Yammer Dan Posted September 22, 2011 Author #251 Posted September 22, 2011 I ain't quit. Taking care of Warden got me sidetracked for a few days. Still looking for somebody that wants to work.
bkuhr Posted September 22, 2011 #252 Posted September 22, 2011 I'm digging the top 5 1/2" off, installing 2 x 6's and pouring without wire.. he said that just holds the pieces of concrete together if it breaks off but if its thick enough to begin with you won't need it...LOL Note: The drive way I have now is about 4" inches thick and is busted to he## and back! Guess that explains why my 24 x 48 garage floor 3-1/2" thick without wire that I paid $2500 for is all busted up, never could find that guy (contractor) again either. Just have to live with it for now, still better than dirt floor.
Trader Posted September 23, 2011 #253 Posted September 23, 2011 But that is why you saw stress joints into the floor .....if it cracks, it cracks where the saw kerfs are...nice straight lines and then they don't stand out.
Yammer Dan Posted September 23, 2011 Author #254 Posted September 23, 2011 "Guess that explains why my 24 x 48 garage floor 3-1/2" thick without wire that I paid $2500 for is all busted up, never could find that guy (contractor) again either. Just have to live with it for now, still better than dirt floor. " contractors that knowingly rip people off like that, need a pounding... They sure do!! Did you have the fiber in your concrete? I've already got the wire and am going to add fiber too.
Yammer Dan Posted September 23, 2011 Author #255 Posted September 23, 2011 Joe I would still put fiber in the driveway.
bkuhr Posted September 23, 2011 #256 Posted September 23, 2011 But that is why you saw stress joints into the floor .....if it cracks, it cracks where the saw kerfs are...nice straight lines and then they don't stand out. He did, 1 cut dividing 24x48 in 2ea 24x24. no cracks here, just everywhere else! They sure do!! Did you have the fiber in your concrete? I've already got the wire and am going to add fiber too. No wire no fiber. Wish I knew better at the time. 1 of the cracks is displaced so much, 1 side is 1" higher than the other side. Pretty sure I can get it fixed when I win the lottery:mo money:oh well life goes on, and still better than dirt floor. Ever realize how hard it is to take a pic of concrete?
friesman Posted September 23, 2011 #257 Posted September 23, 2011 He did, 1 cut dividing 24x48 in 2ea 24x24. no cracks here, just everywhere else 1 of the cracks is displaced so much, 1 side is 1" higher than the other side. QUOTE] I used some pourable levelling concrete to level a garage floor that looked like yours a few years ago. I just chipped off some high points and opened up some cracks to allow the levelling compound in, to fill the cracks and it turned out pretty good. Got no pics, dont have the house anymore. Brian
Yammer Dan Posted September 23, 2011 Author #258 Posted September 23, 2011 Raining. Good excuse not to mess with it today!!
MamaMo Posted September 23, 2011 #259 Posted September 23, 2011 Dan was hoping something would get done on that garage. Keeps up I am going to have to come for a cup of coffee and take your pics for you.
Flyinfool Posted September 23, 2011 #260 Posted September 23, 2011 He did, 1 cut dividing 24x48 in 2ea 24x24. no cracks here, just everywhere else! No wire no fiber. Wish I knew better at the time. 1 of the cracks is displaced so much, 1 side is 1" higher than the other side. Pretty sure I can get it fixed when I win the lottery:mo money:oh well life goes on, and still better than dirt floor. Ever realize how hard it is to take a pic of concrete? It is obviously easier than taking a pic of block and foundation work. :stickpoke: That offset you have is why the wire gets put in, so that when, not if, the concrete cracks it helps to keep the edges level. Using the right mix and right prep work will make it take longer before it cracks, but it will eventually crack. Nature will eventually erase all signs of human civilization from this planet. Only a few fossils will survive nature. I poured my slab 30 years ago and it just got its first crack 2 years ago. The wire has kept the edges perfectly level so far. Because of the site situation my slab varies from 2.5 inches thick at one end to 14 inches thick at the other end. It is the thick end that has the crack, go figure. It was to long ago and I could not tell you what mix or specification of concrete I ordered. Wisconsin winters are not gentle to much of anything and I am quite happy with how it has lasted.
