Check Your REAR Brake Pads!

[V7Goose]

I know this is a repeat of some other fairly recent threads, but I noticed that Pioneer Motorsports has EBC HH pads for sale in the classified for a very reasonable price, so I thought I would mention this again.

 

I am sorry that we did not make a point of organizing the inspection of the rear pads on all the 2nd gens at Don's recent maintenance day - it only takes about 1 minute to open the saddlebag lid and reach behind it to pop off that plastic cover and inspect the pads with a little flashlight - No need for any tools!

 

I want to stress the need to do this - the last time I had 5 RSVs/RSTDs together before Don's maintenance day, none of the owners had even given a thought to their brake pads with less than 20,000 miles on their bike, but THREE of the five bikes were already metal-to-metal on the inside pad!

 

Please do yourself a favor and make this quick little inspection - new pads are sooo easy to change, and new rotors are sooo expensive.

Goose

[Condor]

Thanks for the reminder Goose. Gotta go do that....

[E-Fishin-C]

Brakes and Tire Pressure a must!!!

[petekadish]

Twice now, I have discovered by surprise that my inside rear brake pad was completely worn down. And, last year I had to replace the rotor because of it. You're right, it was expensive. Fortunately, this year I discovered the wear while making seasonal riding preparations, before it became an issue. The first time it happened, I was pulling a trailer through New Mexico - that was really inconvenient!

 

So, why is it that one pad wears-out and unevenly compared to the other one?

 

Be Safe!

Pete.

[Panjandrum]

I was somewhat surprised that my rear pads had to be replaced after only 14,000 Km (8,700 miles). I guess I am spending way too much time in traffic!

 

[SilvrT]

I was somewhat surprised that my rear pads had to be replaced after only 14,000 Km (8,700 miles). I guess I am spending way too much time in traffic!

 

 

I believe that the stock pads are POS. Mine wore out fairly soon too and I'd already swapped the inner/outer. Current set are HH (I believe) and when I changed the back tire last week, I swapped the inner/outer as the inner was already about 1/2 of what the outer was although there was still lots left.

 

Knowing that the back brake seems to wear so much, I've been in the habit of checking them fairly regularly.

 

I also use my front brake more now than ever soas to extend the life of the rear pads.

 

Front pads are still very good and are the original.

[Flyinfool]

 

So, why is it that one pad wears-out and unevenly compared to the other one?

 

Be Safe!

Pete.

 

Is that what makes the 2nd gens so slow? does everyone ride with their foot on the brake?:stickpoke:

 

I just changed pads on the rear of my 1st gen and the pads had equal wear.

On a 1st gen there are 2 pistons on the inside and 2 on the outside. I was told that the 2nd gen has only 2 pistons and a floating caliper. Could there be some excess friction in the floating caliper causing the inner pad to drag or not fully release.

[Carbon_One]

Is that what makes the 2nd gens so slow? does everyone ride with their foot on the brake?:stickpoke:

 

I just changed pads on the rear of my 1st gen and the pads had equal wear.

On a 1st gen there are 2 pistons on the inside and 2 on the outside. I was told that the 2nd gen has only 2 pistons and a floating caliper. Could there be some excess friction in the floating caliper causing the inner pad to drag or not fully release.

Yep you nailed it about that floating caliper dragging thus causing excessive wear. The real cure would probably a set with pistons on both sides like the fronts use. What would fit I have no idea there. Perhaps someone with more knowledge in this area will have an answer.

Larry

[Flyinfool]

Is it just a matter of having to do some maintenance on the floating caliper, like maybe some grease on the pins, we all know that the Yami factory is allergic to grease around the rear wheel so they don't use it like they should.

 

I never took a 2nd gen apart so I am just belching out ideas with no real knowledge here.

[LilBeaver]

Yep you nailed it about that floating caliper dragging thus causing excessive wear. The real cure would probably a set with pistons on both sides like the fronts use. What would fit I have no idea there. Perhaps someone with more knowledge in this area will have an answer.

