how many miles with no valve adjustment??

[allwx]

The tool was the easy part, putting the gasket and valve cover back on was the pain.

 

True, that is a PITA!

 

My tool may be defective. I bought it back in 1998 to use on my 97 RSTD. When I did my first adjustment on that bike, I had a lot of trouble with the tool edge slipping off of one or the other bucket. After awhile I discovered that if it didn't work well going in from one direction, it usually worked better the other direction. Then, I found that it helped a lot to make sure the tool working surface was set towards the shim opposite the one being removed. Once the shim comes out, if the tool is a little closer to that bucket, it might move in to the space where the shim was, and pop off the other bucket. Because of these problems I've had, using the tool is really a hassle for me. I'm old and have an old man's back. All that hunkering down, peering into those small spaces, back and forth, back and forth, seems like a WHOLE lot more work than just removing the cams. However I have not removed the cams on this engine, so maybe there's more to it than seems from the book procedure.

 

The fact that others are not having these same problems must mean that my tool is toast. Rather than buy another, I think that next time, maybe in 3 years, I will just remove the cams and bypass the tool altogether..

[BradT]

This is why I like the idea of removing the cams.

It doesn't appear to me from the cam removal procedure that removing the cams is all that hard.

 

I am not fussy on that tool either and thought the same as you. Never tried it but it is not that hard to remove the cams and putting them in is not bad, but the chain tensioner can be a bear. This when the engine was on the ground, and I can only think it would be worse when the engine is in the frame.

 

FYI If you go this route you do not have to remove the cam sprocket as mentioned in the manual to remove the cam.

 

Brad

[Ozlander]

I adjusted my valves this summer at 80,000 miles. Had three that were a hair tight and a couple that was a hair loose.

Been checking them about every 16,000 miles. Finally got to the point that I had to bite the bullet.

Bought the gaskets from Skydoc and borrowed his shim kit. Thanks again.

[allwx]

I am not fussy on that tool either and thought the same as you. Never tried it but it is not that hard to remove the cams and putting them in is not bad, but the chain tensioner can be a bear. This when the engine was on the ground, and I can only think it would be worse when the engine is in the frame.

 

FYI If you go this route you do not have to remove the cam sprocket as mentioned in the manual to remove the cam.

 

Brad

 

Thanks for the info. did you remove your cams? If you don't mind my asking, did you do it to adjust valves? Or some other reason?

[twigg]

Thanks for the info. did you remove your cams? If you don't mind my asking, did you do it to adjust valves? Or some other reason?

 

The tool works just fine if you are patient, and line it up correctly.

 

This is an easy job which can be made as complicated as you want it to be. Removing the cams is one of those complications.

 

You do not need to remove the cams, and I can't, for the life of me, think of a single good reason to add this step or three.

 

If you have another reason to remove the cams, then by all means kill two birds with one stone ... otherwise ...

[allwx]

Yeah, the more I think about it the more I'm sure I've got a defective tool. It might've come that way, or, more likely, I damaged it somehow by being hamfisted on my first try.

 

Still, it pisses me off that this tool is so hard to use. The fact that no others seem to be having the same problem reduces the possibilities to two: 1. defective tool, or 2. lame mechanic. I prefer to believe in #1, naturally, but knowing how many times I've bunged things up from being a dope, admit to the possibility of #2.

[N3FOL]

After reading VGoose's thread on valve adjustment in the tech section, I feel comfortable removing almost all the parts except the carburetors. It is good reading about valve adjustment, but physically watching someone actually do the job makes everything what I read fall into place. (Still hoping that someone in the NJ, PA or MD area is getting ready to do a valve adjustment)...any MD in the area...Texas is just way too far for me to meet the guys.

 

I am just curious why a quart of coolant has to be drained. After reading and seriously thinking about the importance of a valve adjustment, I am determined to do it this time on a motorcycle. I've done valve adjustments and shim replacement on my 95 SHO many many times in the past.

[V7Goose]

After reading VGoose's thread on valve adjustment in the tech section, I feel comfortable removing almost all the parts except the carburetors. It is good reading about valve adjustment, but physically watching someone actually do the job makes everything what I read fall into place. (Still hoping that someone in the NJ, PA or MD area is getting ready to do a valve adjustment)...any MD in the area...Texas is just way too far for me to meet the guys.

 

I am just curious why a quart of coolant has to be drained. After reading and seriously thinking about the importance of a valve adjustment, I am determined to do it this time on a motorcycle. I've done valve adjustments and shim replacement on my 95 SHO many many times in the past.

