305 Chev - Boat I/O - I could use some help.

[GolfVenture]

I need some serious help. My boat has not run since 2000. My how time flies. Yep it has been 11 years since I’ve had my boat in the water. This is my boat story.

I bought a new 20 foot 1988 Bayliner with a Chev 305 I/O. For 12 years my family were happy boaters. We skied, tubed, knee board, and fished. Got some great fishing stories?

It was July summer of 2000. My family was on Alder Lake moving at about 35 mph when all of a sudden the engine quit like the emergency kill switch was pulled.

The engine just died. No sputtering no back fire, no nothing, just died.

I opened the hood and scratch my head. Hit the starter and it started right up.

It ran great the rest of the day.

At the end of the August 2000 we were again at Alder Lake.

This time we anchored and the family swam and played all day.

It was time to head home.

Hit the starter and it would not start.

No coughing, no back fire no nothing.

The Engine turned over just fine, until the battery gave up.

I got towed in.

Got home, put the boat in the garage.

The garage is heated with 2 house furnaces so I never winterized.

I planned to work on the Boat that fall but never did.

Oh and I did not know about Seafoam

So now it is spring of 2001, May.

I pulled the boat out and got it ready to start.

Bingo on the 3rd hit to the started it came to life.

I let it warm up to operating temperature.

I shut it off and put it back into the garage.

Taking the Boat to Lake Tapps

I like always start the boat at home and get it all warmed up.

I do this so I get my boat out away from the docks ASAPly.

So other boater can waist everyone else’s time trying to get their engine started creating a dock jam.

I’m on a plane moving at about 25 mph and loving it.

But it wasn’t a minute later when I felt the oh so slightest of a partial engine miss..

It was so slight that only I noticed it.

Then another miss, and then another and another.

The miss became very noticeable to all.

The missing got so bad that the boat could not be kept on a plane.

I idled in gear back to the dock.

Got the boat home and left it outside to work on a few days later.

I’m back at the boat again now.

I start the engine and it springs to life.

I let it get to operating temperature

Only this time I let the engine cont to run.

Soon I felt that oh so slight of a miss.

Soon the engine missed more.

I gave it more throttle.

The engine did pick up speed.

But soon the engine revs began to surge.

The revs slowed down then sped up on its own.

Slowed down then speed up .

This surging was on its on accord.

After I last gave it more throttle I did not touch the throttle until it finally died.

The surging was so definite.

But when at the lowest rev of surging on last time the engine quit.

At that point I could not get the engine started the rest of the summer

I tried carb cleaner and that did not work.

Well life goes on and soon it was fall and back the boat went into the garage.

Next Spring I pulled the boat out again.

Started right up.

Then the missing reoccurred.

The surging reoccurred.

Once the engine died after the initial start of the year.

I could not get the engine to start again.

What it did do as the starter cranked.

The engine acted like it waanted to start but just couldn't..

For it kinda of wanted to start but just could not get enough life to maintain on its own.

I decided that I would rather put in new parts than to pay a shop to trouble shoot it..

So I did the following.

1) New spark plugs

2) New plug wires

3) New Points and Condenser

4) New rotor can cap

5) New coil

6) New internal carb filter

7) New fuel water separator

8) New Fuel pump

9) New rebuilt carb-

10) New fuel

Still no luck

I got so frustrated that I purchased a couple of used jet skis.

That was a mistake for the boat, for now I have fewer reasons in getting the boat fixed.

Soon the boat sat a couple of years in the garage.

One year I took it to my auto mechanic.

I told him this same story.

He said lets convert it from points and condenser to electronic ignition.

He did that and got it started but the missing and surging soon reappeared until it stop running, then he too could not get it started.

He networked with his online auto mechanic but with no luck.

He went through the entire fuel system and electrical and still no luck.

Most recently he wants to pull the heads to see what might be going on there.

Well he started to get behind on some of his other auto customers.

So I took my boat back waiting for a better time for him.

He did not charge me anything for he said that he did not fix it.

So this is where I’m at.

So are there any takers here in helping me resolve my Boat’s Chev 305 engine issue.

If so before providing suggestions are there any questions that I can answer.

.

[Reddog170]

Grab a meter and check the power to the distributor. Sounds like you may have a fusible link that is bad, when it warms up it opens and breaks the circuit. Another possible is a bad emergency kill switch, had a boat get me with one of those.

