a lot of years. Just can't handle that concrete now. And as for the thing being oput of square I would have worked with it and made it right. Everyone seems to want to completely redo it?? Getting ready to do a Post & Cripple system get some 2x4s and build the dam thing. I could do this with treated lumber and it would probally outlast me. Cost wouldn't be that much more if I hadn't thrown all that I have into this mess and still might be cheaper. I'm not quiting til I get a place to hide from the Warden!! And that last line is just a joke. I just want a place to do a couple bikes as I want to do them. Then I will probally sell them??? A Yammerized 1st Gen. Kind of like Garys (Dingy) but he has a ton more knowledge about making things work than I do. I want to do Stock 1st Gens at their best. And I can take you Dingy...:rotfl:in a 1/8th mile run. After that???? OK I'll shut up for now before I get myself in over my head.:whistling: Edited October 6, 2011 by Yammer Dan
Yammer Dan Posted October 8, 2011 Author #349 Posted October 8, 2011 Still cleaning up his mess. I'm ready to forget the concrete floor and just build one.
Yammer Dan Posted October 9, 2011 Author #350 Posted October 9, 2011 9 & 1/2 inches out. Don't seem like much but hard to cover up. Still trying to find someone that wants to work.
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