Yammer Dan Posted September 23, 2011 Author #261 Posted September 23, 2011 I am going to use the fiber and the wire. Have a cousin that does a lot of this stuff and he claims the fiber is enough. Back when I did this stuff there wasn't such a thing. I'm going to have both. Home Depot, Lowe's and such places carry thr wire. What I'm using comes in 150'x10' rolls. About 100 bucks a roll. Fiber is less than 10 bucks per yard of concrete. Worth the extra expense when you consider the whole job. Wire is not that hard to handle. Put it down after you grade everything.With the wire and fiber I think there is a pretty good chance it will stay where poured.
dingy Posted September 23, 2011 #262 Posted September 23, 2011 How's the Warden doing Dan? Haven't seen much about her lately. Gary
Flyinfool Posted September 23, 2011 #263 Posted September 23, 2011 I'm sure you already know this, But remember to pull the wire up into the concrete as you pore so that the wire ends up IN the concrete and not under the concrete.
FuzzyRSTD Posted September 24, 2011 #264 Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) My floor is 6" thick and 28' wide x 40' long and it cracked. Sawed four times (two wide and two long). The carpenter whom was building for me at the time, told me it would be cracked in the morning at the entrance walk in door way because it was in the corner. He said there is no such thing of concrete without cracks. I used the wire also. It was cracked there the next morning. But has been fine since. Yammer I had my block laid to accommodate the concrete and still be around 4" above the concrete floor. Worked fine for when you want to wash the floor and not have to worry about the walls. I also would highly recommend 10' wide garage doors. And put them 48" apart if you are putting in two, this is very adequate and you will not have to worry about being to close. I would also recommend putting in drains, I did not and just sloped half my floor toward the doors. It works, but I wish I would have spent the extra 2-3 hundred dollars and did the drains. I have to use a squeegee to get all the water out. I also added a concrete porch while building the garage (4' wide x 6' long). Some said why have a porch on a garage ? , but I love it. I put my grill there and there is room for me sit in the dry and watch it rain. I can grill on rainy days by sitting the grill on the ground and standing on the porch under the roof. I do not have to stand in the rain while opening the entrance door. I can leave the storm door window up and door open for air and do not have to worry about the rain. I also put in plenty of electrical outlets, about 48" from the floor and 6' apart. I also put electrical outlets in the ceiling for my lights and just general use. I hung florescent lights and put plugs on them to just plug them up and still have the light switches to control each one. But I would have rather had regular bulbs, since the florescent interfere with the music radio reception while listening in the garage. I also used what are called attic trusses in the garage roof. This way you can put you in a $100.00 pull down set of steps and have plenty of up stairs storage to get the junk out of the garage floor. If you plan on putting in an air conditioner (highly recommend). I would recommend doing the opening in the wall as you frame the garage. I purchased one from Lowe's that also has electric heat. Works great for those times when you just want to warm up the garage to do a job or have a birthday party or gathering. I put 4" insulation in the walls and then a plastic moister barer and then 1/2" sheet rock. I put 6" in the ceiling and also sheet rock there. I had the sheet rock fellows to just go over it a couple times to get it looking decent and then I painted it.The sheet rock was cheaper than the 1/2 inch wafer board and does not soak up all that paint. My garage has never been below 38 degrees inside. I do not have heat on all the time, just when I want to spend some time there. The heat from my vehicle helps to keep it somewhat warm to. You will love the idea of a garage when it is cold and raining. So nice to go get in a decent warm vehicle when it is zero outside. I also ran my electric from the house box. Just get a heavy enough main line and add a 100 amp breaker to your 200 amp box in the house and go from there. Works everything fine; freezer/lights/electric garage doors/plugs/air conditioner. This allows you to get by with out a separate bill and meter for the garage. I also did put in a outlet for a 200 volt plug in welder, but never have used it. I also put a outside plug in on my garage porch. Use it a lot. Just some thoughts here for you and