Checked rear brakes, and Avon tires.

[FuzzyRSTD]

I read a post from Goose and he stated that you can inspect the rear pads from behind the right rear bag. I did as he said and it was no problem. Just get you a long screw driver and pop the plastic cover off, then have a bright small flashlight and your spectacles to see the brake lining. The cover pops right back on with the use of the screw driver to push down upon the cover once placed in position. My pads where in the 1/4" use range. The inside was around 3/16" while the outside was 1/4".

So for those of you whom have changed and have experience with brakes. I am wondering though, just how much pad can I depend upon until change time ? Do the original pads have rib-bits in them, or are they clued? If clued then I may be looking at about another 4,000 miles till change time? The bike has 13,000 on it now, 2007 model.

I also checked my Avon Venom tires with a bright flashlight for cracks. There was none. So I am pleased. They are two years old and 8,000 miles. So I am happy about that.

But I am somewhat concerned about the brakes, since I have no prier experience with them. Thanks to Goose for the information on checking the pads. Thanks to all in advance for any help deciding on the pads to change. I do know that when I change, I think I need to use the EBC double H sintered pads. I saw some here in the classifieds for $ 27.00 .

 

Fuzzy

Edited June 27, 2011 by FuzzyRSTD

[hcdagen]

The pads are glued on,and for all the more money involved,not a place to cheep out.The brake pads are super easy to change once the right saddlebag is off so why wear them to the bitter end and chance scoring a rotor.Pop the plastic cover off and you will see what looks like 2-5.5 mm bolt heads.They are'nt really bolts and can be turned with a needle nose pliers so that you can acess a small clip on the inboard side of the caliper frame.Pull the clip,then remove the"bolt".Do that with both bolt heads and the pads will lift right out.Put everthing back the same way it came out and you're done.Have fun and good luck,Herb.

Edited June 18, 2011 by hcdagen
more info

[FuzzyRSTD]

The pads are glued on,and for all the more money involved,not a place to cheep out.The brake pads are super easy to change once the right saddlebag is off so why wear them to the bitter end and chance scoring a rotor.Pop the plastic cover off and you will see what looks like 2-5.5 mm bolt heads.They are'nt really bolts and can be turned with a needle nose pliers so that you can acess a small clip on the inboard side of the caliper frame.Pull the clip,then remove the"bolt".Do that with both bolt heads and the pads will lift right out.Put everthing back the same way it came out and you're done.Have fun and good luck,Herb.

Thanks Herb, I ordered the pads from Chad at Power Sports of New York here in the classified section. I ordered the EBC sintered double HH . Should have them soon and will be installing these bad boys myself.

 

I have never ever, in all the years of owning/riding a motorcycle, put a set of brake shoes on one. All that I ever owned had drum type brakes in the rear and they would last forever it seems or at least the 30,000 mile that I put on two different Honda bikes. So about 60,000 - 70,000 mile total of riding both of them.

 

So I am gonna say that some of this new fangled disc brake stuff is another money hungry invention for someone. I never had any problem locking the rear of the bike up when needed with the drum brakes. Just a simple adjustment ever now and a great while is all they ever needed.

 

So I will soon be replacing the brakes and thanks for instructions. Is any needed lubrication or cleaning or sanding that needs to be done while I am doing this ?

[RandyR]

when you get the new EBC's compare the pad thickness to how much you said you saw still on the origonal pads.

 

I think you'll find that you still have 50% left.

 

If so, I'd just rotate the inner and outer pad and keep the new ones for a while.

 

Check the pads every oil change and you should be able to keep from going down to the metal.

 

Check brake fluid level and coloration. If its dark, its time to flush the brake fluid.

 

There's nothing to lube. Although some people put anti-squeak lube on the back of the pads.

[FuzzyRSTD]

when you get the new EBC's compare the pad thickness to how much you said you saw still on the origonal pads.

 

I think you'll find that you still have 50% left.

 

If so, I'd just rotate the inner and outer pad and keep the new ones for a while.

 

Check the pads every oil change and you should be able to keep from going down to the metal.

 

Check brake fluid level and coloration. If its dark, its time to flush the brake fluid.

 

There's nothing to lube. Although some people put anti-squeak lube on the back of the pads.

 

Thanks RandyR, I will do exactly that.

[Long Tall]

when you get the new EBC's compare the pad thickness to how much you said you saw still on the origonal pads.

 

I think you'll find that you still have 50% left.

 

If so, I'd just rotate the inner and outer pad and keep the new ones for a while.

 

Check the pads every oil change and you should be able to keep from going down to the metal.

 

Check brake fluid level and coloration. If its dark, its time to flush the brake fluid.

 

There's nothing to lube. Although some people put anti-squeak lube on the back of the pads.

 

 

Check out an old post of mine..(below)...IF...IF...IF..I had rotated the pads, I would have gotten a few more miles out of them...I put on the EBC HH like you have and I will rotate every year from now on....

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33832

 

Long Tall

Lynchburg, VA

[TEW47]

Do what Taz suggested and put a 42thousandth thick washer between the caliper and the frame. This will straighten out the caliper and the pads will wear the same on both sides. I did this last year and just checked and they are both pads are wearing the same.