About a third of the coolant has to be drained because the rear valve cover cannot be pulled out to either side without first moving it forward or back - there is just not enough clearance between the engine and the frame over the rear cover to raise it above the cam sprockets. So to move the cover, you have to disconnect the coolant return hose from the rear head. This is not necessary for the front cover.

 

As for removing the carbs, that is really very simple once everything else is off. Since the carbs are all taken off as a single unit (the entire carb rack), the only things needed to remove them after the air intake system is off is:

 

1. Remove the two throttle cables (note here that it is actually easier to wait to remove the throttle cables until the rack is slightly pulled out to the left so you have a bit more room to get the cable end loose).
   
2. Unplug the TPS and carb heater plugs.
   
3. Disconnect the fuel line and two vent hoses.
   
4. Loosen the hose clamp under each carb and then just pull up on each side (one side at a time) until the carbs "pop" loose from the intake joint. Then the whole rack comes right out the left side.
   

It is possible to take the rear cover off by removing the battery covers and coolant tank, but I feel it is much easier to do this job by just pulling the carbs. And I also strongly recommend that you always take the little bit of extra time at this point to pull the float bowls off the carbs and clean the jets while you already have the bike torn down. Certainly this is the time to get those float levels set correctly if that has not already been done.

 

Finally, note that pulling the carbs and even resetting the float levels and taking out jets to clean them will have NO impact on your carb sync - I have never had it change from pulling the carbs.

Goose

[Rick Haywood]

I just turned over 27,000 on mine and went straight to the shop with it. They gave me a price of $500 plus shims. If it weren't under warranty I would do it myself. As it is I fully expect to have to re-sync my carbs and adjust throttle play,... things like that, when I get her back. They have had her a month already but also doing clutch basket and rear shock warranty work. I do miss her sooo!

 

I always wondered why so many motorcycle shops think it's OK to keep a bike a month or more for repairs. There is no way we would tolorate our cars being in the shop for a month for tires, valves and shocks but yet I here this all the time. Anyone know why they do this? It doesn't take a month to do the work

[N3FOL]

Thanks for your input Goose. I am slowly gaining some confidence to tear down the carb removal portion. Looking at the setup just looks a little intimidating. As for the rear valve covers, I will weigh my options whether I go for draining some coolant or simply remove the coolant reservoir and battery cover for this part.I will have to read more about resetting the floats and the best way to clean the jets. My bike currently have 24.5K miles...parts ordering should come soon.

 

Does anyone have a comprehensive list of parts needed for the valve :fingers-crossed-emoadjustment?

 

I'm looking at within 3 months, I seriously have to do this task.

[V7Goose]

Thanks for your input Goose. I am slowly gaining some confidence to tear down the carb removal portion. Looking at the setup just looks a little intimidating. As for the rear valve covers, I will weigh my options whether I go for draining some coolant or simply remove the coolant reservoir and battery cover for this part.I will have to read more about resetting the floats and the best way to clean the jets. My bike currently have 24.5K miles...parts ordering should come soon.

 

Does anyone have a comprehensive list of parts needed for the valve :fingers-crossed-emoadjustment?

 

I'm looking at within 3 months, I seriously have to do this task.

You cannot get the rear valve cover off without draining some coolant. Period. I don't care if you try to take it off by rolling it forward or backward, you cannot do either without removing the coolant return hose, so if you do not drain the coolant first, the bike will drain it for you.

 

Comprehensive parts list for a valve adjustment: two valve cover gaskets. That's it.

Goose

[allwx]

Thanks for your input Goose. I am slowly gaining some confidence to tear down the carb removal portion. Looking at the setup just looks a little intimidating. As for the rear valve covers, I will weigh my options whether I go for draining some coolant or simply remove the coolant reservoir and battery cover for this part.I will have to read more about resetting the floats and the best way to clean the jets. My bike currently have 24.5K miles...parts ordering should come soon.

 

Does anyone have a comprehensive list of parts needed for the valve :fingers-crossed-emoadjustment?

 

I'm looking at within 3 months, I seriously have to do this task.

 

Personally, I wait until I know what shims I'll need before ordering. That way, I can order the whole sheebang at once.

 

I did my last valve adj in June. I had changed out my coolant in March, so it was fresh. I went ahead and drained it all out, like the book sez, though you don't need to drain it all. Coolant is still fairly cheap, and replacing it in this motor is simple, so I just look at it as part of a good flush. Won't need to be done again for a couple of years.

