HElp! How do you remove the parted faring with the Yamaha passing lamps in place?

[shikano53]

First of all I apologize to Wally, and Tony for this triple post. Please delete it if it is a duplicate. I am in the process of parting my faring. I have it all dismantled except I can't figure out how to remove or if I have to remove the Passing Lamp mounting bracket that fastens using the two hex bolts. I don't even know what size they are and I don't know how to reach them because of the angle they are at.

 

Is it necessary to remove these in order to drop the passing lamps down enough to remove the front faring piece?

 

I'm stuck at this point and not sure how to proceed.

 

If you have any comments or suggestions I would appreciate it.

 

Thank you

Chris in Red Deer, Alberta.

[exrsa1]

Yes you have to remove it. Then while you have it off, put a spacer block behind, so next time you will not need to. Youc an also replace this hex bolts with something that is easier to remove. I believe it is a 5 or 5.5mm, and the ball end hex wrenches work best.

 

Good luck

Brian

[Hummingbird]

You can do it - I've done it many times and was lucky that I didn't scratch the fairing BUT I finally did get the spacer blocks and install them. It's Sooooo much easier with the blocks in place.

[Hummingbird]

forgot to mention that you have to loosen the lights to take it off and every time I did it, I loosened the bolts too much and had a heck of a time getting them back in - might as well get the spacers, you'll have the front off again anyway.

[shikano53]

Yes you have to remove it. Then while you have it off, put a spacer block behind, so next time you will not need to. Youc an also replace this hex bolts with something that is easier to remove. I believe it is a 5 or 5.5mm, and the ball end hex wrenches work best.

 

Good luck

Brian

Thanks guys! It must be a 5.5mm ball end hex because I have a 5mm and a 6mm and neither of them quite fit.

 

If I recall correctly Freebird has a piece that you can purchase to replace that. I think.

 

I will have to run to CTC and get a 5.5mm ball end hex socket.

 

Chris

[Freebird]

No, it is not me that has the spacer blocks and in fact, I actually don't even recommend them for a couple of reasons. A lot of folks here like them but I am not on that list.

 

I just don't find it that difficult to remove the light bar with the proper tool.

 

I don't like the way the lights look when they are spaced out.

 

I think that it promotes the cracking of the lower deflector brackets as they have a rubber bumper that SHOULD rest on the upper fork covers. If it is not touching the covers, it allows them to vibrate and flex more and break much easier.

[exrsa1]

Freebird, do you still have the orginal hex bolts in there? I thought I read somewhere that you replced them with other bolts.

 

Brian

[Freebird]

Actually that is correct. I did replace them at some point with standard style bolts.

[Hummingbird]

No, it is not me that has the spacer blocks and in fact, I actually don't even recommend them for a couple of reasons. A lot of folks here like them but I am not on that list.

 

I just don't find it that difficult to remove the light bar with the proper tool.

 

I don't like the way the lights look when they are spaced out.

 

I think that it promotes the cracking of the lower deflector brackets as they have a rubber bumper that SHOULD rest on the upper fork covers. If it is not touching the covers, it allows them to vibrate and flex more and break much easier.

 

I'm comfortable with the light spacing (appearance) but didn't know or think about a cracking problem

[straycatt]

Count me among the NO spacer fans. After you do it the first time, it's easy to pull the light bar. I just tap a long ball end Allen wrench into the bolt head and turn it with a pair of Channel Locks.

The Allen wrench rubs on the bottom of the fairing, but even if it scratches the paint you'll never see it.

[Sylvester]

Count me among the NO spacer fans. After you do it the first time, it's easy to pull the light bar. I just tap a long ball end Allen wrench into the bolt head and turn it with a pair of Channel Locks.

The Allen wrench rubs on the bottom of the fairing, but even if it scratches the paint you'll never see it.

 

I am with you on this one. Also put a towel over the fender and let the light bar straddle it.

 

[Aimhigh]

I am with you on this one. Also put a towel over the fender and let the light bar straddle it.

 

.

definitely!!!!

[shikano53]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the comments. What size allen wrench? I just got back from criss crossing the city in an attempt to find a 5.5mm hex ball end allan key but dang if it doesn't fit either.

 

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

All I want to do is clean off the radio control connector because my audio unit is doing exactly what Wally's is doing in his post.