 

tew47

[FuzzyRSTD]

Just received my rear pads today from Pioneer Sports. Will be going down to the garage to take off the right hard bag and removing the old pads to get a better look. Since I now have the new ones to kinda compare, then I will either rotate the old ones or replace.

[MidnightSpook]

I just installed my new Avon tires on Friday and went with the smaller front and stock rear.....love them. While I already had a full set of pads on order, I just couldn't see putting a pad back in that was less that 1/8" thick. Went to the local Yamaha shop and picked up a set for the rear. When you think about the safety issues, break pads are chump chage in the long run.

[FuzzyRSTD]

when you get the new EBC's compare the pad thickness to how much you said you saw still on the origonal pads.

 

I think you'll find that you still have 50% left.

 

If so, I'd just rotate the inner and outer pad and keep the new ones for a while.

 

Check the pads every oil change and you should be able to keep from going down to the metal.

 

Check brake fluid level and coloration. If its dark, its time to flush the brake fluid.

 

There's nothing to lube. Although some people put anti-squeak lube on the back of the pads.

 

Randy, the inside pad was at 1/8" towards the front of bike and only about 1/16" at the rear end of pad. So I replaced the pads. I am going to do the fluid change in both the brakes and clutch. Thanks, Fuzzy

 

The outside pad compared to new[ATTACH]58686[/ATTACH]

 

The inside pad compared to new, the other end is only 1/16".[ATTACH]58687[/ATTACH]

Edited July 16, 2011 by FuzzyRSTD

[CaptainJoe]

Pulled mine earlier this week at 7800 miles and both sides were wearing the same. 7/32nds...

 

Know i've said this before but, you really need to but a few dops of dot fluid on the caliper cylinders to keep them from rusting/getting dirty. I turned caliper upside down took an old welding rod dipped it in the dot fluid and left it drip on all four cylinders...

could have cleaned with a q-tip and dot but they weren't that bad...

[CaptainJoe]

Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm?

"Do what Taz suggested and put a 42thousandth thick washer between the caliper and the frame. This will straighten out the caliper and the pads will wear the same on both sides. I did this last year and just checked and they are both pads are wearing the same."

 

It would seem that some measurements are in order.. You guys just may be on to something here...

 

As i said, mine are wearing prefectly! If yours are not then it just seems logical to add two shims to adjust caliper...

[FuzzyRSTD]

Do what Taz suggested and put a 42thousandth thick washer between the caliper and the frame. This will straighten out the caliper and the pads will wear the same on both sides. I did this last year and just checked and they are both pads are wearing the same.

 

tew47

 

Can not find the post you mentioned, but makes sense to me. Do you have a link to this post please ? Thanks, Fuzzy

[CaptainJoe]

just do a search on TAZes posts... If you can't find it I'll look tomorrow...

[CaptainJoe]

PMed TEW47,taz62359 and tazmocycle.. there is no taz member...

hopefully he/she will reply as i cannot find doing the searches I suggested ??????

[TEW47]

Sorry, the post is on another forum, Royal Star Venture and Tour Deluxe, on Delphi forum, they also have alot of good info. They also like our forum too. You put the 42thousandth washer in between the rear caliper and the frame. The rear bolt goes through the washer.

 

tew47

[CaptainJoe]

Wouldn't the washers(2) have to between the caliper and caliper mount?

 

Otherwise one end of the brake pad is going to get scuffed off?

 

Also: people are saying their inner brake pad is thinner or thicker depending on who you ask. I'm thinking it the inner pad is 1/16 thinner you should put in two 1/32nd washers (one for each bolt).

 

Be interesting to see how this pans out

 

Best way would be to shave some off of the inner portion of the caliper bracket where the axle goes through or off of the washer that is between the wheel and the caliper bracket, but I wouldnt do this till I knew how thick they need to be(experimented with the washers/spacers)...

 

Good luck!

Edited July 15, 2011 by CaptainJoe

[FuzzyRSTD]

Sorry, the post is on another forum, Royal Star Venture and Tour Deluxe, on Delphi forum, they also have alot of good info. They also like our forum too. You put the 42thousandth washer in between the rear caliper and the frame. The rear bolt goes through the washer.

 

tew47

 

Thanks, that is why I could not find this. I looked for an hour last night. So does some put the washer only in the rear or on both bolts between the frame and caliper or on just the rear one or both ? I have heard some say that the wear was 1/16 more toward the rear of inner pad, 1/8 toward the front of inner pad. The outside was 3/16 or more and wore even across the pad.:confused24:

 

Fuzzy

[CaptainJoe]

Buy new brake pads, measure for uniformity.

Clean pistons in calipers with dot3 or greater.

Install new pads.

Place calipers on rotor and bolt down.

Apply and leave off rear brake numerous times....

 

Now: take hand off of rear brake and:

Measure gaps between rotor and pad on both the inner and outer pads with feeler guage.

If it's tighter on the inner pad, shim with washers accordingly

If its much tighter on one end of the inner pad you've got an alinement problem, and you will need to place more shim(s) on bolt closest to it.

 

 

least thats what I'd do...

Let me know Joe

[TEW47]

Just on the rear bolt, between the caliper and the mounting bracket, the bolt goes through monting bracket, then the washer then into the rear caliper bolt hole.

 

tew47