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Posted

some advice needed, i used a home made manometer to sync my carbs. i set them all to the front carb. on the left side, is this a very dependable way of doing a sync, the manometer seems to be very sensative just touching the screws with a screwdiver affects it. bike seems to be running well revs up fast then right back to idle. what do you all think. Lee

Posted

Lee,

 

Glad you got your idle fixed. The only problem I see would be that you can only see 1 cylinder at a time. When you adjust any of the individual carbs, the speed of the engine changes, which changes the vacuum @ the left front cylinder. That's why I like 4 gauges--so I can see all 4 cylinders at one time.

 

Frank

Posted

thanks frank you are right had to go around about 3 times before i got them all to read consistent . i think i had a bad head gasket when they were synced. a couple years ago.they seemed to be pretty far out or whack . it really sounds good now ,no popping sounds and back to starting in about half a crank. still got the road test to do , hopefully that goes good. Lee

Posted
some advice needed, i used a home made manometer to sync my carbs. i set them all to the front carb. on the left side, is this a very dependable way of doing a sync, the manometer seems to be very sensative just touching the screws with a screwdiver affects it. bike seems to be running well revs up fast then right back to idle. what do you all think. Lee

 

Most likely the synch is still way off. I tried using a home made manometer on a Virago that has just two carbs. I thought I had it "close enough," but when a friend came over with his synch tools, I got a real surprise.

 

When I bought my Venture last November, the next thing I bought was a Carb Tune. It costs around $100.00 and I had to wait for it to come from England, but it is well worth the cost and the wait. In less than 20 minutes I had the engine purring like a kitten.

 

Shortly after that I got to synch a Honda Shadow Spirit, a Kawasaki Voyager, and a Yamaha RSTD.

Posted

lee ray, I also use a 2 bottle manometer that I made. As you say, just touching the screws will make a change. It takes three hose changes but it works great for me. I do set the idle around 2500 rpm to do the sync though.

Posted

thanks for the help everyone took the bike out today runs like a beast .. only problem is i got home and left fork seal leaking badly figure at least its a cheap fix just alot of work did new bushing and peogressive spring a few years ago just sitting prolly hard on seals. Lee

Posted
lee ray, I also use a 2 bottle manometer that I made. As you say, just touching the screws will make a change. It takes three hose changes but it works great for me. I do set the idle around 2500 rpm to do the sync though.

 

I do my initial sync at idle, which is about 750 /800 RPM's for me. When I am satified they are balanced. I will bring the RPM's up to around 3,000 and see if they are still close. I sync at idle because I want to know at that point that I don't have a cylinder starving for air. This is because this is where you are at when you are coasting. To me, doing the only sync at 2,500 RPM's is too high.

RandyA

Posted

So when you do a sync at idle and everything is the way you want it, and then do a sync at 3000, and you find you have to make a change,,,,,,,,,,, guess what, your idle sync is now out.

Good point though,,, if you are good at idle, but out at 3000, then you have an issue with the linkage and that can't be fixed with an adjustment.

Now for me, the idle sync is the important spec. That's where I need the engine to run perfect, for if I get a hesitation there, or a miss, that could throw me over, or kill the scoot in the middle of an intersection,,,,, and somehow, I feel that would be paramount.

Posted

I bought an '84 Venture Royale Saturday that's been sitting up forever. It misses terribly on acceleration, backfires, idles rough... I'm pretty positive it needs carbs synced at the very least. Anyone able to recommend someone in the Chattanooga, Tn area to do it, and what would be a fair price?

 

Thx in advance...

Posted

Seeing as it has been setting up for so long, I doubt that just a carb sync is going to correct the problems. It is a good place to start and will only take a few minutes to try it but most likely, you are going to have some carb work ahead of you. At the very least, you probably have some bad diaphragms. It is easy to pull them out and take a look. Any problems will probably be obvious but you may need to hold them up to the light and search for pin holes and etc. Most likely, in addition to bad diaphragms, you will probably end up needing to pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning. If it has been sitting a long time then the old gas has probably gunked everything up.

Posted
Seeing as it has been setting up for so long, I doubt that just a carb sync is going to correct the problems. It is a good place to start and will only take a few minutes to try it but most likely, you are going to have some carb work ahead of you. At the very least, you probably have some bad diaphragms. It is easy to pull them out and take a look. Any problems will probably be obvious but you may need to hold them up to the light and search for pin holes and etc. Most likely, in addition to bad diaphragms, you will probably end up needing to pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning. If it has been sitting a long time then the old gas has probably gunked everything up.

Yah. I figured as much, lol... Can you perhaps direct me to any articles on how to do these types of things? carb check/rebuild/sync/etc? I'm not afraid to tackle these types of things, but some good instruction is always appreciated.

 

Thanks again for all of the help.

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