tool

[oldgoat]

anyone every heard of a tool called grabit?

im working on pulling the radiator on my 84 yamaha venture got some things off but need to remove the chrome plastic covers and of course there are 2 verry rounded off screws there. i tried a bigger phillips screw driver and they moved about 3 turns when that damn screw driver slipped and rounded them off to where it looks like i have to use some kind of extractor. and it looks like the grabit tool just drills and burnish then flip the tool and remove the screw. of course i have to get a cordless drill as there is no outlets in the storage unit for a elcectric one.

if any one else has any ideas on removing these screws let me know.

[twigg]

anyone every heard of a tool called grabit?

im working on pulling the radiator on my 84 yamaha venture got some things off but need to remove the chrome plastic covers and of course there are 2 verry rounded off screws there. i tried a bigger phillips screw driver and they moved about 3 turns when that damn screw driver slipped and rounded them off to where it looks like i have to use some kind of extractor. and it looks like the grabit tool just drills and burnish then flip the tool and remove the screw. of course i have to get a cordless drill as there is no outlets in the storage unit for a elcectric one.

if any one else has any ideas on removing these screws let me know.

 

Easy out!

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE]Amazon.com: 8 piece Easy Out Screw Bolt Extractor Set: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/510s0pU6RfL.@@AMEPARAM@@510s0pU6RfL[/ame]

 

There ya go

[Monty]

Reverse drill bit.

[bongobobny]

Vice grips...

[RedRider]

impact screwdriver. Works every time. Well, most of the time.

 

RR

[oldgoat]

impact driver i tried that thats what made it worse then the oversize screwdriver got it to move some. cant get vice grips on it as its in a recess hole easy out looks nice and cheap too i take it its a drill a piolt hole then use the easy out?

im takeing my time witht his i should have had the radiator out but witht he limited tools i have. im going to need a cordless drill unless there is an essy out that does not require that. i do have a t handle from an old tap and die set my dad had. but i borrowed out the set to a half brother and of course all i got back was the handle? i saw some cheap cordless drills with revers for $20 and this easy out set from amazon looks like an option. thanks every one:fingers-crossed-emo

[twigg]

With my set of easyouts you drill the hole with one end of the bit .. switch it around, stick the drill in reverse and away you go.

[oldgoat]

yeah twigg thats what this thing called grabit is suppose to do. willy may hayes a tv ad pitched that tool. now i tried his oxy clean and it worked LOL so who knows maybe this tool will too LOL

[twigg]

yeah twigg thats what this thing called grabit is suppose to do. willy may hayes a tv ad pitched that tool. now i tried his oxy clean and it worked LOL so who knows maybe this tool will too LOL

 

That tool looks just like mine

[bkuhr]

Easy out!

 

Amazon.com: 8 piece Easy Out Screw Bolt Extractor Set: Home Improvement

 

There ya go

 

I use this type of extractor almost exclusley, but be very careful. If you break the tip of the extractor off in the screw, you are scr.....d. High carbon extractor steel will prevent redrilling the hole.

 

I have, when possible, drilled completely thru the screw as a precaution so if needed can tap a wire in from behind a push broke extractor out.

 

I have seen the 'grabit' type extractors, and they look promising, but have not tried them yet.

+1 to use reverse drill bit to drill the hole, and you may not even need an extractor

[lonestarmedic]

This tool is much like the Drill-out kit. It is a 1/4" hex shank. The working end is a cone shaped bit with left hand spiral flutes. The opposite end has a cone shaped drill bit to create a proper pilot hole. The idea is to make a pilot hole first. Then set up the extractor and put the drill in reverse and push it firmly into the pilot hole AS THE DRILL IS SPINNING IN REVERSE. I have a set of these from Sears. They work great for stripped out screws in wood. I would imagine they would work fairly well for the radiator trim screws. Once jarred loose, they should spin out easily. I have also seen them in Auto Parts Stores. The drill-out is made by Alden Corporation. It is a bit more complex but I have had good results if the fastener is not rusted solid but just has a stripped head. Best results are achieved by reading the directions on these tools. I did the typical man thing the first time and just started using it. Ended up with bad results and a lot of time wasted. I prefer the Drill-out tools. A bit more complex but they seem to grab better.

