calperin Posted June 9, 2011 #26 Posted June 9, 2011 Seriously, thanks for going to the trouble! I honestly never worry when I have bike trouble because I know that you guys are here to share your experiences and wisdom. OOOOOPS!!!! Too much responsibilty to be in this site!!!
phertwo Posted June 10, 2011 Author #27 Posted June 10, 2011 Okay my friends, I'm back with some results.. So I charged up the battery 100% (over 13V before start up), started up the bike and revved it at 5,550 rpm and I was reading a straight 12.49V, no fluctuation. So I then followed LilBeavers troubleshooting guide. 1) Charged the new battery 100%, was holding over 13VDC steady. Appears to be in working order. 2) I didn't check the resistance of the white connector plug (I am assuming the connector with the two wires as there are many 'white' connectors in that area - but all with multiple wires). The reason I didn't check this is because I have my tachometer probe wire hardwired into one of these wires and it will likely throw off the resistance readings. To answer your next question (huh?..), my tachometer has a special setting where it can read the rpm directly from an alternator. The tach has been working this way for a long while now, and I would likely think now that if my stator was fried then my tach would not work or give me bogus readings.. So for now I'm going to leave this one alone. If needed, I will revisit this. 3) I inspected the R/R connector plug again and it looks like it is in great shape. 4) I inspected the fuse box in the front (3 fuses) and everything looks good here. I couldn't find a main 30A fuse as the 3 fuses in the fuse box were 5, 10, 15 Amps. All connections are snug and clean. 5) Now this is a real give away I think, the AC voltage across the battery terminals. While the bike was running and revved at 5,550 rpm I saw AC voltage swing from +32 to 0.2 VAC in less than a second. I'm assuming that if the rectifier was working properly it would not permit AC voltage to run like this. The R/R looks busted to me. 6) Rev test shows 12.49VDC @ 5,500 rpm held steady for 20 seconds. No change in voltage. I'm thinking that I should be looking at ordering in a new R/R. Thoughts?
Flyinfool Posted June 10, 2011 #28 Posted June 10, 2011 Okay my friends, I'm back with some results.. So I charged up the battery 100% (over 13V before start up), started up the bike and revved it at 5,550 rpm and I was reading a straight 12.49V, no fluctuation. So I then followed LilBeavers troubleshooting guide. 1) Charged the new battery 100%, was holding over 13VDC steady. Appears to be in working order. This is good 2) I didn't check the resistance of the white connector plug (I am assuming the connector with the two wires as there are many 'white' connectors in that area - but all with multiple wires). The reason I didn't check this is because I have my tachometer probe wire hardwired into one of these wires and it will likely throw off the resistance readings. To answer your next question (huh?..), my tachometer has a special setting where it can read the rpm directly from an alternator. The tach has been working this way for a long while now, and I would likely think now that if my stator was fried then my tach would not work or give me bogus readings.. So for now I'm going to leave this one alone. If needed, I will revisit this. Wrong connector, the one that you want to check it the 3 wires that come out of the stator and go to a 3 pin white connector on the left side of the bike. If one of the 3 winding in the stator is shot (normal failure mode) your tach could still work fine if it was wired to one of the other 2 good windings. 3) I inspected the R/R connector plug again and it looks like it is in great shape. Good 4) I inspected the fuse box in the front (3 fuses) and everything looks good here. I couldn't find a main 30A fuse as the 3 fuses in the fuse box were 5, 10, 15 Amps. All connections are snug and clean. Sorry I can't help here with the main fuse location, I have a 1st gen. 5) Now this is a real give away I think, the AC voltage across the battery terminals. While the bike was running and revved at 5,550 rpm I saw AC voltage swing from +32 to 0.2 VAC in less than a second. I'm assuming that if the rectifier was working properly it would not permit AC voltage to run like this. The R/R looks busted to me. This may be a giveaway, But I would still check out the stator before ordering parts. You can check the stator by either checking resistance if the coils and or measuring the AC voltage at the 3 Pin connector. You need to check resistance (bike not running) and/or voltage (bike running). Resistance should be as previously posted and voltage should be around 32VAC. While you are checking resistance also check the resistance from any of the 3 stator wires to ground, you should get a resistance of infinity to ground. 6) Rev test shows 12.49VDC @ 5,500 rpm held steady for 20 seconds. No change in voltage. Not good. See above. I'm thinking that I should be looking at ordering in a new R/R. Thoughts? A bad stator can take out the R/R and a bad R/R can take out a stator.