if you have any questions or just want to discuss something, feel free to give me a call Yammer. I always like to talk to people that have been there, when I am going to do something like this. [ATTACH]61003[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61004[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61005[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61006[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61007[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61008[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61009[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61010[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61011[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61012[/ATTACH] Fuzzy Edited September 24, 2011 by FuzzyRSTD
Sylvester Posted September 24, 2011 #265 Posted September 24, 2011 My floor is 6" thick and 28' wide x 40' long and it cracked. Sawed four times (two wide and two long). The carpenter whom was building for me at the time, told me it would be cracked in the morning at the entrance walk in door way because it was in the corner. He said there is no such thing of concrete without cracks. I used the wire also. It was cracked there the next morning. But has been fine since. Yammer I had my block laid to accommodate the concrete and still be around 4" above the concrete floor. Worked fine for when you want to wash the floor and not have to worry about the walls. I also would highly recommend 10' wide garage doors. And put them 48" apart if you are putting in two, this is very adequate and you will not have to worry about being to close. I would also recommend putting in drains, I did not and just sloped half my floor toward the doors. It works, but I wish I would have spent the extra 2-3 hundred dollars and did the drains. I have to use a squeegee to get all the water out. I also added a concrete porch while building the garage (4' wide x 6' long). Some said why have a porch on a garage ? , but I love it. I put my grill there and there is room for me sit in the dry and watch it rain. I can grill on rainy days by sitting the grill on the ground and standing on the porch under the roof. I do not have to stand in the rain while opening the entrance door. I can leave the storm door window up and door open for air and do not have to worry about the rain. I also put in plenty of electrical outlets, about 48" from the floor and 6' apart. I also put electrical outlets in the ceiling for my lights and just general use. I hung florescent lights and put plugs on them to just plug them up and still have the light switches to control each one. But I would have rather had regular bulbs, since the florescent interfere with the music radio reception while listening in the garage. I also used what are called attic trusses in the garage roof. This way you can put you in a $100.00 pull down set of steps and have plenty of up stairs storage to get the junk out of the garage floor. If you plan on putting in an air conditioner (highly recommend). I would recommend doing the opening in the wall as you frame the garage. I purchased one from Lowe's that also has electric heat. Works great for those times when you just want to warm up the garage to do a job or have a birthday party or gathering. I put 4" insulation in the walls and then a plastic moister barer and then 1/2" sheet rock. I put 6" in the ceiling and also sheet rock there. I had the sheet rock fellows to just go over it a couple times to get it looking decent and then I painted it. My garage has never been below 38 degrees inside. I do not have heat on all the time, just when I want to spend some time there. The heat from my vehicle helps to keep it somewhat warm to. You will love the idea of a garage when it is cold and raining. So nice to go get in a decent warm vehicle when it is zero outside. Just some thoughts here for you and if you have any questions or just want to discuss something, feel free to give me a call Yammer. I always like to talk to people that have been there, when I am going to do something like this. [ATTACH]61003[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61004[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61005[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61006[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61007[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61008[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61009[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61010[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61011[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]61012[/ATTACH] Fuzzy You don't belong on this site, your garage is too neat.
