Why does she bogg and loose RPM

[Pam]

:confused24:My 83 boggs and looses RPM on the high side. Starts amd runs great below 3000. Over that she boggs out. New wires and fuel fileter and plugs. I hooked a timing light to each plug wire and all are firing. fresh fuel and even some sea foam. I can feel the fuel pump pulseing. I can only get one carb drain screw out, the rest are all rounded off.(dam philips heads) Any Idea's would me much appreciated

 

 

frank

Edited May 6, 2011 by Pam

[Reddog170]

A couple things come to mind but they both deal with the same thing- fuel. She is not getting enough fuel fast enough. Do you hear a rapid clicking when you first turn the key on before you start it? Basically your fuel pump may be getting weak, you fuel lines may need replacing (I ran into a situation with a riding mower where the inside of the fuel lines had collapsed) Or it may just need the carbs synced. Just my best guess right now. Shaun

[Pam]

The pump clicks in the morning and I did do a carb sync. I will have to look at that hose that runns up to the carbs.

[twigg]

A dirty fuel filter would do this.

 

Heh ... well it did on my Ford Windstar!

[Snaggletooth]

Fuel filter would be my first suspect. It sounds like fuel starvation. Could be anywhere from the petcock pickups, line to the fuel filter, filter itself or the feed line to the carbs.

 

Opps. Said new filter. Did you check to make sure it was clean?

 

I found a lot of rubber particals in my carb filters when I first got my bike from the ole red lines breaking down.

[Venturous Randy]

You may have a new fuel filter and not be getting much fuel to the fuel filter. I suspect if it is fuel and not a collapsed or kinked fuel line, you may have a problem in your tank. Do you run your bike on reserve? I would be tempted to run the bike low on gas and maybe pump out what is left and then open the gas lid and blow air into the hose going to the tank. This may clear any debris you have at the petcock. If it does help your problem, you will need to do a good clean out of the tank. Just make sure any fumes or spray coming from the tank can not be ignited.

I notice you said new wires. Did that include new caps also? These caps have resistors built into them and do get corroded.

Even if you do have a fuel starvation problem, if you fill the carb bowls and immediately go to a hard pull, there should be good power for a short period of time.

RandyA

[Pam]

This is what I have done. New filter and line from the tank. If I disconnect the fuel line from the pump on the inlet side I have good flow. The pump clicks when the key is turned on, I replaced the line from the pump to the carbs last nite (1.00 am) I had to use plastic ski doo hose because I couldn't get the proper hose. Whith every thing all hooked back up the pump pushed the fuel up just to the carbs and there was an air bubble that just would not go away or move into the carbs and through the system. I had to break the connection and cycle the system to move the bubble through. After that I hooked it all back up. The bike started ran warmed up and would hold 5500 rpm on the center stand. Granted there is no load but I am hoping because it wouldn't hold 3500 rpm before. I haven't changed the wire or caps I must have been thinking about doing it when I was posting.

 

Here is hoping frank

[Pam]

This morning it will hardly run. I can see there is no fuel in the fileter or the plastic line. At this point there must be something in the tank and when the mood strikes it it blocks the petcock. I will have to look at the tank.

 

frank:(

[Snaggletooth]

Hi Frank,

 

You are kind of where I was with my problem when it first started acting up. I had changed my fuel filter and had a lot of rust in it. After the new filter it did fine for a while then started acting like your's. I barely got home on that last ride when I started bogging down.

 

I opened the fuel level sending unit cover and it was easy to see the screens for the pick up tubes were shot and loose in the stand pipes. Rust was going directly to the petcock and clogging the lines. I had to do a full tear down and replace all lines, which I should have done the first time, and then coated to tank with epoxy sealer.

 

I even tore down the carbs to clean them out. Once that was done it was fine again and that was two years ago.

 

If I were you I'd start at the source and open the tank to look and go from there. I surely hope you don't have a rust issue like I did and maybe it's just a line going bad.

 

Keep us posted on what you find.