Condor Posted June 10, 2011 #29 Posted June 10, 2011 Sounds like the rectifyer... There were some Indian Rectifiers purchased by members about a year or so ago. Much better unit than OEM. You might try posting to see if they have all been installed. You might be able to scare one up. Times and intentions do change....
Squidley Posted June 10, 2011 #30 Posted June 10, 2011 Some options (I have no affiliation with these folks, nor have I ever used their products - just throwing it out there for you): http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/ http://www.electrosport.com/ Just to fill you in, DO NOT USE electrosport! I had issues with them about 3 years ago on a '99 I had, they are a bunch of sheisters. If your going to replace the regulator, go back with a stock one, thats what I did on my '99 at the time and the issue was solved.
phertwo Posted June 10, 2011 Author #31 Posted June 10, 2011 Flyinfool - I was going to order the R/R, but I will wait until I check the three-wire connector from the stator. You make a good point. If the stator is wack, then the rectifier will give out bum readings. Thanks! Squidley, duly noted! I will stick to the stock unit for now. Condor, I remember reading something about these Indian Rectifiers somewhere, but I wasn't sure if they were for 1st gens. I couldn't find much about them while searching the net either. I think I will just get the stock unit from the dealer since its my fastest option. I don't want to miss out on the good weather any more. The dealer is ripping me off, but its still probably the best option. Partshark lists the part for $57, but shipping to canada is $45, not to mention duties and taxes, as well as the 10-15 business days.... Looks like the stealers will again.
LilBeaver Posted June 10, 2011 #32 Posted June 10, 2011 Flyinfool addressed everything quite well. I'll go ahead and add my :2cents: in a few places as well (although I agree with him 100%). First of all the 3 wire stator plug may not be white. This picture shows it black: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=306892&postcount=5 I cannot seem to find the pictures I took of mine (but I swear mine was white). It is right in front of the battery compartment and quite low in the bike. You will have to take off the three covers (I remembered incorrectly when I had initially written that you wouldn't have to remove anything). ... 2) I didn't check the resistance of the white connector plug (I am assuming the connector with the two wires as there are many 'white' connectors in that area - but all with multiple wires). The reason I didn't check this is because I have my tachometer probe wire hardwired into one of these wires and it will likely throw off the resistance readings. To answer your next question (huh?..), my tachometer has a special setting where it can read the rpm directly from an alternator. The tach has been working this way for a long while now, and I would likely think now that if my stator was fried then my tach would not work or give me bogus readings.. So for now I'm going to leave this one alone. If needed, I will revisit this. ... 4) I inspected the fuse box in the front (3 fuses) and everything looks good here. I couldn't find a main 30A fuse as the 3 fuses in the fuse box were 5, 10, 15 Amps. All connections are snug and clean. 5) Now this is a real give away I think, the AC voltage across the battery terminals. While the bike was running and revved at 5,550 rpm I saw AC voltage swing from +32 to 0.2 VAC in less than a second. I'm assuming that if the rectifier was working properly it would not permit AC voltage to run like this. The R/R looks busted to me. 6) Rev test shows 12.49VDC @ 5,500 rpm held steady for 20 seconds. No change in voltage. I'm thinking that I should be looking at ordering in a new R/R. Thoughts? The AC Voltage showing up is a clear indicator that your R/R is not functioning properly. The purpose of the R/R unit is to 'convert' the alternating current (AC) that comes out of the stator to a direct current (DC) as well as shunt any unnecessary electricity generated by the stator. There are two main components to the R/R unit the 'regulator' portion (controls the power 'allowed' through) and the 'rectifier' (AC to DC) portion. It is entirely possible for either of the components to fail independently of each other or both fail at the same time. While the rock steady 12.49V is not likely from the R/R unit, it is still entirely possible that it is. I cannot think of a single instance outside of a bad R/R and maybe (this is a big stretch) some sort of short to ground between the stator and the R/R that would cause AC to show up at the battery terminals. So that, in my opinion, is quite conclusive that your R/R has bit the dust. Incidentally, it would be strongly advised to NOT start your bike again until you get that sucka fixed. It is entirely possible that your stator has also gone bad too; the resistance test will show that conclusively. As for your tach being hard wired to the stator, this is conceivable but I suspect rather unlikely. I suspect that you probably have it hooked up to one of the ignition coils rather than the main feed between the stator and R/R. Regardless, you really need to get that resistance measurement (OR do an AC voltage measurement AT the 3 pin connector). If you decide to go the route of the AC measurement, you should measure something like 4 to 8 V (AC) between any of the 3 terminals. I find the resistance test much easier to do, mainly because you don't have to slide your hands around the hot exhaust pipes and whatnot. In inspecting the fuse boxes, make sure you also check where the main wiring feeds into the boxes. The main 30A fuse is located behind the plastic plate that is right next to where the passenger's left ankle would be. All in all, while I hate to say it, it sounds like your R/R definitely needs to be replaced. At this point we don't have enough information to know for sure if your stator is bad or not, but that resistance test will confirm one way or the other. I've got to run to a meeting, I hope I didn't forget anything... Best of luck to you!