Yammer Dan Posted September 24, 2011 Author #266 Posted September 24, 2011 Thats a showplace James. I have a lot of ideas and think I finally found another contractor. He hasn't looked at it yet but I think he knows what he is doing. The metal in mine is supposed to extend down over the edge of the pad. This is why my pad needs to be on the money. Trick for the doors I learnt long ago is where the garage door meets the floor, when you pour leave a groove for the door to sit in where it hits the floor and turn both ends of the groove til it drains off the pad. You don't have water blowing in during storms. What really tics me is not being able to do it myself. I know how to do this but if you remember my accident besides the leg he also broke my hip and shoulder. I get around but the more moving the more pills!! Got to admitt I can't do it!! Just makes me madder than hell to look at this mess and know how to do it and can't. I'm ready to start myself anyway. I will get this done and screw a bunch of worthless pics til I have something to show!! I'll go back to my corner now and wait to watch WVU kick the Crap out of LSU!!! Sorry for the rant but I am getting fed up with this dam mess.
FuzzyRSTD Posted September 24, 2011 #267 Posted September 24, 2011 You don't belong on this site, your garage is too neat. Not really Sylvester. It is kinda junked up right now. The pics where not that good either. But I am proud of my garage and blessed and thankful to have it. My wife and I really love the garage, one of the best investments we ever made. She helped me a lot with ideas. I done all the finish work myself. The windows and all the trim. I painted my trim camouflage. I did organize everything and put up the cabinets and work bench. I got the cabinets from my brother in law whom tares down houses for right of ways for the state. Also got the shelving from him for cheap. How about some pictures of your garage Sylvester ? Fuzzy
hog Posted September 25, 2011 #268 Posted September 25, 2011 About 8 years ago I built my shop.Did much planning and research to determine how big to make it,what size door or doors etc. plus got plenty of advice from co workers friends etc. I decided on a metal building with a 4" concrete floor 24'x36' with a 16'x8' overhead door.A lot of people told me when you decide how big to make it go 10' bigger and put in a floor drain and go with a 10' door.I used to pour concrete for a living when I was much younger so I did the floor and footings myself and blind seamed the floor,(which is using a trowel when the concrete is not quite hard and making a cut through the concrete and then troweling over the cut to close the finish up and when it cracks it will crack in a straight line and not have a rough edge for rollers on a tool box to catch on)plus there will not be a big gap in the cracks or gap as in saw cutting.But I did not take everyones advise and now I wish I would have went bigger and made the door higher and put in a floor drain.It is a mess in the winter when snow and water melts of and refreezes on the floor.Plus a 4 wheel drive pickup with a lift kit will not fit under my door.Once I got all my stuff in it drill press, band saw,welder cutt-off saw,grinder,air comppressor,plus all my woodworking tools and parts washer tool boxes etc. I lost a lot of room in it.Better to go too big than not enough.
Yammer Dan Posted September 25, 2011 Author #269 Posted September 25, 2011 Joe Home Depot has rolls of wire 150'x5' for around 100 bucks and they give Veterans 10 per cent off if you have card. Its a pretty heavy mesh.
Venturous Randy Posted September 25, 2011 #270 Posted September 25, 2011 I'll go back to my corner now and wait to watch WVU kick the Crap out of LSU!!! And I bet this did not make you feel any better! RandyA
Yammer Dan Posted September 25, 2011 Author #271 Posted September 25, 2011 And I bet this did not make you feel any better! RandyA They did beat them everywhere but the scoreboard. 5 turnovers you can't beat anybody. When they bring their refs with them!!!
chabicheka Posted September 25, 2011 #272 Posted September 25, 2011 Thanks James. And I'll get some pics of it sooner or later. Pics of a pile of dirt and cinderblock scattered around ain't much. What you talking about??? All we want to see ( pics) is a closeup of your face to see what you look like now, going through all these hasltles.....
Yammer Dan Posted September 25, 2011 Author #273 Posted September 25, 2011 Now you know why the camera is BROKE!!!
Yammer Dan Posted September 26, 2011 Author #274 Posted September 26, 2011 Had contractor with a great rep around here call me this evening. I had tried to call him a couple of times but couldn't catch him. He is busy but I think I might finally be getting somewhere. He said he will look at it this week.
Yammer Dan Posted September 26, 2011 Author #275 Posted September 26, 2011 Now it has me up in the midddle of the night thinking again. New contractor make it bigger???
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