 

JB

[twigg]

I use this type of extractor almost exclusley, but be very careful. If you break the tip of the extractor off in the screw, you are scr.....d. High carbon extractor steel will prevent redrilling the hole.

 

I have, when possible, drilled completely thru the screw as a precaution so if needed can tap a wire in from behind a push broke extractor out.

 

I have seen the 'grabit' type extractors, and they look promising, but have not tried them yet.

+1 to use reverse drill bit to drill the hole, and you may not even need an extractor

 

If you find yourself in this unfortunate position there is a process called "spark erosion" that will remove the hardened steel.

 

Any good machine shop should have the equipment, but it might not be cheap.

[Taking it EZ]

Bought the Grabit set one day at my local Do It Best, threw it in my tool drawer and forgot about it till one day tried to remove the brake reservoir cover on my old Honda and rounded out the screw heads. Got out the cordless and the Grabit set. Took about 20 seconds to remove the 2 screws. Very impressed with it

[BigBoyinMS]

The few times that I have used these they worked like a charm.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952154000P

[BlueVenture87]

IMHO, a few things to bear in mind, first if the screw heads are boogered up there are TWO causes for it. First if they stripped out on the way in from using the wrong tool etc- easy outs, impact drivers and the like are great here. If it's messed up because it's galled, cross threaded or corroded easy outs and the like are asking for trouble becaust the threaded body will be as stuck as was when you started drilling. Sometimes, especially with plastic covers etc it's better to sacrifice the cover to get a better grip on the screw or to gain access for penetrating oil than it is to go right for the drill. Very true if the screw is locked up in an expensive machined part. I like to work at it in stages, least destructive / cheapest to fix first. If you can let the oil work for as many days as you can. Second, try to grab the head with a vise grip, No joy? Then maybe attempt to grind a slot in the screw head with a Dremel for a slotted driver or impact unit. (This is especially tough without 110V power but we used to run Dremel tools on a 12V car or boat battery and inverter) Can the head be knocked off to release the part while leaving a stub to grab? I've never had luck hand drilling a pilot hole down the center of a screw body by hand, upside down, in the dirt without knicking the edge of the thread and locking the parts together forever so I try to stay on top. Easy outs are a last resort. If you feel lucky and you need to drill a screw that holds a plascic, watch thh speed as the drilling can heat up enough to melt the part you want to save!

 

Luck

 

-Jim

[saddlebum]

Try drilling a hole and then tapping in a torx bit. It helps if you grind the end of the torx bit flat so as to leave a sharp edge on the end. this helps it cut the groves easier as you tap it into the hole also slightly countersinking the edge of the hole will help keep the bit centered as you start tapping it in. This is all I have used for an easy out for years and unlike the spiral type easy outs you can gently work the screw back and forth to help loosen it.

Second option is to drill a large enough hole in the head so it will snap off of the stem, remove the cover then use vise grips to remove the remainder of the screw.

[CaptainJoe]

I've never had any luck with easy outs either. Usually there is a reason the head stripped off/bolt didn't budge.

 

Drill head off, remove cover and heat the headless shaft. then tap a few ties with a peen hammer and work the screw back and forth using vice grips and some good penetating oil "bk blaster"

 

Aluminum and steel oxidize... do yourself a favor and put the parts back together with anti oxidizing grease, avaliliable at lowes in electrical section for under $5.

 

I religiously do this with my spark plugs and have never had a problem getting one back out...

[twigg]

What we are seeing here is a fine example of how there are a million ways to remove a stuck or damages fastener.

 

All of them work some of the time, none of them work all of the time.

 

Start with the least destructive (Pb Blaster and heat), then gradually work your way right up to Spark Erosion, and hope it comes out before you get there

[saddlebum]

What we are seeing here is a fine example of how there are a million ways to remove a stuck or damages fastener.

 

All of them work some of the time, none of them work all of the time.

 

Start with the least destructive (Pb Blaster and heat), then gradually work your way right up to Spark Erosion, and hope it comes out before you get there

So let me get this straight . . . you are saying not to sart with C-4 1st

[twigg]

So let me get this straight . . . you are saying not to sart with C-4 1st

 

Well you could, but I would caution that you not combine the C4 with the "large hammer" method.