 

Mike

[dingy]

Frank,

 

First this thread, please !!

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880

 

Second, attached is a picture of what the petcock loks like inside it. You have an 83 according to your profile, so yours may not have the on/off valve.

 

The copper colored items are very fine mesh screens that can become clogged and restrict flow.

 

Gary

[bongobobny]

It might be time to clean out and coat your tank. I now recommend Red-Kote for treating your tank inside as well as the other maintenance mentioned here...

[Pam]

Thanks for the tips on this unfortuanatly I won't be able to get at this until tomorrow (Work and Mothers Day) My neighbour is an aircdaft mechanic so I might have an in there for a tank flush and I know he has one of those little canera's to look inside tubing in air frames. I will keep you guys up to speed on this

 

frank

[Pam]

So this is where I am sitting today. Bike fire up this morning but ran poor. I limped it into the shed and drained the fuel out into a container. It didn't look to bad. Went and borrowed my neighbour's eye on a wire thing and poked it down the tank (sure hard to recegnize stuff) Right way I could see rust and junk. Took the seat off and pulled the sending unit. I saw the top off a sea foam can and a couple of moths. Stuck a magnet in to the tank and it came back with all kinds of metal/rust. Long story short the tank is now out anf completly drained. The remaing fuel was about the color of a 30 year old farm tractor that was originally bright red. I am thinking it is time to so a tank seal. Hopefully I won't have to earch to the end of the earth for a good sealer. My neighbour uses a product called sloshing sealer made by Randolph Products for pin holes in aircraft. He didn't know how good it wood work on a rusted tank. I will have to check with my auto parts guy to see if he can get por-15

 

frank

[twigg]

Loved the description

 

A few things to consider.

 

You have to get the rust out before sealing. Use duct tape for all the holes then chuck a pound or two of old nuts, bolts, ball bearings etc into the tank. Seal it up and shake it till your arms fall off.

 

When you are well rested, shake it some more ... and do this several times.

 

Clean the tank of the junk, and swill out the remaining crap with some kerosene.

 

Once it has dried out you can use a phosphorous based rust cure. Pour it in, seal it up, shake it around then drain and clean again.

 

Then .... You need to check for pinholes. Throw a flashlight in there in a darkened room and you should see any holes.

 

Failing that, seal it up well and use low pressure with the tank submerged and watch for bubbles.

 

THEN you are ready for the sealer.

 

Good luck.

[wes0778]

+1 on thr POR products.

Over the years as "redneck repairs" I've used fiber glass resin. Just keep rotating the tank 'til it hardens.

[Snaggletooth]

Before you decide to "rubberize" your tank, take a read on this product.

 

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

 

I used this stuff two years ago on my '84 tank after discovering how bad the rust was. There is no need to get ALL the rust out as the expoxy bonds even tighter to the rough surface. Power washed the inside at the car wash, did the old nuts and bolt shake down a few times and power washer again. Dried it, flushed with Acetone and coated it. The inside feels like a Thermos bottle and I have had not fleck of rust develop since.

 

I've used and recommended the other types of coatings in the past, but this stuff is way easier to work with, no need to acid treat the tank (huge plus) and I see no chance of it breaking down in the future.

 

It costs a lil more, but it's a one time treatment for rust, possible thin spots and any developing pinholes. I've done two more tanks for friends since I did mine and it did the trick for both of them.

 

Good stuff. Check it out.

 

My

 

Mike

[Yammer Dan]

Before you decide to "rubberize" your tank, take a read on this product.

 

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

 

I used this stuff two years ago on my '84 tank after discovering how bad the rust was. There is no need to get ALL the rust out as the expoxy bonds even tighter to the rough surface. Power washed the inside at the car wash, did the old nuts and bolt shake down a few times and power washer again. Dried it, flushed with Acetone and coated it. The inside feels like a Thermos bottle and I have had not fleck of rust develop since.

 

I've used and recommended the other types of coatings in the past, but this stuff is way easier to work with, no need to acid treat the tank (huge plus) and I see no chance of it breaking down in the future.