phertwo Posted June 10, 2011 Author #33 Posted June 10, 2011 Solid information! I will check over things again tonight. Thanks again LilBeaver and to everyone else.
MiCarl Posted June 10, 2011 #34 Posted June 10, 2011 Since you've found the R/R plug you can check the resistance there. It will have three white or three yellow wires. Check the resistance readings between pairs and each lead to ground. Somebody previously posted the specs. In general 0.5 to 1.0 ohm should be ok. Remember you have an extra length of wire and connector when measuring at the R/R so don't panic if your resistance is a hair above spec. Also check each wire to ground, there should be no continuity. The alternator and the rectifier portion of the Regulator/Rectifier are three phase. Generally all 3 phases don't fail together so you see some charging, just not up to spec. If none of the stator leads are shorted to ground I'd guess you either have a bad connection between the R/R and battery or the regulator portion of the R/R is shorted.
dingy Posted June 10, 2011 #35 Posted June 10, 2011 (edited) Attached below is a picture of a typical charging system in a Venture, this happens to be from an MKII. Newer models don't have the brown wire going to the regulator/rectifier anymore. As you can see, both ends of each of the six main diodes are available on a given pair of wires. Left side all tie to the red wire on the cathode (-) side and on the right side all three tie to the ground wire on the Anode (+) side. Below is a somewhat confusing way to check the six rectifying diodes and see if the are open or shorted. This does not address checking the zener diode (one with the squiggly line in lower left.) If any of these diodes do not read as they should, R/R is junk. Even if these all check out OK though, there is other parts of the R/R that can't be checked. So this procedure will only tell you for sure if R/R is bad, it can't verify completely that it is good. In essence, you will be reading current flow through each diode in one direction, then reversing current flow. Current flow is permitted in the direction of the arrow in the diode schematic, but blocked when flowing against arrow. When you put the red lead of the back side of the arrow and the black lead on the point side of the arrow, it should read zero (or near) ohms, reverse the leads and it should read high ohms. By taking an ohm meter and placing the Red (+) lead of the meter on the red wire of the regulator and then probing each of the three white wires with the black lead of the meter, this reading should be near infinite ohms (open/high ohms) on each wire. Now put the Black (-) lead of the meter on the red wire of the regulator and then probing each of the three white wires, this reading should be near zero ohms on each wire. Repeat procedure on other bank of diodes as follows, the Black (-) lead of the meter on the black wire of the regulator and then probing each of the three white wires with the black lead of the meter, this reading should be near infinite ohms (open/high ohms) on each wire. Now put the Red (+) lead of the meter on the black wire of the regulator and then probing each of the three white wires, this reading should be zero ohms on each wire. Also attached the page from service manual, its probably easier to understand. Gary Edited June 11, 2011 by dingy revised polarity
RandyR Posted June 10, 2011 #36 Posted June 10, 2011 IF your tach is wired to the stator, then that might explain how AC is getting into the system although its hard to imagine.
