reddevilmedic Posted June 13, 2011 #1 Posted June 13, 2011 ok. new user here. i recently bought an 83xvz12. the taillights were working, but now they dont. however, the brake lights do! ive checked and replaced the bulbs, and the fuse. still nothing. i checked with a multimeter to the sockets and i do get readings. im confused. i read in here, there are a bunch of relays, but mine are no longer in the holder, and are just lying around in there. all of them are marked differently. help!
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 #2 Posted June 13, 2011 ok. new user here. i recently bought an 83xvz12. the taillights were working, but now they dont. however, the brake lights do! ive checked and replaced the bulbs, and the fuse. still nothing. i checked with a multimeter to the sockets and i do get readings. im confused. i read in here, there are a bunch of relays, but mine are no longer in the holder, and are just lying around in there. all of them are marked differently. help! From the wiring diagram it does not look like there are any relays involved in the tail light or brake light. What reading are you getting with your multimeter and where exactly are you measuring from - to? Are the front running lights lit?
KarlS Posted June 13, 2011 #3 Posted June 13, 2011 Have you did the fuse box upgrade yet? I had nothing but problems with anything electrical until the fuse box was replaced. In my opinion thats the first thing that should be done. Fuses looked good on mine too but underside was rotted away.
dingy Posted June 13, 2011 #4 Posted June 13, 2011 As indicated above, the side clips on the fuses weaken. Tug on each of the fuses and make sure it is tight on BOTH ends, if not time to replace the holders. Gary
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 #5 Posted June 13, 2011 The OP is only talking about only the tail lights being out. That is why I asked about the front running lights, If he has front running lights and no tail lights, the fuse is good for now, and my first guess would then be a broken solder joint in the CMU. A perfect time to jumper out the reed switches if there is any intent of converting to LED someday.
reddevilmedic Posted June 13, 2011 Author #6 Posted June 13, 2011 the running lights on the front do work. but not the back, just whan i apply brake. no, i didnt replace fuse block yet. where do i get one? also, i did install led's. but not even the stock 1157's stay lit.
Squidley Posted June 13, 2011 #7 Posted June 13, 2011 Check to make sure the running light wire to the back isn't severed...
reddevilmedic Posted June 13, 2011 Author #8 Posted June 13, 2011 i did. it did have some slight damage where other lights were spliced in, but i repaired it. i think. they worked for about a week, then went out again.
Trader Posted June 13, 2011 #9 Posted June 13, 2011 Sounds like its time to pony up the $12 and become a member. Then you can get the parts etc you may need along with a discount and contribute to maintaining this great site!
reddevilmedic Posted June 13, 2011 Author #10 Posted June 13, 2011 done! 12 bucks well spent. how bout that help?
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 #12 Posted June 13, 2011 I would start with the repair that you mentioned to be sure that it is good. It does not sound like a fuse issue at this time. All of the running lights are on the same fuse. You have either a cut/broken wire connection somewhere or a bad solder joint in the CMU. To find it all you can do is to start tracing the wire back from the tail light till you find the break and fix it. I would use a circuit tester that has an incandescent bulb to do the checking. It is possible to have a weak connection that will show as good with a voltmeter or LED tester but have to high of a resistance to pass the amps needed for lighting up the bulbs. You can download a wiring diagram for your bike Here The fuse upgrade is here Welcome to the family.
reddevilmedic Posted June 13, 2011 Author #13 Posted June 13, 2011 thanks. not extremely mechanically inclined. what and where is the cmu? ill check that wire again.
Freebird Posted June 13, 2011 #14 Posted June 13, 2011 I would absolutely be checking the repair. You said it worked for about a week after you did it. That would lead me to be highly suspect that the repair failed.
dingy Posted June 13, 2011 #15 Posted June 13, 2011 thanks. not extremely mechanically inclined. what and where is the cmu? ill check that wire again. CMU is your dash computer, thing with warning lights & clock on it. Gary
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 #16 Posted June 13, 2011 thanks. not extremely mechanically inclined. what and where is the cmu? ill check that wire again. My mistake, I guess the call it a CMU on the later models and a CPU on the 83. Either way it is a computer module that monitors the different things that can then be displayed as the icons on the monitor screen. The CPU is on the back side of the LCD screen on the dash. It can be a bit a a hassle to get to but not really all that bad. I would start with the blue wire at the tail light and check with the tester and start working my way forward. The wire starts out as a blue wire at the tail light and it changes to a blue wire with a white stripe as it goes thru a connector, I am not sure but I think that connector is under the seat on the left side. The Blue/White wire then runs all the way to the dash where it enters the CPU connector.
reddevilmedic Posted June 13, 2011 Author #17 Posted June 13, 2011 cmu seems to be working fine. it goes thru checks and lets me know taillight is out. headlamp shows out, but i put in a h.i.d., also light blinks, and shows battery. probably because i changed it. fuse upgrade and progressive springs look great!