Talk about frustrating. Is it 5 o'clock yet???? I need some tequila..

[Sylvester]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the comments. What size allen wrench? I just got back from criss crossing the city in an attempt to find a 5.5mm hex ball end allan key but dang if it doesn't fit either.

 

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

All I want to do is clean off the radio control connector because my audio unit is doing exactly what Wally's is doing in his post.

Talk about frustrating. Is it 5 o'clock yet???? I need some tequila..

 

On my 02 RSMV it is a 6 mm. I have worked on other RSV that were 5 mm. I have no more to offer.

 

[fwbpastor]

I got this set and they work great.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-t-handle-ball-point-and-hex-key-wrench-set-96645.html

[bongobobny]

Yes, my Bro-In-Law has that set and I used it last month and decided to buy myself a set as well. They are ball end AND have that handy shortie coming out the side of the handle. If you are an inside track member they are $9.99 this month...

[straycatt]

My 2000 is a 6mm, and because it's at an angle it almost "snaps" in. That's why I tap it a time or two, to make sure it's seated well. Definitely don't want to round those puppies off.

[shikano53]

My 2000 is a 6mm, and because it's at an angle it almost "snaps" in. That's why I tap it a time or two, to make sure it's seated well. Definitely don't want to round those puppies off.

 

Thank you! I'm gonna try the 5.5 but I don't think it fits. The dealer installed them just in December of 2010 an the left one is rounded so I think they stripped it putting it in.

 

Chris

[Sideoftheroad]

It's a 6mm on the 2nd gen. Just split the fairing last night to install my Buddy Rich Cable. Haven't heard about the breaking problem but consensus has been just doesn't look right with it spaced out and like others said, it isn't that hard to do as is. I also use a blanket to cover the fender.

[BuddyRich]

I got this set and they work great.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-t-handle-ball-point-and-hex-key-wrench-set-96645.html

 

Yep, I always use a Ball End Allen wrench on those because of the angle

[shikano53]

It's a 6mm on the 2nd gen. Just split the fairing last night to install my Buddy Rich Cable. Haven't heard about the breaking problem but consensus has been just doesn't look right with it spaced out and like others said, it isn't that hard to do as is. I also use a blanket to cover the fender.

 

Thanks all! The 5mm allan wrench worked fine. I'm going to try and replace those hex bolts with a regular bolt if I can find one.

 

Chris

[LilBeaver]

Thanks all! The 5mm allan wrench worked fine. I'm going to try and replace those hex bolts with a regular bolt if I can find one.

 

Chris

 

Metric hardware is not carried 'everywhere' and you may have a limited selection but I have had good luck at various Home Depot, Lowes and Ace Hardware stores. Just take an old bolt in with you and use the little 'sizing card/sample' thing-a-ma-jig and you'll be set.

 

You could always get extra long bolts and a few of those chrome 'tube' spacer thingies if you wanted your lamps further away from your fairing. I have one of the 'ugly' spacer blocks in mine MOSTLY because the way mine were positioned one was resting up against the fairing and the other was within 1/4" or so. I don't really know why it is like that but that is how it was.

 

Don't forget your dielectric grease while you are picking up your bolts!

[BradT]

My 99 was 5mm and the 08 is 5mm but I stripped the head and had to drill one out.

 

Funny thing is that the 08 had round head (or button head) bolts but the 99 had normal hex head style.

 

Brad

[Freebird]

I'll bet somebody had changed them on the '99. Mine had the round head from the factory but I changed them to regular bolts long ago.

[V7Goose]

You should have absolutely no problem finding that bolt size at Ace; it is quite common. I'd suggest you stick with the Allen head bolts, as you will find that getting a socket or even flat a flat wrench up in there isn't particularly easy either! As long as you have the ball-end wrenches, the Allen head bolts are fine. And replacement bolt heads will problably use 6mm wrench, so they have less chance of stripping.

 

As for spacers - I just silicone 5 flat washers together and buy slightly longer than stock bolts. This moves the lights out about 1/2", just far enough from the fairing to allow adjustment and keep them from rubbing, but does not spoil the looks by sticking them out in front of the headlight. Silicone, hot glue, contact cement, or just about anything else will work fine for the washers - it does not have to be pretty - just hold them together in a stack until you can get the bolt in.

Goose