Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 #1 Posted June 13, 2011 Well after 3 years of leaking coolant I finally found the leak while at the WI MD. This was a leak that only happened when the engine was cold. I cold never find any drop or stain on anything on the bike. I know everyone will say it was the drain cock, the symptoms match that one perfectly. I did the new o-ring and SS screw upgrade and cleaned all of the corrosion out of the o-ring bore so I know it is not that, and the drip is more to the right side of the bike. This normally only leaked a couple of drops of coolant per day. After I got to the WI MD and the bike was parked for about 6 hours I spotted a drop on the driveway. I figured that I could finally catch the bike in the act of taking a leak, and I did. Well what I finally found is a tiny hairline crack about a half inch long in the thermostat cover. while I am in there I will also replace the hard 90° elbow that has a dent in it fro the right crash bar. I'll also grind off the corner of the crash bar so that it does not dent the new tube so easy. I have the new parts ordered. Now I just need to figure out how to get to it. From a distance it looks like the radiator and exhaust pipe are in the way. Any pointers will be helpful. What else should I do in there while it is apart?
Keemez Posted June 13, 2011 #2 Posted June 13, 2011 I have spent the last 2 days fighting in this same area. The radiator does not need to be completely removed to get the exhaust header out of the way but it will need to be pried up/out of the way a little bit so you'll have to unmount it from the frame. I don't see any cracks on my tstat cover but that oring was pretty sad. I found one very close at the local hardware store and with a little creative Dremel-ing got that one to fit in spot without any apparent leaks. Where I DO have leaks is on that stupid elbow. I cheaped out and got 79 cent orings for that too that looked like a really good fit but they still dribble some. As I type my bike is sitting out in the sun letting some RTV cure up that I glopped all around the diameter of the tube. This is the 2nd or 3rd attempt- if it doesn't work I'm going to break down and get the actual Yammy orings.
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 Author #3 Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) I was hoping that it would not be to bad to get to. The Yami service manual has it in the engine out of of bike overhaul section. I just hate wiggling things around on these old machines, you never know what old brittle thing will break in the process. If you let me know quick I can see if I can add the Yami O-rings to my order that I just placed this morning. I have just one set of o-rings for both the t-stat cover and the tube coming, I also have a new cover and tube coming. They were not expensive. Then we just need to figure out where/how to meet up for you to get them from me. Edited June 13, 2011 by Flyinfool
Keemez Posted June 13, 2011 #4 Posted June 13, 2011 I was hoping that it would not be to bad to get to. The Yami service manual has it in the engine out of of bike overhaul section. If you let me know quick I can see if I can add the Yami Orings to my order that I just placed this morning. I have just one set of o-rings for both the t-stat cover and the tube coming. They were not expensive. Then we just need to figure out where/how to meet up for you to get them from me. Yeah- that's overkill (engine out of frame) for these procedures. Everything is accessible on bike so long as you jam the radiator up/outta the way. In fact you can even leave all the hoses attached/clamped in place- they have enough "give" to allow it to be repositioned enough to get the header out and back in. It's gonna be a few hours before I know whether my attempt will hold or not. Local stealership has been pretty good about giving me discount pricing on all the parts I got from them lately, so if it comes down to needing the actual Yam orings it won't be a challenge getting them locally. Plus we'd spend more in gas just getting together than the dang things are worth in the first place! haha Thanks for the offer/thought though.
dingy Posted June 13, 2011 #5 Posted June 13, 2011 If you are in that deep, it would be a good time to fix the starter ground. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 Gary
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 Author #6 Posted June 13, 2011 I never thought of that one. I'll look into it what it will take to pull the starter while I am in there. Might also be a good time to snake in some #4 welding cables. Its always a crap shoot as to weather or not it will crank on the first try when I stop for gas. Oh I hate the "While I Am There Game", It always turns a not so bad job into a major project, I always get carried away when I play that game. The end result is always much better, but it is still a pain and expensive to play the game.
Keemez Posted June 13, 2011 #7 Posted June 13, 2011 Oh I hate the "While I Am There Game", It always turns a not so bad job into a major project, I always get carried away when I play that game. The end result is always much better, but it is still a pain and expensive to play the game. You ain't kiddin. This is how I wound up being down for a month or better and spending a buncha loot that I don't have.
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 Author #8 Posted June 13, 2011 I sure hope I am not down for a month.......... Its ridin season, and the bike gets so much better mileage than my truck.
Keemez Posted June 13, 2011 #9 Posted June 13, 2011 Well, mine was self-induced. I pulled the motor outta the frame cuz it needed a total degreasing/cleaning, and I decided trying to measure the valve clearance in fame was a foolish feat to attempt. It WAS easy with the engine sitting on the floor, but I'm not convinced it's worth the hassle of pulling it outta the frame just for that.
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