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 #18 Posted June 13, 2011 Well you need to pull the CPU to jumper the reed switches for the HID headlight anyhow so that the red LED stops flashing at you and the headlight out icon turns off on the display. If the problem should happen to be in the CPU, The mod for installing your LED tail lights will be right where you need to be to also fix this problem. It is the sensor in the CPU that can break the circuit to the tail light and it will be correct in telling you that the tail light is not lit, even though the CPU is what caused it to not be lit. I would still check all of the wiring before tearing into the CPU. Good luck, electrical issues can be a PITA.
reddevilmedic Posted June 13, 2011 Author #19 Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) ok. cpu, jump reed switches? is there a write-up for that procedure? i plan on follow the wire all the way to cpu tomorrow. is the wire exposed and accessable through the headlight area? or do i need to romove the fairing? again. ugh. i guess its possible i damaged the wire in the dash area, because of the h.i.d. install and all its extra wiring i had to basically jam up into the headlight area. oops. did i say jam? i meant gently eased! Edited June 13, 2011 by reddevilmedic
Flyinfool Posted June 13, 2011 #20 Posted June 13, 2011 Here are a couple of links. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...3&postcount=10 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...5&postcount=11 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=33285 The first one is for an '83 and the second one is for an '84 If you are not comfortable soldering on a PCB, find a friend that is. I jumpered all 4 reed switches so that the CMU is ready when I convert to all LED lights. The reed switches are for; Headlight low beam Headlight High beam Tail light Brake light For the HID you need to do the 2 headlight switches and if you intend to put in a LED tail / brake light you need to do the other 2. So I just did all 4 so that I did not have to figure out which one does what. I did a writeup of getting to the CPU for the HID install on my '88 but it should be very similar for yours. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=462430&postcount=19 I do not think the front end of the Blue/white wire will be accessible from the headlight, you will probably need to pull the dash cover to get at it. Once you get to the connector at the back of the CPU, if there is no power at the blue/white wire, then check the blue wire at the CPU connector, if the blue lights the tester and the blue/white does not then your problem is in the CPU.
dingy Posted June 13, 2011 #21 Posted June 13, 2011 Remove the head light cover & wind shield, then the black shroud over the cluster. (2 screws each side.) To remove cluster, there are 2 10mm bolts that can be seen beside or close to the headlight, but to rear of it. You need a long extension to reach back into these. Check link below. Exactly what you need to get to it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328 Gary
bkuhr Posted June 13, 2011 #22 Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) The front marker lights do not run thru the CMS(dash LED dispaly), but the rear marker "tail light" and rear "brake light" do. You can start testing at the rear of the CMS, removed windshield and dash cover, and maybe headlight. looking at the long 18 pin connecter in middle of the dash, probe with volt meter or test light. -Top row second left from release tab BLUE wire is battery + from key switch thru tail fuse to both CMS and front marker lights -Top row first left from release tan BLUE/WHITE wire is battery + going thru CMS and coming back out heading to tail(marker lights). this wire runs thru a 6 pin connector near front of seat left side, then a 3 pin connector under seat, then 1 wire bullet connectors at rear of light housings. Needless to say, if you have power into CMS, but not out, then you have a CMS problem attached is internal wiring diagram I made concerning mod to remove coils/switches, but provides pretty good pinout. Looks like a lot of links mod-ing cms, heres mine http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58292 Just a note, jumpering reed switchs eliminates CMS alarms, but current for the actual lighting circuits is thru the coils, and if your problem is in the CMS, it is the coil that needs repaired. likely resolder. My mod is a little different in that I eliminated both reed switchs and coils, and extended reed switch alarm circuits for external activation. Edited June 14, 2011 by bkuhr more info
reddevilmedic Posted June 14, 2011 Author #23 Posted June 14, 2011 ok flyinfool, so your mod is so i can operate my hid and leds properly? and dingys mod is just to fix the taillight problem without leds? just basically resolder? i have led tails in now, and hid. so i definately need to do jumpers? but i leave the coils when i do jumpers? wow. im pretty sure i can do this, if im understanding everyone correctly.
KarlS Posted June 14, 2011 #24 Posted June 14, 2011 Skydoc_17 sells the fuse block upgrade with everything you need. Pictures below show new fuse box with TCI repositioned. Like I said I chased electrical problem constantly until I did it. Mine at one time had the headlight go out with all other lights working. Good Luck.
reddevilmedic Posted June 14, 2011 Author #25 Posted June 14, 2011 whats the tci? why is it all mounted to airbox?
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