Lower tree bearing question

[1BigDog]

Any suggestions on removing and replacing the lower bearing on the lower tree? I have called a few cycle shops and all wanted at least 40 bucks to do it IF it comes off smoothly! More if not. One shop said they wanted double because I wanted the old bearing off first, then take it home to polish the lower tree and return it to them to install the new bearing. Thats 80 bucks min labor! Got to be a better (cheaper) way. Any suggestions?

 

The races look relatively easy to come out.

[Sylvester]

Do it yourself. Go to the tech articles and get a printout. It is not a simple job but can be done.

 

[Freebird]

WOW....Ruffy....if they will do it for even $80.00, that is dirt cheap. I don't think they have any idea what they are getting into. Even getting to the lower bearing on these bikes is a pretty good sized job. I don't know of any shops that will even pack the bearings for anywhere close to that price. I figured you would be looking at several hundred dollars to do that job. The complete fairing has to be unbolted to drop the forks out and get the bearing off.

[dingy]

WOW....Ruffy....if they will do it for even $80.00, that is dirt cheap. I don't think they have any idea what they are getting into. Even getting to the lower bearing on these bikes is a pretty good sized job. I don't know of any shops that will even pack the bearings for anywhere close to that price. I figured you would be looking at several hundred dollars to do that job. The complete fairing has to be unbolted to drop the forks out and get the bearing off.

 

 

Donald,

 

I think he means just pressing it off the shaft, when you hand them the triple tree

 

Take your meds, lay down, you'll be OK.

 

Gary

[Freebird]

Well in that case....uh........

 

 

never mind.....

[Guest]

Donald,

 

I think he means just pressing it off the shaft, when you hand them the triple tree

 

Take your meds, lay down, you'll be OK.

 

Gary

 

Yep, thats what I meant.

 

From the responses it looks like ill have to wing this one alone. Not a problem.....Later.....

Edited June 29, 2011 by Ruffy

[Guest]

You know, I probably should wait a bit till im in a better frame of mind but here goes anyway. We all post things here to either offer help or seek help. When we do post something asking for help we are usually in a tight spot and need some help fairly quickly. Im tackling something that I have never done before and I know that out of the 182 views to this tthread at least ONE or TWO of you have encountered this problem, yet have chosen to remain silent. ANY advice would have been deeply appreciated but the silence was deafening. Yes, I did do some searches but I was still unsure of what I needed to do properly so I posted here. I dont know if its just me, or maybe no one genuinely had no info to offer. Either way, I figured some of it out but ill guess ill just figure the rest out for myself.

[dingy]

Sorry Ruffy.

 

I have never had to do it. Was going to do it this weekend but I decided mine were in good enough shape and put it back together with the old ones. I have a new set of OEM head bearings for sale now.

 

It seems like it would take an arbor press to accomplish.

 

Gary

[Freebird]

I've never done it either. Very sorry Ruffy, I hope that somebody can help.

[RSTDdog]

From the Yamaha service manual page 7-64 they say and I quote "use a floor chisel and a hammer to remove the race (they mean bearing) from the lower bracket (tree)" There is a anice line drawing of a chisel and hammer being applied to the lower bearing on the tree. If you don't believe me, there is a post in the RSTD forum with a link to download the manual. Its the RSTD supplement plus the main RSV manual. 63MB Here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=601159#post601159

 

No acrobat pro at home, but tomorrow I can attach just the couple pages from the manual.

 

The service manual suggestion would work. You want a floor tile or similar chisel with a long slope to it and work evenly around.

 

The better way IMO is to use a bearing splitter. This is a tool used to remove the roller bearing pressed onto the end of crankshafts typically found on Outboards. Two halves each with a semi-circular shape taper starting from a sharp edge and becoming thicker. it has two bolts through the ends you use to tighten the halves together and it gradually pushes the bearing off. On stubborn ones (on crankshafts) I have had to use a splitter in conjunction with a press and the blue wrench. Unlikely you will need to do this on a Lower triple tree bearing. You might be able to borrow rent one from Advanced Auto Parts or Auto Zone.