 

It costs a lil more, but it's a one time treatment for rust, possible thin spots and any developing pinholes. I've done two more tanks for friends since I did mine and it did the trick for both of them.

 

Good stuff. Check it out.

 

My

 

Mike

 

Looks like another good one to keep listed somewhere.

[bongobobny]

Red-Kote is available on Fleabay, works great!!

 

I used a big box of galvanized roofing nails on mine...

[Pam]

This is where it sits today.....I used the airplane repair stuff in the tank and let it cure for about a week. Put the bike back together and let it cure some more. Put in another new filter, Poured some gas in it and she fire right up and after some rough running she cleared right up and idled away with no choke. When she was warmed up she reved fine held RPM. Pretty happy at this point......This is all on the center stand of course. Since the bike has been laid up the insurance has run out, and it has rained almost none stop. If the rain ever quits I will limp it accross the hay field and pretend I an an ariplane and try out that paved run way. Most likly going to have to wait a bit on the insurance because of the cost here. $1200.00 for a year.

 

I will keep you folks up to speed on the runway trials......If it ever stops raining.

 

frank

[twigg]

Jeez!

 

Where do you live?

 

I just paid $50 for insurance. I know it's only Liability, but the limits are set fairly high. I should get a quote for full coverage and see what they say.

[friesman]

Pam lives in Manitoba Canada where they have provincially run vehicle registration and insurance bundled together. No competition and Manitobas prices are high even compared to the rest of Canada.

My 85 venture runs about 60 bucks a month here in Saskatchewan (next door to Manitoba) but I can just pay for it month by month, I am not sure what the rules are in Manitoba. My Insurance covers collision with 500 ded and liability. I also buy storage insurance for my bike that runs me about 75 bucks a year for 5k replacement protection as my bike sits about 3 or 4 months a year.

 

Brian

[Trader]

Pam....once you get it on the strip I hope it "flys" for you

 

After all ....it IS a first Gen!

[Pam]

This is how the insurance works here in Frendly Manitoba... The 1200 is for the year with full coverage theft fire etc. They have the year divided into an off season and a riding season which start around May 1 and runs to end of Oct. I think. The bulk of the payments come in those months. In the off season when the snow and ice etc are on the road it is only about 5.00 a month. Not worth putting lay up coverage on because you are still covored. I could load the bike in a truck and drive to where it is warm and ride for 5.00 a month with full coverage in the off season. I know we are getting hosed, They say they have the bikes in classes to reflect the high risk bikes,but the rates don't verry from my 83 venture to a 2011 crotch rocket. In my line of work I can only think of one colision involving a highway cruiser (gold wing and he was cut off) and one other time where the guy pulled onto the gravel shoulder and it got away on him. All the other colisions I have been to involved crotch rockets and in many cases unlicensed riders.

 

Might have to retire next year and ride in the winter down south and park it for the summer here.......Still raining today, but had her running like a top on the cneter stand so I am hoping se is all healed up

 

frank

 

frank

[Pam]

OK guys here is where I am at. Didn't make it to the run way (rain rain and more rain) But I had to move the bike today because I hade to get the wife's camaro out for the summer. She started, ran at idle warmed up would hold rpm on the center stand. Popped out of one pipe for a bit but smoothened out. Brought her to the ground and she would hardly pull herself. Got out onto the lawn and didn't think I would get back. Then she would pick up and want to go. I took the fuel line off the tank and put a short line on and ran it for a few second to check the output of the fuel pump. The pump filled a 12 oz pickel jar at about 1500 rpm in about 5 seconds. Then I put the tank (inlet) hose in a can of sea foam and ran it at about 3000 rpm until just before she stalled out. That is where she sits tonight. My thinking was that the sea foam would be going into the jet above the idle jets (hi speed jets)

 

Any suggestions would be really appreciated. I am afraid of pulling the carbs, they scare me. If it was a car or snowmobile I would have no issues with pulling the carbs.

 

Any thoughts please

 

frank