dingy Posted June 11, 2011 #37 Posted June 11, 2011 (edited) I agree with Squidly on using a stock R/R. As long as it is in good condition and has high quality connections. Something else that would be very helpful that has been mentioned before on this forum is to run a heavy gauge wire from the regulator to the battery. Do this on the red (positive) & black (negative) wire. Use at least 12 gauge wire. If you have the type of regulator that has a brown wire, it's OK as is. This was used a voltage sensor. Reason this helps is that inside of the wiring harness there are a couple of crimp style connections between the regulator & the battery that can become high resistance with all the vibration & other various factors that they are subject to. Especially the ground wire side. It has connections all over. There is one connection in particular on the VMax's that is notorious for causing problems. Venture harnesses are of course different, so problem could be similar at other points. If you are going to run the extra wires, I would SOLDER them into the R/R right next to the body of the R/R. In other words, don't go through the R/R connector, less chance for a high resistance problem. Solder a ring type connection on the battery end and screw it right to the posts. It would be prudent to put at least a 30 amp fuse in line with the positive wire as close to battery as can be. I know the 1st gens have a 40 amp main fuse, but this wire will not carry the full load, it is in parallel with existing wiring. 40 amp fuse holders are not commonly available. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/wiringdaigramforrectifier.jpg Edited June 11, 2011 by dingy added graphic
Snaggletooth Posted June 11, 2011 #38 Posted June 11, 2011 I did the upgrade to the Buckeye stator a few years ago and recenty added the Shindengen R/R that Condor mentioned. Best combo yet! Solid 14.2 volts with the system fully loaded up. 14.4 constantly with just OEM lights. Nice match for the higher output stator and no need to be exposed for cooling as it is new technology. Have mine inside the fairing. Check around the parts sites for the R/R off a 2009 V-Max and check it out. I saw some listed last year for about $120.00.
phertwo Posted June 15, 2011 Author #39 Posted June 15, 2011 Thanks Dingy and MiCarl, I checked the main 30A fuse and it looks fine. I checked the stator resistance and its spot on at ~0.3 ohms. So narrowing it all down I decided to buy the new R/R from my local dealer. Yes, $165.. The dealer actually told me that its quite a good deal as other regulators go for more.. Whatever, he's not paying for it - I think its a rip. Before I go ahead and just simply plug in the new reg/rec I decided to do a bunch of other maintenance items,, seeing as how I started digging into the bike. So far i've... -cleaned and applied dielectric grease to all electrical connections -changed the final drive gear oil (man there was quite a lot of crap built up around the magnetic tip! I need to change this as often as the engine oil I think) -pulled the carbs, cleaned, adjusted the float heights -lubed the throttle cables -***changed the oil filter (syn. motor oil is still good for another while) I still have to... -Colortune to set the pms (once the carbs are back in) -New spark plugs -Carb sync. Have I missed anything? ***I started to think of why my R/R might have gone bad. Then I noticed that my oil filter sits really close to the R/R unit. I decided a little while ago to go with the FRAM 7317 filter, which is an auto filter, cheaper and longer than the stock one. However, the extra length of this filter brings it really close to the R/R (maybe Also, as an extra note, while I was cleaning my carbs with carb cleaner, I forgot to set aside the funky oring gaskets that seal in the float bowl covers. I noticed that the gaskets grew/swelled and got pretty sticky when I tried to assemble everything again. I should have known better as I am a Gasket and Rubber specialist, geez... So with chemically damaged orings and my unwillingness to go to the dealer to pay another arm and a leg for flimsy odd shaped orings, I took the float bowl cover to work. I created a drawing and had a few gaskets made up from some very high quality Viton B. So if anyone is in need of these gaskets, send me a message. So with everything back together I should have a well tuned up bike for the season. I'm certain that the weather will turn sour just as I'm ready to hit the road though. Although the weather never seems to stop me, except for ice. Thanks again!