 

First time seeing this. Hope its not too late.

 

RSTDdog

Edited June 30, 2011 by RSTDdog
added link to DL the manual

[Guest]

From the Yamaha service manual page 7-64 they say and I quote "use a floor chisel and a hammer to remove the race (they mean bearing) from the lower bracket (tree)" There is a anice line drawing of a chisel and hammer being applied to the lower bearing on the tree. If you don't believe me, there is a post in the RSTD forum with a link to download the manual. Its the RSTD supplement plus the main RSV manual. 63MB Here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=601159#post601159

 

No acrobat pro at home, but tomorrow I can attach just the couple pages from the manual.

 

The service manual suggestion would work. You want a floor tile or similar chisel with a long slope to it and work evenly around.

 

The better way IMO is to use a bearing splitter. This is a tool used to remove the roller bearing pressed onto the end of crankshafts typically found on Outboards. Two halves each with a semi-circular shape taper starting from a sharp edge and becoming thicker. it has two bolts through the ends you use to tighten the halves together and it gradually pushes the bearing off. On stubborn ones (on crankshafts) I have had to use a splitter in conjunction with a press and the blue wrench. Unlikely you will need to do this on a Lower triple tree bearing. You might be able to borrow rent one from Advanced Auto Parts or Auto Zone.

 

First time seeing this. Hope its not too late.

 

RSTDdog

 

Yep, your too late but thats exactly what I did. I used a chisel to move it away from the base and was able to work it up about 1". I then used a cutting wheel on a dremel to remove the bearing cage and finally cut through the bearing itself, splitting it without damaging the stem. Worked like a charm. The races will be another thing though. Manual also says to tap them out with a drift punch and hammer but the races themselves have no real surface for a punch to get a solid footing on. There is only 2 spots front and rear with maybe a 1/4" space for a flat chisel and very little "ledge" to give it a solid hit. I figure that ill just use the dremel again with a small cutting wheel and carefully cut 2 slots in the race and work it out that way.

 

Ill place the new races in the freezer overnight and heat up the outer race seat with a heat gun then go for it. I got all the time needed to play with this so......

 

Thanks Derrek!!

[capn eddie]

when i did mine i used a dremal tool with a cutting disk and cut it in stages first the outer retainer that holds the bearings once thats out then i scored the remaning metal with dremel tool and used a small chisle or screwdriver to split it in half. To get the new bearing on i heated up the new one in some oil and slid it on. to get the races out i used a long punch about 1 foot long and used the two spots ruffy talked about and drove them out.

Edited June 30, 2011 by cap'n eddie

[Guest]

Got the races out today. Bought a new punch yesterday and it took about 5 minutes. Thanks for the help Derrek, Kevin and Eddie.

[Bubber]

FYI: bearing material is typically 52100 and it is 60 RHc which is harder than a wedding night P@$$%.

 

Which means being that hard it can break or crack easily (the bearing that is).

 

Since you have it out already, use something soft to but it back in with and put it in straight. Brass punch works good.

Good luck with your project. Looks like your doing fine.

 

PS: you do know that it is the 4th of July weekend ......right?

 

 

Bubber

[Guest]

FYI: bearing material is typically 52100 and it is 60 RHc which is harder than a wedding night P@$$%.

 

Which means being that hard it can break or crack easily (the bearing that is).

 

Since you have it out already, use something soft to but it back in with and put it in straight. Brass punch works good.

Good luck with your project. Looks like your doing fine.

 

PS: you do know that it is the 4th of July weekend ......right?

 

 

Bubber

 

Dang Bubber, you must have slept at a Holiday Inn last night and wait...did you marry one of those Pygmies to fully know what a wedding night p@$% is too?

 

I was thinking of using a schedule 40 PVC pipe to knock the bearing home but I may just invest in a brass punch as well. As far as the races go, im making a press plate with a 14" threaded rod to draw it into place. So much for race relations.....