If it were me here is what I would do to start tracking down things and getting her going: Drain all fluids and flush systems

Grab a timing light and hook it up just to check ignition (will at least let you know for sure if it is an electrical or fuel problem) I am leaning toward electrical myself

check all fuses, replace any that look old and worn

That should get you off to a good start. Let us know how it goes. Shaun

[Rocket]

So are there any takers here in helping me resolve my Boat’s Chev 305 engine issue.

If so before providing suggestions are there any questions that I can answer.

.

 

My brother had a bayliner, also with a 305. The 40 amp circuit breaker (at rear of intake manifold) had eventually gone kaput. Might be an idea to check that & the fuse block connections, ignition switch as well.

 

 

[winston66]

I once had a similar boat fitted with a Mercruiser 351 windsor and i/o leg . Similar problems, these were resolved when the internal fuel filter gauze in the banjo fitting at the fuel line attachment to the carb was removed and cleaned properly. It had become blocked with the very fine rust residue from a dirty fuel tank , This rust residue powder had passed through the factory fitted in line fuel filter, and completly blocked this much finer filter medium in the banjo fitting. Also on my boat there was a iginiton cut out switch attached to the gear leaver which was momenterally engaged when selecting either forward or reverse gear, this was to enable a smooth drive engagment when engaging the gear as it momenterally cut the iginition in order to lessen the stress on the gear box. Could this possibly be mal functioning on your boat if there is a similar overide fitted. This is just a couple of suggestions to check as it seems that you have tried most other things , including the professionals. Cheers , Winston66 Australia:lightbulb::crying:

[GolfVenture]

Yes, I need to change all the fluids first.

A) Change the Oil

B) Change the Rad Fluid (Probably can do this later)

C) Change the Power Steering Fluid (Probably can do this later)

D) Change the Out drive Oil (Probably can do this later)

E) Flush out the fuel system

…..1) Clean the tank

……….The tank is surrounded by fiberglass.

……….So the best I can do is to siphon the tank empty and let the rest air dry.

……….Not sure how to get rid of any old varnish in the tank.

……2) Flush the fuel line

……….Unhook both ends of the fuel line.

……….Spray carb cleaner in one end and drain out the other end.

…...3) Clean the carb

……….I’m thinking that I need to take the carb apart, clean with carb cleaner

……….Reassemble with new gaskets.

……….The carb was a newly rebuilt carb with no run time on it.

………. Or just get another rebuilt carb

…….4) Replace the small filter in the carb where the fuel line connects to.

I should also remove the spark plug and spray some penetrating oil into the cylinders, to provide some lubrication so when the engine turns over the rings and cylinder walls are not so dry. My thoughts are to use WD40 unless there is something better to use.

It will be a while before I get to this but I will get to it.

If I could get a suggestion as to how to clean the tank out would be helpful.

[Hummingbird]

Please take this with a grain of salt --

 

Lately, I've seen several marine v8's for sale on craigs list. I understand the need to find the culprit, however with time and money to be invested, perhaps a complete change out is in order.

[saddlebum]

1- What year is the engine and what type of ignition system does it have ?

 

2- does it always fire up cold and die as it gets hot ?

 

3- when it dies do you have to wait for the engine to cool down before it will fire up again ?

 

4- When the engine is running, do you feel the power dropping off so that you need increase throttle ?

 

Certian years of GM engines, with electronic ignition, still using a distributor, had a condition, that fell within the catagory of the above questions. This was caused by th perminat magnet in the distributor. The magnet was made of a semisoft type material. If engine oil leaked up past the shaft seal the magnet would swell up a bit and then it would devolop hairline cracks in it. As the engine got warmer these cracks would increase in size and the engine start to falter and then shut down. Once the engine cooled down these cracks got smaller and the engine would fire up again. Try getting your hands on another distributor and trying it.

Edited May 14, 2011 by saddlebum

[BigBoyinMS]

It's almost definitely an electrical issue from your description of the symptoms. And since he has already converted the distributor (or at least the internals of it) then the problem is going to be somewhere before the distributor. I would start by checking for loose connections and then for abrasions in any of the wiring... in addition to the suggestions in the above replies.

 

That's my nickels worth. Good luck!

[saddlebum]

Disregard my previous post. I missed the part were you mentioned points and condesor so obviously my previous post does not apply.