phertwo Posted June 18, 2011 Author #40 Posted June 18, 2011 So the new regulator that I bought did not fix the problem. Its 2:29 still holding at the same voltage as before. So I did some probing around and found the following, perhaps someone can give me some feedback. I unplugged the regulator and checked the leads coming from the stator while the bike was running... White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~32 VAC White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~32 VAC White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~2.1 VAC (this looks suspicious to me) While the bike was off... White wire 1 to white wire 2 = 0.3 ohms White wire 1 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms White wire 2 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms (seems to be in spec) While bike was off and battery removed... Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Black lead from battery = inf. Ohms (no connection) Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Red lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open) Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to Black lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open) Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 1 = 0.3 ohms Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 2 = 0.3 ohms Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 3 = 0.3 ohms (Is negative suppose to be connected to the stator? The wiring diagram does not elude to this.) Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to a Screw on clutch plate cover = 0 Ohms (Is the negative of the battery suppost to be connected to ground? Hence the screw on the clutch plate cover) So I'm not sure if this all looks normal, but it seems that the stator is connected to ground which is connected to negative. Could this explain why there is a fluctuating AC voltage running across my battery terminals when running? Do you think that the stator might be shot due to the low AC reading across wires 2 and 3? I'm thinking that my regulator and regulator wiring is fine right now, but maybe there is a stator problem? I'm open to suggestions...
LilBeaver Posted June 18, 2011 #41 Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) Well shucks, this is disappointing to hear. It is my understanding that one way a stator can fail is one of the coils shorts to ground (sorry I didn't think of that before ) When you checked the resistance of the stator did you also check the resistance with respect to ground? If not, I'd give that a go and see what you end up with. I don't know what the AC reading between each wire on the stator should be and I cannot seem to find it in the service manual either but having that one being much lower than the other two as well as the AC reading across the battery terminals does suggest to me that you may have a short to ground within the stator wiring somewhere. Sorry Edited June 18, 2011 by LilBeaver seplling errrrrororor s
LilBeaver Posted June 18, 2011 #42 Posted June 18, 2011 So the new regulator that I bought did not fix the problem. Its 2:29 still holding at the same voltage as before. So I did some probing around and found the following, perhaps someone can give me some feedback. I unplugged the regulator and checked the leads coming from the stator while the bike was running... White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~32 VAC White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~32 VAC White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~2.1 VAC (this looks suspicious to me) I agree, that last one is somewhat suspect. While the bike was off... White wire 1 to white wire 2 = 0.3 ohms White wire 1 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms White wire 2 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms (seems to be in spec) Agreed, within spec. provided your meter is sensitive enough to give a true reading in that range. As mentioned above, I'd check the resistance with respect to ground and look for any variation. While bike was off and battery removed... Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Black lead from battery = inf. Ohms (no connection): This is fine Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Red lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open): This is fine - provided that by 'open' you mean no measured resistance. Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to Black lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open) This is fine - Provided that by 'open' you mean no measured resistance Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 1 = 0.3 ohms This seems fine Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 2 = 0.3 ohms This seems fine Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 3 = 0.3 ohms This seems fine (Is negative suppose to be connected to the stator? The wiring diagram does not elude to this.) The wiring diagram indicates that it ought to be grounded. One way to do that is to run to the negative terminal of the battery which then goes to the screw behind the horn/near the clutch cover. Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to a Screw on clutch plate cover = 0 Ohms (Is the negative of the battery suppost to be connected to ground? Hence the screw on the clutch plate cover) Absolutely. So I'm not sure if this all looks normal, but it seems that the stator is connected to ground which is connected to negative. Could this explain why there is a fluctuating AC voltage running across my battery terminals when running? Do you think that the stator might be shot due to the low AC reading across wires 2 and 3? I'm thinking that my regulator and regulator wiring is fine right now, but maybe there is a stator problem? A stator problem does seem to be a reasonable conclusion, however I need to think a little more about why the AC voltage would read the way you have measured it but the resistance in the coils were all the same. Outside of an internal short to ground, I am not reasonably convinced of anything else that could cause that behavior. If I get some time later and someone else doesn't chime in, I'll go fire my bike up and repeat the measurement to see what I end up with. I'm open to suggestions... My further responses are in Red
phertwo Posted June 20, 2011 Author #43 Posted June 20, 2011 Thanks for the response LilBeaver. This all is a little disheartening right now I'd have to admit. I could just try buying the new stator, but I hate throwing parts at a problem. I will try to do a little more probing. I suppose I could always try changing the rectifier output so that it just goes straight to the battery with new wiring. If it still doesn't charge the battery then I know it's the stator. I'm not looking forward to chopping up my wiring harness though. LilBeaver, if you could take those readings from your stator output that would be amazing. But, that's a lot of work to get to either of the connectors and I wouldn't expect anyone to go to that much trouble for me. I'm definitively not a fan of electrical problems!
