Starter issue?

[motorcycle.jockey]

A couple of months ago I got an 83 Venture Royal project. When I first got it it would turn over slowly. I've had the battery out while I've been working on other things. Now when I try and start her everything dies when I hit the starter button and I need disconnect the battery to get it back.

 

Is there anything I should check before I remove the starter? Is there a way I can do and initial check on the starter before I remove it from the bike?

I know enough about electrical systems to be dangerous. I’m in school at Washtenaw

[dingy]

For a quick and dirty check of the starter, you could jumper it directly from a known good battery.

Before you do next step. MAKE SURE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL. Also on centerstand would be a good idea.

Use jumper cables, put negative side of battery to a good clean ground on frame. With Positive side of jumpers touch the post coming off the starter. Bike should crank if starter is good.

If you do it as described above, the rest of bikes circuitry will be isolated from the jumping battery due to starter solenoid not activated.

If you for some reason decide to try to jump start bike with a battery in a car. DO NOT have car running when bike is jumpered.

Gary

[mlew]

I suspect your battery is going bad, go through like dingy says with known good battery

My 83VR starting has been greatly improved by upgrading the starter and ground wires to #6 and adding the ground strap inside the starter.

[Flyinfool]

Along the slow starter issues.

I was at a local surplus boating supplies place looking for some water proof switches over the weekend.

I found that they have an assortment of premade 4AWG stranded cables in red and black with the lugs already crimped on.

A 3 foot was $5 and a 1 foot was $2.

I just need to figure out what lengths I need for the 3 cables on the 1st Gen, and what hole sizes, and I will be able to do the upgrade for around $15-$20.

Or if they do not have the right lengths premade, they have the red or black cable for $2/foot and the terms for $1.25 ea. I have read that this goes a long way to helping the hot starting issue.

[dingy]

.

Or if they do not have the right lengths premade, they have the red or black cable for $2/foot and the terms for $1.25 ea. I have read that this goes a long way to helping the hot starting issue.

 

Jeff,

 

One of the possible stumbling blocks you may encounter is a crimping tool big enough to do the 4 gauge cable. I crimped and soldered it. Used a torch to heat it up.

 

I was lucky enough and they had one in the maint. shop at work. Sucker is about 2 foot long.

 

I ended up needing less than 5 foot to redo mine. Can't help you with lengths because I have repositioned the battery.

 

McMaster has (10) 4 gauge lugs for around $8, p/n 7113K249

 

You may be able to find cable at a local welding supply house. I used the heavy duty stuff McMaster had. Very flexible, but only came in orange P/N 7818A114 . Bought some black heat shrink to cover it.

 

Gary

[bongobobny]

OK Two known issues with 1st gwens...

1 . Battery cables are anemic at least!!! Replace them with heavier gauge cables.

2. The 2 brush starter is inferior to a 4 brush starter. Available as a Vmax starter or a 2nd gen starter.

 

That being said, your battery may very well be on the way out. Replace with a Odessey or DEKA...

[KenP]

I put an Odyssey PC680 battery, larger cables and a 4 brush VMax starter which I found on flea bay and have not had a problem since.... link to the starter on ebay below. Ken

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400169818123&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[twigg]

Along the slow starter issues.

I was at a local surplus boating supplies place looking for some water proof switches over the weekend.

I found that they have an assortment of premade 4AWG stranded cables in red and black with the lugs already crimped on.

A 3 foot was $5 and a 1 foot was $2.

I just need to figure out what lengths I need for the 3 cables on the 1st Gen, and what hole sizes, and I will be able to do the upgrade for around $15-$20.

Or if they do not have the right lengths premade, they have the red or black cable for $2/foot and the terms for $1.25 ea. I have read that this goes a long way to helping the hot starting issue.

 

You need 32 inch for the starter and hround, and about 12 inch or less for the battery positive to solenoid ... Which also needs a main harness hot cable from the lug.

 

Go take a look at the "Hot Sarting" thread.

 

I made some about 3 days ago ...

[greg_in_london]

All of the above are good advice, but what you described also sounded like corroded battery terminals - they conduct some elctricity, but not enough to turn the starter, so whatever contact there is is burnt out when the higher current flows. Loosening or tightening the bolts can refresh the conncetion as the terminal moves slightly.

 

Next time you're trying it, just make sure the terminals are clean/not oxidised and tighten securely (not to strip !) and do the same with any other terminals that you can get to. I've resolved a few breakdowns in the past through this very simple solution, although if the battery is dead it obviously can't help.

[motorcycle.jockey]

I finely got back around to working on this.

 

I hooked up 2 batteries directly to the starter. One battery came with the bike and I was told it was new and the other I know is good, it's from my sportster. The starter still turns slow.

 

I also turned over the engine by hand and all felt good, so i think I can rule out engine problems.

 

I guess I get to remove the starter, Oh joy. Any tips on getting the starter out without much fuss?

[twigg]

I finely got back around to working on this.

 

I hooked up 2 batteries directly to the starter. One battery came with the bike and I was told it was new and the other I know is good, it's from my sportster. The starter still turns slow.

 

I also turned over the engine by hand and all felt good, so i think I can rule out engine problems.

 

I guess I get to remove the starter, Oh joy. Any tips on getting the starter out without much fuss?

 

In the middle of doing that now.

 

Exhaust headers are off and the radiator needs loosening to get them out.

 

Looks like the thermostat housing needs to come off to access the top rear bolt and provide room to pull the starter back.