[RandyR]

Personally, I wait until I know what shims I'll need before ordering. That way, I can order the whole sheebang at once.

 

I did my last valve adj in June. I had changed out my coolant in March, so it was fresh. I went ahead and drained it all out, like the book sez, though you don't need to drain it all. Coolant is still fairly cheap, and replacing it in this motor is simple, so I just look at it as part of a good flush. Won't need to be done again for a couple of years.

 

If you do that, your bike will be apart for a week or more, rather than 1 day.

 

There are a couple of shim + tool kits floating around where you should be able to get it done in 1 shot and then replace any short shims in the kit after the fact. I have one, skydoc_17 has one if you buy your gaskets from him.

 

The carbs do not have to come off, but its easier to work on if they are off. And you could work them over if you want to.

[N3FOL]

You cannot get the rear valve cover off without draining some coolant. Period. I don't care if you try to take it off by rolling it forward or backward, you cannot do either without removing the coolant return hose, so if you do not drain the coolant first, the bike will drain it for you.

 

Comprehensive parts list for a valve adjustment: two valve cover gaskets. That's it.

Goose

 

Sounds like there is no way around it. With your advice, I will drain the coolant and replace after. My last coolant replacement was last year this time. This may also be the best time to replace 2 air filters. I've blown them with compressed air, but I think Yamaha recommends to replace air filters after 24K.

 

Parts: In addition to the gasket, I guess I will need a small amount of RTV upon installation of the gasket. Do you use RTV?

[N3FOL]

Personally, I wait until I know what shims I'll need before ordering. That way, I can order the whole sheebang at once.

 

I did my last valve adj in June. I had changed out my coolant in March, so it was fresh. I went ahead and drained it all out, like the book sez, though you don't need to drain it all. Coolant is still fairly cheap, and replacing it in this motor is simple, so I just look at it as part of a good flush. Won't need to be done again for a couple of years.

 

I agree. I was able to purchase coolant on sale at Advance Auto for a little over 5 bucks last season. My plan of attack would be to have the shim kit on hand + gaskets and then start tearing down the bike for valve check/adjustment. After I have determined what size shims I would need (chances are it may be a smaller size to the installed shim - if not mistaken), the shim kit may have the correct size...if not...off to the dealer to order them. (this may delay me for a couple of days). Resetting the floats and cleaning the jets - need to learn more about this.

[N3FOL]

If you do that, your bike will be apart for a week or more, rather than 1 day.

 

There are a couple of shim + tool kits floating around where you should be able to get it done in 1 shot and then replace any short shims in the kit after the fact. I have one, skydoc_17 has one if you buy your gaskets from him.

 

The carbs do not have to come off, but its easier to work on if they are off. And you could work them over if you want to.

 

 

Hello RandyR. I will definitely keep you and SkyDoc in mind for the shim kit. In a few months towards Fall Season or earlier, I would like to pm either one of you to borrow the kit. How much time in advance should I send a PM in order to reserve a spot for the kit?

[etcswjoe]

I need to do both my 99's one has 34k the other 30K so I will be doing it myseldf since I do not want to shell out the money to do two at once, Is the Gasket below the right one? I looked at the price of shims and they are not cheap either, hopefully I will not need to adjust many.

 

GASKET, HD.COVER

1194643

(284464-001) http://a2.bikebandit.com/img/spacer.gif http://a2.bikebandit.com/img/spacer.gif$28.21

[slickster]

I did a valve adjustment 10K ago at 30K on the bike...there is a great kit available from someone on this forum...pretty easy job, did not remove carbs, measured the clearance, removed the shim if out of spec, added or subtracted needed thickness and selected proper shim...no biggie...maybe 3 hr job...all tools and shims in kit...don't put it off...if you burn a valve you will be sorry....

[kyle]

WOW, sure alot of opinions on this subject...thanx to eveyone who opined. I think i will wait until 50,000 miles to check them or just buy something different, who knows. I do maint. this bike every year with fresh fluids and plugs and seafoam ect.... so "I" am very confident that 50k will be no big deal... thanx again for allthe input

[N3FOL]

So it is possible to do valve check without removing the carb assembly...but I have to see this myself...looks like there is not a lot of space to work around w/o the carb assembly removed.

I initially plan to perform my valve check around 50K as well, but this time I think it is worth the trouble to do it in time.

Fwiw, if adjustments are not checked and adjusted as necessary...I think there is a good possibility that the cam lobes can be damaged and shim deterioration may occur. (My guess)