Larry

 

 

Maybe my RSV is special but my rear caliper has 4 pistons in it (two inside and two outside) where my FRONT calipers are the ones with the 'floating' design (and only 2 pistons).

 

For what it is worth, I have been through 3 sets of rear pads now and they all have worn quite evenly. My last one was darn near perfect. Regardless, keeping a regular check on those puppies is ALWAYS a good idea.

 

As to why some wear unevenly - I have some guesses but no objective tests on them so I'll keep my yapper shut until I get something more definitive.

 

EDIT:

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1345200&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2010&fveh=37804

Here is the fiche for a rear caliper

[V7Goose]

On a 1st gen there are 2 pistons on the inside and 2 on the outside. I was told that the 2nd gen has only 2 pistons and a floating caliper. Could there be some excess friction in the floating caliper causing the inner pad to drag or not fully release.

No, this is not correct. Although a floating caliper can hang up on the rails and cause just such a problem, that is not what is going on here. On the 2nd gens, both FRONT brakes are floating calipers, but they wear perfectly evenly. The REAR brake, however, has active pistons on both pads, so there is absolutely no logic that can explain why the majority of them wear heavily on the inside only. But we know they do, so we learn to watch them. Stock pads rarely last more than 10,000 miles on the rear, but EBC HH pads tend to go at least 35,000 miles in the same calipers.

 

I have always kinda wanted to do some research and experimentation to try and find the cause/cure for this anomaly, but since the HH pads do provide acceptable life, it has just always been a lot easier to simply use them and leave the question unanswered!

Goose

[BuddyRich]

I have never had a pair of rear pads go past 12k. That's the max I get out of EBC double HH's. Most are done by 9k. But wear is dependent on your riding style and if its city or highway. I always use "head and eyes" along with the friction zone and feathering the rear brake. And I'm about 60% city 40% highway.

[SilvrT]

OK, I boo-booed ... I changed my rear brakes at 17,188 miles (27,661 kilometers) so I guess I'm doing pretty good compared to some of you. I currently have just over 35,000 km's on the scoot.

[dogman]

I changed my rear brakes pads for the first time at this past MD with Gary N's help. I had 23,000 miles on them and the inside was almost down to the metal.

[RandyR]

Somewhere on this forum is a thread about placing a shim washer on one of the rear brake mounting bolts which is claimed to even out the wear.

[FuzzyRSTD]

Thanks Goose. I never even give it a thought. My bike has 13,000 or so now. I have never looked. Shucks this would have been a Freebird Maintenance Day thing for me.

I will put this high on my list for after work tomorrow evening. I will have to say that I have not noticed any unusual noise/grinding back there though.

 

Fuzzy

[BradT]

Stock pads rarely last more than 10,000 miles on the rear, but EBC HH pads tend to go at least 35,000 miles in the same calipers.

 

Too anyone I was curious, if the EBC pads are harder and last longer do they have the same braking force as the Stock pads ? Has anyone done testing to compare the actual stopping distance between the two types of pads ?

 

If the stock pads stop better would it not be worth the extra cost of replacement compared to longer lasting EBC ?

 

Brad

[RandyR]

EBC makes 2 kinds of pads. Organic and metallic (HH I believe). The metallic are harder on the rotors.

 

Organic pads are made with man made fibres such as Kevlar or Twaron bonded together with a petrochemical resin and sintered metal pads are copper alloy fused together under heat and pressure.

 

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/organic_brake_pads/index.shtml

 

If one can lock up the wheel with organic pads, I see no reason to use metallic. That said, lots of people use them without ill effect to their rotors.

 

There are a few other kinds of pad material available from other venders.

[BuddyRich]

Too anyone I was curious, if the EBC pads are harder and last longer do they have the same braking force as the Stock pads ? Has anyone done testing to compare the actual stopping distance between the two types of pads ?

 

If the stock pads stop better would it not be worth the extra cost of replacement compared to longer lasting EBC ?

 

Brad

 

Pads don't make much difference on the rear. You'll lock the rear tire no matter what pads you have on fairly easily.

I have even locked the front here a couple of times in San Antonio. I have Double HH on all my brakes