Freebird Posted June 20, 2011 #44 Posted June 20, 2011 Here is another little test. This is for a first gen but it should be pretty much the same. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=811
Flyinfool Posted June 20, 2011 #45 Posted June 20, 2011 It is that 0.3ohms to ground that has me messed up. I'm wondering if one of the 3 output wires might be pinched and/or grounded somewhere. The only explanation that I can think of for the one low AC reading off of the stator is that there is the possibility that there is a poor connection that will allow the couple of milliamps from the ohm meter but not be good enough to handle the higher power output while running. In addition to what others have said I would redo the AC voltage test between each pair of wires to eliminate the possibility of a bad meter connection messing with the results of the first test. I would also check each of the 3 wires to ground, With the connector unplugged, for AC voltage with the engine running, and for resistance to ground with the engine off. And just for giggles, does your ohm meter show 0 ohms when you touch the leads together not all of them do. I agree with more testing before spending more money, I also hate throwing money/parts at a problem till it goes away and you still never know for sure what the problem was or if it is really fixed.
phertwo Posted June 20, 2011 Author #46 Posted June 20, 2011 Thanks Freebird and Flyinfool, I will do these checks tonight. From that article it sounds like my alternator has gone bad. I will at least price the new one out - but I'm guessing the Buckeye high output stator will be much cheaper than the Dealer stock unit.
Flyinfool Posted June 20, 2011 #47 Posted June 20, 2011 If/when my stator ever dies I will be getting the high output one from Buckeye. When you order the gasket for the side cover to get at the stator, don't forget to order the gasket for the middle gear case cover and the crush washer that goes on the bottom screw of the middle gear case cover. Those have to come off in the process.
phertwo Posted June 21, 2011 Author #48 Posted June 21, 2011 Well I did a little more testing last night. I measured the resistance of the stator from the white connector closest to the stator, under the seat area. White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~0.3 ohms White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~0.3 ohms White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~0.3 ohms White wire 1 to ground (screw on clutch plate cover) = ~0.5 ohms White wire 2 to ground (screw on clutch plate cover) = ~0.5 ohms White wire 3 to ground (screw on clutch plate cover) = ~0.2 ohms I measured the AC voltage of the stator from the same white connector. White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~30.0 VAC White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~30.0 VAC White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~2.1 VAC So I'm pointing my finger at the stator now. I have placed an order with Rick from Buckeye for the new high output stator but I will stick with the 2 stock regulators that I have. I'm not sure if the original one is faulty, but if it isn't then at least I have a spare. I also ordered a set of those Rivco horns that Buckeye sells since my stock horns are as loud as a turtle crying. I'll have to give an update when I get the new stator installed.. Any other thoughts?
Flyinfool Posted June 21, 2011 #49 Posted June 21, 2011 As you take it apart look closely at the wire 3 circuit. It is that circuit that is grounded. It could still very well be a fried winding that is connected to wire 3 and the coil its self is grounded some where in the windings. If it is a grounded coil it should be obvious as soon as you get the cover off. If the wires on the new stator have the cloth cover going thru the rubber grommet, spray it real good with brake cleaner to get any oil or mold release out of the cloth and then rub some black RTV into the cloth where it goes thru the grommet on both sides of the grommet. Otherwise the engine oil will wick its way thru the fibers of the cloth wire cover and you will have a pesky oil leak.
phertwo Posted June 21, 2011 Author #50 Posted June 21, 2011 Thanks Flyinfool. I honestly don't know how to repay you guys for your hand-holding with helping me.. I will see if I can get some time to open those side covers tonight. I will take some pictures if anything looks a-miss. . . . I am getting a little riding in though, my girlfriend is taking me around town for coffee on the back of her Yamaha Vino scooter. Is it bad of me to admit that I actually am enjoying being a passenger even though its slightly embarrassing? I think that she likes it though.
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