When it quits but still cranks over do you still have spark? If so you may have a condition known as vapour lock. this is the result of fuel overheatng in the carb. try adding a spacer between the carb and intake.

You may also want to check for any possible intake or vacum leaks. When the engine begins to die try increasing the choke a bit to see if runnig appears to improve. You may also want to check to see that the timing chain has not stretched sometimes when this happens it will run while the choke is on but as the engine warms up and the choke opens the fuel mix is to lean to keep an engine with a stretched chain running.

If you do not have spark then follow up trouble shooting for an electrical fault.

Edited May 17, 2011 by saddlebum

[jlh3rd]

everything said above is true.........but, you need to run the motor till it quits....then if/when it does not start...check for spark.......then ,pull your fuel line. get yourself a good container, crank the motor a few times and see if the fuel is flowing like it should......better yet would be to check your fuel pressure with a gauge...........i do think your problem is electrical however............

[Marcarl]

I would look for a broken electrical wire to the ignition. The insulation may look alright, but the wire might be broken, thus causing a problem at times when it separates, but everything is fine when it touches. Give the wires a good pull, if the wire is broken it will come apart at the break, if the wire is good, nothing will happen.

[phill12]

Change the coil and wire if you haven't yet. If this doesn't work you have a broken wire going from the coil to the Distuburtor. Also some time the ground in side the dist. will be bad.

[saddlebum]

Another thing you can check, is the disributor shaft, for too much play as well. I have seen where the shaft bushings are worn, to the point that when the engine gets hot the shaft play in the bushings increase and effect the way the points open and close. It often results in the points not opening enough as the engine gets hot sometimes not opening at all depending on how badly the shaft and bushing are worn. A good indication is if your points prematurely build up too much pitting on the contacts. As the point gap gets smaller you start to get arching across the contacts and this will cause the pitting to build up.

Too elimanate any electrical condition try running a wire fom the Battery NEG- directly to the engine block, and from the battery POS+ directly to the coil POS+. If the problem goes away check your electrical system, If the problem remains, check the engine and dist for faults.

Also check to see if your ignition system uses a balast resister. it is a white ceramic block. If you have one temporarly bypass it with a jumper wire. if the fault remains the resister is ok. If the fault goes away replace it. These resisters usually fail altogether but have been known to work fine until the get hot and then they start failing

Boy you are really making me go back in time to when I started as an apprentice 40 years ago. I can actaully smell the shop as I sit here.

Edited May 17, 2011 by saddlebum

[OB-1]

As many have already stated; this is, or at least was, an electrical problem. You may also have a varnish problem in the fuel system/carburetor by now.

[rlyons]

I once had a similar boat fitted with a Mercruiser 351 windsor and i/o leg . Similar problems, these were resolved when the internal fuel filter gauze in the banjo fitting at the fuel line attachment to the carb was removed and cleaned properly. It had become blocked with the very fine rust residue from a dirty fuel tank , This rust residue powder had passed through the factory fitted in line fuel filter, and completly blocked this much finer filter medium in the banjo fitting. Also on my boat there was a iginiton cut out switch attached to the gear leaver which was momenterally engaged when selecting either forward or reverse gear, this was to enable a smooth drive engagment when engaging the gear as it momenterally cut the iginition in order to lessen the stress on the gear box. Could this possibly be mal functioning on your boat if there is a similar overide fitted. This is just a couple of suggestions to check as it seems that you have tried most other things , including the professionals. Cheers , Winston66 Australia:lightbulb::crying:

I too had one with a v-6 GM engine and the ignition cutout on the throttle linkage went bad and it acted just like yours.

[dray]

pick up coil wire is where id start at this point change the distributor and give it a try use one from a old car motor even a 350 will work

[dynodon]

Been a long time since I had a boat, and they weren't that big or powerful, but don't all boats get their cooling from the water they are in? You mentioned radiator, does this use a radiator instead of any outside water? Thought I/O used water for the engine or exhaust manifolds or something, and wonder if the water pump is working right? Does engine temp ever rise at any time when this is happening?

 

Just for the heck of it, I assume this has hydraulic lifters, is is possible they are pumping up or are adjusted too tight and when hot they cause the valves to never close properly? But then it should run again when it cools down. Same for junk in the fuel system getting on the intake tube/sock. When it shuts off, it should start back up again after a while when the stuff falls back off.

 

I think you need a gas cap overhaul. Remove the gas cap and drive a new boat underneath it (then it will turn out the problem was in the cap! Sorry. Hope you get the problem solved.

 

I traded my last boat (gave me many troubles) to a guy with a motorcycle...I was a much happier man!

[lonewolf96]

I worked on these things for about 4 years. one issue I ran into was the balist resistor would go bad. it is in the wiring harness and almost impossible to find. the easy way to check if the resistor is your issue is to let the engine run until you start to see the miss and connect a jumper wire from the battery to the positive side of your coil. If the miss goes away then you simply go your local auto parts store and tell them you need a balist resistor out of a 70's model chrysler, run a new wire from the key switch to the coil and install the resistor near the engine in the new wire you run. Hope this helps you. It's a part that most people don't think about but I have seen them go bad before.

[slickster]

Take a jumper wire from the + on the battery to the + on the coil, that will eliminate the switch, wiring, ballast resistor etc, and see how the boat runs....something ain't right and it sound electrical....

[Grump]

Yes, I need to change all the fluids first.

 

A) Change the Oil

B) Change the Rad Fluid (Probably can do this later)

C) Change the Power Steering Fluid (Probably can do this later)

D) Change the Out drive Oil (Probably can do this later)

E) Flush out the fuel system

…..1) Clean the tank

……….The tank is surrounded by fiberglass.

……….So the best I can do is to siphon the tank empty and let the rest air dry.

……….Not sure how to get rid of any old varnish in the tank.

……2) Flush the fuel line

……….Unhook both ends of the fuel line.

……….Spray carb cleaner in one end and drain out the other end.

…...3) Clean the carb

……….I’m thinking that I need to take the carb apart, clean with carb cleaner

……….Reassemble with new gaskets.

……….The carb was a newly rebuilt carb with no run time on it.

………. Or just get another rebuilt carb

…….4) Replace the small filter in the carb where the fuel line connects to.

 

I should also remove the spark plug and spray some penetrating oil into the cylinders, to provide some lubrication so when the engine turns over the rings and cylinder walls are not so dry. My thoughts are to use WD40 unless there is something better to use.

 

It will be a while before I get to this but I will get to it.

 

If I could get a suggestion as to how to clean the tank out would be helpful.

add an inline fuel filter . if you got room . if your tank has crap in it that will pick it up befor it gets to the carbe . as for the tank i don.t know. i use out boards .

[BuddyRich]

I had a 2000 Chris Craft with the 305 in it. Same thing. Finally replaced the safety switch. That's what it turned out to be. Just jumper the switch leads to test it. What was happening was that is was intermittent from wear or the constant spring pressure.

[hunter 1500]

My brother had a bayliner, also with a 305. The 40 amp circuit breaker (at rear of intake manifold) had eventually gone kaput. Might be an idea to check that & the fuse block connections, ignition switch as well.

 

 

Had this same thing happen to me.

[Shamue]

just a thought, if it has electronic ignition. the module is under the dist. cap. and are known for becoming intermittent as they go bad and it's usually after it has been running and the module is hot when you shut the engine down. I would suggest replacing that module if electronic ign. the 2 very small connection wires can break down inside the sheathing and cause the same issue as described. so i agree with several here, the dist. electronics would be the place i'd start.

 

 

I need some serious help. My boat has not run since 2000. My how time flies. Yep it has been 11 years since I’ve had my boat in the water. This is my boat story.

I bought a new 20 foot 1988 Bayliner with a Chev 305 I/O. For 12 years my family were happy boaters. We skied, tubed, knee board, and fished. Got some great fishing stories?

 

It was July summer of 2000. My family was on Alder Lake moving at about 35 mph when all of a sudden the engine quit like the emergency kill switch was pulled.

The engine just died. No sputtering no back fire, no nothing, just died.

I opened the hood and scratch my head. Hit the starter and it started right up.

It ran great the rest of the day.

 

At the end of the August 2000 we were again at Alder Lake.

This time we anchored and the family swam and played all day.

It was time to head home.

Hit the starter and it would not start.

No coughing, no back fire no nothing.

The Engine turned over just fine, until the battery gave up.

I got towed in.

 

Got home, put the boat in the garage.

The garage is heated with 2 house furnaces so I never winterized.

I planned to work on the Boat that fall but never did.

Oh and I did not know about Seafoam

 

So now it is spring of 2001, May.

I pulled the boat out and got it ready to start.

Bingo on the 3rd hit to the started it came to life.

I let it warm up to operating temperature.

I shut it off and put it back into the garage.

 

Taking the Boat to Lake Tapps

I like always start the boat at home and get it all warmed up.

I do this so I get my boat out away from the docks ASAPly.

So other boater can waist everyone else’s time trying to get their engine started creating a dock jam.

I’m on a plane moving at about 25 mph and loving it.

But it wasn’t a minute later when I felt the oh so slightest of a partial engine miss..

It was so slight that only I noticed it.

Then another miss, and then another and another.

The miss became very noticeable to all.

The missing got so bad that the boat could not be kept on a plane.

I idled in gear back to the dock.

Got the boat home and left it outside to work on a few days later.

 

I’m back at the boat again now.

I start the engine and it springs to life.

I let it get to operating temperature

Only this time I let the engine cont to run.

Soon I felt that oh so slight of a miss.

Soon the engine missed more.

I gave it more throttle.

The engine did pick up speed.

But soon the engine revs began to surge.

The revs slowed down then sped up on its own.

Slowed down then speed up .

This surging was on its on accord.

After I last gave it more throttle I did not touch the throttle until it finally died.

The surging was so definite.

But when at the lowest rev of surging on last time the engine quit.

At that point I could not get the engine started the rest of the summer

I tried carb cleaner and that did not work.

Well life goes on and soon it was fall and back the boat went into the garage.

 

Next Spring I pulled the boat out again.

Started right up.

Then the missing reoccurred.

The surging reoccurred.

Once the engine died after the initial start of the year.

I could not get the engine to start again.

What it did do as the starter cranked.

The engine acted like it waanted to start but just couldn't..

For it kinda of wanted to start but just could not get enough life to maintain on its own.

 

I decided that I would rather put in new parts than to pay a shop to trouble shoot it..

So I did the following.

1) New spark plugs

2) New plug wires

3) New Points and Condenser

4) New rotor can cap

5) New coil

6) New internal carb filter

7) New fuel water separator

8) New Fuel pump

9) New rebuilt carb-

10) New fuel

Still no luck

 

I got so frustrated that I purchased a couple of used jet skis.

That was a mistake for the boat, for now I have fewer reasons in getting the boat fixed.

Soon the boat sat a couple of years in the garage.

 

One year I took it to my auto mechanic.

I told him this same story.

He said lets convert it from points and condenser to electronic ignition.

He did that and got it started but the missing and surging soon reappeared until it stop running, then he too could not get it started.

 

He networked with his online auto mechanic but with no luck.

He went through the entire fuel system and electrical and still no luck.

Most recently he wants to pull the heads to see what might be going on there.

 

Well he started to get behind on some of his other auto customers.

So I took my boat back waiting for a better time for him.

He did not charge me anything for he said that he did not fix it.

 

So this is where I’m at.

 

So are there any takers here in helping me resolve my Boat’s Chev 305 engine issue.

If so before providing suggestions are there any questions that I can answer.

.

[karges]

Apologies for jumping in here w/ my own issues, but this thread came up in my Google search and I'm desperately looking for some guidance before I start throwing more money than the boat is worth to a marine mechanic!!! Any help would be appreciated, I noticed Saddlebum had some great input in this thread, but I couldn't figure out how to message him directly.

 

I have an old 88 Bayliner 2150 Capri Cuddy w/ a GM 5L 305 V8 w/ points & condensor etc. The boat runs flawlessly from a cold start, and runs, stops and starts fine on a leisurely 7 knot cocktail cruise. But if the engine is worked harder, like taking the kids tubing, or cruising for a while at 3000 rpm, it suddenly will have difficulty starting and maintaining idle, and when it does turn over, the idle is weak, causing it to immediately die when put into forward or reverse gear. Very frustrating, has left me stranded on the water for an hour or more until I presume it cools a bit and I am able to just barely get it in gear without it dying so I can get back to the dock. In the morning, it starts up and idles just fine.

 

Thanks again for any input!!!!! Chris

[ragtop69gs]

I suggest you both check out this boating forum. When I have had boat issues I couldn't solve the great folks there have always helped me get back on the water.